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Thank You very much for this video Art. I have watched it 3-4 times over the past few months i have recently rebuilt my 1962 A-5 lightweight Twenty and 1967 12ga Magnum. now I’m working on my 1976 Light Twelve.🙂👍

As a gun smith, this is intuitive for you... Show what it should look like with a close-up on the bevels for high-base and low-base. Go through it slow. Put a gun together in which the rings/springs are for the correct gun, and give us an idea of how much friction there should be.

I have a 1949 308 Winchester model 70 super..i don't know anything about it so i sold it the other day for $500. does anyone know if i made a good deal..

I’ve only just come across this video. I loved watching it, and I’m seriously impressed with your knowledge, skill and passion for browning shotguns. I do hope you’ve done the world a favour and passed on your skill base to some young blood that can keep your passion alive. I raise my glass to you sir 🥃

Can you date these for me please… 12 ga. 1G49414 20 ga. 6Z4438

Sad what they did to that heirloom.😢

My favorite part of this museum is they have some of the prototypes that JMB actually worked on and at least one of his personal shotguns. It's awe-inspiring to see the handmade serration cuts and other minor flaws, you realize he made it all with limited tools and mostly by hand. Then under the original firearm you see the modern productions and what was changed to make the firearms easier to mass produce. Some of the originals have features that were better but too expensive to produce on a mass scale. John was also a competitive shooter so looking at his personal shotgun and how it has a recoil and cheek pad along with some real gucci engravings that man was all about shooting. They also have an example of a wooden model he created, that's how he prototyped things. Made them out of wood then went to metal when he refined the design. It's such a cool but small museum for John Moses Browning. I was let down by the size and information provided, but if you look closely and study a bit before you go, you can learn a lot from what you can see.

The serial number for a Browning Auto-5 semi-automatic shotgun made between 1940 and 1946 is located on the side of the receiver. During this time, Remington produced the Auto-5, and the serial number may have the letters "ABC" to indicate the gauge of the gun. "A" stands for 16 gauge, "B" for 12 gauge, and "C" for 20 gauge.

Thanks for a very helpful video

It’s been a while since you did your last (i.e. this) video - i look forward to the next one.

Still teaching me things after all these years somtimes with tolerabces so tight on these you have to push a little more than usual to get dry fitment all the way tight together @4:33 my barrel was just a 32nd out (gapped) ....the ring that the little thumb switch lock between both halves was on hadn't seated all the way far enough into the wood ....both thumbs, either side of the barrel half and some Fonzarelli pressure moved it just that much and my threaded ring snugged up perfectly .....cant beleive I missed that.... but 1/32 is getting harder to see up close at my age.Now pin strikes eat any ammo and ejects work perfectly again ....saved me buying another striker piece and spring.....probably should have those on hand for eventual wear ....only $12 at Midwest for both in total. By the way for anyone wanting scope-like precision but don't have the barrel side drilled or the dove rails on the stock side ..... I recommend an underslung red laser on the barrel .... it stays out of the way of the iron sights and gives a little extra confirmation when your cheek weld is just right ....and for closer-than-fifty-yard varmint tuning ....say 30ft ....not 50yd.... the laser goes lower ( sight picture higher so you aim low enough) than the iron sights are capable of in that situation. Like I said this can give you fast response and confirmation or it can be your close range option while keeping the iron sights set out farther for plinking. I bought both red and green Wipboten lasers on Amazon but only use the red one . I pulled the plastic plug out of its interior and now can use rechargable 14250 batteries instead of one-and-done disposable LR44 button batts. ..... why they wouldn't tell you this is an option is beyond me ....if you are clever and consistent you might even be able to swap back and forth between red and green if you mount far enough back to unscrew and swap the front modules while the body and rear switch stay put. ....truly though red is all you need, far easier on the eyes and night vision when pesting.

This is really a very simple gun

What did you use to finish the receiver shown at the end? What grits of paper, etc. I’m redoing my old 1947 model 11 as we speak. Appreciate any info. Thanks!

I’m starting to look for an A5. Is there anything that would make one of these unusable? Parts broke or something unrepairable? Thanks!

Great video.

I hope those fellas are soaking up the knowledge. He has a backlog of work for years

The website isn’t working. I want to order one of these kits

I have one of these and can’t find the damn serial number

I have a problem a bit of weird one: I have a 1952 Belgium made Auto 5 a (light 12) and it had the 1 piece carrier,so i swapped it for a 2 piece carrier,but the problem is that the tilting/free moving piece part of the carrier doesnt go all the way down to the bolt and wenn i push the bolt release the carrier go,s just a bit further and the carrier sticks to the shell latch....Wenn i pull the bolt back a bit the carrier jumps back.. What causes this: Carrier spring or is the carrier slightly bend or is the locking block latch the problem?

Hello. Are you selling the kits for the 28 gauge yet? Thanks.

Mine has 1243 as a serial number auto five

There is one other difference between the magnums and the lights......the small spring longitudinally in the side of the barrel at the breech end. What is it for?

Many errors, and why not address the unmarked Sweet 16s, the lightweights?

Muy buen tutorial, es una información muy valiosa para nosotros los que nos gusta limpiar,, restaurar y arreglar armas..!! Muy buen documental muy bien explicado..!! Excelente video..!!

Este es un excelente tutorial al igual que la primera parte, ya van varias veces que veo este muy importante documenta, ya que contiene una muy valiosa información de como ajustar y desarmar el rifle .!! De hecho ya he desermado varios de ellos para limpiarlos y restaurarlos..!! Muchas gracias por compartir..!! Excelente video..!!

Were can you buy the rebuild kit spring . And will it work with the 48 skeet 12 gauge. Great video!

In 1970, Browning imported 3000 FN made Trombone rifles into the USA. Marked Morgan UT. You can find a serial number on the underneath side of the barrel. It will be W70 xxxx. A few of these were purchased and kept new in the box. I’m guessing they are currently worth $3-4000(new, unfired and unassembled). If a guy shoots a single bullet thru the barrel, the value would drop by half. Good luck finding one! I know for a fact, they exist!

My gunsmith is 82 years old excellent Craftsman old school rules

Spiegazione in iyaliano

What year would it be if there a r 1568

Art fantastic video. I will like to post a question, need to re blue the two barrels of my Browning Citori year made 1979. It has never being blue before. What will be the best method to do this job. Here in Costa Rica nobody offers the blueing service. Thanks for your time.

Dear friends, I own two Citori. Serial of hunting model is 05335RN153 and the trap one is 01030PX143. I live in Costa Rica here there is not a lot of options to find superb experts in Gunsmithing like you guys. I will like to blue the hunting model, build in 1979. My doubt is related to the solder. Can you give me a clue if in this model they use silver, tin or lead solder? This will determine which blue process I can choose. Thanks in advance.

My 1148 28 gauge was missing the friction piece, purchased your kit. The new bronze friction piece has one side beveled does the bevel face towards the reciever or go into the barrel ring?

So what's a 497506 lol??

Great post…thank you. From a like new L-108 inheritance. Been 40 years since I used it. Amazing.

Mine is A8862 I didn't see any with A prefix can you shed light on this?Thank you.

Very nice. As Info: You guys need to dump and stop using PayPal. I will not buy from you again until you have another method of payment as PayPal allows your email address to get out and you get inundated with spam. Love Art's Gun Shop though but you need to get modern.

This guy is AWESOME!!! Art could listen to you all day, keep the video’s coming and God bless.

My brother just bought me this for my birthday this year and after watching your video and looking on browning’s website. My auto 5 was made in 1907. I kinda don’t want to shoot it now on my annual dove hunt

This is a wealth of information! Thanks so much for this. I just picked up a 1976 SA-22 from an auction and it has been trashed. Missing parts are on the way! Thanks again!!!

I just emailed to ask a question. I have a Belgum Browning Sweet Sixteen but the Serial Number does not track. it begins with an X51xxx . I left off the final 3 numbers but included them in my email to your store from your site. Dealer said it was a 1948 Sweet Sixteen. appreciate any feedback you might have.

Just received mine. There is no prefix, no letter, just a number (31685) is it ok to say it's 1958 ?

I have a Type 1 1969 Belgium made Browning Bar 30-06, it has a almost identical engraving to the “Grade 2” shown in your video, but the engraving appears to be maybe thicker/bolder(?) than the shown model, the engraving also seems to be whitish/yellowish in color and is stamped “patent pending”. Is there anything significant about that or any upside/downside to this?

No puedo hacer ningún comentario porque NO ENTIENDO !!!NADA!!!

Great video. Mine is a 1954 thanks to you. :}

Art , any advice for a man that has the modern Miroku version of the gun. Failing to eject a spent case fully but is feeding the next round . Have replaced the ejector and spring and deep cleaned . Exact same issue . Been to two gunsmiths , to no avail . Any advice greatly appreciated .

As usual, you make it all so easy to understand. I’m currently shopping for a 11-48 or 48 in 16 gauge. Right out of the gate, I’ll order one of your kits and get things off to a good start.

Had to use an impact driver for 2 hours on an Spanish Mauser FR8 because the action screws were glued in. I still had to use the impact even when the screw was 1 revolution out so stubborn was the glue in the threads.

Tengo una 1903 pero se quebró una piesa del seguro

Thanks For this