Video

What did you use for the trim pieces?

I’m just got mine yesterday still working on it. There are a lot of problems. In my kit the part number on screws doesn’t match the instructions. The walls and the floor don’t like the hot sun they warp not wanting to stay together before you can get a screw in them. Definitely a two person job.

I’m doing this same build. I bought some flanged sleeve bearings from McMaster Carr to eliminate the play. 🤞🤞

Ya dun messed up A-aron.... much easier to assemble each upright, then stand them u, adding the crossbars as you go.

Do the straps come with or did you purchase to add extra strength?

How much did your mods increase performance?

Thanks for sharing your build Need all the help I can get🙂

They are nice but the cover will go bad after a few years

Hello , thinking of getting one. While on the hoist does it sag at all? Thanks for your Video.

Thanks for a clear and concise walkthrough, seems like a solid choice.

We just pick this up at harbor freight today. Does anyone know what the movable brackets are for?

How did you secure the shed to the wood base?

Niceee

Bought this for my pop on Father’s Day and we can’t wait to put this together. Awesome video assembly 👍🏽

Take back fence and take it to an engineering place to have it skimmed flat .. shouldn't be to expensive to do ..they do it on car cylinder heads all the time .

This is one of the videos that explains the setup. czcams.com/video/EGYdSR9riWI/video.htmlsi=i-6x_mRuOjILma38

Agonized about posting this but, in the interests of jointers everywhere, I feel I must. This video should have been called "How to NOT set up a jointer". You started off checking your cutter head using the outfeed table as a reference..... and then you moved/shimmed the outfeed table. Just think about that for a moment. One of your tables might have had a slight dip in it but that, while not ideal, is not the cause of your troubles. It does take time, trial and error, to get your both tables coplanar. Use your outfeed table as a reference and then set everything else to be coplaner to that. 99 x out of 100, it should only be necessary to use shims on your infeed table. Lastly, (I might have missed it) you never mentioned or checked your blades. YT is full of videos showing how to properly set the height of your blades with the aid of magnets and a dial indicator if you dont want buy the knife setting jig. There are thousands of people around the world using jointers older and "worse" than yours that work flawlessly. Spend a bit of time on YT and you'll find lots of videos showing how to PROPERLY set your machine up. You will not regret it.

Great channel, new sub. I watched your video on the Harbor freight coverpro portable garage because I just picked one up and then I found this project which is something I will be doing this year as well. How was the garage holding up and did you put any type of floor system in there, gravel or any type of pavers or wood???

What are the dimensions for the door? Would like to find some temporary storage for a small Kubota.

at 4:15 he says FU to the instructions and puts the bolt on the inside. Me putting it together the way that they said to with no needle nose pliers saying FUUUUU to HFT

I have same issue roof not aligned properly Still struggling

Put one together two days ago. Had a problem with last roof panel. But was able to make it work. Would suggest putting on the end pieces than the center pieces. Other than that it came out great.

Have you tried splitting the difference between the infeed and outfeed table, getting it close enough? You could square it up on the table saw by just ripping both sides without any special method or jig. Since the edge your creating is flat just angled you shouldn't need stumpy nubs method. If you are happy enough with the tables being co-planar then it seems like your fence has a twist. You could just have the fence ground flat at a machine shop, not sure what that would cost. As far as a parallelogram jointer, that would make getting the tables co-planar easier in the sense you wouldn't have to shim, but if the fence had a twist you would have the same problem getting square sides.

You should wear your mask together with your bra and high heels while you paint your nails.

I had the same exact struggles you had. Took me a day and a half. One thing for sure it has to be perfectly plum or you will have problems

Just bought one and putting it up this weekend. I had the 10x17 and it held up great till we had a small tornado hit us here in Florida a couple weeks ago so it ended up in the trees lol. They are $399 even without the inside track discount.

As long you have an existing building, puttting a limited life, soft shelter up against it is not worth it. Run a row of posts 10' interval 24" in the ground, add the ledger boards, 2x6 rafters 3' oc, 1x4 purlins 2' oc. New or used tin (if used NP1 will sealup thr old screw holes). I think you can double or triple the area for the same $350 cost. Yes, I left the girts and side tin off as they came be added later. But congrats on the completed project and the gained space.

This is a long shot but I'm looking for some help. I run a dried food product through a hammermill and I need to serparate the flakes and the powder for sale. I am getting some of the powder by having a dust collector hooked up t oa closed box. The vent is on the top portion of the box so it collects the dust that is in the air. however, a lot of the flakes and powder are mixing together. Does anyone know of a good method to collect more powder?

I just put this together today on a cement pad with no prior prep work or studying. Not the worst thing I’ve put together, but it was 9 hours solid, probably three of those hours with my wife helping me with the walls and roof. I would guess you don’t stand a chance alone when it comes to the roof. My comments: manual is spotty, it literally skipped quite a few steps in the doors section I think, and just isn’t clear at times. Plan on supplementing with the video. A few holes weren’t drilled out, and they shorted me a washer. Floor seemed warped, fit together in one corner then it popped loose on the other side when working with it. Managed to get it together, but with a bit of gap. Roof was the worst for lining up, and 2nd person was needed to help finagle and hold panels while screwing to trusses. Also, someone commented on the side window. It seems like it’s meant to open, so what’s with the screw? Isn’t that what the latches are for? Be warned if you do slide it open, it scratched my glass anyway. Overall I’m happy with the finished product. I’ve assembled a lot of furniture and stuff over the years, so I’ve come to expect some hiccups along the way. This was about average. Make sure you have a hard, level surface and take your time and really pay attention or it would get the best of you.

I'm afraid nothing beats the video with the guy in red shirt, I guess it's produced by Lifetime Sheds. I watched it to get a feel for what I was going to have to do and then watched segments right before we were assembling each section. It helped tremendously. The instruction book helped a fraction as I could easily see what bag of bolts, part numbers and tools I needed at a glance. We just finished yesterday and it was a long process. I watched this bearded guy's video to see if he went over a couple trouble spots and how he handled them. Sadly, this guy should not have bothered making this video. And I think he seriously bent the panel that he left blowing in the wind to fall over. (We quickly screwed them to each other as we went because it was an accident waiting to happen.) And him trying to kick the panels in place with flip flops was just painful to watch. He had one valuable piece of advice that official video didn't mention--there were a lot of sections where the jokes had pieces of plastic obscuring the hole. When dealing with difficult lighting, proper holes would have helped tremendously. Some holes weren't even started and I had to glance back at official video to clarify that it was supposed to be a hole when it was only a divot. Also, that very last piece that looked like he butchered it in place on the rooftop--I really think it just needed turned around is all. I was really tired at that point myself and it didn't want to fit and I just turned it around and it fit like a glove. I read some comments about this Lifetime Shed and how parts didn't line up and its screw holes. Take your time and prepare a flat service and a flat deck or you will be one of those people who struggled and blamed the shed.

How much? Should I charge to install one of those

Thank you for sharing. You have 1:39:33 of patience, hopefully i ,lol. Anyway I'll be assembling mine this weekend, after I make the platform, wish me luck🎉. Again, thank you for your time

Waiting for ensuing videos.

Interesting video. I was wondering if you are organizing and marking the items and parts that you are removing so when it comes time to reinstall them easier or will your videos be reinstallation guide. I am glad to see someone who has as much difficulty in this phase of destruction as I normally do. Thank you for the video. I have a couple of golf carts I plan to convert into half-track loosely patterned after the MB3A1 (very loosely), powered by a 8kw diesel generator. Your video has shown me how to overcome the trials and tribulations one might encounter. The goal of my build to have a blacksmithing utility vehicle. One must have a goal…right? Again, thank you.😂

1:36.30 i had the same problem in the same place i got it together with a Ratchet Tie down and ones that i had in position took it off and look great.

Will this be able to handle a semi truck diesel engine?

Hello, Très bonne introduction sur le Cub. Je viens d'en acquerir un, avez vous avancé sur les votres?

Has anyone watch the Lifetime video, and if so, is the assembly accurate???

I am having the same issues with the floor. It's like they are warped and will not go together evenly. I am about ready to send this thing back to Costco and pay someone to put up a wood one.

Hallo aus Germany, ich finde dein Video sehr hilfreich als Vorbereitung und ich habe dir in deiner Ruhigen Art gerne zugesehen und viele Wertvolle Tipps gesehen. 👍👍👋 Hello from Germany, I find your video very helpful as preparation and I enjoyed watching you in your calm manner and saw many valuable tips. 👍👍👋

Which crane would be best or adequate for lifting a Ford F150 bed off the truck? Would the 1 ton crane do the job safely or would I need the 2 ton crane?

Sorry but for the casters esp the brake, the screws need to be opposite ie heads on top. In your video, the castor will not swivel because it hits the nut, I know because I tried it. Thanks great video

Just a note for everyone. If you have a 25' hose and you keep all the hose curled up next to the collector you are still pulling air 25'. The air must flow through the full 25' of hose regardless of it being stretched out or curled up.

Thank you so gnarly!!!

I had sooo much problem with roof for 6×6... last panels... i somehow maneged to put it but with price of broken parts, some panels etc... 3 hours of pure frustration.

Hey man, I applaud your valiant effort. I have a Jet 6 inch, 4 years old. Worked great . Last year I had to remove the tables to replace busted ball crank on infeed table. Put it all back together and jointer has never been the same. I mill up some boards and all is good. Start a new project and boards come out whack! I didn't touch anything! My machine is demented.

What’s the name of that gasket you used

Do you think this shed would mount well in a tree as a treehouse?

PSA: The reason why the fins on the original impeller were facing the "wrong" way is because when manufacturers rate their blowers, they test the blowers without *any* filters or hoses attached; they just take the blower (motor, housing, impeller), and test the performance of that unit by itself. And when you've got just the blower sitting by itself, the original impeller will move more air than an equally-sized impeller that's "properly" designed (like the aftermarket one that Lindsey retrofitted to his blower). So the manufacturers test it like that, and then slap a label on it saying "Look, under *ideal* circumstances, this unit will move *THIS* much air". They do this while quietly "forgetting" that in the real world, there *ARE* going to be a bunch of filters and tubing and hoses attached, not to mention that before the air even reaches those, it'll first have to pass through the internals of a tablesaw, or a planer, or a thicknesser, or a planer-thicknesser combo or drum sander or whatever machine tool is attached at the end of all that plumbing. Maybe you've at some point heard some old story about how in the USSR, products were... just a little bit shit, for lack of a better term, because the management were tunnel-visioning in on certain design requirements set by the state, to the detriment of the actual *usefulness* of the product to the end user. Well, sometimes that happens here too. In the case of dust collectors, it's CFM. Everybody wants CFM. The manufacturers *know* that everybody wants CFM. So they give you CFM. Even when it means that you end up with a piece of equipment that is... just a little bit shit, for lack of a better term, under real-world conditions, and that you have to retrofit with aftermarket parts right out of the box in order to make them genuinely useful. Obviously, it's not a U.S.-specific thing, either. I'm swedish, and when I browsed the retailers that sell here, I hardly saw anybody list the pressure ratings of their blowers. Metabo did, for their SPA 1200 (0.55kw or ~¾hp, with a 1600 Pascal peak pressure,) and SPA 1702 W (0.75kw or ~1hp, with a 1730 Pa peak), but apart from Metabo, everyone is giving us dust collector performance metrics in terms of m³/min and that's it. P.S. Please pin this. P.P.S. The forward-swept fins of the original impeller are also less energy-efficient than the backwards-swept fins of the replacement part, *but* therein lies a tradeoff for the manufacturer; the back-swept impeller would need to be *larger* in order to move the same amount of air. So what do you go for? * A smaller (and therefore cheaper) impeller in a correspondingly small and cheap housing? * Or a larger (and therefore more expensive) impeller in a correspondingly larger and more expensive housing, that moves the same amount of air as the smaller one, but using less power to do so? Obviously the up-front cost of the larger impeller and housing outweighs the lifetime energy waste of the more compact counterpart, and so that's another incentive to enshittify the product.

Just got a “good deal” on one of these jointers. On the way home someone cut the straps when we pulled off for lunch. Came back to the truck with parts I’ve never seen laying on the floor of the trailer. The business owner just so happened to not have any footage from the cameras that pointed directly at my vehicle. Thanks for the setup video, I’ll be doing the same this weekend