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1:12:12 - I was in St. Petersburg, Florida for a week traveling from the my hotel at the beach to a venue downtown and back via Central Avenue. I had to stop at _every_ light both east- and westbound. It wasn’t until near the end of the week’s stay that I discovered I could travel 1st Ave N one way, then 1st Ave S the other without getting stopped by a single traffic light if I never exceeded the speed limit! Perfect speed control, I’d say!

1660 super repair guide plz

That is portabel soldaring iron...for smd is not bad....is a bargain...

Is a retro TETA NUS.....DELL BOARD.....🤣🤣🤣🤔🤔

Hi Richard, I have previously used solder wick on one side to slight lift the legs, and then slipped a sharp blade to slice the glue. Thinners or even petrol is also an option if you let it soak for a while. If you have a thin blade, prelifting may not be necessary, depending on the ICs stand-off from the board ?

Will there be a pt3 for this 👍

Hello Sir ! Please make a video on solar inverters explaining how they work and the common faults in them.

Greetings: Why no graphics card as part of the test?

Thank you for your mature and honest opinion. I think the word "mature" is missing from the Kerry's very immature "I wouldn't touch it with a ..." evaluation and opinion.

i associate asus boards in particular with failure to post if they dont have a good cmos battery although its by no means unique to asus boards

Try updating the BIOS ... See where it goes from there ... Ciao ! Tinkerer forever from the Philippines . God bless !

if that code means ram I would go along the ram stick when inserted/running using a logic probe and check the address and data pins (using a dimm slot pinout as reference). One pin may be dead or floating which will confirm at least that the problem comes from the northbridge, in that case a reflow may fix it.

23:37 "The Dot of Death". Born in the "Flash of Failure". Great video and thanks for posting it.

Heya, well differant processor maybe see if the nort brights has power

Thanks for the lesson

Thanks for another great video, and I very much appreciated this "hands on" format as a complement to your more purely theoretical ones. Brgds

I've had old boards not do anything UNTIL I put in a new battery and like magic they've worked! I've also had working computers not started for 15 years just up and blow the power supplies, blew a chip off one Acer, took apart the twin to see the chip number, got that and plugged it in without anything plugged into it and it blew a couple of resistors with the magic smoke released furiously, massive flash, couldn't believe it! Not something I'd expected.. ☹

Thanks for your importent guidence. Please enlighten me elaborately how to find fault of a power supply with oscilloscope . Is isolation transformer required for fault finding job? I am from INDIA, 63 years old.

That second one seems a goner. Could flash the BIOS.

Bios reflash

On right side above the first dimm-slot there seems something odd on a smd component. Hard to see on the video, might bee some goo. Also try reseating the eprom. C1's also can mean bad eprom.

Thanks for The Video . Just out of curiosity have you actually ever sold any of these retro pieces .

Red green would approve!

Thank you from Laval in Montreal Quebec

Can you attempt to open up/fix the 101 module?

Hi have you tried this with insects and other small critters?

Great comparison, much appreciated. Although in the review you say that the P2Pro has autofocus, whilst I believe this is not the case. It has a fixed focus (and hence why you need the macro lens up close). As for holding the camera, maybe one of those cheap microscope stands would be useful! From what I read, these two have different sensors indeed. The T2S+ has a sensor which is a generation older compared to the P2.

Ho does the model ET13S Pro compares to ET13S?

Thanks a lot for correct explained ❤ Sometimes I have problem with the British accent! What I missed is directly connected diac and thyristor to Gate! Variable supply of diac to Gate! But thanks 😊 U give me Manny answer's and open a lot of questions!

I’m an Environmental Engineer who did electronics projects and repair as a hobby. After graduating I was struggling to find the right job. Videos like yours helped me a lot to learn electronics repair. Now I work as a Service Technician for environmental instruments and get paid like an engineer :) Cheers!

Surprised to see you place your multimeter on the heatsink there Richard whilst the amp was powered up especially since the heatsinks can often times have high voltages on them. Makes me appreciate the lengths you go to to provide a good repair lesson. Please be careful though.

Does the pc power when you plug the charger without inserting the battery

I'm beginner, thank you.👍

I agree to play it safe too.

Dont risk it. Who knows whats going on inside those black boxes.

tHEM xTALS WERE MANUFRACTED IN oKLAHOMA cIYTY, oKLOHAMA. i OWNED PROBLY 50-60 ON THEM bIG hEAVY wALKY tALKETS.

Solder ratio of 37% Pb/ 63% Sn is the eutectic alloy and therefore optimal, in my humble opinion. It melts and freezes at a single temperature, which is ideal for 'iron' work since it tends to 'wet out' and flow easily leaving a smooth, shiny surface when it freezes. If you can get it easily, it is by far the best option. Incidentally, it also explains why the melting temperature of lead-free crap is lowered when this is added to existing joints. That's my two-penneth, for what it's worth! 😁

At least this has a better schematic then the crap harmon kardon sub shit thing !!!

Thank you Mr. Richard for your continuous informative posts!

Cant hurt to gather more info before plugging anything in.

*Guys, I have info from the supplier who sells these modules. The Power Module 101 is the same for both amplifiers. The Amplifier Modules 101A and 101B are for the left and right channels respectively. I checked on the 3K6 and one module has the marking partly obscured by paint but I do have a 101A and a 101B. So I can use these to test and hopefully repair the 2K2 amplifier. As both the other amplifier modules are just marked 101 I think I will order a pair 101A/101B for that one. Just to be sure. The only thing i can think is different with the two modules is when you run the amplifier in bridge mode one must invert the audio signal, but it doesn't do that in stereo mode*

There's a listing on ebay which suggests that the 101A is for channel A and the 101B is for channel B, implying, perhaps, that there is a difference (throws entire salt cellar over shoulder).

If I had to guess I would think the 101B is a revision that corrected the 101A overheating in all that. potting compound - I bet electronically they are the same, however I'm not being paid to fix it so I completely understand your caution!

Isn't the module on the main PSU board the 101A? If so does the schematic show the devices to be the same pinout?

I wouldn't risk it either too much unknown

On that ST chip that didn't have the dot marking pin 1 - pin 1 is actually marked with a slope on one side of the chip. If you look from the side you will see that the plastic isn't symmetrical

Maybe the tester doesn't work on 393s because they have an open drain output, so they need a pull up resistor to function properly

Should some copper be exposed on each mounting hole so the screws bond each panel to the metalwork of the box?

The distressed box/module, is on the wrong “foot”ing.

I always find the “2 soldering iron” technique useful when removing small components as using hot air causes stress on other components and sometimes like you did delaminate the board, not good if it’s multilayer, a good CZcams channel is mrsolderfix his techniques are great for SMD components