How to Remove and Install Rear Lower Control Arms 2005-2009 Legacy/Outback
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- čas přidán 8. 09. 2024
- Here I show how to remove and install rear lower control arms on my 2009 Subaru Legacy GT and what is needed to do the uppers as well. I was told I needed to replace the upper and lower control arm bushings to pass the provincial inspection so instead of pressing out the old and pressing in new ones, I just got a good deal on a set of gently used arms and installed those instead. The upper arms I got are aluminum ones from a Spec B but my car had a very rusty bolt that was difficult to get out so I decided not to do those today. This guide can also be used to upgrade to stiffer polyurethane bushings from companies like Whiteline or Energy Suspension. Hopefully this helps someone!
*correction! - the torque is 42ft lbs for the lower arms according to the service manual! My source was wrong. Upper arms are 42 and 48 ft lbs.
Just an observation: I find a lot of your video to be hard to see because of how bad the lighting is. If you invest in a couple little LED light sticks, I would help to put them on the floor below the car and shine the light up so that it illuminates the areas you are working on. Oops, I just noticed this is a post from 3 years ago, so maybe you have already done this! 😄
I got all of the bolts loose on my rear control arms except for the inner upper bolt on the drivers side. Broke my breaker bar and took a few teeth off one of my ratchets. Soaked it in Kroil overnight. Either it's coming loose tomorrow or I'm getting the sawzall out and cutting the bolt/ bushing. Arg. Still need to get the front of the trailing arms out tomorrow, as well.
Those upper control arms are the absolute worst. Have the same issue as you did where that back bolt was rusted on there. Still fighting it, but im glad my legacy wasn't the only one with this annoying issue.
I bent the rear lower control arm with a rock or something at some point, causing my front tires to go bald. I ended up ordering an OEM from the dealer so I wouldn't have to deal with the bushings. The part is also called a front control arm cause it's facing the front of the car, even though it goes on a rear wheel. When I tried to install the OEM, there was also bending in the two flaps that the lower bolt goes in. Those flaps are part of what's called the rear trailing suspension arm, which is sadly discontinued. I'm waiting on a salvage yard to let me know if they have one. Wish me luck!
It would be nice if u used lighting
A little more light would be more enlightening 😊
Im trying to do this on my 17' legacy but this is the closest vid i could find on it and its not the same layout
I have a Subaru legacy from 2004 i Change the suspencion and the rear heads Also and stills makes a annoying sound from left rear wheel is like squeky sound everytime you think can be the arm bushes are bad? For make that sound looks he came from there ? Ty
Thank you for this video! Just to make sure I got this right: once you jack up the trailing arm (6:55) to where your lower bolt most easily slides in, you are then in the same knuckle position as you would be when the car is on the ground for the purpose of tightening the nuts on both bushings? Or is it even better if you can get the car on the ground and then torque down there? (Not sure there'd be room for that-- just thinking ahead to this job.)
Does anyone know if this is comparable to the previous gen legacy/outback? I can't find any videos on that generation for this specific repair, so I'm resorting to just watching these
Why don't you just look at your suspension? Either it looks the same or it doesn't
I’m having issues with my legacy, those control arms are rusty and squeak in every little bump
Idk if you fixed the problem by now or sold the car but you probably needed new poly bushing for your control arm and as for the rust, if it’s just surface rust then you can just sand it off and maybe spray it with some clear coat just for future rust protection.
@kasmallibeats4200 does that get rid of the squeak? Or would it be more worth it to replace the control arms and bushings? Having same problem on same car
@@trudarkness21after market alloys (not off eBay) aren’t actually too expensive so depending on your budget may be worth buying new control arms which I heard come with fresh bushings so saves you the hassle of changing them over. At least have pear of mind with new control arm and bushings.
Did it rattle?
hey,where did you get those rims?
Not sure as they came with the car but they're ASA 17 inch rims, don't know which model.
How much did the shop charge to do the upper?
Shop couldn't even break the tops loose. Tried for an hour and tried to charge me labour without even getting anything done. Took it home and did it with my hands and a breaker bar.
@@RPGarage damn. I’ll have to try the map gas torch on that if I have issues. Lol
Yeah very likely you will have issues with the inner bolt. I used a torch too which might have helped free if up a bit. What finally worked for me on both sides was I had to file the nut down on 2 sides and use a 1 size smaller open end wrench. Try and get it loose with the regular methods as much as you can but it's a good last resort
Cash grab lol... Why does everyone with neglected rotten rusty crap think there's nothing wrong with their stuff
Why does one jurisdiction certify it as totally fine 1 week before and yet this one says it's not serviceable? Why did I have to get an alignment on my 1 year old Nissan Rogue to be certified when I brought it over here? Why do all of these parts happen to be very cheap with very high labour rates? Why are there trucks with their fenders rusting off driving around with no "safety certification" required just because they've never been registered out of province? 2 words: CASH GRAB.