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Yes, unless fitted by the factory, you should keep the original size tyres, otherwise it can mess with your cruise control, traction control and ABS. I couldn't read you comment fully as a section just has a list of numbers. How long have you had the cruise problem? Does it coincide with the installation of the tyres?

@@MiracleMAX Hi, I bought the car about a month ago, with the malfunction and the wheels / tyres. I think the previous owner gave up on fixing it. The fault is totally repeatable... as soon as i speed up to 30klms an hour every time to cruise cancels. The rear is 245 / 35RZ19 and the front is 235 / 35 RZ 19. The rear wheels see like very deep dish so might have a fair offset. The rear tyres seem like they are stretched onto the rim as well so the rim may be too wide also.

@@lbackhausen1 Tyre size would be something I would consider. Can you borrow a set from a wreckers or do you know of someone with a similar car who you could borrow the wheels from? I guess you can't drive it on a hoist. Does yours have traction control and ABS? If so and you have it on a hoist, the ABS module will activate, just like shown in the video. Do you have a scan tool? Can you see if the wheel speeds are equal when driving?

Car hoist, no, but I have a foxwell scan tool, but ist only a cheap one (NT301) without SRS / abs module support😢. It does have traction control / ABS but I’m not getting any fail lights for either. I’ll have a look to see what live data the 301 can see

@@lbackhausen1 Yes, a code reader will only do emissions related faults.

Thanks for the heads up. I've not heard of them before. They look very similar to Partsouq. I'll put them in my favourites list and give them a go! 😉👍

Interesting 👍

Hey Eddy, I just ordered parts through the local pump supplier. Just look up Onga pumps in your local area.

Thanks for getting back to me. Cheers

Yes, I did try and source a loom, but most wreckers just cut them off or leave them with the engine. I would hate to think what genuine would be worth! It was mainly the injector section of the wiring, including cam and crank sensors, temp sensors, evap & turbo wastegate solenoids. A few repairs done at the PCM as well as at the fuse box. I do like a challenge 😁 Also it was a great feeling when it finally fired up. Very hard to say how long it took to do the entire job, including all the fuel related stuff, as it was an hour here and there. Just throwing a figure out there .....maybe 10 hours??? We now have a 4 cylinder (only running happily on 3 - low compression, which I can use to show a relative compression test) Colorado that we can use. We have been using it for over a year to do suspension, gearboxes, transfer case, clutches and brakes just by pushing it around the workshop. Now we have the added luxury of being able to run the engine to do all engine related diagnostics. Thanks for your comments. 😉👍

Yes, that is correct. That's why I explained the fault I had put in to show the students what voltage drop is. czcams.com/video/gX5djxG24oI/video.html Thanks for your comment 👍👍

Sorry, no

Hope it goes well

Have you checked all the fuses? Are there any fault codes? Is there power at the relay, but no switching?

200ml is not a large amount. Is the oil down at all or at the correct level? It should be safe to just add the 200ml

@@MiracleMAX Oil is at the correct leve, my hyundai creat has 3.8 L capacity and I filled exactly 3.8 recently.

In this case, I was using 'Dress making' pins, but you can use multimeter acupuncture probes.

Just search the code with Triton after it. (B1421 Triton) This is what you will find. mmc-manuals.ru/manuals/pajero_iv/online/Service_Manual/2018/52/html/M152401740046500ENG.HTM If you have no communications with the SRS module, have you checked for powers and grounds using the voltage drop method? Are all fuses OK?

@@MiracleMAX yes all fuses are good but I haven't checked power at the srs thats why I wanted the wiring diagram

@@aardvarkmotors7246 No worries, I hope those help. Let us know how you go.

This is called a fuel module, which includes the pump, filter, in some cases the pressure regulator and fuel sender unit. The filter should be replaced on a regular basis according to the manufacturer's requirements

Sounds like you were a busy guy! Thanks for the suggestions. It has been a while since I did the repair, but I think I just wedged screwdrivers between the housings and 'gently' tapped. You are right - being rusted, there were no shortcuts.

Well done!

I'm sure it is in the service information

I would imagine so as the angle sensor is crucial for the operation of the electronic assisted steering. What makes you think it is broken? What tests have you carried out? Do you have any fault codes to guide you?

The error code is c 1261, so I think the error is there and I live in Turkey, they want 500 dollars for the repair here🤣

Thank you for your reply by the way.

@@ASEL3636 C1261-Steering angle sensor (SAS) not calibrated. It would be worth just recalibrating the sensor to start with. Have you had any steering repairs done recently? Wheel alignment? Hit any curbs? Did the steering assist stop working after any particular event?

After writing to you, I reset it with OBD2 and the problem was solved. Yes, I changed the ball joints, I think that was the reason, thank you for your information.

Actually it's Digitor Q1585 from Dick Smith. Unfortunately, it is no longer available. I have 4 of them, one still in it's case........just in case. It's not an obsession, it's just so the other 24 multimeters don't get jealous! 😁🤣

@@MiracleMAX You are 100% correct. My meter is a Digitor Q1585 have had it so long forgot where it was purchased and like you as an electrical tradesperson have a lot of meters including fluke and Brymen and many others, but no super cheap meters as safety and reliability is important

@@colinreid7305 I use a range to show my students what is available.............but also, just coz I like multimeters! 🤣😎

Sorry, I can't see your previous comments.When you press either the master switch or door switch, do you have power and ground to the window motor? Have you checked for voltage drops on both the voltage and ground circuits? Can you apply power from a battery to the motor to get it to go up and down? If you can raise and lower the window (change polarity of connections to change motor direction) with an independant battery, these have power supplied from the master switch, so that might be an issue. You need to do all the testing I suggested first.

@@MiracleMAX Thank you so much for your response. I would really appreciate if you can share what equipment will be required to voltage drops etc ? As I don't have much experience, more details(if possible any video) will help me a lot.

@@manishsurjan5733 Here is a video that should help you carry out a voltage drop test. czcams.com/video/gX5djxG24oI/video.html Do you have a multimeter & are you confident using it? There are 4 videos in this series that should help you. czcams.com/video/ldM2FdjfPRE/video.html

@@MiracleMAX Thank you sharing the details. I think I need to get this checked with expert as unable to understand much on this. I am based in Northwest Sydney, Can we connect and I can get your help , I can come to your garage . Thank you

@@manishsurjan5733 You can contact me at miraclemax3@hotmail.com

Do you have voltage and ground readings at the pump connection? Can you hear the pump buzzing when you turn the key on or crank the engine? If so, is it possible that you could have left off a hose in the module itself or damaged an o'ring inside the module? Have you primed the fuel pump?

@@MiracleMAX which one is the module?

@@MiracleMAX yes, I can hear the pump buzzing

@MiracleMAX there's fuel supply runing through the hose.

@@MaryanneGumai-vp5py The module is the entire unit - pump, filter & sender unit. The unit you pulled out of the tank to replace the filter. I suggest that you may have left off a hose or pinched it or possible left out an o'ring off the module inside the tank. I gather you have no fuel coming out of the tank outlet with the hose disconnected? You will need to attach a hose onto that outlet into a waste container to do that test safely.

Ah, if only time would allow ☹️

Glad to hear that!

Make sure you buy the locking ring before you start. It will save you a lot of heartache. Hope it goes well for you.

😂 yep, I was wrong.

Ah, the beauty of watching the full video! 😉😁 Thanks for your reply. I hope you got some use from the video

I have a few VZ videos on the channel with more complex ones coming.

I believe the correct acronym for Jeep is Just Empty Every Pocket!

Go for it. Take photos and take it slowly & you should be right!

You are welcome. I hope the video helped. 👍

That's unusual! Did you remove the steering column or do it in the vehicle? Did you remove any connectors with the ignition turned on? Have you tried disconnecting the battery if you don't have a scan tool? That might help reset some values. What lights on the dash are on? Does the power steering work and have you driven it for an extended road test?

Yeah driven over 50 miles and lights on, the eps and esp off lights are on. Tried everything you've done in video other that the obd reader, followed everything you did, ignition was off the whole time. But at least your video help me sort the clunking from the busted cog

@@wipeout1978 You may need to do a steering angle reset. An OBD2 reader is not capable of that. A scan tool will need to be used. Hope you get it sorted. 👍

Thanks mate 😉

You are right. Not the easiest engine I have ever worked on. Even doing the valve clearances are a bit of pain. czcams.com/video/FGqv-qRLkuA/video.html

@@MiracleMAX thanks for the link.

So glad they honoured the warranty. Just out of curiosity, what did the block look like? I could imagine, but haven't actually seen one after the repair.

@@MiracleMAX you can see the machine marks in the block face fine but enough to catch your fingernail in it, new one smooth as ,they weren't keen on showing me but i carried on like a pork chop and wouldn't let me take a photo, but as soon as i saw it i was on to MMAL direct I'm a machinist by trade and i knew straight away it was the issue mine was one of the first in Australia to be diagnosed , it was a 6 month ordeal to get them to pull the motor apart i only had 20 000km on it and then i had no car while they sourced a new engine, that took another 4 months they ended up hiring me a car, very stressful, but it's got 255000 km now i would have got rid of it but i was locked into a lease bought the car new (2012)now I'm just running till it dies it's been ok since, your description is spot on the cylinder walls are only a few mm between cylinders the block face cannot have even a scratch to seal correctly

@@martinguybuhler That's a great explanation Martin. I really appreciate you sharing your experience with us. That's great you could look at it through a machinists eyes. I'm so glad you were able to get it sorted in the end. Everyone that has commented has had a similar experience with the stress, but also generally a good outcome. Once again, thanks for sharing. 😊👍

Great to hear you are in the trade! There is a massive skills shortage & has been for decades. The main attraction to the mines is the money. Heavy vehicle & Plant are paid more without a doubt. I have been in Light Vehicle for well over 54 years & love it. It has to be a passion and not just a job otherwise there are plenty other higher paying jobs. You can finish your Plant apprenticeship and then do a linking course into Light if you wish, that way you will have dual certificates. Make sure you go to a general workshop, not a dealership to gain the best experience. There are plenty of TAT (The Automotive Technician) workshops out there with very high standards, who focus on training and retaining their staff. www.tat.net.au/ Each section of the trade has it's good and bad points and now with EV, Hybrid, EVFC & Hydrogen we are now starting on another exciting learning path. Let us know what you decide and how you go. 👍😉

Nissan must like tormenting us. The Pulsar is even worse I reckon! 🤔

You are welcome

You are welcome.

Had it been thrown away? Did it work before you replaced the battery? When you put it on charge, do you see the charge symbol? Can you recheck the battery connection?

@@MiracleMAX it worked 7 months ago and i got a new phone so i just put it away in my drawer and it doesn't show the symbol for charging😓

@@a1eksandarp3sic41 You may need to check your battery connection & make sure your charging port is not full of dust. Also make sure you hold your phone start button for an extended period of time, perhaps 15 seconds or so.

That's up to Mitsubishi. If it fails due to the common overheating fault, I have found them to be quite helpful trying to remedy the issue. The later models do not have the 4D56 engines & did not have the same problems.

Well done on your successful repair. Those locking rings can be a real pain, so you did very well 👍

Kind words. Thank you 👍

Thanks! I try to respond to each comment that is made. Hopefully you got some use out of the video 😉

@@MiracleMAX Currently driving a 2010 L200 in the Scottish Highlands.... This video is similar to watching plane crashes the day before you fly 🤣. Makes me nervous. Thank you for the information in the video 👍

@@trigtrigger9794 Don't panic my Scottish friend! I have seen plenty of Triton/L200s last a long time when serviced correctly & regularly. There was only a certain amount of failed ones...... hopefully not yours though! 😊 Check out other Triton videos on the channel. Thanks for your comment. Here at the moment in Oz it feels like a Scottish summer......lots of rain & flooding 😂

@@MiracleMAX You will still be warmer than us 😁. We are approaching summer and having fresh snow on the mountains! 2.C ground level. Ironically I am sitting at work with 3 bearded dragons from your way.. 09:20 am here. I need to find out which models had over heating issues, I will have a look around on your channel. EGR is deleted but need to do catch can ..

I agree. This guy has been going strong for well over a year now with no issues, so I guess the little IC must be used to those temperatures. Still pretty high though I thought.....

No worries, thanks for your comment 😉👍

Good job. Yes, some have found it easier to remove the entire steering column. Did you do any resets - steering angle? Let us know how you go! 😉

@@MiracleMAX I scanned it today and it was the usual low voltage for the airbags and Steering angle relearn needed doing. I've read on TaT website that these can have wiring issues if you don't disconnect all that associated wiring. Cheers

@@MrConspark Have you carried out the steering angle relearn?

You will need to calibrate your injectors when you install them using the appropriate scan tool. What fault codes do you have with the check engine light on?

@@MiracleMAX the code is: adjust injection quantity. Do you mean calibrate it is code it or reprogram it by new code number of new injector?

@@muhannadalamri3521 Do you have the actual fault code number? Have you carried out injector coding? Did you take a note of the codes on the injectors before installation?czcams.com/video/iCK3REQ-yzg/video.html&ab_channel=MiracleMAX

No you can not. They are paper based. They are relatively cheap for the protection they provide.

Yes, it was the BiTDI 2.0L engine

Thank you for your positive comment. I also made it a lot easier for the camera to be in position. You are correct though, the steering wheel did not need to come off to do that job.

There shouldn't be any noises. Sounds like you might have something misaligned. Can you hear the noise at the steering motor?

You are welcome! 😉

That's why I started this channel - to help others with what I have learned over the years.