Video

I am not sure what you are asking...maybe 4 link conversion...if that is the case, I have few videos on it that should help.

You are so welcome! Thanks for watching!

Congrats on the reefs servo! As for your question, just to be on the safe side, I would reach out to Reefs and see what they advise. Good luck.

Mine is a little louder as well. It should be fine, but you can always dab a very thin layer of grease to see if that helps.

You're welcome!

I believe they do as far as I can recollect...it's been a while since I have worked on one. I think you will love the performance of either options.

Setting 5 lets you choose motor rotation on Quicrun Fusion SE, option 1 CCW & option 2 CW. You can download the manual here: cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0109/9702/files/Manual_HW-SMC319DUL_QUICRUN_Fusion_SE_20220722.pdf?v=1669157586

Glad it was helpful!

If you go Servo on Axle setup which is basically 4 link setup, the steering link length will differ slightly. For SOA setup, there is no more need for panhard. As for the 4th link, I was able to find an extra front upper link, so I ended up using that. Normally I would have just ordered a new set of front upper links from HardcoreRC if I wasn't able to source an extra front upper link.

Thanks for the info.

I am not sure offhand. The nice thing is that you can adjust it really quick so I would try it one way, and if it isn't the right way, re-set it for opposite. Sorry for the delay in response...been outside of the country for the last couple of weeks.

@@BigSungHobbies So basically what I meant was is it ok to have this motor rotating in any direction (cw or ccw) for forward and reverse rather than having to reverse the throttle on the transmitter??

Most folks use the throttle on the transmitter the same way, pull to forward, and push away for reverse, so I would adjust the motor rotation accordingly first. Hope that makes sense.

@@BigSungHobbies so it doesn’t do the motor any harm to be spinning in a certain direction??

@@Real_rescuer It does not, thus the option to set CCW or CW.

Yes, I am still around. I have been preoccupied with work and family for the past year. I am out of country at the moment, but I will be back in few weeks and hoping to resume filming again.

It is waterproof. I have submerged it few times. That being said it probably isn’t a good idea to submerge it all the time though…electronics and water is not a good combination;)

@@BigSungHobbies Great to know thanks for the info and reply!

Normally ESC is correct, but it is a combination of esc and receiver thus Traxxas calls it ecm.

They are brass wheel weights that can be easily found on Amazon that have been added for additional weight to the front end. Keep in mind that it does add rotational weight, but it's an easy way to get weight at axle level and to the front end.

I believe all the program card are the same, just with different stickers. You should be able to input the same parameters, but I would check the manual and compare.

@@BigSungHobbies Thank you Sir

I have used it this way for several years, and I have never ran into issues. The draw is pretty small that it does not seem to matter in my cases.

Most welcome!

At the time of the video, these were the only options.

From what I have read, it doesn't need it, but you can put very light coating if you feel more comfortable.

Thank you very much for the comment. Greatly appreciate it. The video was put together early last year. At that time, Vanquish offered only as a kit, so it was not included. The video was focused on RTR RC's. However, now that they are offering it, it should definitely be included now.

Yes, it was.

@@BigSungHobbies thanks what size pinion was you running

Unfortunately my friend no longer has the rig, so I am not able to verify it.

@@BigSungHobbies it cool thanks for the reply

Also where can I get those brass links made😂

Just cheapo brass wheel weights from Amazon.

It's my friend's rig, so I am not sure where he got them. I think someone locally was making them, but I am not sure. Sorry.

Thanks for the opinion.

I found a threaded link in my local hobby store and ended up going with that. In my early days, there weren't too many after market links that I was aware of not unlike these days. The length can vary between the 3d print mods, so it will take a bit of trial and error. Good luck.

Unfortunately the length will vary between the setup, so a bit of trial and error will be needed. Good luck.

Thanks for subbing! Greatly appreciate it.

This is when I had panhard mount setup. Unless you go for 4-link setup, this is what you will need.

@@BigSungHobbies thank you for the reply

Great choice. Hope you enjoy it as much as I do.

Going SOA is not about dropping the front end, but shifting the center of gravity to front end and lower it. That being said, one side benefit that I see is the slight increase in travel due to removing the bottoming effect of panhard mount. Give it a try. Once you go SOA setup, you won't go back ;)

@@BigSungHobbies the center of gravity is not as much of my concern as improving the front end suspensions function at lower ride height. I believe the stock setup with panhard mount applies lateral motion to the frame during suspension travel on top of limiting the bottom 1-3mm of travel. So servo on axle appears to have multiple benefits.

If you want performance out of your rig, then servo on axle is the way to go.

Happy to help

Glad it helped

Great to hear! They are meant to be enjoyed ;)

Hehe. Already have one, but this was done few years back before I had a 3d printer.

Glad to be of help!

Thanks for the summary. I have pinned it.

So far I have been very happy with Ruptures, but I have not tried the newer megalithics. Let me know how it goes.

Thank you so very much for the kind words.

They no longer sell the wired version, but you can pick up bluetooth version here: amzn.to/3V2gpak

Glad it helped

I don't believe they sell this version any longer. The new SE version which is 1800kv does not come with the programming card. Reach out to Hobbywing customer service and see what they say.

Glad I could help

At least for me, the 1st release of scx24 seem to come with orings. It's possible that it's not needed. I have mainly used Treal, but I heard good things on Injora as well.

@@BigSungHobbies I figured it out, on the jlu v3 at least there’s only one oring on the stock one towards the diff cover. I put one on each end and it was binding. I took the oring towards the driveshaft off and now it all seems good.

Does make me curious why though… I wonder if anything else is different, if I get diff covers will they not fit mainly. Guess I’ll just have to find out.

I don't have a definite answer. Sometimes it's worked without calibrating, and sometimes it hasn't. I am not sure why that happens. But normally I calibrate it just to be on the safe side.

@@BigSungHobbies okay thanks . It is normal when im ON the esc takes 1.5sec or 2sec before beeping the esc?

You are welcome! Glad it was helpful.

@amritbansal3948 Do you remember which body you used?

Thanks for the comment. Performance improvement was the top priority for this build, and not so much of scale factor.

Receivers do go bad...it has happened to me at least once. If you have an extra receiver, then I would try binding it to the transmitter. If it doesn't work, then the issue might be with the transmitter. If it does work, then more than likely the receiver went bad. To really find out if it's a bad receiver, I would try binding to another transmitter (if you have one, or borrow a friend's). That should confirm it for sure. Fortunately, receivers aren't too expensive.

The colors might have changed. Mine is over a year old already. Just check that it allows the right programming. If not, then I would suggest that you reach out to Hobbywing customer service.