Quick Repair Using Singer HD
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- čas přidán 5. 09. 2024
- NOTE: This video is part of an ongoing and long-term series evaluating the Singer "Heavy Duty" machines. At the time of making this video, I have not yet formed a complete, informed opinion about these machines.
Hi!
In this video, I use the Singer HD to make a bar tack to repair the webbing on my DIY hip pack.
Enjoy!
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Thanks for watching!
Projects that got me started were being 6’4” and 260lbs and a kayaker with a cj7 jeep. I made pogees for my paddle in neoprene, jeep seat covers, a jeep bikini top, wetsuit top in neoprene, kayak deck skirt, custom bags back packs, climbing harness, then leather pillows, tool holders, gun bags, kevlar backpack, machinist apron, camp kitchen bag, even buffer wheels. Started with a Singer 211u166, then a Consew 146, and have added a Singer shoe repair clone. I make what isn’t available or custom to my needs and wants. Even made a spinnaker for my Hobie 16 and a draper for my 1954 AC All crop combine harvester. In todays disposable consumer ikea world I appreciate the ability to be self sufficient in all things and preserve machinery. “Nothing ever over built has broken”. I can make a twenty cent bolt from a piece of scrap with my forty thousand dollar hobby machinist tool shop for about two bucks. Life is good.
Impressive! I've made gaiters & snowboard gloves on my household machine, my neighbor boy loved helping & the affordable results. ⛷
Thanks for the video. I wish you’d show and write in the video notes what the settings were for the machine and the thread and needle information. Yes you stated, but having the information in text would be more clear/straightforward. Thanks again for sharing.
I appreciate the input, I'll try to remember to do that in the future!
I like the hot glue idea, I have been using an old (at least as old as us) Webber 2500w soldering gun to cut and seal webbing, I’m thinking that black hot glue is a better idea I’ve found that the “hot cut” finish on the webbing can damage the thread or in once case snapped a needle
If I hold the thread back when I start the loop problem goes away for me. When sewing thicker webbing it can have a hard time. I have sewn double layer deer skin and a single layer webbing between the deer skin. The machine had a walking foot on it. I think that was about the limit for my machine. I normally use a denim needle on thick stuff.
I have been using that machine for many many years.
Thanks for your input!
I need to start compiling a spreadsheet; I've seen many comments from people happy with their Singer HD machines, and many people who had bad experiences, I wonder what the actual breakdown is. So far I've been pleasantly surprised by this one, though!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks for the sample. That's pretty much exactly what I'd like to get a sewing machine for!
Just out of curiosity - could You just make a quick comparison of how would one of Your vintage machines (the 503 for example) handle this kind of thing (2-3 layers of webbing on 1-2 layers of 400D nylon)?
Hi David!
More comparisons are coming, but I would expect any quality vintage domestic machine to be equally capable of executing this bar tack. Individual machines may vary based on condition, etc. I've used machines like my Singer 237 for this many times. I was very pleased at the stitch quality produced by the Singer HD, but it is also brand new, so time will tell if it will be able to continue to produce that quality.
Thanks for watching, and stay tuned!
I would say that so far, any domestic machine, either new or old, could have handled what you've sewn, with the right needle and thread - that pouch or this bar tack. I look forward to your next one.
I have never been interested in these newer machine or anything newer than the “hybrids” though I was gifted one new Kenmore in the early 90s (my first machine) that still goes. To me, they sound like a box of rocks but that’s sure a beautiful bar tack! Cheers!
Much better test than the zipper pouch !
Thank you John! Please keep in mind, I am embarking on a LONG TERM testing period with this machine. The goal isn't to try to see how fast I can break it, it is is to find out what it is good at, and what it isn't. This process is going to take some time!
Sweet shirt!!
I don't like where the reverse lever is on the HD. It puts my hand in my field of view.
I still haven't decided for myself, when I remember where it is it feels like a more efficient movement, although I still have to go to the hand wheel to raise the needle, so maybe not.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
The email I sent had a very unoriginal title but it sounds like you caught it. Thanks for the great content!
Hi Jesse, I checked again, and still don't seem to have an email from you. My email is
the jason of all trades @ gmail . com (remove the spaces)
@@thejasonofalltrades Sent you an email just now. I hope it reaches you okay.
@@thejasonofalltrades Oh, I was missing the "the", Resending now.
Isso ai obrigada
Yes but. Can you hand wheel the machine manually ? Like with real metal machines!
As far as I know all sewing machines can, some are easier than others
Hi Debra,
You certainly can hand wheel the machine; however, if the going got really tough, I suppose a plastic gear inside this machine would be more likely to strip than a metal one in a vintage machine. So far, this machine has worked better than I expected it to; time will tell if that continues, though!
flip it on it's back, take the bottom off of it and look inside see what it's made of. does it have a drive shaft across the bottom or does it have 2 plastic gears with a crappy plastic belt connecting the gears. if it has a drive shaft, then it can claim it's heavy duty. if not, then it's not heavy duty. unfortunately Singer tends to go with the plastic gears and belt strategy on a lot of it's domestic machines
Hi!
In the first video in this series, I linked to a video by Sewing Machine Repair Guy where he does a teardown of the machine, and yes, of course, it's full of plastic.
My biggest concern about this machine is the "Heavy Duty" name. Unfortunately, there is no standard for what "heavy duty" means; a manufacturer can call anything they want "heavy duty." To be honest, I'm not even that concerned about parts made of plastic, if it can be shown that they work great and will last a long time, but I'm skeptical that this machine is really "heavy duty" in the sense we all interpret it in this context. But I'm going to do my best to thoroughly test every aspect of the machine that I can to see if we can come to any conclusions!
Thanks for watching!
@@thejasonofalltrades I think the only real heavy duty machines are industrial
I have this one. I personally hate this machine for what I do, which is sew 500D or 1000D nylon, webbing, zippers, etc. Got tired of it going out of timing. Ended up purchasing a Reliable Barracuda yesterday
If you are buying a sewing machine from walmart, you already have a problem. plastic gears and crappy parts
I don't disagree, but I have to admit, there are situations when an inexpensive modern machine may be a better (or only available) choice for some, and this machine has definitely exceeded my expectations so far!