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It's very annoying all the problems with parcels in the post...even I stopped ordering in the UK......but we all know the reason for that. It wasn't a good choice, I think.I´m sorry for that. Cheers

I thought exactly the same about the paint - why on earth they didn't put the actual paint colours on the front, it makes it look like you won't have the right colours. Admittedly it does say in the details, but most people won't read those. Given the potential popularity of this kit over time, it would be worth someone doing a beginners' kit building video, with various tips on basic modelling. I'm thinking of all those people who are going to the seaside and stuck in their caravan in the rain! Great tie-up though, Airfix, RNLI and classic hobbying. Just the right price to buy one for little Timmy, or perhaps a present to take home for granddad.

When was the last time you tried brush painting the acrylics? The recommend "two thin coats" seems to work well enough looking at their "how to build ..." videos

Thanks for the video Phil, been looking into the Atom series of paints and trying to find out what sort of thinner to use with them. Not sure if I am ready for the leap to spraying lacquer paints and they look to go down super smooth.

The Severn class is the largest boat (the Airfix kit is still available), the Trent or the Tamar class is next (not sure which) and then the Shannon I believe. The Atlantic is one of the inshore boats.

Just little Thank You after using advice as jumping off point I am still happily using 3 Gen paints 😊

Question - would you prime it all in white before you started?

Good teacher!

Wonder what to the old team is up to nowadays... Sid, Steve, Adam.

Not LitAki but LitakI, on the last thong (Airplanes in Ukrainian, Serbian and Polish).

Litaki not Latiki…Nj is combat capable not just trainer.

Using Flory Model washes for a few years, it’s my go to for weathering quick and easy!

I ordered a couple of bottles from your shop a few weeks ago! Thanks from Ireland

I love how you respond to someone saying you are doing something wrong by saying that you do it your way and that works for you and then go on to rant about people who strip down their airbrush after use! I strip down my airbrush after use to clean it properly. My whole clean up after spraying only takes me about 10 minutes including the AB strip and just spraying thinners through it does not clean it out properly ( obvious from the amount of paint I get out from the strip down ). I've never damaged a brush doing this or caused excess wear or had any issues with them caused by a dirty part and I've been doing this since I started airbrushing 35 years ago, so it has nothing to do with influencers. I get if you are a professional and are using it several times a day and why you wouldn't want to do it, but like you say, do it your way and whatever way works for you.

Love the dark dirt for doing aircraft so much easier and more flexible than using other washes. Will soon be using the rust, sand and dust washes on a Merkava 3 tank kit. Phil - will you be doing any tutorials on how best to use the sand and rust colours in a more targeted way on a kit?

Can we buy this in the US? If so, where?

Cheers Phil, very helpful video, cheers Liam

Brilliant; learnt things I really didn’t know; but now make sense! Thanks Phil

I will be doing a step by step build on the airfix gannet shortly, so will grab some of this and give it a go as I've never used it before 👍

Hi Phil can you delete the thick one so it has the same consistency as the thin one.

Very nice demo thanks Phil

I have had no luck getting this stuff for over a year here in US.

I applaud the patience you've demonstrated building the Halifax.

Did very much like the free build part 6, thanks!

Dammit... You keep saying Puma, and my heart leaps... But no, it's not the fantastic unsung hero of Support Helicopters, just another Sand coloured German Van with a gun on top.

Should've called that hoover mega maid

15:30 drill bit, will it fit in the electric driller??

..отлично..

Phil, as usual you go all out when you build a kit even if it’s not that wonderful. I think you do amazing work. That’s one of the reasons why I like modeling and watching your shows thank you.

I've made enough rubbish kits over the years not to be bothering with junk like that Halifax. Life's too short.

Amazing progress on that Lump of a kit. I'd be in way over my head with that one fer sure. I have enough challenges with a shake & bake...Lol Congrats she is definitely "looking the part" Thanks & Cheers!!

Just got this kit ordered and very excited, when I was growing up my dad was stationed at Willow Grove and I saw the Diamond Backs A-4's in low vis paint. I plan on doing this one in high vis and my Hasegawa kit in low vis.

David R Lentz, Columbus, Ohio, USA (Friday, 5 July, 2024) Before I start here, how might I begin at the beginning: Part One, please? I looked through your videos and playlists, to no avail. Also, I need to do so through CZcams, please. I better can interact with the world that way.

..ютюб канал № 1 об моделировании!..

I admire your patience and determination, but you've shown me that this kit is one to avoid. Can't wait to see the end result.

Excellent....lovely to see this coming along.

I bet as soon as you finish it, someone will release a new kit lol. Question..... how will you do the glazing below the cockpit? or is it already glazed? It looks tricky, I can't quite tell.

WAIT A MINUTE! Did you say an FM kit has awful fit?! No! Say it isn't so.

Phil I think this Video is not ment to be on youtube free to watch?

Looks fantastic. Will definitely go nicely with my Australian gear. Only thing missing in 72nd is, of course, that C-17. Now, that would be a beauty with it, plus a Bush Master or 2.

@ 6:17 they are not grab handles, they are some bit of “Fairy” kit that only the Avionics techies can understand what they do/did, and just for info you are quite correct that in tech speak the Chinook doesn’t have a collective lever, and it doesn’t have a power lever, it does however have a thrust lever, the cyclic lever is just that and the rudder bar is called a set of yaw pedals, as I said it’s just for info, and we, the techies, still called it a collective lever. When I build my kit I will be doing it in the Falkland Islands 🇫🇰 war livery, I think that is the best way to honour BN, and all those service personnel/merchant marine and civilians who were injured or killed during the war, and you can do her even more justice by leaving the co-pilots door off, which in helicopters is usually the port (left) side looking forward from the cockpit, it either fell off or was broken and removed (my memory is not what it was), and it was only replaced after the Argentinian surrender when a replacement was quietly “Robbed” from an Argentinian Chinook that was captured. The “Toe ramps” that I think you called “fingers” didn’t have any detail on the, unlike the main cabin floor and the ramp itself the toe ramps only had a non-slip coating, a coating that was NOT non-slip most of the time.

You know how they say, Phil... the light at the end of the tunnel is usually a train. Just joking, amazing job on such a challenging kit. Well done!

Missed Saturday with chores but working along with the show on Sunday instead. Like Matt re mustering my MoJo. Thanks for always being here for sometimes much needed inspiration and encouragement. Cheers!!

Blimey it’s comrade Buller! I need some advice on a SU-24 I’m about to build 👍

Listening to the boys while painting 80 pairs of boots on 1/100 scale panzergrenadiers. I think my eyeballs are going to fall out

Phil does it again :)😊

Ive built a lot of very nice kits that turned out amazing but I do applaud your skills and patience with this one.

I would download the meng instructions for the colors

Great no nonsense no waffle review as always, hope you will be reviewing the Zvezda 1/48 KA-52