Video

Sign Warehouse prismjet 64 or also know as a Mutoh 1324x

You can, I typically make the base in one piece so you don't have to. If your doing boat numbers , yes they need masked.

Sorry, sold that cutter a year ago.

@TheSignGuy wow thanks for the quick reply! No worries. I'm just curious, what about other plotters? Should that motor move freely or have a magnetic cog type clicking to it? Trying to figure out if the motor is bad

Well that sucks, I have no idea who else sells it. I always bought it from the manufacture.

the snap in my opinion leaves a cleaner edge. The pressure from the knife blade tends to curl or flair the edges.

Not everyone can stand the smell of wood fires or pellet stoves. Moving the big bags, cleaning the stove, making sure it doesent run out etc. is a not for me. So electric, NG or propane for me, but to each their own!

@@TheSignGuy Pellet stoves don't smell. Pellet smokers, well that's what you want. My cost for pellets for the winter is less than one months use of gas. It's a no brainer.

Very true and great idea!

glad it helped

It's a font, I used Hancock

No, I'm officially retired from sign making. Still have the etsy shop but don't sell there anymore.

@@TheSignGuy Got it. Thank you

No, never used a mimaki plotter.

@@TheSignGuyI have used one daily for about 8 years and I love it. I also have a USCutter plotter but it’s by far inferior to the Mimaki which for the price difference is expected.

Generally prime the edges until you can't see the layers of the wood, about 2 coats. One Shot takes 1 good coat for most colors, I found certain colors like 2 coats like Medium Green and Dark Green.

The old world?? Of course I'm still painting signs...

Gee, I'm not sure...

I unrolled the media and laid the whole 60" on the table, measured to find center and then cut it with a razor.

Thank you!

Thank you!

Thank You!! Lighter colors the better! Keep it waxed up, Lucas Slick Mist is what I used to clean and make em' shine!. Water marks will also depend on what minerals are in the water.

Depending on the ink saturation you are putting down, as little as 1 hour and up to overnight. The more ink you put down the longer you should wait to laminate, 98% of the time I used 3 different printer profiles. 1 profile was for very quick printing and putting the least amount of ink while still looking good. Prints from that profile sometimes never got laminated depending on what it was for.

@@TheSignGuy thanks for the reply.. Heard some people saying you have to wait between 24-48 hours before laminating so that had me a bit worried

@kingk5994 the more ink you put down the longer you should wait. But you don't have to, if the ink isn't done outgassing the the media and laminate will do strange things....

Understood. How likely are you to recommend signwarehouse’s Prismjet 54 Gen2?

@kingk5994 highly recommend

I tried to do that but could never get it to work. The laser pointer would come on and I would go through all 4 points, when I hit okay the cutting head would not put any pressure on the vinyl. It would follow the contour cut but "hover" and the blade would not extend to cut the vinyl. And Yes, for me I also had to move the blade forward to match the contour as well.

Good choice!

Substance media is all I used.

I am retired from the sign industry.

Generally the thinner the better for vinyl. Calendared vinyl (Oracal 651, Avery A6 etc) is about 3 mils thick and will last about 4-5 years outdoors. Thinner Cast vinyl is 2mil thick (Oracal 751/951, Avery A9 etc) and will last longer, is easier to remove, has a higher gloss level and is better for outside use with less color fade. It also conforms better over rivets and such, it does conform better to irregular shapes.

100% absolutely it will help with the life of the prints. Heavier ink saturation will also help with the life of the prints.

Might be easier to just delete the video. You're Welcome.

I'm sure it would but I never tried it to confirm it will.

Sorry but I'm retired from doing signs.

Thanks, sent it out to the plotter doctor and they sent me a new board. Not sure if it was a really expensive fuse or not, but the EDGE works now.

I was never a fan of the Clear App Tape. I preferred the paper tape and you just have to work fast. I went from the R-Tape to Grimco's Briteline series for app tape, same stuff just a bit less expensive.

Got a 10watt diode but it NEVER would have cut through that 1/2" MDO.

Agreed. Pretty much what I did but I did it all under 1 roof.

It does but most can't figure out how to use more than 1 process or pieces of equipment to create a single product.

I use 3mm (1/8" ) ACM most of the tie and in that video. Over the span of 8ft I would use 3 braces in the center (2,4,6ft) and all 4 sides. The 3mm is pretty flimsy, ACM will bend so the more support you can give it the better.

Thanks for subscribing! Let me see if I can do 1 or 2 more videos before I say so long to sign making. I'm heading in a different direction but still have all my "stuff".

@@TheSignGuy Thank you. My family and I wish you every success in all your artistic endeavors and in everything you do. Thank you again for sharing your knowledge and experience with all of us your viewers.

I sold the plotter and it's been a while but I think it was in the mid eighties.

I HAD a MUTOH 1324x 54" Eco-Sol. I'm currently retired from the sign industry and went another direction after 30 years in the business. Thanks for watching, best of luck to you!

Glad to hear that!

I agree, there are highs and lows. But overall a great and rewarding trade to get into. Thanks for the comment and keep truckin' on!

Not really, I'm horrible at free hand drawing. I used to be able to sketch abstract art pretty good, now I do it all on the computer. To be 100% honest I was never good at drawing, I could see what I wanted in my head but could never get my hand to follow my head. LOL

Good Luck!

Take pictures with your phone, that's what I had to do as well.

No problem, here is the name of the facebook group: Gerber Edge Thermal Printer, buy, sell talk

Yes, it was an air brush

I now have a CNC and a laser, each has their strong points. But the CNC seems more capable with a wider range of media/material to cut or etch.