Video

@@johnkarcher2321 well I have no idea how much air may have been leaking through the unsealed lid, this was not a scientific test. But I’m pretty sure with the gasket there’s no air leaking through there at all and it was cheap easy and quick to do so why not?

@@martybgood62 I think 5 gallon. I suspect most of the shop vacs use the same bearing carrier and the same size bearing for the sake of economy, even if some of the motors have different horsepower ratings. It’s not that difficult to disassemble the thing and find out.

@@dsemolian3071 Yes I noticed about the separate compartments after the fact and am foaming each. Good catch.

@@NSteinseifer81 You can shunt the connector. A short piece of stranded wire bent in to a u shape. If you buy Quickplug ematch or FireWire premade from MJG, or from Cobra, they come shunted. If you install connectors like I did, you can shunt them yourself.

As I said, the demo bulb in this video was the old burned out one. I installed the new one with gloves.

@@Bandwidth2024 The bulb I was handling was the old blown one. I don’t touch the glass of new bulbs.

Video?

@@mguerramd no video, I am waiting on my fins and 29mount.

@@bodybuilderbrett Where are you sourcing those?

Launch Lab Rocketry​@@mguerramd

@@Mikeb-tx4cd Excellent!

And you were correct……easy peasy.

Cut the push nut off and replace with a new one. Hacksaw, angle grinder, dremel, something…

@@mguerramdthat’s what I ended up doing.

Whatever grit it was, I don’t know. But in this non critical application it worked! Last time I used it was on a Triumph Bonneville.

The whole point of this modification is to avoid that since those connections are so hard to get at. I have substituted the big speaker terminals for the tiny little spring terminals under the DB 25 port.

I may have misunderstood your question. The wires from the speaker terminals are plugged in to the tiny terminals under the DB 25, and I used a small screwdriver to pop them open to get the wires in. Which is exactly what I don’t want to have to do in the field with ematches. I have since altered this module to Quickplugs so none of this is necessary any more.

Yes it is. That little cylinder on the bottom of the lower piston conducts water from the nipple on the drainage valve in to the brewing chamber.

Until it ran clear and then just a touch longer

Yes it does. My desire was to drain it from the top using a pump, as I stated in my first sentence. I don’t want to jack it up, yank all the baffles, and do it that way. Because my plan is to drain and fill several times to get all the old fluid out, across several weeks. Much easier done from topside, if doable. The other way to do it all at once is to pull the lines from the transmission fluid cooler, but that requires a load of work to pull half the front of the car off!

Yes, it’s bad bearings. A new motor is extremely expensive, bearings are not! The bearing swap is easy on the main pool pumps and booster pumps alike.

This isn’t single use shooting wire that’s disposed of. It’s reusable extension wire so I don’t have to scab in the field. It’s a huge time saver. If you try to reuse solid wire( I have) you can’t roll it up. You have to fold it and it can fracture. We set up mortars on a trailer but want the cakes well out in front toward the audience. Generally we will have one or several cakes per module and I cannot script this show so can’t dedicate modules to positions. It’s a single station and I don’t see the product till the morning of. We just set the whole thing up to fire in sequence starting with channel one cue one til the end. So every time I stick a cake in the sequence I want to move it well away from the trailer. For other shows with multiple positions and time to script, we don’t need too many extension wires. Sometimes we will fire center, left and right on one cue using the extension wires for the outboard positions. We use breakout boards from Cobra or Muux to do this. This wire passes current fine never had a misfire.

@@mguerramd Right. The latter of the two scenarios you mentioned is my situation, I'm building my own extensions as well but before I do, just wondered if you had any ill effects of using stranded over the solid. You have answered my question. Thank you.

This is a die or chaser for male GHT, garden hose threads. The specification is 5/8-11.5 TPI. That is a connector size of 5/8” which fits garden hose sizes of 1/2”, 5/8” and 3/4”. It is 11.5 threads per inch, straight not tapered threads. Regular pipe connectors are NPT, national pipe taper, not GHT.

czcams.com/video/Wt_Kar1YEc8/video.htmlsi=nE7d7z8QC7DbymZf

Also be sure the bushings are in place on the gearbox pins. Absent the bushings the piston can go up just a bit too high and pop out.

@@mguerramd Thanks. I took apart and reassembled the brew group again, and I took apart the bottom piston cup entirely, and this time I really pushed that piston down as far as it could go. Further than my prior attempts. Then when I started up the coffee machine, it went through its startup procedure, cycling the brew group several times, and this time it was very smooth - everything went exactly where it was supposed to go! 😃 Unfortunately after cycling through the startup procedure, it stopped in the top position and hummed for a few seconds, and then all of the lights on the display flashed 5 times and the power turned off. I repeated this a few times with the same result. Any suggestions?

@@bobfriedel2372 Oh boy I don’t know about that one.

@@mguerramd Thank you so much for sharing your expertise for us frustrated tinkerers! You are doing a great service.

Yes that is a problem. When you assemble the lower piston in to the gearbox, you have to push it ALL the way down so it is at the very bottom of its travel. The only way you know if you did it right is to assemble the brew group and try to cycle it. If it is popping out, you have to disassemble, (pop out the circlips, pull out the pivot pin) reposition the lower piston, reassemble, and try again! If you can't cycle it all the way around several times by hand, keep redoing it until you can. It can be a nuisance but you will get it.

@@mguerramd I have tried and tried and still piston gets is up just enough that it does not allow mechanism to move to correct position. It is fully down, all the way to the bar. I just ordered a new O ring hoping that will help

@@user-bg7ok7ps7g It’s not the o ring. Once I had a lower piston start to come apart. It is a two piece structure. The geared peg is glued to the bottom of the piston. As they start to separate, the piston itself can loosen and start to move”up” on the peg. It will never cycle properly. It’s not necessarily evident until the two pieces fully come apart, then it’s obvious. Pull the lower piston out and grab the geared peg in one hand and the piston in the other. See if they are tightly connected in to one solid structure. There should be ZERO play between the two components, they may be so loose the two parts come apart! Standby for a link to a video.

@@user-bg7ok7ps7g Here’s the video: czcams.com/video/T3L-jjRRuCs/video.htmlsi=D621o-CClNPWrP0N

@@user-bg7ok7ps7g And another video of the piston repair: czcams.com/video/bibafXFqaUw/video.htmlsi=YCG9WJq0Dg5XzVEq

No it’s not polarized.

Be sure to watch it two or three more times, but take a Dramamine.

@@mguerramd Better yet, wait till you can afford a video head to make a watchable CZcams video and skip the Dramamine. Nice try though.

@@chiwawa130 I just shot it with phone in my hand, usually when I shoot a video, I put my camera or phone on a tripod. And actually, I originally meant this to go to only one person my sister, but then I decided to put it public on CZcams. It was meant as a really quick explanation to her about tripods because the one she has is probably well over 50 years old.

@@chiwawa130 PS I guess you didn't notice the Wimberley gimbal head. It makes a superb video head! And I'm ditching my ball heads for the Acratech LLH with a leveling base...

Glad it helped

@@mguerramd you have no idea how much I needed a solution that day lol thank you again