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I did reply to this message but I can't see my own reply, so I assume it didn't g through. I did reseat the frets (although I did not include that in the video) but the asymmetry was still there. In any case, it is very unlikely that the frets would be 100% leveled, anyway, after reseating the frets on a completed guitar. So, it would be going on the neck jig regardless. The fret rocker can only show you if there is a high spot on a single fret, measured between two adjacent frets. It does not show you if there's a low spot on that fret and it also doesn't show you the topography of the entire fretboard. The best way to diagnose the topography of the entire fretboard is to mark the frets in red, put the guitar on the neck jig and do a light pass with a straight leveling beam. This procedure, even just as a diagnostic procedure, reveals a lot more than the fret rocker ever can. Then, once the guitar is already on the jig, might as well finish the job and do a full LCP. Hope this makes sense.

Right on.

Welcome aboard!

Welcome to the channel. Glad to have you on board.

Thank you very much for your nice words.

LOL… it also doesn’t always work on all a regular fretboards, simply due to the fact that sometimes the fretboards are not even.

That job cost me money because I ended up spending so many hours on it. Those are the hours that I was not able to spend on other guitars. But the business still requires me to pay rent for every hour of the working day. I actually had to turn down other jobs because I was stuck in this one for a long time.

The fabrication of this trem block ended up costing me. The only way I would do it again is if it customer was paying by the hour, for every minute that went into making the final product. Good luck to you.

@@GuitarQuackery I live in Brazil, there arent many of those around here. But Afer 3 years "patrolling" online, I found one in perfect condition, at 8 km of this friend of mine that lives in New York, and last december he brought it with him . Graciliano Zambonin, check his channel, by the way, he is a great jazz drummer.

@@adrianopadilha7338 Again, good luck with your efforts. I believe all of those trem blocks will fall apart and the easiest replacements to make are going to be brass. You just need to find a local machinist that will do the work. But there are many tricky turns and hidden surprises that I did not include in the video. So, it will end up taking more time than one can predict. I checked out Graciliano Zambonin. I guess him and I are practically neighbors. Great work.

John, I do refrets on old Gibson guitars all the time. In fact, I am refreting a Gibson Les Paul this week, as we speak, as well as vintage Fender Strat. I would not have to refret this one, though, to fix the issues. The binding does not have to be replaced, necessarily, as there are ways of fixing the nibs, by fusing melted binding plastics. The fillings on this nut are actually holding up, although there is a little bit of chipping on one of the strings. I am more having an issue with the fact that this was done without disclosing it to the customer. Also, there are better methods of fixing low string slots on the nut, other than the superglue method. If I do any of that work, it should be an interesting video.

It’s gonna be difficult to make a Gretsch stay in tune, due to the headstock and nut design. The strings on most Gretsch Guitars fan out towards the tuning post more than they do on a Gibson design. Plus the way they cut the nut on a Gretsch really doesn’t help. That’s vintage spec for you.

@@GuitarQuackery : Thanks! I really appreciate your honest answer. I would have liked a more positive one, given the fact that it’s not a cheap instrument. At least I know that I won’t be able to play it without going out of tune. Thanks! 😅👍

@@mariodriessen9740 I'm sure it can be played with a Bigsby and not going too much out of tune, if you stick to vibratos that are not too extreme. I would also entertain the idea of having a custom made String Butler made, to replace the truss rod cover. It would be costly, but I think it would improve things a bit. You would also have to make sure the nut is cut just right, especially if you do end up installing a String Butler type of accessory, which would alter the string break angle at the nut. Hope this makes sense.

@@GuitarQuackery : It does make sense. Absolutely! I want nothing else than very subtle vibratos anyway. Thanks for your advice. 😊

I like that last phrase. It sounds like an old Chinese proverb.

Glad it was helpful. Are you still going to buy it?

@@GuitarQuackery Another channel suggested the Epiphone 1959 LP Standard Outfit ADB, so I'm looking at that now. $500 less. ;-)

I used to feel the same way about fret nibs, but over the years I've grown to like them. Although I have seen Gibson guitars with fret nib playability issues, none of my Gibson guitars have any issues with the fret nibs. If they are properly done, they do not affect the playability for my personal playing style. But I do understand that they don't work for everyone.

Do you think you might like them on acoustic guitars? As the high E string is less likely to slip, on an acoustic?

Thanks. I guess I'll just have to make some more, LOL. If you really like the channel, please share with others, to help the channel grow. Thanks.

Thanks, will do!

Although I didn't mention what that scope was used for, prior to it being used on my customer's guitar.

Clearly used in all manner of f-holes!

The wiring through the F holes isn’t exactly my favorite thing to work on, either.

@@GuitarQuackery I have a hollow body, (The Loar), that would really benefit from treble bleed circuits, but I dread doing the job.

Steel wool has the tendency to get everywhere. On the workbench, clothes, smart phones with magnets in them, etc. One tech just told me that he doesn’t like to use steel wool because it seems to be getting under his skin.

That’s a good proverb.

Thank you for sharing this. As it turns out, this tone circuit is not very effective, and it is something that I might work on when this guitar comes back to the shop for the fret nib repair, probably in the fall.

@@GuitarQuackery also, always check polarity of cap. 1 in 12? is wrong polarity as marked, if marked at all. grip between thumb and finger when in guitar cable circuit with amp on, less hum is the way, more hum is baskakwards

@@raffyzoo2130 Interesting. I actually remember watching an old video form Mr. Carson's Lab, about foil cap polarity. He made a small device to hold the cap in place that switches polarity, while holding a cap that's hooked up to an oscilloscope. But it never occurred to me to use his test for guitar caps. But it does in fact make sense. The static that shows up on the scope screen will be hear as noise.

@@GuitarQuackery i use half a guitar cord, shield soldered to alligator clip(ground),center soldered to diff alligator clip.(+), both clips screwed to small wood thing. if polarity is correct, cap outside is ground, and less hum when pinched by hand. use an amp, you should hear a small diff when switching the cap, uh, reversing it.

Good point. Some of those guitars just don’t have enough of a break angle across the saddles.

...and useful, too.

Which part of the video was the cliff hanger? I'd really like to know. This way I can think of ways to include more tense moments in future videos.

Kind of like when you're in the dentist chair, ready for fillings, and he gets up, puts on his jacket and goes home...

Thanks. I've been using microscopes for years. I've bene obsessed with microscopes since wi was about 6 or 7 years old. My parents wouldn't buy me one, so I ended up making my own microscope and brought ti to school, for science class.

I guess there are many other things that I also didn't mention. Can't include everything.

All brands have some sort of QC issues every now and then. I just returned a MIM Fender strat that had some issues as well. The intonation on the 12th fret was so far sharp that it was almost the next note.. And I just saw a video of someone reviewing a brand new American fender strat that had a crooked neck. I'm not a Gibson fanboy, nor do I claim they're perfect. But I'm sick of seeing everyone act like Gibson is the only company that has QC issues and make a meme out of it.

I have a Gibson ES-335 from around that time and that guitar also has frets that look like flat metal bars. I never got around to crowning them. I hardly ever play that guitar and never liked the feel of those frets.

Gibson is definitely not the only company with QC issues. Fender has plenty to talk about. I even made some review videos of new fender guitars that people brought to the shop for setups. And PRS also has QC issues, BTW.

I never use steel wool, even when I Level Crown & Polish. It is not even so much because of the contamination issues. I also get much better results polishing the frets using many other methods (also used by others) that do not include steel wool.

@@GuitarQuackery What I was trying to ask was are the filings from leveling and crowning frets just as dangerous of contaminating your pickups as steel wool?

@@Bliggick That's a very interesting question and point. They are much smaller than steel wool particles and they are not magnetic. But, you do bring up a good point and it's worth investigating. I'll write down this idea for a future video. Thanks.

Some people don't like the nibs. I used to hate them and I refretted one of my Les Pauls because of that. But later I started liking them.

I believe fret nibs are just an outcome of the Gibson production workflow. They make a fretboard, with the frets installed, then they glue it on the neck, then put oversized binding on each side. Then they need to trim the oversized binding. I alway believed it was a production cost savings decision.