Solvent can always be blown out with compressed air along with any thing stuck in the bearing. Any time you repack a bearing it should be cleaned as well as possible. If you are just adding a a little grease every few months then that is different.
If I have you pegged at all that must have been such a trip for you as you were realizing how many people wanted to to get on board with your channel. Maybe Im wrong. I don't know how id feel about 3k plus subs.
I recently spotted and snagged one of these band saws on CL It was in the free section! The PO said it would need new tires and a motor. I didn't see anything wrong with the tires and when I tried the motor with the belt off (it's mounted on a stand) the motor ran fine. Then I put the belt on. It wouldn't start up because one of the guide bearings was set up. I removed the bearing, and spun the wheels by hand a bit, then tried it again. This time it started up, and that's when I figured out the pulley arrangement had the blade speed up around 4300 surface feet per minute! It sounded like a jet engine! I have since changed the pulleys so it runs about 2400 SFM now and the motor starts and runs the saw just fine. I also went thru the machine same as you show in these vids, and that was before I discovered this channel. I was glad to see I was on the right track when I watched them. The upper wheel was a bit chattery and I took it off. The inside bearing had old hard grease in it and the outer was totally dry. Like it never had a drop of grease in it. I washed out and replaced the grease, and now it runs smooth. It's a cool little saw and I like having it in my collection of 14 band saws. It's the only wood saw all the others are made for metal cutting or both wood and metal use.
At 8:02 I misspeak by saying that the bandsaw is mounted on a "Crafter's Station". This is a Shopsmith "Power Station". They are similar yet quite different and we'll cover that eventually. Scott
I would love for you to video on the belt sander. The automatic tensioner on mine doesn’t work and the belt slips. Love your videos. They are packed with information. Sidenote: when I was born in 1956, my mother got a baby, my father bought a Shopsmith.When my daughter was born, I kept up that sacred tradition. Both are still working. I even have the old jig saw.
Since I have subscribed to your channel, I have been impressed with your information and all the tips and tricks that you have covered. I have a Mark 5 that I had upgraded to the 520. I love the Power Pro upgrade the best. I use my Shopsmith for all my projects. Being in a small garage shop it is a perfect machine to have. I can't wait to learn more.
@@carlolewis3276 go gently, using the least abrasive and caustic cleaners at first. If there’s a layer of rust, I highly recommend Evapo-rust, would you can get just about anywhere now, including Harbor freight. I did a video on resurfacing, a rusty, old jointer, and then another one where I resurface the tabletop of a Shopsmith Mark V. Those might have some info that could be helpful.
@@ericawalling2716 I know that saw. It was a fairly faithful clone of a old Delta bandsaw. The only thing that they changed was the lower guides and the trunnions. I believe that the trunnions on yours are cast aluminum, where the Delta used cast iron. As long as you’re not dropping the saw they should perform just fine!
Scott, I have upgraded the tire on my band saw to a relatively cheap set of blue polyurethane tires from Amazon. They work excellent, they don't move at all, I couldn't make them move if I wanted to. They were a little tough to get on, I had to clamp them on one side, and they came with a little tool (basically a piece of wood with a nail on it and a loose plastic sleeve to roll as you slide it underneath) to use for installation. It told me to submerge in warm water. Once I clamped it so it couldn't keep falling off (halfway on both sides then just do the remaining portion) it was much easier. Just thought I could help for the future video 🤠. Anyway, thanks as always for the video! For some reason I thought I needed to remove the bearings completely to be able to pack them properly. You saved me a lot of headache and time.!
I purchased some orange urethane tires that stretched and came off while the saw was running. I was running a wide resaw blade at the time. The blade came off and chewed up the cover a bit. Not to mention scaring the hell out of me. The blade was ruined, I did a bit of research and found several people having similar issues. I now have a different set (blue) that claimed they don stretch. I haven't installed them yet because I haven't needed to resaw. www.ebay.com/itm/2-BLUE-MAX-URETHANE-BAND-SAW-TIRES-REPLACES-SHOPSMITH-518108-BAND-SAW-TIRES/263597464927
Needed to change the blade to a 1/8 “ blade. Last time I used it, it left saw kerf that really meant a lot of sanding. After watching all the band saw videos, I got the tension correctly set and set the cool guide blocks correctly. What a difference!!! It was a pleasure to cut with. These videos are such a great resource. Glad to be a Chanel member.
Very helpful. I found that I had the overlapping ring that required me to find the end. I have one of those lighted magnifying glasses on an arm with a clamp. That allowed me to easily remove that ring. Old eyes soon to have cataract surgery.
new subscriber and new shopsmith owner here from NC. would love to meet up sometime. Have watched a bunch of your videos and love the info you share and your delivery method
@@MyGrowthRings Marshville NC 35 miles east of Charlotte. Go to Hendersonville about every 6 weeks to visit bedridden mother. Totally new to shopsmith and wood turning in general. Picked up a 1985 that had been sitting for years. Did the whole clean , lube , setup. its running good. Just a slight belt squeal when going to c,b or a speeds. Have adjusted the eccentric bearing . Belt it tight..Added a band saw, router and several tools. Bought 4 Carbide gauges and 5 piece shopsmith gauges
I did the upgrade to bearings on my Band saw guides. I got them on Ebay (of course) and did a tiny bit of grinding on the lower bracket ( I think, it was one of them anyway, it even tells you that when you buy them) it's no big job at all. I've never looked back. I highly recommend it personally.
Thanks for all the great content. I’ve had my shopsmith for 30 years and I’ve severely neglected its maintenance. Thanks to you, I’m starting to do what I should do. In the end, I know this will help a lot. On a side note, on the plastic power coupler, they put a spring in it on the headstock side. Why? I didn’t see it in yours.
BTW, I just put new urethane tires on. So far the seem to work fine. I did have to soak them in warm water and muscle them on. It was a REAL CHORE to get the old dry rotted tires off. I also greased the upper wheel bearings.
Glad to hear that they are coming in handy. Yes, my couplings do have a spring in them. The idea is that if you fail to lock the headstock in place that the spring will push it away and disengage the power from the SPT before you get halfway through a cut or jointer operation. It works, just as long as your waytubes are well maintained. Thanks for watching and chiming in! Scott
So glad I discovered your videos. I’m changing the grease in my bandsaw’s upper wheel today, and figured maybe I should try the new urethane tires while I’ve got it apart. Well, after reading the feedback on the Shopsmith website, I’ll stick with the rubber tires. Mine are in decent shape (not 100% flat, but no cracks or degradation), so I’ll wait to see your experience with the Blue Max tires. I noticed that I have a can of automotive belt dressing spray in the cabinet - do you think that would provide any benefit to the tire life? Ross
Wow, your are observant! As for the tires, what I've read so far about the silicone versions is mostly positive, but I've noticed that most of the folks who have had issues with them mention that they stretched, and I suspect that's because they warmed them in water to make it easer to stretch and that they overheated them. I still need to experiment with mine, but I understand that the max temp is 120 deg, which I'm not yet sure if that's F or C and there's a big difference between those! What we both know is that the rubber tires work well for 15-20 years, and that's really respectable. As for belt dressing, no, I wouldn't use it on the bandsaw tires. If would keep them pliable and would increase their frip on the blade, but it would likely contaminate the wood, creating gluing and finishing issues. Great to have you here, Ross! Make it a great weekend, Scott
@@MyGrowthRings I’m confused about your comment on misalignment of fence to cut a straight line on bandsaw ,adjust fence of aluminum table verses cast iron table. You said you can’t do it on cast table why, you could just adjust miter head to match angle just like using setscrew of other fence. Your moving the miter bar to get width of board width you need.
@@daveziehm8096 Can you reference where I said that? I have always advocated for the cast-iron table and the miter gauge as a rip fence so I’m not sure what comment you are referencing. Add a timestamp by typing in your comment the time in the video where I made the statement. (Example: 3:45) Thanks, and I’ll be happy to add clarification. Scott
Thanks for the great video Scott. I think that a company called Bearings Inc. used to be a place to get those waterpump bearings. I think that nowadays they call themselves Applied Industries 🤔.
I've installed the Blue Max tires on my Shopsmith bandsaw and so far they've worked great. A bit hard to get on: they don't stretch as easily as polyurethane tires and a lot of grunting and yanking was required to get the job done. I'm not sure that soaking in hot water made that much difference to their stretchiness. The tires have a very lightly stippled outer surface that supposedly keeps the bandsaw blade from shifting around.
I would like to see a video of the motors shopsmith used in the various models. Mine had a 3/4 hp and my dads has I believe a 1 1/8 and was wondering how interchangeable they are and are they special to shopsmith. Some say the larger motors are longer so there special to the units and also I would like to here your experiences with the longevity of the motors
That's a great question. The biggest difference between them is that when they moved from the 3/4HP to 1 1/8HP that they made a change to the upper belt, moving from a cogged "Gilmer" belt to a "Poly-V' belt. This allows for a little slipping which the Gilmer drive won't accommodate. The Gilmer drive units also have a fiber clutch that is an intentional weak link but is also a maintenance headache that was eliminated by the move to the Poly-V drive. I'll give this some thought. Scott
Good afternoon. I have been having issues making good joints for picture frames and wondered what you thought of the miter sets and the 20" Aluminum Miter Gauge Extension. Great information Merry Christmas. Gordon
I have a MiterSet and it is awesome. For picture frames I'm also a big fan of Shopsmith's MiterPro: www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/swd_miterpro.htm
Hi Scott, do you have a video addressing set up and usage of the jig/scroll saw attachment? I have a greeny Mark V and just recently purchased a scroll saw from Craigslist. It seems to be missing a few parts...
Hey Scott great Shopsmith videos especially since I’m trying a total bandsaw rebuild. All bearings and tires. I think I need to replace the upper one as well as the lower one. Question: Is the upper bearing difficult to remove and replace. I’ve seen on other forums what to do concerning the bottom wheel water pump bearing replacement. Thanks again!
Hey Bob, it's good to have you here and I'm happy to hear that you are bringing a saw back into service. Replacing the roller bearings isn't too tough, but it is a bit of a pain because you have to press them out from the same face where they entered. That means you have to fabricate some type of punch that can reach from one side of the wheel to press the bearing out of the opposite side. It might be worth seeing if a local machine shop can do the job for you. The bearings themselves are really available on Amazon and from bearing houses. I've done it with a large nail, using the head on the race of the bearing and tapping on the tip, but it was sort of hairy! Good luck, Scott
Good info. I watched your weekend video and ordered some grease and just finished doing my upper bearing. Did not know that was routine maintenance! Thank you. Just now watched this one and have a suggestion that you might vacuum out the machine before you start the video. The sawdust was distracting, plus it would make things easier to to see what you were doing when you were taking out the bolt on the lower. My 2 cents for what it's worth!
Hey Robert, thanks for taking the time to write. Yeah, as a corporate trainer I struggle between my desire to remove distractions and my natural tendency to not give a darn! Thanks for the tip and I promise that I’ll try harder and that I’ll also drive you nuts! Thanks for watching and be sure to stick around anyway. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings, OTOH, as much as it makes us cringe, it provides opportunities for us to see other folks' machines. Also talking points that you can exploit. For example, not all the shops that turn out excellent products are as pristine as yours. Also, perhaps a discussion about what point it's important to clean out the various parts of the various components.
Hi Scott ! You've got another subscriber !! I appreciate all the great info you share with us ! I bought a Shop Smith last year WITH A BAND SAW for $325 !!! All it needed was a little love and it's been running like a charm ! I bought a brand new Shop Smith back in '84 but a divorce forced a sale of it ... Gee, where have I heard THAT story before .... LOL. Also a blue '57 T-Bird .... ouch ... Here's the funny part ... when I checked the # on my "new" machine ... it was built in ... 1984 !!! Isn't life a trip ??!! Question: do you know if a table saw carriage from a Model 510/520 ( with the wheel ) will fit a Mark V ? Thanks in advance !!
Welcome to the channel and man, that was a great deal! Yes, the carriage and tables are interchangeable from the model 500 to the 510 or 520, but there is quite a bit more to the conversion than that. The saw arbors are longer, the tool rest arm is longer, the disc sander hub is longer, and more. Even so, I will take a 510/500 any day. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings , Thank you so much for a fast reply !! Every now and again I see a great deal on the carriages but don't pull the trigger because I didn't know if they're interchangeable !! I really appreciate your channel !!
My 1978 Shopsmith bandsaw upper wheel has an inside diameter of 0.675" and the bearing inside once removed measures 0.685". Is that typical that such a large difference in diameter? Also what is need to re-install new needle bearings?
There have been a couple changes over the years and I'm to the point where nothing surprises me! Ideally a bearing press, but the wheel size can be a challenge, so I use a hammer and a block of wood to soften the blow. Scott
So, just to confirm, there is no need to grease the lower wheel bearing since it is the water pump style? I just did the upper bearing and it was ancient grease. Thanks for the video, very helpful
I see that you already found your answer, but just in case someone else is looking on, you are correct. The lower bearings are sealed, so they are either full of grease or they need to be replaced. Scott
I just aquired my wife grandpas shop smith last month. I am getting all the thrust bearings and guide bearing for the bandsaw since his have totally fallen apart, do you know the stamp numbers on the larger bearings on the right side of the saw?? His are missing, btw i love this thing!!
That's awesome! Yes, the bearings are 608-2RS, which can be purchased on Amazon for super-cheap: amzn.to/374rdLQ They do require a sleeve to make them fit properly. If you aren't a member of the Shopsmith Owners Facebook group I recommend that you join and once there search their files for "Bandsaw backup bearings" and there's a document there that will tell you everything you need to get back to sawing. Good luck! Scott
@08:42 "… opened-end wrench…." Musta got some of that white lithium grease on yer tongue 'less it wuz suma that soll-vent. (Sure glad you don't do much editing out … or are you trolling for snarky remarks? Ya got me! ) I think one of those Craftsman ratcheting box-end wrenches might fit between the bottom wheel and the bolt head-if so, sure would be easier, specially for those of us who aren't slim and trim. I'm not sure, since I never thought about it 'till I stumbled on your vids. Thanks, lotta fun, and LOTS of great info. Not to take anything away from your vids, which are great, but you're making me miss Nick Engler (and Drew, and the pooch) more than my limit.
Did I miss-speak when I said "open-end wrench"? BTW, Nick is back on CZcams and is pumping out a couple video per week. Search "Workshop Companion". Scott
Thanks for the vid. Great content. I have recently purchased a ShopSmith and am currently using/rebuilding it. I’m worried about the bandsaw being the Chinese knock off. The table on mine looks like the one on your knock off that you have. I don’t have the upper or lower wheels. Is there any other way to tell which one I have?
Mark, first of all do you see comments on old videos? I have a band saw I recently purchased and I'd like to remove the lower wheel. However I am unable to remove the fitting on the shaft. The set screw came right out but even with some WD-40 I can't seem to get that little fitting to budge. Do you have any tips? Also, I actually have two band saws now and will be selling the recently acquired one. Before I do though I will be swapping the arched pieces that show what angle the table is at. I'm doing this because the new bandsaw's are shining nice metal and the pieces on my old band saw are black(apparently from the factory like that). I find this hard to read so I'm changing out to the shiny easier to read pieces. Do you know why they made some in black? Are the markings supposed to be painted so it's easier to read? thanks
Hey Matthew, if the screw and retainer are removed you should be able to get it to come out of the casting by tapping on the shaft from the back side of the saw. WD-40 should help too, but a dead blow mallet is the real secret. I've sees some of the black trunnions too and I really don't know what was up, but I would probably just apply some white acrylic paint to the markings and wipe it clean. That would highlight the markings and would likely actually be better than even the shiny ones. Scott
If you look on the channel there’s a playlist tab, and am my bandsaw videos are in one playlist. Or, search within CZcams for “MyGrowthRings bandsaw”. That should return a fairly clean result.
The modern version of the bandsaw has eccentric mounting tubes, and they fit every Shopsmith bandsaw ever made, so I would either get new ones from Shopsmith or find them used on eBay.
I’m enjoying your videos. I don’t have a Shopsmith and haven’t done any woodworking since the class I took in college 30 years ago. New Mark V’s and VII’s are expensive and I see many of these advertised used. Some look to be in poor condition. Can it be more expensive to fix these than to buy new? Do you use mark VII’s or only mark V’s? What do you recommend?
Those are great questions and insights. Nothing beats driving a new Shopsmith off the lot, but there are a lot of fine machines on the used market. One of Shopsmith's biggest regrets is that they didn't incorporate planned obsolescence and they just built them too well. I have seen some that were beyond help, but the most important things are does the motor work and are all of the electronics in good condition? Bearings can be replaced and bare metal can be polished, but was it abused? If so, walk away. Scott
Sorry for the short answer and there’s so much more to say, but I’m on a tight schedule this week. I wrote more about this on my blog: shopsmith-tool-hunter.blogspot.com/2009/08/tips-and-techniques-for-buying.html?m=1
@Jeffrey Lopez, if you have the coins and won't upset the wife or make the kids go barefoot, the VII is a really, really nice machine. However, I can attest that used Vs (and even 520s) can be purchased used at reasonable prices in working condition. Patience is sometimes rewarded with exceptional bargains, or with machines that are in poor condition but can be reconditioned with a lot of care and modest costs. That being said, the old real estate mantra applies here as well: "location, location, location". In some parts of the country, a machine that is two or three generations old might fetch top dollar, while a late-model machine might only get bargain-basement prices in others. If shopping for used, then the sites like Craigslist are your friend, and tools like SearchTempest that automate Craigslist searches are a godsend. Hope that helps, and hope you can get a SS soon.
Don't want to make any nasty shmu in the dingus.... lower bearing is cased in plastic on both ends is it not possible to remove bearing and replace the failed bearings individually?
I am confused with a comment you made on fence adjustment on bandsaw to get a straight cut. You said that adjusting the fence on aluminum works but can’t do it on cast iron table why? You can adjust the miter head to the angle and move miter bar in slit to get width if your piece.
Dave, I’m not sure I’m being quoted correctly. Of course on the cast-iron bandsaw table you can use the miter gauge as a rip fence and it will adjust to accommodate the drift found in the blade. That is a common adjustment. On what video did I make such a statement? Scott
Your site has encouraged me to put my inherited shopsmith to greater use. Thanks for your detailed videos and reminders about safety
So glad to hear it!
Solvent can always be blown out with compressed air along with any thing stuck in the bearing. Any time you repack a bearing it should be cleaned as well as possible. If you are just adding a a little grease every few months then that is different.
If I have you pegged at all that must have been such a trip for you as you were realizing how many people wanted to to get on board with your channel. Maybe Im wrong. I don't know how id feel about 3k plus subs.
It is exciting to know that I am in a hobby that is shared by so many passionate people.
Glad I found this. I need to get the lower wheel off so I can remove the trunion. It’s rusty and needs a little love.
I recently spotted and snagged one of these band saws on CL It was in the free section! The PO said it would need new tires and a motor. I didn't see anything wrong with the tires and when I tried the motor with the belt off (it's mounted on a stand) the motor ran fine. Then I put the belt on. It wouldn't start up because one of the guide bearings was set up. I removed the bearing, and spun the wheels by hand a bit, then tried it again. This time it started up, and that's when I figured out the pulley arrangement had the blade speed up around 4300 surface feet per minute! It sounded like a jet engine! I have since changed the pulleys so it runs about 2400 SFM now and the motor starts and runs the saw just fine. I also went thru the machine same as you show in these vids, and that was before I discovered this channel. I was glad to see I was on the right track when I watched them. The upper wheel was a bit chattery and I took it off. The inside bearing had old hard grease in it and the outer was totally dry. Like it never had a drop of grease in it. I washed out and replaced the grease, and now it runs smooth. It's a cool little saw and I like having it in my collection of 14 band saws. It's the only wood saw all the others are made for metal cutting or both wood and metal use.
Very cool! So glad to hear that you brought it back from retirement. Scott
At 8:02 I misspeak by saying that the bandsaw is mounted on a "Crafter's Station". This is a Shopsmith "Power Station". They are similar yet quite different and we'll cover that eventually. Scott
I would love for you to video on the belt sander. The automatic tensioner on mine doesn’t work and the belt slips. Love your videos. They are packed with information. Sidenote: when I was born in 1956, my mother got a baby, my father bought a Shopsmith.When my daughter was born, I kept up that sacred tradition. Both are still working. I even have the old jig saw.
That’s an awesome story. BTW, have you seen this unlisted video? Shopsmith Belt Sander Tension
czcams.com/video/iJSubdfHNrs/video.html
Since I have subscribed to your channel, I have been impressed with your information and all the tips and tricks that you have covered. I have a Mark 5 that I had upgraded to the 520. I love the Power Pro upgrade the best. I use my Shopsmith for all my projects. Being in a small garage shop it is a perfect machine to have. I can't wait to learn more.
You made my night.
New to shop Smith
Thank you for the detailed service information.
Was gifted a complete unit and was glad to find your site.
You are welcome. If you didn’t get the manual, I suggest getting one used from eBay. Welcome to the Shopsmith family!
Yes, I did get a manual.
The unit is in need of a deep cleaning and restoration. Do you have any suggestions?
@@carlolewis3276 go gently, using the least abrasive and caustic cleaners at first. If there’s a layer of rust, I highly recommend Evapo-rust, would you can get just about anywhere now, including Harbor freight. I did a video on resurfacing, a rusty, old jointer, and then another one where I resurface the tabletop of a Shopsmith Mark V. Those might have some info that could be helpful.
I just bought an old Jet bandsaw and have been researching on maintenance. You’re the only person that goes over this. Thank you!
You are welcome. How old of a Jet saw is it? Is it blue? Scott
I’m not sure how old it is. It is blue. Unfortunately the person did not have the manual It is a JBS-14OS. 708514
@@ericawalling2716 I know that saw. It was a fairly faithful clone of a old Delta bandsaw. The only thing that they changed was the lower guides and the trunnions. I believe that the trunnions on yours are cast aluminum, where the Delta used cast iron. As long as you’re not dropping the saw they should perform just fine!
Will do
Scott, I have upgraded the tire on my band saw to a relatively cheap set of blue polyurethane tires from Amazon. They work excellent, they don't move at all, I couldn't make them move if I wanted to. They were a little tough to get on, I had to clamp them on one side, and they came with a little tool (basically a piece of wood with a nail on it and a loose plastic sleeve to roll as you slide it underneath) to use for installation. It told me to submerge in warm water. Once I clamped it so it couldn't keep falling off (halfway on both sides then just do the remaining portion) it was much easier.
Just thought I could help for the future video 🤠.
Anyway, thanks as always for the video! For some reason I thought I needed to remove the bearings completely to be able to pack them properly. You saved me a lot of headache and time.!
Do you have a link for those tires in Amazon? 😊 Thanks!
Mark, they are linked above in the video description. Scott
That's one of the sets I purchased. I look forward to the challenge. Scott
That's actually the same exact set I purchased, but they were only $30 when I got them in September. Not sure why the large price bump.
I purchased some orange urethane tires that stretched and came off while the saw was running. I was running a wide resaw blade at the time. The blade came off and chewed up the cover a bit. Not to mention scaring the hell out of me. The blade was ruined, I did a bit of research and found several people having similar issues. I now have a different set (blue) that claimed they don stretch. I haven't installed them yet because I haven't needed to resaw.
www.ebay.com/itm/2-BLUE-MAX-URETHANE-BAND-SAW-TIRES-REPLACES-SHOPSMITH-518108-BAND-SAW-TIRES/263597464927
Thanks again for carving time out of your schedule to make these very to-the-point & informative videos.
My pleasure!
Needed to change the blade to a 1/8 “ blade. Last time I used it, it left saw kerf that really meant a lot of sanding. After watching all the band saw videos, I got the tension correctly set and set the cool guide blocks correctly. What a difference!!! It was a pleasure to cut with. These videos are such a great resource. Glad to be a Chanel member.
That's great, Dave. There's nothing like a well-tuned tool. Scott
I keep sharing your channel with my friend Malachi, who I just got set up with a 510.
@@daveschmitt6369 That's great. Tell him to leave a comment and to be sure to explore the content that's already available. Scott
Very helpful. I found that I had the overlapping ring that required me to find the end. I have one of those lighted magnifying glasses on an arm with a clamp. That allowed me to easily remove that ring. Old eyes soon to have cataract surgery.
Steve, that is going to be life-changing! I hope it all goes well. Scott
new subscriber and new shopsmith owner here from NC. would love to meet up sometime. Have watched a bunch of your videos and love the info you share and your delivery method
Jim, in what part of NC are you? Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Marshville NC 35 miles east of Charlotte.
Go to Hendersonville about every 6 weeks to visit bedridden mother.
Totally new to shopsmith and wood turning in general. Picked up a 1985 that had been sitting for years. Did the whole clean , lube , setup. its running good. Just a slight belt squeal when going to c,b or a speeds. Have adjusted the eccentric bearing . Belt it tight..Added a band saw, router and several tools. Bought 4 Carbide gauges and 5 piece shopsmith gauges
Fantastic Info, keep these great videos coming! looking forward to more.
Thanks, will do!
Thanks Scott, I asked about the guides and you guessed correctly, I meant the guide blocks. Thanks so much for your response!
Oh, good. You are welcome and thanks for adding to the content. Scott
I did the upgrade to bearings on my Band saw guides. I got them on Ebay (of course) and did a tiny bit of grinding on the lower bracket ( I think, it was one of them anyway, it even tells you that when you buy them) it's no big job at all. I've never looked back. I highly recommend it personally.
@@arthilliker3721 Thanks for the recommendation. Scott
Thanks for all the great content. I’ve had my shopsmith for 30 years and I’ve severely neglected its maintenance. Thanks to you, I’m starting to do what I should do. In the end, I know this will help a lot.
On a side note, on the plastic power coupler, they put a spring in it on the headstock side. Why? I didn’t see it in yours.
BTW, I just put new urethane tires on. So far the seem to work fine. I did have to soak them in warm water and muscle them on.
It was a REAL CHORE to get the old dry rotted tires off. I also greased the upper wheel bearings.
Glad to hear that they are coming in handy. Yes, my couplings do have a spring in them. The idea is that if you fail to lock the headstock in place that the spring will push it away and disengage the power from the SPT before you get halfway through a cut or jointer operation. It works, just as long as your waytubes are well maintained. Thanks for watching and chiming in! Scott
@@theredtruckwoodshop2722 Yeah, I really need to get that done. I have two different sets that I want to try, I just haven’t had the time. Scott
So glad I discovered your videos. I’m changing the grease in my bandsaw’s upper wheel today, and figured maybe I should try the new urethane tires while I’ve got it apart. Well, after reading the feedback on the Shopsmith website, I’ll stick with the rubber tires. Mine are in decent shape (not 100% flat, but no cracks or degradation), so I’ll wait to see your experience with the Blue Max tires. I noticed that I have a can of automotive belt dressing spray in the cabinet - do you think that would provide any benefit to the tire life? Ross
Wow, your are observant! As for the tires, what I've read so far about the silicone versions is mostly positive, but I've noticed that most of the folks who have had issues with them mention that they stretched, and I suspect that's because they warmed them in water to make it easer to stretch and that they overheated them. I still need to experiment with mine, but I understand that the max temp is 120 deg, which I'm not yet sure if that's F or C and there's a big difference between those! What we both know is that the rubber tires work well for 15-20 years, and that's really respectable. As for belt dressing, no, I wouldn't use it on the bandsaw tires. If would keep them pliable and would increase their frip on the blade, but it would likely contaminate the wood, creating gluing and finishing issues. Great to have you here, Ross! Make it a great weekend, Scott
I enjoy your videos, great information
Glad you like them!
@@MyGrowthRings I’m confused about your comment on misalignment of fence to cut a straight line on bandsaw ,adjust fence of aluminum table verses cast iron table. You said you can’t do it on cast table why, you could just adjust miter head to match angle just like using setscrew of other fence. Your moving the miter bar to get width of board width you need.
@@daveziehm8096 Can you reference where I said that? I have always advocated for the cast-iron table and the miter gauge as a rip fence so I’m not sure what comment you are referencing. Add a timestamp by typing in your comment the time in the video where I made the statement. (Example: 3:45) Thanks, and I’ll be happy to add clarification. Scott
Thanks for the great video Scott. I think that a company called Bearings Inc. used to be a place to get those waterpump bearings. I think that nowadays they call themselves Applied Industries 🤔.
Them and Motion Industries. Thanks for the reminder. Scott
I've installed the Blue Max tires on my Shopsmith bandsaw and so far they've worked great. A bit hard to get on: they don't stretch as easily as polyurethane tires and a lot of grunting and yanking was required to get the job done. I'm not sure that soaking in hot water made that much difference to their stretchiness. The tires have a very lightly stippled outer surface that supposedly keeps the bandsaw blade from shifting around.
Good to know and thanks for the insights.
I would like to see a video of the motors shopsmith used in the various models. Mine had a 3/4 hp and my dads has I believe a 1 1/8 and was wondering how interchangeable they are and are they special to shopsmith. Some say the larger motors are longer so there special to the units and also I would like to here your experiences with the longevity of the motors
That's a great question. The biggest difference between them is that when they moved from the 3/4HP to 1 1/8HP that they made a change to the upper belt, moving from a cogged "Gilmer" belt to a "Poly-V' belt. This allows for a little slipping which the Gilmer drive won't accommodate. The Gilmer drive units also have a fiber clutch that is an intentional weak link but is also a maintenance headache that was eliminated by the move to the Poly-V drive. I'll give this some thought. Scott
Thanks for the excellent information.... any chance you might do a post about the now-discontinued jigsaw?
Oh yes. That is such an interesting tool.
Good afternoon. I have been having issues making good joints for picture frames and wondered what you thought of the miter sets and the 20" Aluminum Miter Gauge Extension. Great information Merry Christmas. Gordon
I have a MiterSet and it is awesome. For picture frames I'm also a big fan of Shopsmith's MiterPro: www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/swd_miterpro.htm
Hi Scott, do you have a video addressing set up and usage of the jig/scroll saw attachment? I have a greeny Mark V and just recently purchased a scroll saw from Craigslist. It seems to be missing a few parts...
No, I haven't done one yet, but I have it on my to do list.
Hey Scott great Shopsmith videos especially since I’m trying a total bandsaw rebuild. All bearings and tires. I think I need to replace the upper one as well as the lower one.
Question: Is the upper bearing difficult to remove and replace. I’ve seen on other forums what to do concerning the bottom wheel water pump bearing replacement. Thanks again!
Hey Bob, it's good to have you here and I'm happy to hear that you are bringing a saw back into service. Replacing the roller bearings isn't too tough, but it is a bit of a pain because you have to press them out from the same face where they entered. That means you have to fabricate some type of punch that can reach from one side of the wheel to press the bearing out of the opposite side. It might be worth seeing if a local machine shop can do the job for you. The bearings themselves are really available on Amazon and from bearing houses. I've done it with a large nail, using the head on the race of the bearing and tapping on the tip, but it was sort of hairy! Good luck, Scott
Well done. 👍👍
Thanks John.
Good info. I watched your weekend video and ordered some grease and just finished doing my upper bearing. Did not know that was routine maintenance! Thank you.
Just now watched this one and have a suggestion that you might vacuum out the machine before you start the video. The sawdust was distracting, plus it would make things easier to to see what you were doing when you were taking out the bolt on the lower. My 2 cents for what it's worth!
Hey Robert, thanks for taking the time to write. Yeah, as a corporate trainer I struggle between my desire to remove distractions and my natural tendency to not give a darn! Thanks for the tip and I promise that I’ll try harder and that I’ll also drive you nuts! Thanks for watching and be sure to stick around anyway. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings, OTOH, as much as it makes us cringe, it provides opportunities for us to see other folks' machines. Also talking points that you can exploit. For example, not all the shops that turn out excellent products are as pristine as yours. Also, perhaps a discussion about what point it's important to clean out the various parts of the various components.
@@seanflanagan5674 If you think my shop is pristine, you and I have an altogether different definition of pristine!
Hi Scott ! You've got another subscriber !! I appreciate all the great info you share with us ! I bought a Shop Smith last year WITH A BAND SAW for $325 !!! All it needed was a little love and it's been running like a charm ! I bought a brand new Shop Smith back in '84 but a divorce forced a sale of it ... Gee, where have I heard THAT story before .... LOL. Also a blue '57 T-Bird .... ouch ... Here's the funny part ... when I checked the # on my "new" machine ... it was built in ... 1984 !!! Isn't life a trip ??!!
Question: do you know if a table saw carriage from a Model 510/520 ( with the wheel ) will fit a Mark V ? Thanks in advance !!
Welcome to the channel and man, that was a great deal! Yes, the carriage and tables are interchangeable from the model 500 to the 510 or 520, but there is quite a bit more to the conversion than that. The saw arbors are longer, the tool rest arm is longer, the disc sander hub is longer, and more. Even so, I will take a 510/500 any day. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings , Thank you so much for a fast reply !! Every now and again I see a great deal on the carriages but don't pull the trigger because I didn't know if they're interchangeable !! I really appreciate your channel !!
@@arthilliker3721 Happy to help.
Rawhide mallets were, and maybe still are, a jeweler's tool. Don't rule out that source.
thanks.... again
My pleasure.
My 1978 Shopsmith bandsaw upper wheel has an inside diameter of 0.675" and the bearing inside once removed measures 0.685". Is that typical that such a large difference in diameter? Also what is need to re-install new needle bearings?
There have been a couple changes over the years and I'm to the point where nothing surprises me! Ideally a bearing press, but the wheel size can be a challenge, so I use a hammer and a block of wood to soften the blow. Scott
So to confirm, the only maintenance reason to remove the lower wheel is if it is malfunctioning since it has a sealed bearing??
100% correct takeaway.
So, just to confirm, there is no need to grease the lower wheel bearing since it is the water pump style?
I just did the upper bearing and it was ancient grease.
Thanks for the video, very helpful
Found the answer in one of the comments from the upper wheel video
I see that you already found your answer, but just in case someone else is looking on, you are correct. The lower bearings are sealed, so they are either full of grease or they need to be replaced. Scott
I just aquired my wife grandpas shop smith last month. I am getting all the thrust bearings and guide bearing for the bandsaw since his have totally fallen apart, do you know the stamp numbers on the larger bearings on the right side of the saw?? His are missing, btw i love this thing!!
That's awesome! Yes, the bearings are 608-2RS, which can be purchased on Amazon for super-cheap: amzn.to/374rdLQ They do require a sleeve to make them fit properly. If you aren't a member of the Shopsmith Owners Facebook group I recommend that you join and once there search their files for "Bandsaw backup bearings" and there's a document there that will tell you everything you need to get back to sawing. Good luck! Scott
You are the man. Thank you so much, i look forward to all your videos in the future as i have almost every attachment to go with this 😁
@08:42 "… opened-end wrench…." Musta got some of that white lithium grease on yer tongue 'less it wuz suma that soll-vent. (Sure glad you don't do much editing out … or are you trolling for snarky remarks? Ya got me! )
I think one of those Craftsman ratcheting box-end wrenches might fit between the bottom wheel and the bolt head-if so, sure would be easier, specially for those of us who aren't slim and trim. I'm not sure, since I never thought about it 'till I stumbled on your vids.
Thanks, lotta fun, and LOTS of great info. Not to take anything away from your vids, which are great, but you're making me miss Nick Engler (and Drew, and the pooch) more than my limit.
Did I miss-speak when I said "open-end wrench"? BTW, Nick is back on CZcams and is pumping out a couple video per week. Search "Workshop Companion". Scott
Thanks for the vid. Great content. I have recently purchased a ShopSmith and am currently using/rebuilding it. I’m worried about the bandsaw being the Chinese knock off. The table on mine looks like the one on your knock off that you have. I don’t have the upper or lower wheels. Is there any other way to tell which one I have?
If it says Shopsmith anywhere on it you should be good to go.
Mark, first of all do you see comments on old videos? I have a band saw I recently purchased and I'd like to remove the lower wheel. However I am unable to remove the fitting on the shaft. The set screw came right out but even with some WD-40 I can't seem to get that little fitting to budge. Do you have any tips? Also, I actually have two band saws now and will be selling the recently acquired one. Before I do though I will be swapping the arched pieces that show what angle the table is at. I'm doing this because the new bandsaw's are shining nice metal and the pieces on my old band saw are black(apparently from the factory like that). I find this hard to read so I'm changing out to the shiny easier to read pieces. Do you know why they made some in black? Are the markings supposed to be painted so it's easier to read? thanks
Hey Matthew, if the screw and retainer are removed you should be able to get it to come out of the casting by tapping on the shaft from the back side of the saw. WD-40 should help too, but a dead blow mallet is the real secret. I've sees some of the black trunnions too and I really don't know what was up, but I would probably just apply some white acrylic paint to the markings and wipe it clean. That would highlight the markings and would likely actually be better than even the shiny ones. Scott
I’m new and bought a used bandsaw and need to replace/reconnect blade. How? How can I organize your videos and find what I need to address?
If you look on the channel there’s a playlist tab, and am my bandsaw videos are in one playlist. Or, search within CZcams for “MyGrowthRings bandsaw”. That should return a fairly clean result.
My Magna band saw doesn’t line up with my mark 5 how can I get adjustable mounting tubes
The modern version of the bandsaw has eccentric mounting tubes, and they fit every Shopsmith bandsaw ever made, so I would either get new ones from Shopsmith or find them used on eBay.
Anyone find that lower bearing available who could provide a link? Mine is definitely shot. Thanks.
No, it looks like the best approach is the entire assembly from either Shopsmith or used on eBay. Scott
Can you put parts in a parts washer?
Sure.
So it’s unnecessary to lubricate lower wheel since it is a sealed bearing?
I’m enjoying your videos. I don’t have a Shopsmith and haven’t done any woodworking since the class I took in college 30 years ago. New Mark V’s and VII’s are expensive and I see many of these advertised used. Some look to be in poor condition. Can it be more expensive to fix these than to buy new? Do you use mark VII’s or only mark V’s? What do you recommend?
Those are great questions and insights. Nothing beats driving a new Shopsmith off the lot, but there are a lot of fine machines on the used market. One of Shopsmith's biggest regrets is that they didn't incorporate planned obsolescence and they just built them too well. I have seen some that were beyond help, but the most important things are does the motor work and are all of the electronics in good condition? Bearings can be replaced and bare metal can be polished, but was it abused? If so, walk away. Scott
Sorry for the short answer and there’s so much more to say, but I’m on a tight schedule this week. I wrote more about this on my blog: shopsmith-tool-hunter.blogspot.com/2009/08/tips-and-techniques-for-buying.html?m=1
Thank you. I appreciate your answer. Your blog was a big help. Perhaps a video topic in the future?
@@jeffreylopez5403 That would be a good one.
@Jeffrey Lopez, if you have the coins and won't upset the wife or make the kids go barefoot, the VII is a really, really nice machine. However, I can attest that used Vs (and even 520s) can be purchased used at reasonable prices in working condition. Patience is sometimes rewarded with exceptional bargains, or with machines that are in poor condition but can be reconditioned with a lot of care and modest costs. That being said, the old real estate mantra applies here as well: "location, location, location". In some parts of the country, a machine that is two or three generations old might fetch top dollar, while a late-model machine might only get bargain-basement prices in others. If shopping for used, then the sites like Craigslist are your friend, and tools like SearchTempest that automate Craigslist searches are a godsend.
Hope that helps, and hope you can get a SS soon.
Put new tires on my SS band saw the top tire wants to come off why is this happening
Bummer. There may be answers. Rubber or poly tires? Did you use the hot water method to stretch them on? Did you use an adhesive? Scott
Don't want to make any nasty shmu in the dingus.... lower bearing is cased in plastic on both ends is it not possible to remove bearing and replace the failed bearings individually?
Getting the races out would be a challenge.
Correct.
Scott, No way to degrease and regrease those lower wheel bearings? Best to remove/replace and even then a chore to do?
degreaser?, back in my day we used gasoline, cleaning bearings properly was a 3 cigarette job
I remember those days!
I am confused with a comment you made on fence adjustment on bandsaw to get a straight cut. You said that adjusting the fence on aluminum works but can’t do it on cast iron table why? You can adjust the miter head to the angle and move miter bar in slit to get width if your piece.
Dave, I’m not sure I’m being quoted correctly. Of course on the cast-iron bandsaw table you can use the miter gauge as a rip fence and it will adjust to accommodate the drift found in the blade. That is a common adjustment. On what video did I make such a statement? Scott
Check around the 7 minute mark of this video: czcams.com/video/AHYdzX3kPso/video.html
Viva paper towels at every Walmart
This is Viva “Signature Cloth”, which is a different Viva product than we’ve ever seen in our Walmart.