Sanding Blocks 101: What you need to do the job.
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- čas přidán 11. 07. 2024
- New to body work or been struggling with what blocks to use? Travis gives a brief overview of the sanding blocks used at Sylvester's Customs. He also throws in some tips and tricks. Don't be in the dark get what you need to do the job.
Big Kid Blocks
bkblocks.com
True Blox
www.trueblox.com
Go To Block (aluminum)
gotoblocks.bigcartel.com/prod...
Dura-Block
www.dura-block.com
Lucky Blocks
luckymattsrodshop.bigcartel.c... - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I’m on my forty first year of doing bodywork. Very well done instructional vid with excellent tips for a aspiring auto body tech. We sure need them
Very well done instructional vid. One of the best I’ve seen
Thanks for clearing up the many questions regarding sanding blocks that I had questions about.
Excellent info & presentation.
Rick
Thank you for watching
Excellent. You passed along so many great tips from years of experience. Thank you so much.
You are welcome!
Very informative video! You presented all the options and techniques very well. Thank you. Looking forward to the next. Cheers John 🍻
Thank you!!
I’m on my first year of doing body work. Even though I have entered my 60’s this bodywork is for me. After decades at dealers and several aftermarket shops fixing other peoples mechanical woes, even painted over a have dozen personal vehicles as my wife, sons or daughter learned to drive. I don’t coming home only to have my wife meet me at the door with a fresh batch of snickerdoodle’s! Ok, how much is this going to cost me?
I enjoy the information just when I thought I was done buying tools. Woops, there goes another $500, $1k. Or less. Thanks for the video as my bucket of elbow grease is on back order and I use paint sticks for sanding blocks.
DK. ASE Master Tech since 78
Haha the list of tools never ends
The right tools for the job. Love it. Thanks for all the info
Thank you for watching !
Best channel there is for learning this field. I’ve been around Hershel Conway known as worlds best painter for many decades we all called Junior. I’ve seen him work a ton of time sanding in door Jams where he’d wrap sand paper around one of those small boxes of matches that’s what maybe 2 inches long. Amazing the time he spent on a car. Why back in the day he’d get $100,000 to paint a brand new car.
Thank you very much
I’ve been playing around as a hobby restoring cars for about 35 years I’m 66 years old I was stationed in the Marine Corps in San Diego and hung around out there for another 10 years and all through the 80s I was picking up Camaros left and right 68 mostly 1500 bucks fix it up turn around get rid of it double my money wasn’t really about the money it was fun but I just wanted to say you’re the best teacher I’ve ever seen thank you
Thank you so much. 🙌🏻
Nice reviews on the different blocks you make a great teacher
Thank you
Very nice video man . That will help a lot of people if they want to learn . Big thx.
Thank you 👍🏻👊🏻
50 years experience here and still learning, could probably teach you some too but you got this….😎
Anyone good at what they do is always still learning 👍🏻💯👊🏻
Great video man,just started at a restoration/hot rod shop and want to improve on my blocking skills...just ordered a few big kid blocks including that little detail kit...good stuff brother
Thank you !!
youre very informative in your videos. i also watch Paint Society , Fitzees fabrications and a few Wray Schelin videos. you guys know your craft enough to be great teachers. I have a 1951 chevy 3100 im working on, doing everything myself that i can. ive replaced a lot of metal , done some fabricating and soon will be doing my own upholstery . Ive done a little body work in my time but this will be a first full vehicle for me. As you know and like youve said, there isnt much flat on any vehicle and my 51 is definitely one of those, mostly big rounded shapes , the only flat being in the bed sides. As im looking at your table full of blocks , the ones with the rounded or tubular hand grips. i think i may just fabricate a few different sized blocks with some various diameters of pvc pipe screwed to varied thicknesses of lexan or abs, that i have available to me . They should afford me just enough combination of flexability and sturdiness to work my old chevy smooth. I'm not looking for a 100 point show vehicle but i do want it to look smooth yet a little "original" at the same time . I'll be subscribing. thanks again
Thank you very much for watching I also watch the same channels they are very good
Good well explained video, it’s easy to screw a panel up with the wrong block ( ask me how I know ha ha ) I’ve met and talked to both Travis and the man behind the camera (Mike) and like me their quest for knowledge and perfection is relentless. If your wanting to learn or experienced Sylvesters Customs is a thing to follow and pay attention to.
Thank you very much mike!!
Great video!
Great video. If you're getting burned out sanding flat spots, just move to a curve because they're a little easier to sand, gives you a little boost. I do production work on trucks now so they always have to remind me it's not a show car. I've learned how to get filler straight with a d/a. I wouldn't recommend it but it gets done.
Same here man I paint commercial signs and use a d.a sometimes ..takes a little practice and manipulation but it’s possible
I bought several of the Linear Blocks from Colton Davis ....Iam very impressed with them. Ive been blocking cars since 1968.....I have gone through a few blocks in my lifetime. These seem to be the best....I enjoy your videos.
No joke I bought his entire kit last month. I also agree it is the best block hands down
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS the Linear blocks??
@@yuvegotmale yep!! Best block in our shop I plan to do a video on it soon.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Iam very impressed with them.
I did a test. I had a small ding in the qtr panel of my 66 mystang.
I had a lot of clear on it and figured i could block it out.
I guide coated and blocked with what I thought was a good block.
Poof… ding disappeared. I re guide coated the ding ( that looked like it was gone) and used the linear block… it was still there. That sold me on Colton Davis’s linear blocks.
@@yuvegotmale we show stuff daily on Instagram if you are on there check us out! Sylvesterscustoms
Another very good presentation. You touched on something I have been wondering about and that is "I'm not in this as a pro--- can I make my own sanding blocks??" Thanks again.
Glad it was helpful!
Hey brother I'm enjoying all the information. I've tried to catch as many videos as possible to pick up tips as I go along. There's a lot of things in bodywork that I'm not that informed on and I've learned a lot from you in short time; I'm truly grateful! I'll disclose that although I was shown a few things I was never been formerly trained in doing bodywork, its something that I've had no choice but to learn from doing so that projects would get done. Well, after 20+years of it I have gotten pretty decent all around. I still struggle with laying paint at times, and certain portions of the finishing could improve still. The metalwork, laying filler, forming, shaping, contouring, etc.. have always seemed to come natural to me. One thing that I want to make a point on comes from some learning "growing pains" that I went through and I've come to see certain blocking from a different perspective. I'll do my best to explain; When it comes to long blocking.. I fell into the trap early on of purchasing a set of durablocks. After the purchase I thought they were the "bees knees" and loved how easily they made a panel block out, this was of course without the knowing of what I was truly doing... which was just deflecting the contours together or making the contours all flow into each other lol. Well, one day I met my match...it was a rooftop that had been damaged. I did my best to straighten it up, but the car had been torqued by a big inch motor at one time that the whole thing was twisted! Block, block, block I did; Lay mud, guide coat, lay mud, guide coat....It never stopped! I was chasing my tail! I got so frustrated with it that I didn't touch it for days. So one day I went down to the paint and body supply kinda mentioned what I was dealing with to the owner who was an old hot rodder for years..not to mention He had a long history of being super salty in any bodyshop he would grace with his presence! He walked over and grabbed a 3M hard formed yellow long block and sat it on the counter in front of me, and asked if i had 80 grit long block sheets. "I have some," I replied. I paid my tab and went to the shop thinking... why did he give me this long block? I began blocking and in very short time I realized the truth...and I couldn't believe it...said to myself...Don't tell me these damn durablocks have cost me all this headache!!! Yessir, that was the end of the durablocks for me.. oh i kept a couple soft durablocks for surface prep but the long durablocks went into the trash and I vowed from that day....to NEVER USE A BLOCK WITH ANY DEFLECTION OR GIVE when I am in the process of making a vehicle straight! It's about working the contours from side to side, cross-cutting always, and moving overlap ALWAYS. It is my opinion that any block that allows deflection is only robbing you and making imperfections which are delaying the desired effect. Also, I use this same viewpoint whether the panels are straight, or curvy as a Harley gas tank! Another one that collects dust on the shelf is the infamous Hutchins Speed File! Its a deflector as well. Now don't get me wrong; I use the Hutchins Air File All the time! It's a lifesaver, and I work it side to side, cross blocking same as always with overlap as to not cut the center out of any contours. Makes it alot faster. I rarely rarely use my Mirka DA sander. usually for wet sanding if anything. I hope i was able to explain my viewpoint clearly and that this helps somebody
out there. Keep up the great work brother!
Yes we totally speak the same language it’s that exact struggle we’re trying to help out with…. The grind is no joke. Thanks for sharing!
So your saying don’t use a block that flexes any? If so what about say on a VW bug fender? I’ve only done little bit of bodywork and want to prep my 1960 pro street Hillman Husky for a color change paint job.
Just subscribed to your channel. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thank you very much
Great tips good video. Thanks!
Thanks for watching
Great stuff ,thanks!
Thank you
Nice blocks
subbed wow thanks so much for this.
Awesome, thanks.
No problem!
Nice video gonna check out big kid blocks 👊
Thank you our newest addition is linear blocks they are even better
I'll check them out
Grate advice. Thanks for taking the time to make these videos. What brand or line paper do you like to use?
We use carborundum paper. And sun might as long as you are sticky back snd not Velcro
I would love to see a video of you mudding a door to quarter area. I have seen people use those wax strips to accomplish the same type of affect, but my concern there was removing all the wax.
We will be doing a video on that soon. 👍🏻
Dam good video thanks
Thank you
Thanks for sharing the info! I’ve been restoring and blocking cars for 24 years. I’ve been using durablocks for a while now and feel like I’m working my arse off. Been looking at something different, hopefully better. I’m getting away from collision work and focusing on hot rods and customs so getting large panels perfect is a must. Looking at linear blocks? Any experience with these?
they are real real expensive!!
This is great information. Thank you! What epoxy primers are best. Or what can you recommend
Vp2050 is in my opinion the best we have personally used
best answer for; "Should I buy this.... "YES"
Can u explain the relationship between deflection and straightness? Also straightness and the thickness of the block.
If you watch our video on bodywork and sanding primer it will help explain how to pick the correct block
I remember seeing the links to the block company websites last time I saw this video ?
They are still there in the description for you.
What is your thought on using 40 grit then 80 getting things flat then primer it then roughing the primer then paint? You think a guy can get things flat enough basically first with 40 then 80?
I don’t really see a need if you are getting after it with 80 within the short window you have to work it. If you use 40 grit you are using such a big scratch it causes voids and you will end up getting failure areas or shrinkage in areas you don’t want.
I need more blocks!!!! lol
There’s never enough 🤣
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS is there anyway you can make a video on just your blocks?
@@driftsmoke877 Our blocks? We do not make any in-house we are using a combination of several different companies
I have a 73 chevelle, all curvy...having difficulty getting that flair into the wheel well sanded straight....any tips?
Check this out
Easiest Way to Bodywork Difficult Transitions
czcams.com/video/rgudi6no3OM/video.html
What happens if you drop one of the linear blocks, or big kid blocks? Do they chip or break?
The only blocks we have that break are the big kid blocks
I'm going to purchase a durablock 7pc set for some starter blocks, they sell 2 different types do you have any thoughts on adhesive vs hook and loop paper? It looks like hook and loop is probably less annoying to swap but adhesive paper may sit flatter with less cushion to move around and give a better finish?
I think you need to re-watch this video over. We literally cover the pros and cons
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Thank you, I had watched the video a couple weeks ago and only just started ordering blocks a couple days ago, the sand paper section had slipped my mind. I've rewatched it now.
👍
What’s ur opinion on Polyurethane primers ??? There a Product call ALL-U-Need and it’s a all in one primer for bare metal.
We don’t use it however a buddy of mine does very high end cars and that all you need stuff from clausens is all he uses. He loves it!!
Did you mean to say that you jump from 220 to 600 or are there other grits between? I think I know what you meant.
You are correct we go from 220 to 500 or 600
Hi for someone like yourself, have you tried dustless blocks (vacuum hose attached) seems like a lot are using these blocks now. Do you feel the cons outweigh pro's and prefer to put up with the dust to have full control and feel of a block with no hose attachment. Be very interested with your thoughts. cheers.
Dustless blocks are used in collision industry there isn’t a dustless block out there on the market that can attach to suck the dust I with there was. The ones that are out don’t do the same thing unfortunately.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Pinky's Blox. A guy from the UK sells them for car resto work in mind. I'm thinking of buying them, but If guys like yourself aren't using them worries me. But if you haven't seen them maybe worth a look and give an opinion, also thinking of trying mirka vacuum system with their blocks along with Pinky's Blox. Or do you think all will be a waste of $$ and best left for the collision industry...cheers
@@markstone5593 if you are looking for a mirror finish the pinkyblox will not do it I just looked them up. Mirka system will not do it either. In my opinion they are great if you don’t want to clean the shop later but that’s about it. Best bang for your buck is going to be one of the three manufacturers. Lucky blocks/ linear blocking tools/ or Nextlevel blocks hands down without a doubt. I teach very specific reasons as to why in our classes. Also most blocks that are Velcro hook and loop design will also never get a mirror finish.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS cheers , I hear you, and I've never used velcro, appreciate your opinion 👍
Linear Blocking System!
Linear is great I’ll be teaching a 4 day class in Wisconsin this coming march with them.
Yer totally agree. Linear blocks are the go.👌👍
What do you think of the linear blocks?
We have several videos with those blocks. We have every block that they manufacture, although they are good. The ones that I like the best are next level blocks. Sometimes you need a different variation of thickness on the lower acrylic.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS
Ok so you please point me the next level blocks that I would need to match up to the master kit from linear blocks thanks in advance
When do you use a air file or do you ever?
Never. Unless you're doing production work and your filler is hard. They really aren't good for much if you know what you're doing.
We don’t even have one in the shop. 🤘
I don't do body work but will this sommer. I have 2 ,one very old and one not so old. Used them on head gasket clean up till I got scotch bright pads for miny angle grinder. Watching your videos to get some ideas was making me doubt using on my 64nova. As you know they have very straight lines and I want to keep it that way. Thanks very much for your imput
The Black Diamond Blocks cost $157 for (1) 8 inch and think other is 13 or 16 inches with 3 rods each to stiffen them the stiffest with 3 rods installed and less stiff by taking one rod out at a time. But for $157 I’d say that is way to high priced. Maybe they work much better and worth it I don’t know.
Never used them. It’s all in the touch and technique that just comes with practice.
🤔
u forgot the hutch blocks they were there before all others
Maybe those were before my time. Haven’t heard of those.
My local paint supplier treated me like an IDIOT.. I told them I have a 56 F100 and I need something flimsy.. NO NO NO!! you need the STIFF Dura Block AF4403.. and sand at a 45°.. NOT a 30°.. I told them I have a air file i can use (no air) like that Dura Block and they laughed at me..
What you need is next level blocks most paint suppliers are there for collision shops not restoration. Most of them. Don’t even know how to get perfect finishes. If you call next level and tell them you saw the blocks on our channel they will give you a discount.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS the 2 guys were OVERWEIGHT and looked like they've never done bodywork (hard work) and have never herd of the big kid blocks..
I have 9 classic fords. 3 ready for bodywork (mocked up).. and I dont want to pay for paintjobs..
Don’t be a block head
🤣🤣🤣🤣I’ll try