How I built my 5-Inch FPV Drone in 2024! // Step-by-Step Guide
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- čas přidán 29. 08. 2024
- In this video, I'll walk you through the complete step-by-step build of the GEPRC Mark5 DC DJI O3 6S ELRS. From unboxing the components to assembling the frame, mounting the motors, and soldering the electronics, I've got you covered.
If you have any questions or comments, feel free to leave them below. Don't forget to like and subscribe for more FPV drone content!
#fpvbuild #fpvdrone #fpv #diydrone
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Parts used:
- GEPRC Mark5 DC Pro O3
- T-Motor Velox V3 motors (2050KV)
- SpeedBee F405 V4 flight controller with 55A ESC
- DJI O3 Airunit
- CNHL 6S batteries (1100mAh)
- Hurricane 51433 Galaxy props
- GEPRC O3 Antenna mount STL: www.thingivers...
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Music
Song: Venjent x Oktae - Calling For You
Music provided by NoCopyrightSounds
Free Download/Stream: ncs.io/CallingF...
Watch: AT/youtube
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About me:
Hey, it's FPV Geek from Germany!
Building drones, capturing cinematic views, and carving up the skies with freestyle flying. Let's geek out together!
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how to build an fpv quadcopter
how to build an fpv drone
how to build a drone
#drone #quadcopter #geprc #dji #djigoggles #djio3 #tmotorfpv #speedybee
Hello everyone, Thank you very much for your constructive tips, especially regarding the fact that I used too little flux when soldering. Be sure to check out the update on the AOS35 build where I tried to implement your suggestions: czcams.com/video/-DtdoL0nZLI/video.html
i like your video, very detail! subscribed.
Thank you very much!
6S!!!! That is crazy insane.
😃
i've never heard anyone say "em em" for millimeters before, is that really a thing? not hating, just thought it was odd
sometimes I wonder about myself 🙈
Good job!
Thank you 🤩
Bro, everything is fine, but for the soldering part, include more flux and the finish of the soldering should be round mirror finish, like you need to be able to see your face in it. cover more surface area as possible and immerse the wire conductor as much as possible into the solder.
Many thanks for your tips.
Unfortunately, my solder joints really don't look that good. But I'll try again with more flux. Do I have to desolder the areas first, or can I simply apply more flux and re-solder?
@@fpv-geek You could add flux on the existing joint, and add some more lead.
But for a clean build, remove all the solder joint and re tin then solder again with flux. Mr.steele has made a video specifically on this. it can clarify all of our doubts regarding soldering.
@@lokaero Many thanks for your tips. I will try to re-solder it
@@fpv-geekdude really, that solder was dry, it means you burned out all the flux that was in the tin, I would clean everything and do it from scratch, first I would use pasty flux and a desolating mesh to remove all the old tin, the most, I would clean it with isopropyl alcohol , I would apply the pasty flux and redo all the welding, believe me, the risk of short circuit or oxidation with this solder is much greater than doing the cleaning I mentioned and redoing the solder.
Hey, thanks for your tips. I have already desoldered all the solder joints and re-soldered them again with more flux.
GREAT VIDEO MATE
Thank you ☺️
u got a sub! Really nice build!
Thanks, man. Comments like these motivate me to create more content.
May I suggest the GNB 1500mah 120C lihv batteries? They weigh just 10 grams more than these ones in the video and are only 32 USD (28 Euro).
Edit: just realized I sound like a bot 🤣
Haha, hey Bot 🤣
Are you flying with GNBs?
I picked up some Ovonic 1000mAh for 13€ each. Can’t wait to see how long they last. Unfortunately, I already killed two of my CNHLs in a crash. So right now, I'm more into buying cheaper batteries instead of the pricey ones with better flight time and performance.
@@fpv-geek Yeah i honestly perfer the more expensive batteries just to get that extra flight time. Im spoiled by my chimera getting to fly 16km round trips to the top of volcanoes 🤣
enviable! I would love to do that too.
Great result ....
Thank you 🤩
Great build, subbed :]
Thank you :-)
galaxy props look better imo
Thank you
id always recognise "calling for you" by venjent, or any of his songs for that matter😂
I love that song. 🎵 🤩
Great build!
Thank you!
Hey, nice video! Just one question though, what is the best website to buy FPV parts from within Europe? I’ve read that Banggood is an option as they started to collect VAT, but what is your opinion?
Thank you.
I order my items from different stores. But mainly here: drone-fpv-racer
great video love you sir from bangladesh.
i just want to how do i can buy a used Radiomaster boxer radio? very cheap price?
Thank you very much. You can have a look on ebay to see if there are any available.
What controller do you use? Also why did you choose DJI vs a different ecosystem?
I use a Radiomaster Zorro. I chose the DJI O3 because my other copters also use this system and I am satisfied with the quality.
Does this work with the DJI Goggles 3? I just bought an AVATA 2 combo 3 weeks ago, I'm planning on buying a freestyle drone later but idk what drones work with the Goggles 3
Unfortunately I don't know, I use the Integra.
Won't work with goggles 3 at the moment, possible with future firmware updates it will
Many thanks for the tip.
@@fpv-geek The DJI Goggles 3 now works with the O3 Air unit
how about the finder?
What exactly do you mean?
@@fpv-geek maybe can have this "vifly finder2" ,so that can find your fpv when missing
Yes, I've been thinking about that these days too. I'm currently using the motors as beepers. But if the battery dies, a self-sufficient beeper would be better. Can you recommend the finder2?
If we use DJI controller 2?
Is all the same or something changes? Also, all cables and everything else comes with tbe kits or need to be bought separately? Many thanks.
I'm not very familiar with the DJI controller, but you won't need the ELRS receiver, and in Betaflight, you'll need to configure it to receive control signals from the air unit. By the way, this isn't a kit; I put these parts together based on my personal preferences. However, there are ready-made kits available for purchase.
I built the same drone... But can i know about the tuning u did on this drone???
But of course. I spent many hours tuning the copter with PIDToolbox. What exactly do you want to know? Did you use the same motors and flight stack?
@@fpv-geek can i get your insta id?
Yes, you can follow my link on my channel
Can you give the back side tpu design
Sure. I updated the description with a link to thingiverse ☺️
Do you have links to the parts?
I ordered the parts from different stores, do you need the link for a specific part?
The stores are:
n-factory.de
drone-fpv-racer.com
@@fpv-geek no I think I can find them thank you
Why no capacitor
there is a capacitor (03:15)
Can you tell me what use remote control for fly
I use the radiomaster zorro
@@fpv-geekplease tell me can i use remote jumper v2
It depends on your receiver module. which module do you use?
@@fpv-geek jumper v2 t-litle 4 in 1
And which RX module is in your copter?
your solder joints look very brittle and bad tho. you need flux and way more solder
Thanks for the tip. You're right. I've corrected it with more flux 🙂
Flight time???
This depends on the type of flight. For cruising, you can expect around 8-10 minutes. For aggressive freestyle, it's about 5 minutes. With a larger battery, like 1300mAh or 1500mAh, you might get a bit more flight time, but I prefer using multiple batteries and swapping them out frequently.
10m fligh time? Sounds very unrealistic
After a few flights I can confirm that I reach a maximum of 3:30 in freestyle, more like 3m.
If you only hover, then maybe 4-5m. But I never really tried to get the maximum out of it. (Both 1000-1100mah)
but that's enough for me, I have no problem changing the battery more often.
$$ ?❤😊
What do you mean?
"ultimate freestyle build " while having a dji 03 on a deadcat frame and a variable tilt mount at the font is a crazy thing to say lmfaooo
Would you say that an X-frame makes that much difference? And what's the problem with the O3 and a variable tilt mount?
Hey man. I know there is a ton of information online on what to buy when getting into FPV. I live in Germany too. I have a budget of 1.5 - 2k. What would you recoomend me to buy (also equipment to build)?
Want to get started with a 5-inch FPV drone? There are ready-made sets to buy. You'll get there with your budget.
Otherwise, look for a Tinywhoop set. Like the Cetus X from BetaFPV. That's what I started with. I also have a crash compilation on my channel of this drone.
Such sets are available for around 300-400€. They're all good for getting started in the hobby ☺
If you have any questions, just let me know.
Dude Flux
You mean soldering?
@@fpv-geek yes, for the solder, everything else looks great though. thanks for the video :)
Thank you!
Yes, I have already ordered flux and will re-solder it. Thanks for your tips.
Most of the soldiering wires containing flux, so it's not like very necessary
Its not a ultimate 5inch with velox motors and the speedybee stack is the budget one and the frame is mid quality, not ultimate buy good budget build.
With the Velox motors I trusted Chris Rosser in terms of price/performance.
Can you recommend another frame that I could have a look at?
@@fpv-geek For premium frames The Apex evo 5inch for the 03 is one of the best and Quadmula siren f5 split, rotor village rvs mopax frame and flyfish volador 5 inch you also need to put a better stack in your build the t-motor velox f7 stack is a very good stack or a foxeer reaper stack even the new cheaper one is much better than the speedybee stacks
@@fpv-geek As far as your motors go i have six broken ones already so chris rosser must be getting paid to tell you theses motors are good i have emax eco motors that hold up better than thoses for premium t-motor f40's and rcin power motors are the best by far get some and you will see what i mean.
Thank you very much for your advice. I actually had the Apex Evo on my list too. So would I have been better off buying that one?
The T-Motor Velox Stack is not that expensive. 🤔 I think I'll be upgrading soon.
@@fpv-geek yeah much better off with the evo frame and t-motor stack