Video

Looks awesome

You need your inlet low on the wall and your outlet high up where the warm air is.

Thank you for being direct and to the point.

Also move the intake across the room. So it moves more air around.

Do you have thermometer measurements at the inlet and outlet? Particularly after the system has run for a couple of hours?

Recommend 12in pipe for this.

Larger diameter pipe and a squirrel fan will move air better

You could have multiple pipes instead of just one 6 inch. Make sure you know where it's buried. :-)

There are a number of things that can be done to improve the efficiencies. Yes a longer pipe not a larger one, also gently sweeping arcs as opposed to long straight runs that hit 90s. In a long straight run you will have a boundary layer between the center flow and the wall of the pipe. Especially this ridged pipe which will have a turbulent layer of air. I would also question whether or not the midpoint of your loop should be lower than the rest to encourage any condensation that forms to drain away. This point could be placed to be accessible in a hole. This would allow you to ensure the water removal with visual inspections. There are some really good videos on greenhouse cultivation in winter climates using this exact type of loop for climate control.

Maybe put the intake and output on opposite sides of the building? Create some draw across the room?

How long did it last?

Looks awesome! Did you know by any chance how many bricks you use for it?

Ever heard of radon??

Have you considered a passive evaporation cooler. Low humidity, high heat.... The temperature deferential will drive the exchange....

I think if you moved your intake/suction side higher, perhaps 7ft high, your air into the house at 4ft high you may see better performance. Im thinking your are recycling your cool air rather than removing you hot air.

Maybe use hard PVC pipe that slopes with a drainage hole at the far end to drain any moisture accumulation. Im going to do this next summer to my off grid place. Really looking for the ultimate system.

I had a landscaper who did something similar to this years ago. He was also a tree man so he had a lot of extra wood chips. He dug a massive hole, 12x12x10, and filled it with the chips. He ran some pipes and a loop similar to what was done here. As the wood chips decomposed they generated heat. I forget how he pushed the air through the pipes, but he said he kept his shop warm throughout the winter. Never found out the end results years later, good or bad.

I’ve wondered what would happen if you took one of those 400 gallon totes, buried at the deepest point, as a kinda cold storage, with a good length intake and exhaust hose.

If you're gonna have to split the pipe anyway, would there be any benefit to going 8" - 10" underground and 6" coming in? Also maybe a slower fan? The idea being you would give the air more time underground.

Going to try and make this fireplace. What is the base dimensions and how tall is it? Great video!

Thank you for this.

How do you mitigate moisture accumulation in the pipes? Seems like it's going to create a mold factory in there.

Maybe more pipe in the ground is better 2,,300 foot.biger pipe,ok I'm trying to think there should be a way to clean the inside of it.easly. so.if you had a pipe you could crawl through, that's a big pipe,8 foot in ground 200 feet long.fans pushing air . easier to clean inspect.? accompanied by a swamp cooler on the other side of the building?

Thanks for this video. Good information!

Love the idea. I think if you used a 12” metal culvert you’d get better flow and cooling conduction.

you should have installed both intake and exhaust as high as possible

"Hotter than satans ass" 😅😂

If you do a true. geo thermal you have to dig alot deeper to and longer runs of pipe not larger diameter pipe

If you would insulated what pipe is above ground it will work more efficiently

Use a smaller diameter longer run smaller dematerialised , moresurface area for heat exchange

hotter than satans ass....lmao...that sounds pretty hot

How do you keep moisture from condensing in the pipes?

Build a insulated box around the pipe where it is piped into the cabin

I'm a HVAC veteran... I like the Pex tubing approach much better overall.. Less digging for each "Tonne" of cooling or heating capacity, use the glycol piped to a discarded A/C evaporator coil, it has its own condensate pan and drain. Use a filter, and no worries about dust, disease or water clogged underground piping... Save the condensate for watering plants, washing or purify it, for drinking, if yer really had core.... A lot more effort overall, though a lot of concerns licked at the same time.

This is excellent work and also for you to share the honest results of the project. 1) I would try insulating the "outgoing" black tube, just in case its picking up solar radiation and reducing the efficiency of the system. 2) Could you put a relay in the electronic control system so that it cycles off and on like a car's air conditioning unit? Have a good week !

like others have been saying and at 00:30 it has a glaring error here. because your dropping the temp of the air with the thermal mass of the ground and the angle of the pipe you will have water condensate and will have no where to go causing mold. you can dig up the pipe and put a t-join and some wire thin mesh and connect that into some gravel to keep the bugs out so you can have a water drain in the pipe. what the guy is trying to achieve is lowering the temp with the thermal conductivity of the ground but it just does not work as well as water. if you had a concrete pound that is under shade run the pipes under the water, even if the ground and the water is the same temp the waters higher conductivity means the heat transfer is faster and more efficient so you can cool more air faster with the same area of pipe. because the pipe would be underwater a drain would be impractical you would need a in pipe with a submersible pump to solve the issue of condensate.

Better to use a 1000 feet of water filled 1" tube looped about 20' down pumped throw a radiator and fan set up. Air is not the best heat exchange medium.

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Plant trees Install deep awnings Use insulated drapes in hottest times Don’t insulate basement or first floor floors - n leave door open too. It helps a bit too n u can escape down there where it’s 65* when it’s 90* on first floor at 8pm or 7am!

If hot air rises, why not have cool air vent low and return (hot air) high? If hot air molecules are bigger than cool ones and a thermocline, (layers of air of different temperatures), forms won’t a passive siphon effect result? Hot air is pushed into the return because of the expanding pressure caused by expanding molecules.

Is it possible to maybe do a follow up video with statistics? I was thinking of temp readings with the unit turned off and the openings covered versus when it is in full operation.

Exactly same idea I had 20 years ago. Un fortunately I was too lazy to testi it.

Good info brother. Noted.

I suggest a fan at both the intake and the exhaust. Muffin fans are horrible at moving air against any restriction at all. I’ve successfully cooled high power electronics using a fan at both intake and exhaust of an enclosed space.

Amazing! Thank you for sharing this follow-up video. I would suggest that you try a longer run pipes under-ground with one end into a small shelter from the elements, bugs, mosquitos, critters & snakes etc but ensure free flow of air and use charcoal or activated charcoal as filters in series with the air system when air is re-circulated back into your home. In your home you should consider a passive or active system to drawn hot air within the building to above the roof of the building & if done correctly you may not need an active exhaust air pumping to above the roof of the building. Keep in mind that the height of the small shelter where the intake air comes in should be much, much, much lower then the hot air vent above the roof of the building. In-fact you may consider using solar powered exhaust fans if you like. I would also suggest you consider some indoor pot plants & flowers to assist with filtering & fresh oxygen within your home. Greetings from Madang, Papua New Guinea!

Amazing! Thank you for sharingt this video. Greetings from Madang, Papua New Guinea!

I wonder if you can use a heat powered fan on the hot tin roof to pump the air through the pipes

Nice work and thanks for sharing. I've got this idea I am wondering about... In some off grid land i own in Central florida. The soil is white sugar sand and the water table is very high.. so high that I was able to dig a well by hand for washing, irrigation and making cement. I cleared a patch under the trees where I park a van I camp, sleep and work in. Florida is very hot and humid, but around midnight it seems to cool down a lot where I'm at because of our higher elevation and sandy soil. My living space in the van is tiny 3' x 6'x 5' and I just want to cool it down to where I'm not sweating really. I have a 7' x 12' hole I am planning to build a pond in 20' away. I have this untested idea of coiling some 6" drainage pipe under and around the pond and then backfilling before I line it.. then pulling air from under the trees, under and around the pond 100' and into my van intake fan. It wont be a closed loop system, but I figure the air will be a lot cooler than what my van pulls. Is 100' x6" enough to make a difference?

The reason for using some outside air is so you get fresh air. If you recirculate you will get bad air. And eventually make yourself sick. You MUST have fresh air.

Run a system of water through pipes buried in the ground. A pump to move the water slowly in an unpressurized system. On the inside of the home you have the pump pull the water to the top of a radiator like a large automotive one with a cap of course but no pressure. The water runs in and fills the tubes with cool water and a fan blowing on the radiator transfers the cooler air to the room while heating the water to go back through the system. This prevents the humidity issue and mold and bacteria issues. Be sure your water is safe so if it leaks below ground it won’t contaminate the ground. You might even be able to find water piping that is corrugated to increase surface area to help cool the water. I think that would be the safest way. Build a small one to proof out your layout and fix any bugs in the system you may find. I think pex tubing will do a great job. Easy to lay underground, they wont’ corrode and is safe. The pex tubing will last a real long time. You can get tubing in different sizes. Its like how folks use it to heat flooring. You could do it to cool the flooring too if you have an packed earth floor or concrete floor. If not run it through a radiator with a fan and that can be powered totally by solar. If the sun is out you can have a cooler home and if the sun is not out you don’t need it. Try a small system in a small space to test this. I know it works but you may not know it works. It works for heating and cooling. Just need enough pex tubing to make it work. For me we have standing water at 20ft down and moist water at 8ft. So if I go 8ft down I can have my tubing in contact with cooler moisture soaked soil. The length of tubing determines how cool the water gets. Remember heating wise, it is easier to warm a home from 50 degrees to 70 than it is to warm it from -20 to 70.