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Argh now see you used the 'pro' word... I am very far from that, just testing my own personal needs ;) The PVA idea came from woodturner friends who use it to seal endgrain and help slow the drying process. I've not used shellac but have heard many good things. It makes me wonder why it has fallen out of favour in modern making.... Im guessing the cost? That would be a good comparison video, I'll keep it in mind as a follow up if I find the time.

A sheet of 18mm Marine plywood is about AUD$150 at the moment... it has come down a little recently. Regular 18mm construction pine plywood is about $100 and premium European Birch ply about $180.

Cheers Simon, each has its place when you want to upgrade from a straight stick 😊

Cheers Ben, glad it helped. 👍

Pays for itself after one job. If it doesn't work and you still need a plumber, you haven't spent much and it'll still come in useful down the track 😊

Ha! Cheers Lauren, possibly the first time this old video has been that helpful 😊

You had me worried there for a moment! I can still see it on Amazon ( amzn.to/3kpUFT7 ) and on the Kreg website. Just out of stock at your retailer?

Always start with a piece of scrap wood. Morever you do not have extra pieces?

That depends on what I am making. As I use mostly scrap and scavanged wood, I often don't have extra material exactly the same to test on, but I can usually find something close!

I thought you must have some professional experience :) I am very much a self taught hobbyiest. No significant injuries in the shop yet... touch wood ;)

I have a sort-of-vice, but not a proper woodworking one as I don't do a lot of hand tool work usually. When I have a bigger shop with a heavy bench I'll get one then :)

I often don't use it for the router as I find it defeats the point of having a cordless one. I should use it more, but I am happy in my mask :)

I've got 2 Bunnings very near me here! They are everywhere in Sydney. Aussies love a bit of DIY and Gardening :)

G'day Stanley, thanks for all the comments today!

Oh I have one... I have a video on making the vacuum cyclone cart... I just don't always use it 😅

Exactly. For the job it is designed to do, and the market/pricepoint it is designed for. It's a good tool. If you're making fine furniture, there are better options.

it's a British thing I picked up from some lads I watch... Can't drop it now 😅

But then I gotta take it out of the plane 😅 ...and make sure it's sharp. Yes, I've seen this done, good reference surface too especially on thicker veneer. If you're doing a lot of panels my friend The Wood Knight sets up a jig on the router table to zip through them

Now the battery tech is catching up and getting cheaper (and most lawns are getting smaller) it's a no brainer. So much easier.

Yes he hadn't quite figured NOT to use the drive going downhill 😅 He'd enjoyed it and it was something new so good fun :)

@@FixitFingers I actually prefer a lighter mower that isn't self propelled, but both are valid options.

No, that I can do ;) In fact bubba and I are now going every week! Just never owned a lawn before... and technically don't now :P

Enjoy the time while you can, learning to swim, ride a bike and catching their first fish, soak it all up my friend 🤘🏼

Ha! That was a cheap Bunnings bench, it really needs a restoration desperately with some decent wood. I like mulch mowing, need to read up a bit. I don't think I mow often enough for it in the growing season but we'll see!

Oh the ride-ons look awesome. Not sure the battery ones are quite up to replacing petrol yet (not looked into it but if you need a ride-on, I'm guessing you got a fair chunk of grass). If we head country I guess I'll find out!

@@FixitFingers not far from you mate and no we need one bigger. we are talking zero turns 😁 have a patch of 16 acres ready to mow for you. We maybe build something together too 😊

@@coolabahwoodworking I look forward to it 😊

But can you hear just how much greener the grass is over here?! 😅

@@FixitFingers Well, you have the old saying "The grass is always greener on the other side!" 😂

It was sooooo good at the end of spring, then the irrigation system died and I couldn't get enough water on it over summer and we suffered some major die back. A wet autumn and some Lawn Hub gear has helped a bit, but imma gonna have my work cut out in spring restoring it back to that condition!

Cheers mate! Yes I've heard the Ryobi is perfectly fine for most people's smaller lawns these days. Light, cheap, and can handle the little patches with ease. I've only used my dad's old Victa petrol mower. It's heavy, fussy, hard to start and 2 stroke so is loud and stinky. Ego are apparently about to release "the world's most powerful mower". Big claim... will be interesting to see it.

@@FixitFingers I looked at the Ryobi USA webpage yesterday and saw that the offer a 80v selfpropelled lawnmower with a 76cm cuttingwidth. Thats pretty impressive.

Teaching the Dane new euphamisms is always worth it 😉

Still got one more spray left in the bottle you gave me 😊 It just got a spray to tide it over to spring when I can do a Reno on it. Cheers again for suggesting the Hub!

Jack still talks about that mower and visiting you, mate. He will be rather excited to see this video.

@@jackchapo2011 welcome anytime 😊

I think the line trimm.. whippa snipp... edger... weed whacke... whatever you call it has more names than any other piece of gardening kit 😅

Ongoing job :) Now the irrigation is fixed I can't wait until the next growing season to try to bring it back strong.

Hahaha they actually tried! The lads kindly explained to their lawyers they did not in fact control the copyright in the fertiliser/manufacturer category so they could bugger off ;) Check out their product line... you'll have a giggle. Fully serious lawn professionals, super knowledgable, just with an actual sense of humour...

@@FixitFingers I like their fertiliser

@@thefakemaker Trojan is good stuff

He started to get the hang of it eventually. Not bad for a 60yo fella who had literally never touched a mower before (let alone a self-driving one!).

Is that for dad's mowing lessons? 😅

You are always most welcome mate. Hope you got that bird on the ground first :P

No problems 😊

Exactly. Even the most expensive tools will give poor results without care and practice. Best of luck with the research.

Can't say I've tried it, but most likely it will. Kreg should have a list on their website, but I'd be very surprised if that very popular saw didn't work.

@@FixitFingers - Thank you. I went to the Kreg website and I found this question and answer: Q: Will this work with the ryobi 5 1/2 in saw? If yes will it be able to cut through 3/4 in plywood? A: No, you will need at least a 6.5" blade Saw to work with the Rip-Cut.

@@gilbertramirez4294 Oh cool! Good to know for the future if anyone asks :)

On this guy, honestly I've never had the issue as this model has dry-fire protect. If you run out of brads or load them incorrectly it simply wont go off. It has also never jammed but I believe the head can be removed to clear it :)

Yep so the break system is only live while the blade is moving. So you can use metal measuring tool to setup no worries as it doesn't kick in until you pull the big go button. However, it stays live after you turn it off for a few seconds during wind down so you need to let it come to a complete stop (there are lights next to the switch to tell you if the brake system is live). I've not hit any metal yet, but yes, you _should_ be able to go through staples and small nails as if they are completely surrounded by wood, they won't ground and don't have enough mass to trigger the current switch. If you are cutting metal or you are very suspicious of the wood you are cutting, you can temporarily override the brake so it wont fire off. Same with wet wood, before you cut, you can hold the wood up against the stationary blade. If the brake light starts flashing, it is wet enough to conduct and you need to let it dry or put it in override mode :) Hope that helps.

@@FixitFingers Oh that is cool.. I thought I saw someone do that somewhere.. maybe you did.. cant remember. But I did see some various lights. I thought maybe you had to bypass then cut and notice if the lights were going off. But very cool you can do it while blade is stopped and it will tell you. I assume then while stopped.. if you touch it with metal or your fingers it will show the light that indicates it would trip if it were spinning

@@b3owu1f exactly! I should have filmed that. Yes, if you touch the blade while stationary the lights go bonkers and start flashing super fast. It also wont start I believe if the lights are already flashing

Hahahahaha not as bad as now I have put googly eyes on all my tools... and they have adopted personalities. Now I feel bad every time I drop or bash them 🤣🤣

Sure is! images.app.goo.gl/1AMWurQErAW47nE16 ... sorta 😉Our big box store is called Bunnings, but their logo is a giant red hammer so the Bluey people called it Hammerbarn. As a lot of Aussie Makers who use it extensively are also dads, it has become a bit of a thing to use the made up version in videos. However, recently they actually *did* in real life rebrand a few stores as Hammerbarns... brilliant marketing 🤣🔨

I did that for a while too, it does help. I really hope they release an Accu-Cut V2.0 soon, this design is over a decade old now I think, time for an update.

Ha! He did didn't he? Yes the camera adds a lot of time, which at the moment as a new dad I don't have so I find I'm filming less currently. YT can help fund the workshop, but only if you don't spend much to begin with 😅

Ha! This is one of those situations where you don't try to compete, you exploit the market! 😂😂

Awesome, glad it helped. The best part with burl is you can apply a coat or two of sealer into the gaps and not bother sanding it back except on the surface. I'd still recommend another test with the sealer in case you need 2 coats ;)

@FixitFingers thanks again man

Well, we bought an old 1970's 2 bedder unit, 10 years ago in our 30s, using a double household income and 10 years of savings with decent jobs, no kids, and family support... you know the usual way 😅 Seriously though, we are very fortunate, and while a garage was a must (no street parking here) this was before I took up the tools and was just lucky I had the space for a workshop...even with the car in. Sydney is nuts expensive, we are now looking to get out to the countryside where things are cheaper.

Two ways, predrilling in melamine should help stop it but you are still going into 'end grain' which is really weak because of the way melamine is compressed. My go to is Pocket holes. They and melamine are good friends. The way the jig works means the business end of the screw is hitting the face of the mating surface, which has more strength. Always put them on the outside of the 90° joint with course screws and that should stop splits and be super strong 👍

@FixitFingers Amazing response. Thank you so much. Im planning a wardrobe build, and this may have just saved me from having to use mdf and painting it

@@baz_k best of luck! If you use pocket holes, do a few tests to get the clutch setting on the drill right. Biggest risk in melamine is over driving and stripping the thread. Low is usually the go 😊