How to service your engine. Honda SP1 service and upgrade project part 4. RC51. Valve clearance. Oil
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- čas přidán 28. 01. 2024
- SP1 upgrade and service guide part 4.
It's time to give the engine on the SP1 some attention, so Dave is delving into valve clearances as well as changing all the fluids.
Keep watching to see all the details for Dave's servicing and upgrades.
obsessionengineering.co.uk/ - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Nice dig on the Desmo belt drive replacement timing!
If you ever fancy cleaning out that expansion bottle... Use some rice, some fairy liquid and some hot water. You'll know you have the mix right when it sounds like you're playing the maracas!! I was dubious at first but it worked wonders on my ZX6R bottle 👍 The rice does the "internal scrubbing", with the fairy acting as the cleaning agent. When done, just rinse it all out with clean water.
The best thing about gear driven cams is, without a doubt, that sweet whine 😀
I could listen to you all day Dave fantastic. 🤙
Informative and surprisingly therapeutic Dave !
Fantastic Dave! SP-1 coming along swimmingly 🤟 Waiting on your rear shock magic!
Unless you have a really weak grip you definitely do not need to tighten the filter anymore than by hand. I have been a mechanic for over 20 years and have probably done a thousand oil changes in that time. I've never had a filter come off that was put on hand tight.
Some manufacturers say hand tight then a quarter turn.
@@Vtwin_Superbikes yeah I know but my 20 years of experience says that hand tight is good enough. My dad was a mechanic in the Air Force in Korea and then owned his own automotive repair shop for almost 50 years. He also only ever hand tightened filters. No issues
Thanks, very helpful because these are exactly the next steps, I am going to make with my SP1. Keep the vid's coming!
THANK YOU. KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK
Thank you Dave for another great episode I will be doing all of this soon as well lol hope all is well from sunny California!
Sir, this is brilliant. I've bought an sp1 end of last year en when the wheater gets better, I was planning to do the exact same works on it. Thanks for the video!
I’m quite new to your channel and I’ve enjoyed watching all your vids. I’m currently giving my 1999 cbr600fx a right going over and getting some great tips from yourself. Keep them coming 👍
Thanks, and good luck with the spanners
This whole series is coming in the right time, finally got my garage rebuild and going to maintain my bike myself from now on (tuono v4r) very informative stuff as usual.
Excellent bike, love my tuono
@@obsession_engineering got an older lady tho, 2011 bumblebee yellow. Newer models are just freakin expensive. Traded in my mt09 tracer for it. But i love italian bikes amd their looks.
Evening Dave…..loving these vlogs 👍👌🇮🇲. Ps Bobblehat ordered …. My missus loves a warm head….👍😜🇮🇲
Got your order, she'll be hot for you in no time!
@@obsession_engineering she’s already hot….just don’t want her to cool off….this sexy warm head gear , will do the job….👍😜🇮🇲😉👌😂
The SP1 is the only Honda I like.
Cool bike 🏍 😎
Totally agree with the oil filter, an extra nip it’s the weakest point on the oil system. I hope my zx10r your selling me has the same treatment. Thanks for the vid Dave OH gear driven cams! Lovely
Didn’t go for the woolly hat but did order a couple of bits this afternoon 🤘
Thanks for the support
I did purchase said hat, it is indeed very warm. I can also get away with wearing it at work, as it is the same colour as my uniform, nearly. Winner winner !
Win win indeed 😁
Honda's especially suzukis always have best specs when it comes to valve clearances
Dave, I wouldn't have had the patience for the pair valve. I'd have flipped the reeds, and put vacuum caps on the reed covers. Cap the airbox feed to the valve, and toss the emissions equipment into a box, never to be opened again!
Yes indeed - Ive ditched the entire PAIR kit using blanking plates and an electrical resistor from Smart Moto
If you putt the tank up with hammer (to change air filters or something)
Your better undo all the bolts the tank can start leaking on that mounting point underneath
It’s weak point
Just saying
🤘🏻
It is usually a silicon sealant on the cam cover gaskets, so it seems correct.
It should be a specific sealant, not a standard silicone though, as you'll block the oil strainer pretty easily with normal silicone
@@obsession_engineering maybe that is just what was used on these old bikes. I recently done all this on my y2k Kawasaki ZX9r, the manual said to put silicon sealant on those parts of the cam cover gasket
It was also what was previously on mine, and looked the same as yours. I didn't use anything with the new gasket 😂 seems fine so far 👍
My GPZ500, specifies using rtv silicon for the half moons. I understand what rtv means, I just wonder why not stuff like 3 bond, well seal or hylomar ?
Dave’s been to the Honda Hq ,,
First job of the day, you must swear allegiance 😂
It’s a shame the valves didn’t need adjusting because i have no clue what you would have had to do to sort it. But it was very interesting to see the main process anyway. Great stuff.
That's the only part I wanted the adj!
I'm definitely getting a hat
I'll get 2 and my toddler can rock one as well 😂
An excellent plan 😉
😂The little Tinkers😂 👍👏👌
Hi Dave
I am changing the coolant in my 2018 vfr for the Motul motocool +organic that you use. The bike currently has blue coolant which I believe is not compatible with the Motul coolant. Should l be flushing the system a few times before using the Motul coolant.
Thanks for providing a channel with content that is informative and on point.
It's supposed to be compatible with most coolants, but if unsure a flush through with water is sensible
I will give it a flush just to be sure.
Thanks for replying it's much appreciated.
Not sure I'm willing to do a valve clearance check. Looks a right faff!
Another great video, thanks very much for putting it together. A couple of questions: 1) did you use any sort of engine flush treatment before draining the oil? and 2), do you plan to do a video that shows how to adjust the valve clearances (changing the shims??) thanks
I don't use oil flush, never found the need. If I get time one day I'll do one about removing and refitting cams
Thanks Dave, great info. Looking forward to your next instalment of your sp1 storey.
Loving your SP1 videos. I was recently washing mine and since then I get no power when turning key, no lights on dash, no fuel pump , nothing at all. I checked fuse box and they seem all intact. Any suggestions?
There's a 30amp fuse in the starter solenoid, easy to miss but powers everything
i know exactly what you mean with how you tighten the oil filter i go very tight by hand and then a little nip with grips just like you did.
G'day Dave, did you replace the valve cover gaskets when you checked the valve clearances. About to do my SP2 and thinking I should change them.
No, nowt wrong with them so didn't change them
Nice one Davey, I will eventually tackle my rsv as it looks similar layout to this engine. Will you be spectating at this years TT? Cheers
I'll definitely be there, probably in the paddock under a bike somewhere
Whats the point in the possibility of very high rpm’s if you don’t have desmo? 😁
Love the bike and your vids. Keep at it and please film it on track. 😃👏🏻
Steel springs will cope with high revs, not quite as well as desmo but certainly enough to make gear driven cams a sensible option. Especially on a twin, where the cam loading land unloading isn't damped down by other cylinders cam actions
@@obsession_engineering Being a Ducatista, I had to throw something back. 🤣 The springs not only cope much less, since they are not forced shut they also need more force to turn. Gear drive is awesome, as is the bike.
🧿
Yes I have 2 of those terrible fuel syphan device's. But I do keep using it and it does work . Sometimes following doing stuff to it I don't really understand.
As you have added fully synthetic, please let us know if you have any clutch slip issues:seems to be relatively common for SP's when adding fully synth when semi synth was used previously
Fully synthetic, back in the early 2000's was basically just car oil and not designed for wet clutches. Newer bike specific fully syn is absolutely no problem in wet clutch bikes
I bought one of these when they first came out .how I regret selling it.😢
So whats the trick for pulling the tank off without dumping the remaining gas all over? Or were you able to pretty much get it dry with the siphon? I've got an old 70's honda with a balance tube for the gas tank that runs through the frame, I still haven't found a good way to take that damn tank off without making a massive mess.
The pump does generally let too much through so it's less of a problem. But I feel your pain with the balance pipe
Did you consider removing the PAIR system? Luckily for me Australia doesn't care about emissions so my SP2 doesn't have it.
Nope, I'll keep that in as I have no need to remove it. Not sure it'll save many polar bears though
Did the SP1 and SP2 have Ceramic Lined Bores / Cylinders?
Not as far as I know, but I'm not actually sure
Unless there was a Spielberg smooth jump cut, how the hell did he get that full filter on with little or no spillage??
Magic!!
And although it had oil in, it wasn't brim full
Is that a KRIS under the cover in the background 👀
The one under the cover is a ZXR400L model, I think its an L1 from 1991
Stub pipe? Is that how you say nipple where you're from? 😅
Please use NOT HIFLO Filters.!!😨
Semi Synth oil strictly Recommended for this bike.!!
Thanks for the concern. Hiflo filters are perfectly good and much better value than oem. Fully synthetic oil is better in every way and will work perfectly with the sp. Back in 2000 fully syn oils weren't good with clutches but modern oils are fine so no need to worry
10w 40 😏 , who knows how it could be at - 10°C and can read 200+ ...miles for an hour 🤔 ...i will not !