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You guys are awesome, I really hope it does blow up, but honestly I do it mostly because I love this kind of stuff, and I love helping people out.

I think if you go very slowly, with a helper, it could work... But as I stated in the video, this particular saw isn't designed for professionals. As old as this video is, I have used the tile saw maybe six times in total. It's perfect for someone like me, who does maintenance which occasionally requires a little bit of tile work. Definitely not for a professional tile installer... 2 ft by 4 ft seems awful big, that's like a drop-ceiling sized tile. I would just be super careful and definitely wear safety squints!

I have worked on a CDI 1000, but it's probably an older unit. I'm sure some of the components on the board are relabeled or even rearranged. It's been a while since I worked on a Crown amp, but I do have a XLS 1002 in my possession that puts out audio but only sometimes, and has display issues including both thermal lights lighting up even when it's cold LOL. So I am going to jump back into the crown amp repair situation, hopefully I can return some information that might help. But if you've got a CDI model that I don't have on hand, honestly without looking at it first hand, I don't know that I can help. But at least I can gleam from some of the newer and older amps made by Crown, what changes have been made over the years

I'm afraid on this question, you might need to seek help elsewhere, possibly the manufacturer of the Android head unit. My video is mostly about older vehicles talking to *somewhat* modern stereos, but not the Android powered ones... I have zero experience with Android head units, and I'm personally not a fan of touch screen interfaces in a car. I mean don't get me wrong, I love my Android LOL, I just don't think it belongs in the head unit. I believe the head unit should just be a (dumb) Bluetooth receiver, and the Android operating system (or iOS) on your easily replaceable/upgradeable phone... This is of course personal opinion, but my point being, I don't have any experience with that type of setup so I would be of little help...

Is that IP address hard coded? In other words, was it manually typed in when you formatted the SD card? By default, it should be set to the same Wi-Fi router that you use for everything else, and it should be such a DHCP... At least ideally, that guarantees that it will be granted an address on the same network. Another option is to manually set a static IP upon format in the 192.XXX region. And just make sure that the gateway IP is correct... If you follow the instructions on my website, it should come up just fine unless you have more than one Wi-Fi router and you choose the wrong one...

@@JustinNelsonsProjects No it was not hardcoded, I didn’t see an option for that in the raspberry pi imager. It is the IP that shows up when running ifconfig.

As I mention in the *main* video (this one's just some minor updates), there is currently no universal way to extract video information from within the television. There are people who claim to be able to hack very specific TV models' firmware and somehow get color information via USB, but I've never seen this actually work. And even the ones who claim to have done so, state that DRM-protected content (aka most everything you might stream eg Netflix etc) still can't be used. Just pick up a cheap Roku box.... seriously, if you can afford a 98" TV, a <$100 box can't be that huge a deal 😉 I calculate approximately 268 inches, or 22.3 feet around a 98" TV (depends on bezel etc). So you would need two 16' (5m) strips of LEDs... I would recommend powering the second strip separately, both with probably a 5-volt, 6-Amp supply, to avoid too much voltage drop around the screen...

If that is a question, I actually don't have an answer for you. I've never had a V6 Camaro... I had a 1984 Camaro with the 305 V8 many many years ago LOL. You should be able to tell just by looking though. Or, ask on different car forums if it's there but maybe a little more hidden. Annie case if it has a bleeder it will be somewhere at the highest physical point of the cooling system. I actually think that 3.8 is the older version before the "3800" series was introduced but I could be mistaken...

Just to follow up on my last comment, I did it on an older Buick regal that had the other version of the 3.8 engine, and it did not have that bleeder. But that's not to say the Camaro does not, I can't say with any certainty which engine specifically came in that car or it's orientation. Usually on a larger car you don't have a bleeder because the reservoir sits higher than everything else. The only reason for the bleeder is when they cram a pretty large engine in a rather small engine bay.

I think my first recommendation would be, make sure the corner braces are very securely attached. There is a lot of current flowing through those, and I suspect one of the connections is overheating and then basically no longer conducting current... When it does that again, follow the path starting at the input side of the LED strip, and whichever corner brace is where the lights stop working, give that one a very good look (and feel if it's getting warm)... Another idea that I actually ended up doing on one of my tvs, it's just to solder two wires from the positive and negative pads on each end of the corner just to ensure a very good connection. I will include that detail when I make an update video... I really hope this helps!

In all honesty I only owned that car for a brief period. It was a fixer-upper that I flipped and sold. I only bought the car cassette so I could listen to my phone through the stereo (as well as use the hands-free phone), given that the Taurus has such a weird shaped oval stereo, an aftermarket would be pretty difficult to make look correct. But after reading your comment, I had to dig out the car cassette, and just one look at the tape head in the cassette, it is in fact mono - and I never even noticed it LOL 🤣 Also keep in mind, the stock sound system wasn't exactly super high Fidelity lol...

I wish I could help, but please read the pinned comment...

In the future I plan to make a larger version and will likely use an esp32. This particular project was just to show how powerful the tiny little esp-01 can be

I've been doing it this way on two different TVs for quite a while now. I find it's perfectly safe as long as you are using a highly regulated 5 volt power supply. Some people are uncomfortable with that, and in that case you could just cut the red wire on the header pin (disconnecting it from the pi) and use the dedicated Raspberry Pi power supply. I only did it that way to bring the whole project down to only using a single outlet, and it's one less wire coming from the back of the TV. Best of luck!

I'm pretty sure the mineral oil trick is actually a bad idea. I would definitely do a little more research before trying that... It's not the same as seasoning a cast iron pan to make it non-stick as other videos have tried to say... Ask for me personally, I've changed my tune since posting this video quite some time ago lol. I still don't care for the bi-metal, but I do use all metal heat breaks now. And when I'm done with a friend I tend to pull the filament out as it's cooling down, attempting to leave the nozzle and heat break empty and clean (ish)...

I can't say with 100% certainty, but as long as you split the signal with the recommended splitter, before the AVR, everything should work. EDIT: it would probably be better to use the *output* of the AVR that connects to the television, split that particular signal, and then use that for your Ambilights... I don't have a receiver to test the theory with, all I have currently is a soundbar... And I use a 4 in, 2 out, HDMI switch box to select different inputs, and I use the output of that to run the Ambilights. Down the road I'll be upgrading once I move to a bigger house...

In the capture settings in hyper HDR, there is a setting for RGB order. In other words what order are the colors in. And it's not actually sent as red green blue, it's usually gbr instead. Play around with that and you'll get your colors right. I'm happy to hear you're enjoying the project, I'm sure it was totally worth the effort even with reinstalling multiple times, believe me I have been there done that LOL. 🤣 I've probably installed the Raspberry Pi OS at least 25 times in the making of this video and subsequent trial and error to get the website up-to-date etc. but in the end, the end result is always worth it once you get all the settings tweaked

Just to reply to my own reply, I'm getting ready to watch the latest Star Trek Discovery episode and with all the lights off, the back lighting just makes my 65 inch TV feel like the entire wall is part of the TV...

Hmm or could I go to wled first and apply the 5v 60a power supply too 10000ma ..... or 8000milliamp HELP ha my capture card comes in morning tvs off the wall ready

😊

If by "transformer" you mean an actual transformer (not a switch-mode power supply) then I would NOT use that. The voltage, unregulated, would be all over the place and will fry the Pi and the LED strip. If it's a regulated supply, and you measure 5.0 or 5.1 volts consistently, then it should be fine. Changing the "max milliamp" setting does not affect the power supply... it just changes what the software does, limiting (using math) how much current it expects each LED to draw; it is by no means exact. Also... my project does NOT use WLED, so you're going a different route, so I can't really give you much more advise ...

It's a power supply big silver block thing 5v 60amps

@@jamiehawman66 okay so it's basically a switch mode power supply in an aluminum brick. Those are generally pretty steady with the voltage. I believe they are specifically designed for driving LEDs so that should work.

If you are referring to the end-stop, I did have to move the microswitch, which is so conveniently located on the backside of the left rail and has two screws that are hard to get to ... that's the main part so that it doesn't go to low and dig into the build plate. You can adjust for this using the bed adjustment screws, which is easier... but to get greater control over the bed leveling I would adjust the position (slightly!) of that end-stop switch.

@@JustinNelsonsProjects thank you for your reply I did exactly that and running smooth I did the red volcano upgrade and just finished calibration. I used your file and printed in the glow in the dark. Thank god you posted this or I would be with a dud right now.

it flashes all colours when i reboot it but cant get the signal from tv and capture card

@@grinnermatt Double-check the Video Capture settings, make sure it is seeing the USB capture and that it is enabled...

I honestly couldn't tell you without having that particular amp on my bench... I can only speak to the XTI/DSI series that I show in my videos, and only to that one particular power-on issue... Wish I could be more helpful...

Update: I removed the wires/sockets from the JST Connector, connected the red wire to Pin #1 (3v), and the Black wire to Pin #9 (GND).

They must have changed the fan connector since I purchased mine. Glad you figured out the solution though! I will have to update the instructions, or recommend a different kit... thanks for the heads-up and thanks for watching!

In my experience, with the TV set on "Cinema" mode (or similar), the TV itself adds a slight delay, and it tends to sync up rather nicely with the very slight delay of the capture processing. I haven't noticed any difference between the screen and the LEDs at all... The footage I show in the video is ACTUAL footage of this running using the exact procedure I demonstrated. Nothing was faked or altered to sync the LEDs with the screen.

Thanks so much for the life advice, I will take it to heart. Seriously, you watched THIS video and that's your takeaway?

If the LEDs are working (you get the rainbow "startup" pattern), then something is going on with the capture settings. Under video capture settings, try setting the Hardware Brightness to a lower value; also under Video Processing, double-check those settings against what is shown on the web tutorial...

Thank you so much for the kind words! Comments like this make it worth the time and effort of putting together a video

Thank you for the kind words, comments like this make it worth the effort!

I just had to go double-check, but my Vizio TV that does not support Dolby Vision, does in fact receive hdr10 from Netflix, through the splitter and with the Ambilight working

I forgot to address your other question. As long as there are enough resources available on the Raspberry Pi running home assistant, meaning you've got a free USB port and all that, you should be able to run it on the same pi. Linux is excellent at multitasking... But if you start seeing glitches or delays on the leds, it might be worth picking up just an inexpensive Pi zero 2 W... And dedicate that for hyper HDR

I replied to your comment on the other video but I'll reiterate here, as long as there are enough resources available, Linux is excellent at multitasking so you shouldn't have any issue running home assistant and hyper hdr on the same pi. But if it ends up being glitchy or just not working, it might be worth simply picking up a Raspberry Pi zero 2 W... That's what I use on my bedroom TV and it works perfectly. Just make sure the number two is in there, the original Pi zero is 32-bit and has a very hard time keeping up with the LEDs.

@@JustinNelsonsProjects Thank you very much for your reply it really helped me so far. Another one I was asking myself was, if I should put my Wled light installations on the Pi Zero (where HyperHDR is on) or on the one with Homeassistant. I am still unsure if homeassistant takes more power or the light stuff and how to allocate the tasks to the right „computer“. Or maybe its even worth it to go for another ras 3 or 4?

@@jangobeast7251 Firstly, this project (as I do in my video) does NOT use WLED at all. A dedicated Raspberry Pi Zero, following the installation instructions on my website, along with my level shifter / adaptor cable, is all you need. Your Home Assistant Pi can (and should) be a completely separate computer... You might want to re-watch the video, along with the update video I link at the end... to get a better understanding that this is a stand-alone project, requiring NO extra microcontroller (ESP etc) and NO WLED... hope this helps

I haven't actually watched the video in a while, but I did have one machine where I didn't really want to get into details of what caused its demise if you're easily grossed out stop reading now LOL. I had a small ant issue on my countertop, and it turned out there was a colony living inside that particular Keurig machine. It actually worked but I had no interest in drinking anything coming out of that machine LOL So that one was partly my fault because I didn't catch it in time, and I'm a little afraid to even open it up and see what is inside there. Whatever's in there I don't want to share on you tube...

As far as I am aware, all 3800 V6 engines have the bleeder valve. Other vehicles, or other engines, often have the coolant reservoir at a higher point than where the thermostat is, in which case a bleeder isn't necessary. A cooling system will always bleed out air at the highest point of the system. It's just that the large V6 in a medium sized car makes it to where you have to have somewhere to bleed it at the uppermost part of the system and in this case it happens to be the thermostat. In other words, if there is no bleeder valve, you probably don't need it. You can just run the engine for a while and keep topping off the reservoir. It will naturally burp out any air trapped in the system

Is the HDR problem the lights outputting a different color or that the output of the Capture Card is not showing as HDR?

@@LuisPerez-st6bt the HDR is showing different colors, i have test all RGB sorting options but no one match the colors, what I am missing?

Awesome, I just found this project and an working my way through the video through WLED subreddit.

@justinNelsonsProjects hi Justin I have all the uquipment ras pi 3b with hyperion 2.0 installed..... I have 224 leds ws2812b around my tv.... however I don't have a 5v 10amp plug I do have a 5v 60amp power unit supply could I wire it upto that instead or would that just blow everything tvs off the wall all ready to wire everything up but I don't know if I can use that power unit

Make sure you go through all the steps on the website, if you don't tell hyper HDR how many LEDs are on each side, that's exactly what it will do, light up one LED . Let me know if that helps, but that is the most common reason why only one LED lights up

@@JustinNelsonsProjects that was part of it. It also helped me notice I did a really dumb mistake. I connected the adapter flipped (data on the 5v pin)… importance of following instructions. Thank you so much!

@@IScrappycocoI I didn't want to give this a thumbs down because mistakes are mistakes... But I'm glad you got it sorted out and it did not fry your Raspberry Pi because that could easily happen in that situation. If I had a color laser printer, the instruction sheet would probably make it a slight bit more obvious. Instead I just typed the word red and, skip this pin. But I'm happy to hear that your Raspberry Pi survived, let us know if you get the whole setup running correctly and looking nice. And thanks so much for your support!

The only thing I can think of is either a bad heat cartridge, incomplete heat transfer paste, or just a bad hot end Usually if you're not getting the property, you're either not getting the correct wattage, or you're not getting the right voltage to the heat cartridge, remember some are 12 volt and some are 24 volt so that's extremely important.,.. Other than that, I would like to the power supply as a potential problem. Really depends on the printer

One other thing to look at, in the nylon loop where all the wires connect, make sure all the connections are solid.

It does in fact require an external video source like a fire stick, Roku box, in my case I'm using a Comcast Xfinity streaming box called the flexbox... You can also use a PC or an Xbox or playstation, but my point is it will not work with the built-in Smart TV apps. The whole idea is that you're splitting the signal two ways from your external streaming device whatever it may be. 1 path goes to the television and one path goes to the Raspberry Pi via the capture device. The video explains it pretty clearly, so perhaps give it another view and you'll kind of understand why and external streaming device is kind of a requirement along with a splitter device of some sort. The update video is mostly just showing a few things I learned since the first video from a couple of months ago. That video is linked from this video, which explains all the hardware stuff. The one you're commenting on right now is just the update where I discovered a couple of new tricks and simplified it a little bit more

@@JustinNelsonsProjects Got it. Actually I've done it to my TV. The PC is connected to the TV via HDMI. Instead of a splitter, I'm using Hyperion on the PC which is sending the results of screen capture to an Arduino connected to led strips behind the TV.

You know this is a problem I struggled with for a long time, and one day I was just sitting here with my flashlight and thought, if I could pinpoint exactly where it would reflect off the television in a negative way, I can figure out exactly where to position overhead lights I'm glad you found it helpful, thanks for watching, always appreciated!

Unfortunately I'm not able to use your technique as I'm doing a renovation for my new home and there's no TV yet! But it does make me think about light angles so thanks for that!

I'm glad you had success with this project, as we all know every vehicle is different even if they're made by the same company such as General Motors.

@@JustinNelsonsProjects For sure. I still checked with the factory service manual and measured my actual wheel. Your sketch was a good starting point and I don't think I had to change much. Well, with the top half anyway. I might have to get a Kenwood in the future. I like my Pioneer but the wired remote is limited. Fortunately I'm not so lazy that I can't just reach over if I need to 😁

Firstly, make sure you have HyperHDR configured properly; usually if only ONE LED is lit, that indicates that you missed this step: justinnelsonsprojects.com/hyperion/step5.php Also, make sure you ALSO have a ground connection between the Pi and the LED strip -- otherwise it won't receive data at all. Finally, though you can get away without a level-shifter, it is mostly not recommended. Firstly, if you accidentally short one of the bare copper + pads to the data pad... that could send 5 volts to a 3.3v GPIO, thus most likely damaging the Pi. Second reason, is that at only 3.3v logic level into a 5-volt strip, interference can cause flickering and other odd behavior on the LEDs. At 3.3v, the "turn-on" state of the LED chip is *just* barely above the threshold. This can vary from one strip to the next but I wouldn't rely on it personally... Best of luck, I hope some of this helps!

@@JustinNelsonsProjects thanks, Nelson tomorrow i will give It a try

@@JustinNelsonsProjects Hi again Nelson, about led supply, I am supplying it with 5v 10A, not 3.3v. And pi with 5v 3.3A, not 3.3v, so i think if i configure ok the steps you mention i shouldnt have problems with led strip. The Led strip is a 60 leds per meter (5 meters =300 leds) type ws2812b, i have some of them working with ESP32, WLED and supplying them with 5v 8A without any problem. Now im working, but this afternoon ai try to fix it. Thank you so much!

@@LuisPeris one aspect that I think you're confusing, is the fact that even though you supply the Raspberry Pi with 5 volts, internally it converts it to 3.3 for its logic. So when you pull a gpio pin high, it is at 3.3 volt logic, not the 5 volts that the LED strip expects. That is where the differentiation comes in. I'm working on a video currently comparing different LED strips and actually controlling the logic level voltage, to show the minimum voltage that each strip considers to be "high"... In that video, I filmed a simple breadboard circuit with a potentiometer and a fluke meter to demonstrate at what voltage the LED strips stops responding to signals reliably. It is a common misconception because you do in fact power the pie with 5 volts, but the only reason for that is because it has to power USB ports. The actual Pi computer does in fact run at 3.3

If you already have one lying around... It's worth a shot. I can confirm that it works on the Pi Zero-W, but it's a bit slow (laggy response on the LEDs). But the Pi Zero 2 W runs it fantastically (note the 2 in the name). It looks like (I just googled the specs) the Pi 2 has more than enough processing power. And the nice thing about all raspberry pi computers is that they share the same 40 pin header, and are always fully backward/forward compatible 😀

@@JustinNelsonsProjects thanks Nelson! Then i wll use the rpi 2 model b and i will use your cable.

That is awesome to hear! I hadn't thought about doing like a long press or double click feature, but I have eight buttons on both my truck and my car so I'm not exactly short on buttons. But that's an awesome mod! If you could upload the code to Google drive or a Dropbox or something like that, and share with the community, I'm sure it would be appreciated 😀

@@JustinNelsonsProjects YT removes comments with an URL. This is fourth time I'm trying to add link to my project on arduino CC. So, you should know main domain and editor link, here is my unique portion of url, just append it after editor/. emanation/5b00c9ea-a580-4165-aafd-1cc96595b0f4/preview

@@konstantinpalkin2177 I'm going to work on adding a discussion forum on my website, where I will in fact allow inline video links as well as external links I didn't realize CZcams was so restricted about external links in comments, so I'm going to create an area just for my viewers and anyone who's implemented these projects to be able to share their experiences in video form... Give it a few weeks, I have a lot going on right now but look forward to that 😀