The Cure for Shopsmith Bandsaw Drift? Carter Products F.A.S.T. Blocks
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- čas přidán 24. 04. 2021
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Here are links to a few of the products I used in the previous video and that I frequently use with the Shopsmith bandsaw:
🟢 Carter Products F.A.S.T. Fence Alignment Tool: amzn.to/2S4tYrt
🟢 Here's a Magfence II V2 seen in last week's video: amzn.to/32nSYf4
🟢 Here are a few 3D printed inserts for the old cast iron Shopsmith bandsaw table: ebay.us/fyfcaU More to come on these.
🟢 The 1/16" blade I used was a dull 14TPI (fine) blade. I'll get a new set ordered and we'll give them another try in our Mid-Week episode: amzn.to/3uFB2cG
🟢 I've ordered a Carter Products 1/8" blade and will test it out in our Min-Week episode: amzn.to/3QiG0ZI
🟢 The 3/16" blade that actually made the cut was this one, which while cheap does a fine job: amzn.to/305CwPj
🟢 This is my go-to 1/4" blade, Timber Wolf 1/4" x 72" 6 TPI bandsaw blade for the Shopsmith bandsaw: amzn.to/3tCKku7
🟢 This is my go-to Resawing blade, Timber Wolf 1/2" x 72" 4 TPI bandsaw blade for the Shopsmith bandsaw: amzn.to/46CtslN
🟢 My favorite 9" long T-handle "Shopsmith Toolbox" 5/32" Hex Wrench: amzn.to/3sm3NcJ
🟢 Boeshield T-9, for quick lube of tables, way tubes: and in this video, I used it to clean and lubricate the blade guide: amzn.to/2Hi4qlC
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#ShospmithBandsaw #BandsawDrift #FASTBlocks - Jak na to + styl
I hadn’t seen this video. Dang! I just ordered the Carter guides. Thank you again!
Yeah, these are pretty slick.
This is very helpful for understanding my Shopsmith bandsaw better. I really like the Carter tools that you show here. Thanks Scott! 😊👍
Thanks Mark. They loaned me several of these items but the F.A.S.T. blocks really tickled my curiosity. Scott
I have to say I'm enjoying this bandsaw series, learning so much from this. Thank you Scott.
Glad you enjoy it!
Bandsaw series is very informative. Thank you.
You are welcome, Roy. Who would have thought there was so much to it? Scott
Thanks Scott, I’ve been using FAST blocks with a new Timber Wolf 1/2” blade. I’m getting fabulous, perfect re saw cuts. Many Thanks!
Elegant -- I like this solution!
Me too.
You are so right on using the miter gauge... it’s not a perfect solution but, I have used the skewed line and a square to angle the miter face. It makes a tolerable cross cut.
Good review... I’m considering a purchase.
I've used one to guide dowels and such, but to expect that you could actually make accurate miter cuts is crazy-talk. I appreciate your kind words. Your videos are such a pleasure to watch, BTW. Scott
I've learned so much from your bandsaw series. I want to get those roller giides.
Thanks. You'll like them.
So, where do I get them?
@@suzetteedwards7956 You can order them directly from Carter Products: carterproducts.com/band-saw-products/band-saw-conversion-kits/shopsmith-bandsaw
@@MyGrowthRings thanks!
@@suzetteedwards7956 You are welcome.
Thank you you helped me solve a problem I am having.
Glad I could help
ChrisEG Thank you Scott. Very informative. I am waiting on mu MarkVI order and the Bandsaw SPT.
Woohoo! First one?
Hello I am new to shopsmith and will be purchasing within a week. It too bad that the table itself could not be rotated accommodate misalignment. That way the fence could remain straight then would adjust the table per blade thickness.
Hey Larry. The table CAN be rotated, but the very next blade would require you to rotate it again, and then the next one... It's all part of the trade-off of having an awesome auto-tracking feature that never requires adjusting. It's easy to determine the blade's drift and to adjust the fence to it, and as long as that blade remains on the saw the fence will run true. Scott
As always, very informative. At first I said, "why do I need this?" and then you showed me that is saves time, wood and pencil marks on my bandsaw table. Good reasons. At some point when you talk about the lathe, is there an addon to the SS that will help one turn a sphere? I've seen sphere jigs on other lathes but they won't fit the SS. Thanks so much!
Thant's a good question. I don't believe that I've ever seen a sphere tool installed on a Shopsmith, but I have to believe that Robert Sorby or someone has one that will adapt. We might need to post this on the Shopsmith Forum. Scott
" what do we call that part?"
I've always been kinda partial to Dorthey, if it's stubborn Karen. stay healthy, Russ
Well played.
Thanks for the explanation. Now where do I get the shaker bracelet you’re wearing. Thanks
Oh, you noticed! My oldest and unfortunately deceased sister made it for me.
I wonder if there is a benefit to having the blade moving when getting the angle of the drift. Of course, the wood cut method you mention would take this into account... of course you can’t do that with these guides lol. I’m also wondering how difficult it would be to make one using this design simply to get the angle of drift.. I might try that myself lol.
I think you should try it!
I appreciate the video, and like the concept but they are a little pricey. Couldn't I plane different thickness hardwood boards and inset a rare earth magnet into them and accomplish the same thing?
Absolutely! I had the same thought and if your wood choice is made carefully it could work. Choose something stable and light, like basswood.
@@MyGrowthRings Thanks for the suggestion, I was thinking of something hard like Birch, but basswood would be much easier to work and easier to handle in the shop.
I guess the trick would be to make sure the rare earth magnet was set flat with the surface of the board, otherwise the magnet would have a different plane than the board itself.
@@daveschmitt6369 Or slightly below like the product. Easy to do though. 60 bucks is too pricey for me!
Have you made a cut after using the FAST to set the fence? And since I am from Missouri can you show us a cut after setting the fence with the FAST system? I may just buy it. 😃
Yes, but that's a very good point, I should have shown it. Sometimes I forget the advise that I learned from Alton Brown's appearance on Next Food Network Star when he said you have to taste the food!
I was wondering this myself. I’d love to see how accurate both the angle of the drift is and also the thickness of the cut.
@@gatheringsplinters4800 You are very astute. The angle is accurate but the thickness is off due to the notch for the set for the teeth. Once the drift is adjusted the blocks have got to be used in a second step to set the width of cut, but that's OK once you know it
@@MyGrowthRings Good to know!!
How thick are the sides of Shaker Boxes? Is this useful for setting that gauge?
They are very thin; between 1/16" and 3/16". You could use these for the alignment of the fence and for some of the thicknesses, but not all. Scott
So are these really for setting thickness for re-sawing, and we may find another use, setting the fence on our shopsmith bandsaws?
They are more for determining the angle of the blade drift, but once that is established they would be handy for setting the distance between the blade and the fence. To me that feature is secondary. Scott
Scott do you have a link for the Carter ball bearing guides, thanks.
No, this is one product I think you are best to just buy it directly from carter products.
Can you do a segment on the SS belt sander. I'm having trouble setting mine up after I put on a new belt. Thanks
Yep, it's coming soon. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings when you do that series, please do one on replacing the drive sleeve. Mine is shredded. Glen, not Sandy
Scott, Are the Timberwolf blades on Amazon the same quality as the ones they sell direct? I noticed some reviews complaining about the welds.
I've never seen a difference between the ones I've ordered on Amazon vs those I've ordered direct, but it doesn't hurt to inspect them carefully just in case.
I have an old cast iron bandsaw insert that is not being used if anyone needs 1
I have a blade 5/8 I think my saw does not have an index mark above 1/2 so I guesstimated the tension. I used your test cut method and the drift exceeded the adjustment of the set screw. Do I need more tension, less tension, or do I have a "bad’ blade? Suggestions?
Hey Jeffrey. A 5/8” blade should be tensioned to the 1/2” mark on the gauge. The upper shell on the SS bandsaw is tilted backwards for auto tracking, but under higher tension that tilt is automatically reduced. Too much tension and things get squirrely! I suggest watching this video: czcams.com/video/zCBlSe4Z450/video.html. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings perhaps things has=be gotten squirrey. My blade and tires want to come off the front edge of the wheels. I’ll try to put the bend back in. Will this fix the drift issue or is that a different problem?
@@jeffreylopez5403 It should. If it is wanting the come off the front you've definitely got a problem with the wheel tilting too far forward. I cover that in the video I linked to above. Scott
I have no planer or joiner - would you say the bandsaw or circular saw is best choice to square lumber for joining?
When you say circular saw are you talking a table saw or a hand-held circular saw? A table saw beats a bandsaw but a bandsaw beats a circular saw. If that makes sense. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings i meant table saw...that went poorly, so guess i need a planer!
@@toddharshbarger8616 Or a jointer or both. It just depends upon what you hope to accomplish. I can’t do what I do without a jointer. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings well seems like i NEED a jointer AND a planer but most agree planer is priority cuz with a jig or wedges can flatten... jointer seems best to me especially if i construct your thickness drum sander i could get pretty flat and square pieces. Im interested in dewalt 735, but this runs around $5-600. SS Jointer can be found second hand for almost half this. Probably go SSJ route. Do you think the 4” is a significant limitation there - kinda wish it were 6”...
Last question, why cant square with a jointer - table saw - back to jointer? (I understand the jointer - planer - table saw rationale)
@@toddharshbarger8616 That’s exactly how I use my Shopsmith jointer. After each rip cut I give it a single 1/16” pass on the jointer to keep everything straight and smooth. Yes, a 6” jointer would be nice, but then you’d want an 8”! If you use it primarily for edges as I’ve described here you could get away with a 2” jointer, if there were such a thing. I have a 6” jointer that hasn’t seen a board in years. Scott
It doesn't make sense if the blade is skewed, why?
What do you mean?
@@MyGrowthRings why is the blade at an angle. I thought drift was tooth wear or improper tension. I guess I've never had drift when using a new blade.
@@daleclementson8761 Drift on a Shopsmith bandsaw is due to several things, including the conical shape of the upper wheel and the backward tilt of that wheel. What makes it variable is that under different tensions the tilt varies automatically. Yes, on top of all that the set of the teeth and the presence of a burr on the back edge can also add to drifting. Scott
Don't the "Fast Blocks" depend on having a blade that is equally sharpened and perfect set?
Also, I wonder how many people think they have blade drift when the problem actually is that the board being cut is bowing slightly TOWARD the rip fence as the cut progresses, pushing the work away from the fence. I think that NO rip fence should extend beyond the blade. I'm no expert at this, but it works for me.
You are sort of right in your assessment of the condition of the blade. It it is poorly sharpened or poorly set (which is actually still prolly sharpened) or if there’s a burr on the back edge the blade will have tracking issues. You are also correct that a bowed board that has the convex face against the fence will also experience issues. Re-saving is actually a complex operation. As for the fence length, I have used table saws with short, European-style fences and while it is tru that bat the time the wood passes the blade that the cut is finished and the the fence could cause issues, I still prefer to have the fence beyond the blade for support. You can always add a face to the fence that accomplishes this. What is important is that you are comfortable with your approach and that it gives you the results you desire. The proof is always in the pudding. Mmmmmmmm, pudding! Scott
BTW, there are people who say three wheeled bandsaws can’t be made to track properly, but I suspect you’ve seen otherwise.
@@MyGrowthRings I'll have to think about that. I have three 2 wheel bandsaws, but only one with 3 wheels. I only recently got that one running and, so far, have only used it with a 3/16" blade for "scroll sawing" type of work, where you just follow the curvy line.
@@frenchcreekvalley I saw your video with the bandsaw and thought I’d poke the bear!
There ya go again.
I gotta hide my wallet!
Sorry about that, John.
Hey Scott. I use this one...have 1 left from the original 3. I would not recommend...the plastic is super brittle so if it gets off the blade turns it into little pieces
www.ptreeusa.com/bandsaw_inserts.html
Thanks for chiming in, Morgan. Bummer that it didn't work out, but that's one we can scratch off the list. Scott
Hey Scott, I bought the FAST blocks. Tried your process. I can’t manage to get a straight resaw cut. My bandsaw has the cast iron table and original alinement blocks. I’m using the miter gage with a piece of hardwood attached for a fence. I’m using a wide resaw blade, I think it’s a 5/8”. I’m thinking it may be the blade tension, as I tightened the tension I’m not able to tighten to the 1/2 mark without it feeling like I’m turning the adjustment to tight. Do you have any recommendations ?
Hey Gil. Blade tension is important, but one of the leading factors in straight cuts tends to be the number of teeth that are in the wood. For resawing, I want something along the lines of six teeth in the word. That usually isn’t possible, so based on that if I have 12 teeth in the word, I need to feed half as fast. I only recommend the use of a Timberwolf blade, so if it is any other brand that may also be a factor.
Hey Scott, I took another pass at it. I cleaned and dry lubed the tensioner.
and got the correct tension on the blade. I found the blade to table was not square, adjusted that. In the end, same result... I can't get a straight cut. I changed blades, same result. Oddly, this is my second shopsmith, the one I sold had no issues, I used the sacrificial wood/cut to a straight line method and was able to re-saw clean straight lines. I had a Timberwolf blade, but it must have been on the shopsmith I recently sold 😵💫
OK, I opened a box, with a "new" 1984, 1/2" blade. Never opened. It has been sitting in that box all these years. Put the blade on my band saw, went through the process of lining it up with the FAST magnet.....works!!! I got a perfect 1/8" re-saw.. go figure.
Gil