Diagnosing A Dying D MAX
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- čas přidán 6. 07. 2024
- This poor D-Max is feeling pretty sick, in fact, I think it’s dying! It has been looked at by another workshop with no improvement in the condition, only a big hole in the customers’ wallet.
What could be wrong with this vehicle & can we save it?
#isuzudmax#automotivediagnostics#automotiverepair
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Disclaimer:
MiracleMAX wants you to be safe, however, no guarantee can be given against improper use or unauthorised modifications on the information provided. The repair shown in this video is carried out at your own risk and any property damage or injury is your own responsibility. Please ensure you carry out this repair safely using approved safe work practices, correct use of recommended tools and equipment. This video is educational only and is no guarantee of a result if done incorrectly. Any injury, damage or loss due to incorrect use of tools, information or equipment is the sole responsibility of the person carrying out the repair and not MiracleMAX.
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In depth diagnostics save customer money, sadly some people simply throw parts at the problem.
Back in the day DPA and Inline Pumps were what apprentices trained on, now common rail is the go for many reasons but can lead some to miss diagnose issues.
You are right Colin. Some may consider careful diagnosis a waste of time, but when compared to loading up the parts cannon, it is actually cheaper and helps you become a better technician. Remember, this vehicle had $800 spent on it without a clue of a correct diagnosis before it came to our workshop. Vehicles are becoming more complex and therefore require trained techs to reach a successful outcome.
That turbo is making the infamous siren noise that the 17-20 year model dmax suffer from. That’ll be the next thing to go wrong. Usually starts with a turbo over boost code and limp mode.
As I stated to a another viewer, this first time customer just wanted to get rid of the engine miss. He had been bitten by another workshop which charged him $800 and made absolutely no difference to the running of the engine and didn't even give him an invoice! I did hear the turbo noise & notified the customer, but I think it will have to explode before it gets repaired...
Hi Max, great work, great content 🙌👏👏
Glad you think so!
Good job man
Thank you
good video Max.
some points to add.
code injectors before fitting. with Denso injectors for DMax there is 3 different part numbers that look the same. This should be done with any CRD injectors to save the Heart ache of incorrectly supplied or purchased.
also have a look in the inlet of the old injectors to see any visible contamination. you would be surprised what I find before bench testing. If it's in the injector filter it's been through the pump, rail and lines, then back through the return line.
hopefully you checked and replaced the fuel filter.
Great advice & well noted. Filter was replaced.
Thanks for your comment 👍
Thorough and well explained. Thx for the video. HNY.
Thanks Nigel 😉
Hey Max, great diagnostic insight, particularly relevant to me as I'm considering buying a new D'max with the "gen 2 4JJ - engine" the 4JJ3, I'm thinking the later engine uses Piezo injectors? perhaps?.
Using the Oscilloscope peeks and troughs to assess compression on the volts and Amp draw of the starter - now that I have never seen in 50yr's of working in the auto industry, very very clever method.
One thing - you had me screaming - Noooo! is disconnecting the injector whilst running - for fear of it staying open but perhaps that's only applicable to the later Piezo style injectors? love to know your thoughts on that?.
Cheers from the Illawarra.
Glenn.
Yes Glen, these are solenoid style injectors.
The solenoid pulls the injector open and a spring closes the pintle. Therefore, without a closed circuit, it is naturally in the closed position.
The piezo injectors can run voltages as high as 160 volts, which use capacitors storing voltage from the previous injectors' back EMF. I certainly wouldn't have done that with piezo injectors. Not only do you risk injury to yourself, but also possible damage to the PCM.
Thanks for your comment. 😉😉
I am really glad someone who works on D-Max thank you for sharing. Do you know who to get wiring diagram for the D-max ?
I use AutoData & Haynes. However, you could try Carmin
play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.min.car&hl=en_ZA&pli=1
@@MiracleMAX thanks for your help
Hey max i have a dmax 2015, its got rattling/knocking noise only when fully warmed up no sound when cold for about 20mins . I took it to a reputed shop and paid a hefty amount diagnosed and replaced injectors and still same . Got them to do vavlve adjustment all cams and lifters look good , too but still same noise . Almost sounds like fuel knock , bit lost before i start stripping it off what could it be . Noise is closer to no4 cylinder exhaust cam side
OK, so here are a few questions to consider.
Can you hear the noise more at the top of the engine or the bottom?
If you use a scan tool, can you isolate the noise by cutting individual cylinders? Can you do a thermal check like shown in the video? Can you carry out a compression test? Is it running smoothly? Are all the injector washers installed correctly? Has it been serviced regularly? Are there any metal deposits in the engine oil? Does the knock change when you accelerate hard & then change when decelerating?
I have seen these fail with big end and main bearing issues.
Let us know what you find 😉🤔
@MiracleMAX noise is from the top from exhaust cam side , used the stethoscope and more audible on no 4 cylinder exhaust side . I did Compression test its 400psi on all 4, it doesn't run rough at all , good service history, no metal in oil I removed sump to check pickup it looks good , it runs smooth and noise sort of goes away when you accelerate hard (maybe less audible with all extra the engine noise) , one things is it has like a lumpy cam noise so to speak on deceleration only ( again only when it's warmed up) , not sure should I pull the head off and check valve seats and lifters or just turn the music up and carry on driving lol
@@bornfreep It's not a leaky exhaust manifold at the head near #4?
At 200,000k surely the soot buildup in the inlet would be choking the engine. Or does the 3.0 Isuzu engine not suffer from this problem?
No doubt it would. This was the first time I saw this vehicle. The customer had limited funds and is not part of my normal customer base. If he was a regular customer, I would recommend correct service intervals & intake cleans on a scheduled basis. That being said, he just wanted to get rid of the missing cylinder. Who knows if I will ever see the vehicle again.
Thanks for your comment.
When you have the engine running, the volume is too high. Just wanted to let you know.👍
Probably me trying to yell over the sound of the engine.
Thanks for your comment
@@MiracleMAX Thanks. I didn't want to offend you.
@@Nick41622 Not at all! Sometimes it's hard to adjust the end result & get all the volumes equal
Uhhh... switching no 1 and 4 without re-coding "can cause rough idle etc etc..." 🤔
Fair comment. But in this case it proved that #4 injector was at fault. The fault moved to #1. Keep in mind, this was only done for testing purposes, but I understand what you have said.
@@MiracleMAX Agreed. It was far too dramatic to be a calibration issue.
No way to clean them?
The more I look at diesels the more I think they offer false economy and false longevity. Injectors, turbos, oil change intervals, dpf blockages, higher purchase price. FFS!
I prefer a Hilux carburettor 2.2 4Y with points. Simple. Cheap. Effective.
And I would but a new one tomorrow!
@@seanhammon6639 The common rail injectors require specialised equipment for testing as well as cleaning. Generally for light vehicle applications, it is easier, more reliable & cost effective to replace them. They are totally different from the old school injectors. These were a solenoid style of injectors, whereas others use a Piezo style. Yes, they are becoming more complex with their own set of issues.