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Thanks for the video, had this issue for a while and this was a great help. Squeal has gone, however the parking brake will not hold the car on steeper hills now unless I go to around 12 clicks which doesn’t seem right. I’ve done the adjustment with the cogged wheel and to get the car to hold on a hill the adjustment is too tight so means the shoes are rubbing which is killing my economy/range. Any ideas?

I have a similar problem with our 2013 tiguan aside from the lock the rear wiper is not working at all . How to fix the rear wiper as well?

New subscriber ty brother

Replaced mine but it still locks then unlocks instantly. Leaving it partially closed but sets door alarm off when driving

Nissan should be sued. This is a f'n design flaw and Nissan should be required to provide all Nissan Leaf owners with a proper retrofit solution at no cost to the owners!

Brilliant job mate replace it like you showed thank you.

Collected my 2022 62kw Leaf (60k kilometers) from dealer after fixing the clicking sound, it has now re appeared 3 weeks later & they say it could be the brakes moving on the calibers & want 570 for front pads & discs which might fix the issue!

bullshit video

Is this the same on a newer leaf 2018 onwards?

I started experiencing this issue just couple of days before the MOT appointment!

you want some better wire brushes! Wurth calliper brushes or Mueller Kueps are the bees knees! Great video many thanks

no bolts on the end of brushes and a drive wheel on outside of brush colector with plastic covers on ither side so the brush is wrong ps there 13mil on ours

Great video Thankyou. Quick question. The brushes on my Countax c300h hydro static mower are constantly spinning. Is this normal? The previous owner had new belts installed just before I brought it. Could that have anything to do with it? Thanks in advance.

Mine has esp light on constantly,Failed MOT..abs and steering works fine and no lights on dashboard 201 pressure sensor electrical fault. Apparently it’s build in the abs module.Replaced 2 abs modules and fault is still there…Any help? :/

I have a stiga park hst that ive owned new since 2007 . Its been great . I derust/repaint the deck every couple of years and have replaced all the deck bearings in it a few times (as there are no grease points for these and the grease goes dry). Got 20 years out of the original battery . V. important that it is fully charged before storing for winter as AGM batteries die in a partial charge state. The Tufftorq gearbox is 'sealed for life' (as with most cars today), however it was recommended to me by a number of mower guys to change the oil every couple of years which i do and its noticeable the difference in colour when draining. On my mower Stiga purchased the Tufftorq gearbox from the manufacturer with the optional drain points on the main gearbox box and differential which is interesting.... They are often not drilled and tapped on other makes using Tufftorq. Perhaps Stigas definition of 'life' could be 10 years. I always change transmission oil on vehicles . (Had a friend who once had a Maserati with a ZF box and these were 'sealed for life' . No oil change required (which meant 100,000 for Maserati) however ZF did recommend oil change intervals for that partical box - Zf expected their boxes to last a lot longer than 100,000 with regular servicing.)

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filter part number has been discontinued...can you share with us for the K2-10 transmission what filter part no. did you use

Still super useful 4 years laters thanks.

Thanks for posting this! Very methodical and clear. Was helpful to see the process for revealing all of the outer driveshaft splines to make sure they're well coated. Has got rid of the sound for me on my E-nv200 (same front axle as a Leaf) A couple of tips/observations from doing it myself to add to the hive mind: 1. You don't need to remove the track rod end from the hub carrier. You can pivot the hub carrier enough with just the lower control arm removed in order to slide the driveshaft end out of the hub. 2. Tip for getting the lower control arm ball joint out of the split part of the hub carrier, I found turning the wheel so the front end of the hub is pointing most away from the vehicle gives you best clearance to hammer a cold chisel, or large screwdriver in the gap that you need to wedge open before you can pull the control arm ball joint out. (It was still a wrestle though!) 3. I had seen on multiple forums about an updated reccomended torque spec of 200nm for these hub nuts since Nissan discovered the common issue with them. It seems like the nut cover and split pin setup also just allows for a bit too much slack on the nut that it could easily back off over time, so will try to remember to routinely check it. Hope these tips are helpful for folks but thanks again for making the vid, was super appreciated! 😊

Yet another 1st class, no fuss informative video. Thank you for taking the time & effort to post these. It is very much appreciated.

Excellent video. Thank you very much indeed. You have inspired me to have a go.😊

Very interesting, I now want to try myself!

Brilliant video, you put your heart into the work and it shows

What is the part number of the filter ?

why is it necessary to disconnect the battery?

Nice detailed video. The condition of my 2013 LEAF driver's side rotor was basically identical to this one. In addition, my pads were seized up in the tracks of the caliper. Driver's side was seized so bad that the brakes were rubbing constantly and reducing my range. I used a fine-tooth square file to fully clean the tracks in the caliper, so that the new pads would not be too tight and unable to move freely. Also filed off some burrs on the ends of the new pads. Immediately noticed a quieter ride and increased range after doing both front wheels. Note that this car has spent its entire life in Illinois and Wisconsin, where the roads are heavily salted in the winter. If you live in a warmer climate, or wear out your brakes in less than 10 years, you probably won't have this issue.

It may help to loosen the adjustment shaft nuts before removing the assembly from the vehicle?

مرحبا اخي انا امتلك مثل هذة السيارة في جمهورية مصر العربية واريد شحن مجموعة مواسير مياة التبريد بالكامل لانها ليست موجودة في بلدي هل من الممكن انا تساعدني في الحصول عليها

My new-to-me A3 8P 2.0 TDI just developed this fault. When two bulb warnings flashed I realised it wasn’t likely to be blown bulbs & googled. Glad to find your video. A quick check shows the same wear on that one pin, so I can get the right parts order in & fixed fairly cheaply! (£40 for the holder though!!!). Thanks 😊

I have the bit holder version that comes in the yellow box, very nifty and well made as is all Facom tools

Works like a charm. Thanks for the detailed process.

hello, where did you send it for repair and how much did it cost?

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For anyone trying to open the inside fairing removing the hook is nessesery to remove it

Hi, what are the parts number and wr u bought them from ❓ thanks in advance

My 2020 Tiguan has the same problem.

Very helpful video, I have the truck too. My truck clutch plate is broken. please give me an explanation. I don't have any money right now. I Adjust my truck gear cable . Thats harmful gearbox? Please explain❤

A wee bit of grease on the bush/spacer will help it and keep it in place while reassembling it.

Bearing 30mm or 32mm? my audi a3 1.6 TDI 77kw.

Woow dude…. Got the same one! Learned so much. Thanksssss!!!

Where can i get a new cvt gearbox k210

Over haul calipers ,, replace piston seal kits. Sand blast caliper bodies and pad frames . Paint with either high temp caliper paint /engine enamel . Prime first .

Causes of heavy pad drag causing uneven and rapid pad wear . These calipers are either raw steel /cast iron . All calipers made of corrosive material have rusted since the 60`s . 1/ Corrosion restricts pad movement by pushing hardware onto pad . The pad movement is very tight . 2/ corrosion on caliper accumulates around piston/dust boot causing tightness of piston boot onto piston .

Thank you for this video! Just bought a Neos in really bad condition and this really helped

thank you bro, very nice video,

What's in that spray bottle ?

Should be mineral oil as fully synthetic glazes the bore!

Great tutorial

From Denmark: Thx Andrew for sharing. I am thinking of converting my ICE SPRINT FS to EL Assist prior to embarking on a trip to Turkey next year, over the Alps/Austria and following the Danube route to Greece. So, your How2 video comes in handy. I am 80 years old and last summer I completed a trip of 2.886 Km, NO EL Assist with a ZIFLEX trailer in tow for my camping gear and spare parts, which took me from Ebeltoft (Denmark) to Frederikshavn (DK), Ferry to Gothenburg and Triking to Stockholm, Ferry to Turku (Finland), Triking to Helsinki, after 6 weeks in Finland, I took the ferry back to Stockholm, Following the East Coast, south bound to Ystad (SE), I made a stop at the Swedish Island of Gotland, Ferry from Ystad (South-East of Sweden) to the Danish Island of Bornholm and 2 weeks stay there, Ferry to Køge (38 km south of Copenhagen, Triking to the Danish Island of Ærø with a couple of ferry crossings and back to Ebeltoft. Only problem: the ALUMINIUM nipples on the back wheel kept breaking down one after the other, so I changed all the spokes/nipples on the rear wheel, once I found a bike shop in Stockholm on my way back, that had spokes with the proper length (180 mm)... The Tetra T-Mount looks perfect as support for the accessories....

Thanks for the video. i have Westwood v20-50. when ive jump started the ride on mower it wouldn't start - can you help - other times it will start without jump starting. After driving and turning engine off and re-starting....it may not drive. Can you help? Does it have a safety switch which i may have accidentally moved?