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You cannot get this particular model anymore from Cabelas but they have similar models. You can get it through mail order in most states or at the Bass Pro Shops www.cabelas.com/shop/en/pedersoli-traditional-hawken-percussion-rifle The closest ones available today are the Muzzle Loaders Investarms Hawkens like this one and I thoroughly recommend it because it is a little nicer made than mine is muzzle-loaders.com/collections/all/products/investarm-bridger-hawken-rifle-54-cal-percussion-ia2114 Have fun and shoot safely!

The next build will be a flintlock and I will apply all of the lessons learned on this kit build. The instructions that came with it were pretty bad and the videos that I found were not sufficiently detailed, but I was able to find CZcams videos about the flintlock builds. The next build should be much better and will incorporate everything that I learned so far.

выстрелит возможно, но шлака от спичичной серы будет много.

@@superpuper1564 конечно меньше.

@@superpuper1564 сомневаюсь, силы спичичной серы недостаточно, хотяб с древесным углём и селитрой смешай.

I bought it on Amazon and it was called Stainless Steel Mini Cannon Handmade Elaborate Field Artillery Model by Yomeno that is only available on the UAE Amazon website now www.amazon.ae/Stainless-Cannon-Handmade-Elaborate-Artillery/dp/B097L3ZZH9 but Z-ONE also makes a deck cannon version that you can buy at Amazon and other places on line

@@oddrocket2743 thanks man :)

That's too bad. Can you buy fireworks in the UK and use the fuse from fireworks?

And with a perfekt bullet sice no patch ?? Just powder a cotton disc than the bullet ?

@@minicannons781 the most accurate smmoth bore shooting ive seen was powder then wadding then ball then cover wadding no actual patch.

@@thomasozminkowski2589ah ok. . in pedersolis skrew barel deringer ,,,riffled ,,,no patch posible

@@thomasozminkowski2589 revolvers no patch,,,but akurate 🙄up to 50meters ,,,,,,,,i think his sigts are moving every shot

Good thing to remember! Thank you!

Isn't the powder flask measure supposed to be used for measuring powder. Ball went in the barrel relatively easily - do I need a ball starter? I am still learning these things, but I did find out that pouring directly from the powder flask is dangerous, so I will not do that again.

You need to use a powder measure that is completely separate from any powder horn or flask to avoid possible explosion if there is an ember left in the barrel from the prior shot. If you use a patch around the ball, you will get better accuracy. Also, shooting a loose ball will cause the barrel to foul quicker. Be sure to use a lubed patch to help with loading and to keep the fouling soft. A short starter is very helpful to get a tight ball/patch on the way down. You'll get there, just be safe!

I actually have not had a chance to shoot it because I have been out of the country since I built it, but I plan to research it and shoot it when I get home again. Expect to see a video in around a month's time. I will document how things work.

@@oddrocket2743 thanks, you’re awsome. I don’t usually collect black powder firearms as they don’t always fit my interests but the simplicity of this piece is just genius. I almost feel that the Blunder Buss was a alternate idea to firing multiple rounds at a time (before it became the shotgun), rather than the added complexity of the machine gun, which wasn’t able to even be produced because of it. Would have cool if Americans used this weapon often for close quarter ambush’s against the British during the revolutionary war.

Thank you! That is good to know.

You are correct about the 10 yards. Also tried the pistol at 15 and 25m. The group is larger than the target black circle even when shooting from a rest. Using patches tightens the group, but anything past 15m is still off paper. I am in the Western U.S., but most of the ranges that I can shoot are either on military bases and graduated in meters. The there is a 10% difference between meters and yards. 10m = 11yards

And the pedersoli saloon cal 36 ??

​@@oddrocket2743are some muzzle loader pistols more acurate ?? The pedersoli saloon or zimmer in cal 36 or 4,5mm ??

@@minicannons781 I don't know since this is the only blackpowder pistol that I have shot. I am building a flint lock pistol, but I expect that to be even less accurate due to uneven ignition and long lock time.

@@oddrocket2743 ahh ,ok thank you ,,🤓👍🏼

Muzzle loaders are perfectly legal for anyone who is not a felon to own.

Very good point. Another person mentioned the same thing. Lesson learned so I can keep my fingers attached to my hand.

I have not been able to fire it because work has kept me too busy and the holidays have take up the rest of the time, but I plan to use cotton wads at first and also try to make some paper cups to hold the shot.

My Blunderbuss is a proper flintlock, the best wadding you can use is paper wasp nest, cut into discs the right caliber, back in the day they often just used a wad of tow,

I followed the instructions and dry fitted everything before LocTiting and screwing it down but there was no mention of that screw in either the paper or in what I found on Google. The instructions say to use 20 to 60 grains of FF or FFF powder. I used 20 grains of Pyrodex RS which is supposedly FF equivalent. Is there a reason that the flask is not good to measure with and what do you recommend for measuring in its place? I read on line that people historically used oversized bullets if they did not have paper cartridges and that you can use .454 to .458 balls in .45 caliber without a patch. Is this inaccurate and is the load of 20 grains of Pyrodex RS with a .458 bullet unsafe? What can I do to make it safer while still keeping it historically accurate? Sorry if some of the questions may seem stupid, but I am still learning. Thanks

A commenter talked about extracting the cap after firing and returning the hammer all the way down before reloading to prevent air from getting in to light any embers that may be in the pipe. Since I have not been doing muzzle loading for long, are there any other best practices that I need to be aware of?

You are correct. That small lip of wood can and does break. It's a known problem of the design. The easiest way to reinforce the area. Is to drill 1 or 2 small holes into the front edge of that lip lengthwise into the stock. Then epoxy small steel or brass rod even a small drill bit into the hole. This will eliminate breakage.

Ill do that. I got the flintlock version of this pistol.@@tedwright1380

You have to make one long loop which you then fold 4 times. Then you insert the spoon or the stick and you put a screw through on one side which you twist a little then keep tight. The head of the screw dug into the wood and kept it from twisting all of the way. The other side, I used a smooth rod so that I can twist it with a pair of Channel Lock pliers until I had enough tension, then I inserted a screw to keep it from unraveling. My Catapult vs Onager video shows some of this starting at 0:35 Hope this helps!

You are correct, but the flintlocks I tried were unreliable. It is also rifled, which is technology that was not around in the 1720's in pistols, but this is as close as I could get it while still keeping it reliable and easy to assemble.

Appreciate the tip. Did not think about it. That is a very good point about not feeding air to potential embers!

@@oddrocket2743 You're welcome. On another note, I've never tried to fire my Kentucky Pistol (.50 cal) with no patch. I know yours is a 45 cal, but what diameter ball did you use. I would like to try it for my .50 cal but all I have is .490" round ball, I'll probably need a little bigger ball.

@@deerslayer303B The balls I used are .454 and .457 which are actually meant for .44 caliber revolvers, but work for .45s because they are sufficiently oversized to stay tight when I push them down. I read that pirates in general did not use patches and just wanted to see if it would work. A similar sizing for a .50 caliber pistol would be a .508 or .510 caliber ball, but I can only find molds on line and no one that casts that caliber ball. I think my next pistol will be a .54 caliber percussion pistol so I can use the same balls as my rifle. If you are willing to cast your own balls, you can try the .510s or you can try the .520s which are made for .54s but I don't know how safe the pressure would be.