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Thank you!

Thanks a lot for the kind comment :) Yes, it's printed - I got it from thingiverse a while ago. I'm pretty sure it's this one: www.thingiverse.com/thing:5258892/files

@@nixmakes thank you so much! :)

xTool D1 (10W) using 100mm/s @ 60% power & 0.1mm line interval. These settings are probably a good place to start, but different notebooks / designs will require different settings. I hope it helps :)

For several reasons. Mostly because you can't spray paint inside the house. By the way, this takes like 10 seconds per glass and is easier to clean compared to spray paint. The only difference is that you have to plan ahead :) Spray paint is also a great option. Thanks for stopping by :)

I think it was teak oil, but it really doesn't make that much of a difference. I've been using candle wax recently, and I like that more than oil. By the way, I added an update to the instructable with an important area that you should sand before assembly. It's not mandatory but very helpful. I can't update the video, but check out the update in section 5 over there.

It's all available in the instructable, but if you're having trouble let me know (notice that the files already include a kerf offset, so don't add any more in lightburn! if you need a file without kerf correction, let me know).

Hi, I'm using Lightburn to control my laser. The camera is actually connected to my laptop, not the D1, and Lightburn controls both. Lightburn let's you calibrate and use any USB camera (and other connections too). Wide-angle cameras are best because they can capture all of the workspace at once (I bought one from AliExpress for $17 and it works great). Lightburn has a great toturial on how to pick the right camera, and how to connect, align and calibrate it. I hope my answer helps, but if not, feel free to contact me via my website. Nir

@@nixmakes thanks for your time and information 👍

Thanks for your comment :)

We call it Guache paint here. It's basically a kids-safe, water based paint that washes easily. Hope it helps!

awesome!:)

Sounds like you used kerf within lightburn in addition to the kerf I already included in the files. Could that be the case? If you don't think that's the problem, contact me via my website and we'll get it sorted :)

@@nixmakes I don’t have Lightburn. Just downloaded it to xtool Creative Space. I’ll download again. I have a Xtool D1 also

I just made it using 3mm files. Made No changes to your file as you said it includes kerning. Too tight. Will have to do a lot of hand filing to get it to work.

@@kathynewey156 Hi, thanks for the comment! Would a file without kerf be helpful? Sorry it didn't fit right from the start! Since publishing this video I heard several people having problem with the kerf, so I've been sharing files without a kerf offset ever since. Let me know if I can help :)

Or is it me being a beginner. Maybe there is something automatically happening in Lightburn. I just imported the file, checked the cut speed and set it going.

Do you mean a higher concentraion of dye? I did, it didn't change the diffusion pattern at all, it just rescaled the intensity.

Oh! It seems like the product is still there, but the link is broken. I fixed it, but if you don't want my affiliate link (which is fine! but it's the one I tested), you can just look for similar items on AliExpress. Hope it helps! s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DE3SjKV By the way, I ordered valves from 3 different sellers but 2 of them slowly leaked (AliExpress...). That's something to consider maybe :)

Sure! Someone commented in my instructable suggesting the use for a bluetooth remote. It's a good idea but you'd have to make sure it doesn't run out of battery during long prints (maybe add a power source?). Here's a link to the instructable, see the "I Made It" section at the bottom. www.instructables.com/Repurpose-Old-Earphones-to-Capture-3D-Printing-Tim/ Hope it helps!

Glad you liked it! :) Thanks for the kind feedback

I use OnShape, which is a free browser-based CAD software, but the concepts are similar in many other software as well (Fusion 360 is a nice alternative if you have a PC that can handle it)

Thanks for the kind feedback! I'm glad you found my video useful :)

Hi, sorry but apparently cubee stopped their services! It was a nice idea where you get people close to you to print for you, but they stopped that service.. I guess it didn't work out. I'll remove the links now, thanks for letting me know. Instead, you can find someone on facebook or someone you know with a resin printer to print the STL files for you. If you need help, contact me via my website. I can probably send you one.

i have a printer, just need the file @@nixmakes

Thanks for the question. Actually, I made a model using OnShape, but then I found boxes.py and used it instead. Boxes.py does not create a 3D model at all. It's 100% 2D. I hope that helps :)

Awesome:) I'm really glad this propagates to more students!

Hi :) Lots of people showed me their version, so it should work! The most common problem is people setting a kerf offset in lightburn as well as in the files I shared (or in boxes.py). Feel free to contact me via my website with pictures and I'll do my best to help! Nir

Thanks :) There is a lot more information about the experiment in my instructables.com article (in the description). In short, the dye I used is mostly green, so I took the green channel of the RBG (red, blue, green) video I captured and measured the intensity (brightness) along a line. In the instructables article I described 3 different methods to do this, so feel free to pick any one of them, and let me know if you need more help! p.s., a much easier experiment would be to inject some dye in 1-2% agarose gel (or other water-based gel like Jell-o / gelatin). For example, you could put some dye in the center of a petri dish. The reason that would be a better idea is because diffusion of small molecules is uninterrupted by the gel matrix at these gel concentrations, but there are no large-scale streams due to convection (which are especially hard to avoid when trying to vary the temperature). Good luck!

It really depends:) I'm using a 10w diode laser, so I can cut through 0 to 10mm wood. I use 3mm or less whenever I make something that's supposed to be gentle (like my roll top pencil case, vases and such). 6mm is a lot bulkier, so it's bad for gentle things but great for rigidity. I hope that'll get you started:) feel free to leave more comments

Thank you! :)

I really like birch or poplar wood, but it's going to work well with most types of wood :) most wood can flex much more than needed for this project. You can run a flex test first, but it's pretty similar to the part itself, so I'd just try and see!

I'm really glad it was helpful! Thanks for stopping by :)

thanks! :)

Thanks for stopping by and for the kind comment :)

Hi :) Thanks a lot for taking the time to comment. When editing my videos I end up watching them over and over, and I do have a clear tendency to make them shorter and shorter. Over time, I get the feeling that they're actually too slow! You're absolutely right about your comment, and I'll do my best to fix that in my next videos. A couple of things I can try to do to help today: 1) There's a link to an instructable.com article with additional details (link in the description and here www.instructables.com/How-to-Design-for-Laser-Cutting-Free-Files/) 2) I'll be happy to answer any questions if you have any. Again, you're 100% percent right in your comment, and thanks for caring enough to post a comment, I appreciate it :) Nir p.s., do you think I should make more tutorials about how to use CAD to design for laser cutting? This was meant to be just one in a series of videos (which will hopefully have a slower pace 😂)

Hi, I don't do this to make a profit, so the short answer is no :) but if can't make your own, you're welcome to contact me through my website and we'll work something out - either I send it to you at minimal cost (again, I do not want to make a profit from hobby!) or give you the contact info of people who asked me to sell it.

Thanks Martina, that's what I was going for! It really is doable, I promise :)

Are you using LightBurn? If so, you can use the slot & tab resizer. If you're having trouble, feel free to contact me via my website with what you need and I'll help (I could make files for a different thickness if it helps, but LightBurn has a great solution for that, so it's worth trying!)

That's a really good idea! Maybe keep one of the top corners square instead of rounded corners like I use, so that they can store it standing up?

@@nixmakes I don't know how much stability that would have.🤷‍♂ I was thinking a shelf with holes for the shot glasses. Maybe 2 tabs on either side to hold it. You could put the Jack Daniel's or Jim Beam logo on the side. OK, I'm gonna make one of these. 😁

@@jakerazmataz852 you meant using the roll top box just for packaging purposes? that's so much effort, nice of you! about the shelf with holes that sounds awesome 😎if you make one, I'd love to see it! you gave me an idea to make some sort of a a peg board for the kitchen (just thinking out load here). I can't think of a reason why my kitchen shouldn't look more like my workshop with tools ready for work 🙃

@@nixmakes No. Use it to store the shot glasses. I thought if you wanted to make it really fancy, you could cover the "self" with green or red felt. The glasses would fit nice and snug. I only got my laser a few months ago and everywhere I look I see inspiration. A workshop stye kitchen would be great. I don't know if they have industrial look apts. in Israel. That's where a commercial bld. is turned into apts. The ceiling is open and you can see the ductwork and plumbing. It's painted. I like it.🤷‍♂

@@jakerazmataz852 I know what you mean, I wish I had time to make all the stuff I want to :) We don't have those commercial buildings here, but I've seen it abroad. Maybe I'll talk my wife into building our home that way 😉

I replied to your other comment :) If you need anything else, you know how to find me!

Thanks for the kind words Toby :) You're absolutely right about how to approach diffusion in class. I think it's also important that they see that diffusion starts pretty fast (on short distances) and then slows down. That's important for biology for example, that's why cells have to be small! Also, for your experiment - using a gel medium will probably be the easiest way to do it (agar, or gelatin will work, these are called hydrogels). Gels have a much higher success rate (which is great when you have audience). Regarding Brownian motion - there's an undergraduate experiment in our university about Brownian motion of particles you can actually see (using a microscope). It based on a paper you can find online titled "The time, size, viscosity, and temperature dependence of the Brownian motion of polystyrene microspheres". So, if you want to show Brownian motion directly, maybe using a USB microscope could work? Feel free to contact me here (or through my website nirlivne.com) if you think I can do anything else to help! I'll be happy to :)

😂 The mean comments are pretty old, but still, I was shocked at first too. Some guy is selling a product similar to the one I shared (for a lot of money), and I guess they got mad I was sharing my design for free (they're like a gang from a Facebook group or something). I saw many designs before making this one (his too, which is nearly identical to other ones designed for different lasers). I couldn't find anything perfect for me, so I made my version. I don't claim to work in vacuum, that'd be insane - why not see what's out there? If I saw something that I really liked, I'd just use it. I wouldn't bother making a video about it either (and waste anyone's time). I make $0 for posting my projects online, yet for some reason some people still think I owe them something? Anyways, thanks for stopping by :)

I'm not sure I understand the question, so let me know if this doesn't answer what you had in mind: To create this design I used boxes.py, it's a useful python package with a few writers working on it (mainly Florian Festi). Florian made a website to allow people to make boxes online without any coding needed, but when you set the parameters for your box it defines the parameters to be used by the python functions behind the scene. Basically, you can think of simple math rules to create boxes and jointing, and then users can play with the different parameters to make whatever they like. I hope that made sense :)

Sounds like a good idea. I figured it would be hard to remove the paint since the spray paints I know are not water-washable. What paint do you use? Would you need two layers in that case as well? From my experience, a thin layer of paint doesn't have enough meat for the laser to burn, so it doesn't engrave the glass as well. That's why I'm using two layers

@nixmakes the paint I use is barbecue/grill paint, one well done layer worked great. Wipe down with acetone after and it cleans right up!

@@CrisAnderson27 Nice, my workshop is inside the house (we live in the city), so I didn't want to use spray or chemicals, but my laser enclosure is practically a fume hood, so maybe I'll try it in there. Thanks for the comments :) Glad to learn something new!

​@@CrisAnderson27that paint is typically flat black and high temperature right? I have some flat black, semi-gloss black, and semi gloss grey. All are rated for 1200 degrees (I'm assuming 1200F). I imagine flat black is best since it would absorb the most energy

@@nixmakes I use just the cheapest flat black spay from walmart. takes a few coats to get it thick enough to engrave but does a great job quickly. and easy to scrape off with a razor.

Thanks :) The shutter is probably rubbing against the sides, so I'd say it's one of 3 things: 1) some sanding is needed. 2) some wax / oil would fix it (easiest fix). 3) maybe the plywood you're using is a bit curved, and it pushes against the shutter? I had a box making funny sounds too, and I fixed it with some sanding and wax. Hope that helps! let me know if you need anything else :)