Is this the Best DIY Power Cable on the Planet? (& cheap too!)
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- čas přidán 19. 03. 2021
- In this video we discover what is maybe one of the best power cables available on plaet earth. Ready to revolutionize your power supply?
Yarbo website:
www.yarboaudiophile.com/en/dis...
Audiophonics:
www.audiophonics.fr/en/cable-...
eBay:
www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...
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#hificables #powercables #audiocables - Hudba
Thanks for sharing Guido, looks interesting - a good value high-end cable.
Ah, I just found this updated video of yours on THE best power cable of them all! 😊 I'll see what I can find along these lines then, thanks!
yes right into the mains which i did managed to do it myself .and decent cables .it works for me .best from scotland folks .ps love your videos 😊😊😊
great recommendation!! THANKS!
Try Mogami W3104 , it is not OCC, but a pro Japanese cable. The noise rejection is huge. The improvement is incredible. The price is the best thing. At the end the recording studios, musicians use this type of pro Cables, Mogami, Canare etc.
Perfect video!
I really would appreciate how you mantle in detail all the parts together. As it is important to donit right. Thank you for explaining/showing to your fan community.
Peter
Hi Guido. Thank you for this great video. I did assemble some powercables with Belden Cable and Oyaide 046 Plugs. I thought this is the best i could get. But after comparing to a stock cable from PS Audio, i did know, that this is just a start. I will test your recommended cable very soon. I have tested different plugs and was surprised how much difference it made. Thanks for your inspiration. Keep up the good work!
Cool! Keep us updated!
@@anadialog Hi guys, i did test it and can give a short feedback about the Yarbo cable.
I did not expect such a big difference in sound improvement. The bass ist phenomenal! Very deep and with a lot definition and weight, the soundstage is huge, and the music sounds extremly three dimensional. The mids are natural, and the instruments have the right tonality and color. The biggest improvement it made with my valve power amplifier. The cable is very big in diameter and did not fit Oyaide plugs. I did use the Viborg 502 pure copper plugs instead. The combination sounds like on steroids. For so little money so much improvement is unbelievable! Before upgrading an Amplifier, everybody should listen to that cable first.
Thanks for the suggestion, Guido!
Thank YOU for your feedback!
@@jurgernst9426 I just got my Yarbo cables and Oyaide P004 and C004 plugs/connectors. It looks like the Oyaide plugs will work (albeit very tight). Inside the connector, there are 2 plates that clamp the cable. It looks like if you take out the top thinner one that looks like a "C", you are still able to use the clamps. The housing where that "C" piece goes is shaped the same and you will still get a good clamp. Frankly, it is such a tight fit anyway, the clamp really won't have to work hard. I haven't assembled the cable yet but did confirm this will work on a dry run with the necessary pieces in place. If I didn't already purchase these connectors, I may have opted for ones that would not be so tight. Seriously, I think if the plug opening was any smaller or the cable any larger, there is no way to get this to work. It is EXTREMELY tight guys.
@@stretchcdr hi Darren
I almost can‘t believe you made it to fit the oyaides. The cable is really very thick like a water hose. I did add a nice nylon sleeve, so the cable is even thicker and won‘t fit my Oyaides. But the sound-improvemtent is big. It still lets me smile, everytime I am listening to music. What is your impression of the cable?
I ordered two Yarbo cables. One is 1.5 meter and the other 1 meter. What a hassle I went through ordering those cables from a seller on Ebay from China. I really wanted two 1.5 meter cables, but got frustrated after multiple attempts to buy the second one. I ordered those Neotech connectors from place in the United States called USA Hi Fi Electronics which cost $382.37 with the shipping. That was an easy transaction compared to buying the Yarbo cable on Ebay. I just hope I get the results after spending over $600 with shipping. Thanks for the video. I watch your channel a lot and get some really valuable information. Some of which I already was aware of being an audiophile for over fifty years.
Wow! I'm feeling the pressure! Thanks man! Sorry for the hassle, maybe buyingin Europe is better. Give us some feedback after burn-in!
@@anadialog I think there must a communication gap from the USA to China. After I sent the seller several messages to get a 1.5 meter cable he managed to sent me an offer for that length. Then I tried to purchase another of the same size, but he never managed to do that even after several more messages. I finally purchased the one meter cable, which should be alright. I told him I bought Neotech connectors. He wanted to sell me Yarbo connectors and install them on the cables. I need to find another place to purchase any Yarbo cable in the future. Also I really love your channel. I just watched the recent video of your comparison of the Japanese pressing vs. Analogue Productions reissue. I buy a lot of the AP records, but usually the 45 rpm ones. They cost about $55, but I think they are worth the price. Those are the best the sounding records I have bought in quite awhile. I have a lot audiophile records in my roughly 2,000 albums. Most are the older Mobile Fidelity. I also have several of their box sets. In my collection I have Sheffield Lab, Nautilus, Direct to Disc, etc. I really love the sound from vinyl. Although I recently picked up a PS Audio Digital Link III DAC with Cullen IV upgrade. All I can say is WOW! I use a Marantz middle of the road DVD/SACD player for the transport. I am now rediscovering my CD collection. I am amazed at how much improvement the DAC has made. I was never a big fan of CD's. Thanks again for your wonderful CZcams channel.
Thank you!
Thanks, going to test it soon 👌😉
Great! Give us some feedback!
Thank you so much for your excellent articles.
How does the Yarbo SP-1100PW compare to the Yarbo SP-8000PW?
The 8000 is OFC. No comparison with the one presented in the video.
Sue tue vecchie indicazioni avevo già acquistato questo cavo, ne ho ricavati 3, per ampli valvolare, prephono e giradischi. È stata dura farli, ci ho messo una giornata in pratica. Eccellente!
Mi ricordo! Grande!
Life is too short not to try out a decent power cable in your system. Especially for your power amp. I hear all the same arguments over and over again like it is a bot replying to these videos, but it just does make a difference. Just borrow and try it. It doesn't have to be expensive, and, more importantly, it can be fun. These cables does seem reasonable. And thanks for nice content again!
Thank you, I agree!
It works like a placebo works. There is nothing in any power cable that can improve performance.
No it doesn't no matter how much you tell yourself this...
@@exitar1 Tell who wot?
@@MrsZambezi Bjonar it was for i agree with you..
I am using the GY-8000PW (Flat Copper) for more than five years. Although it was not OCC, I was still impressed with its quality.
Nice!
Hi, thank you very much for your viedeos, I always learn something.
I was wondering if the drain wire should be attached to the ground wire (yellow/green) on both ends, or just to the wall socked end (schuko). Many thanks!
For security reasons, yes, both ends! For dynamics I would say better not (no connectionat all), but remember that you are not shock-protected at that point.
@@anadialog I don't earth all , only one component ........also check phase !
Hi very impressed for your introduction on Yarbo power cable SP-1100 PW OCC can tell me where did you buy it thank you.
There are links in the video description!
Thanks for the info on skw audio speaker cables
Thank you! This cable is even better in its category. Teflon does the magic.
Great find, thanks for pointing this out! Each of the leads appears to be individually shielded - are those shields meant to be connected to the source earth, or only the outer shield? Thanks!
They should be connected to both!
Hi, excellent video. I am about to buy either 2 or 3 metres of the Yarbo cable, but was wondering, since you've used the Neotech connectors, have you tried their high end mains cables? It seems they favour a copper silver mix. Lots of people suggest staying with the same brand for the cable and connectors. Alternately, do Yarbo not manufacture UP-OCC connectors? Thank you, Mark.
Hi Mark, I haven't if, too expensive IMO. I tend to prefer mono metal cables, no mixes because of different electrical properties. I do use neotech for interconnects and speaker cables. Yarbo makes its connectors but they aren't very good, normal quality.
Teflon is the best cable jacket I know of. Very nice cable. I would use those without hesitation. There are cables out there for far more cost.
Indeed!
Great video.... First I replaced dac power cable. Great sound upgrade. Next amp... And streamer. Best regards. (Hegel hd12 Hegel h300)
Nice!
It’s placebo
Hi great video! My question is a little off subject, but what is the name of the audio track and artist you use for your intro? I love the great sounding mix on that.
Don’t know it was part of the intro pack of that time
Guido, did you perform the phase cancellation test?
Signal with a regular cable + signal with the supercable in phase opposition and perfect sample alligment.
If you hear or see something in the resulting waveform there's a difference. If you hear nothing and the waveform is flat, well...
Getting the signal straight from the test device will allow you to avoid any effect from the room temperature and local athmospheric pressure (which, because of the different density of the air, affect the sound far more than a power cable and any copper alloy) and humidity (affects the air vibrations as well, obviously).
Sounds similar to the Null test and we all know how good that is...🙄
@@anadialog It's a null test (but I explained it for those who don't know what it is) Either there's something or there's nothing. 😌
And what's wrong with the null test?
@ANA[DIA]LOG I just bought a DAC , a Denafrips PONTUS 2. The yarbo with the furutech connectors would cost me almost a quater of the cost of the DAC considering shipping and my location. Is it still a wise and worthy investment or would I be better off going for a OFC variant of the yarbo at a much cheaper cost ?
What I discovered is having a dedicated line from your breaker to an outlet for your hifi is key. Thats the most important thing as it isolates your audio power from the rest of your house. Then get a decent surge protector like a furman. I got a Gr Research cable after that and didn’t notice much of a difference because my noise level was already very low. So paying your electrician $200 can save you thousands in expensive audiophile cables.
A dedicated circuit still connects to everything else in your house at the electrical panel. Plus you are connected to everybody else on the load side of your power company's distribution transformer. An isolation transformer at the end of the circuit that feeds the recepticle is the only way to isolate it, but every piece of your gear, power amp pre amp etc. has a step down transformer in for the power supply which does the same thing. Focus on good gear, as power cables have one purpose, get power from the wall to the equipment, NO effect on audio,NO,NO,NO!!! Sorry IT CAN'T HAPPEN. If you like the looks or the build quality of the power cable, great, spend the money, but don't be hoodwinked into thinking it effects the audio!
@@bradt.3555 Being on a separate circuit breaker isolates most of that electrical noise. It’s an audible improvement that you can hear - you get blacker backgrounds and a clearer sound stage where each instrument is isolated and has clearer definition in 3D space. Power cables and a good surge protector also help, but the biggest improvement comes from having your stereo on an isolated breaker that helps eliminate electrical noise from all the other noisy appliances in your home like microwaves and refrigerators and lights.
@@BrentLeVasseur , I'm a retired union electrician, 50yrs experience in design and install etc. And as many yrs. with electronics and stereo as a hobby. There is so much BULLSHIT on the internet it makes me wanna scream. A dedicated circuit IS NOT isolated. You will get noise from anything on the load side of your power company's distribution transformer. Most electricity in my area is approx 14KV, then a transformer down to 120/240v which supplies about 8 houses. All 8 houses are connected together. If a neighbor operates something noisey it's on all 8 houses, on that phase. ( a&b phase, common neutral). That's how electricity works. The only thing that will isolate it is a transformer of some type, that creates a magnetic connection, no actual wire connection as with a dedicated circuit. Even the transformer in a power amp will do it. Certainly NO WAY a fancy 6 foot power cord will do anything. Power strips do nothing, a good power conditioner might, but figure up what your system draws then use ohms law and see how big a transformer would be needed, will it fit in the given conditioner? The power supply in most gear has all the filtering needed
@@bradt.3555 I wasn’t saying that a dedicated circuit is COMPLETELY isolated, as in there will be NO NOISE. What I was saying is that being on a dedicated circuit helps to isolate your hifi gear from other noisy devices in your home - that if they were connected to the same breaker would have a much bigger negative impact on sound quality then if they weren’t on the same breaker. But yes everything is ultimately connected so there will always be noise permeating from the system. By the way I love your idea of using a transformer to isolate noise! That’s something I will have to think on more.
@@BrentLeVasseur , They're called isolation transformers. A 1 to 1 ratio, 120v in 120v out. I believe you can find them with some filtering on the load side also.
Great video. I have been using various models of Audioquest cables, for a while now. Have you ever had any experience with their cables? If so, what's your opinion on them?
I did and do have some cables from them. Don't remember the names. Now I just have their HDMI cable. The cheaps one have a good price/performance balance. But just not my favorite, at least in the past. Maybe now they are better.
Power cables? LOL.
@@MrsZambezi Did you try ? LOL
@@frankgeeraerts6243 Of course not. I'm not an idiot.
Thanks, as you mentioned it is made in China I went to the link Tao Bao China bought 2 meters unfortunately I received fake cable anyway came back again on your message bought another 2 meters from the French link you posted, it is really fantastic worth for the money. After burning in two months sound became much more better more details..
Now I would like to know using it again for 11 meters from my main electric enclosure to my second Hi-Fi electric enclosure do you suggest a better cable, as I noticed on the market there are very thick and stiff cables 2.5mm thickness???
Should I go ?? thanks comments.
For a power cord, what is your choice: Yarbo SP-8000PW (223$) or WAudio 10 AWG (46$)
The brand doesn't matter. The combination of OCC copper with teflon insulation will always give uou the top performance, regardless the type of cable! That is one of my greatest tricks in hifi.
Hi. Which one is better as a power cable - Yarbo or Ramm Audio Amadeus 5 MK2? Thank you!
Yarbo all the way baby! Teflon is the secret...
If you like jazz, I recommend Patricia Barber, Cafe blue, especially for Too rich for my blood: wow !, and Nardis: marvelous! Diana Krall's record Turn up the quiet is also a gem! Good listening!
Thanks! Yes, love them both!
I'd like to try it and compare it to GR-Research power cables.
Power cables make no difference to performance.
@@MrsZambezi That's true, on bad gear is doesn't. Have a nice day.
How can anybody call anything the best unless you have tried everything. I admit that is a very nice cable. Does this overcome the deficiencies in the house or apartment wiring? I do realize also that good designed power cables can filter out or eliminate noise.
Something that suprised me in the past was crappy wiring in venues etc accentuate the value/effect of good cables. The distance between the wall to the amp etc is a bigger factor than what I suspected when it came to the grabage in garbage out aspect. Bad cables can become a litteral antenna of noise.
Did you notice the question mark? I any case I have tried several quality cables, certainly not all, like everyone in the world, but as I said in the video it is among the best. The first answer to this comment hit the point. We must change perspective. It isn't the wire from the Power plant to your house that matters but the first meter from your amp to your wall.
I was a union electrician for over 40 yrs, done every kind of power distribution you can think of, you guy's are nut's if you think a power cable will filter anything, and what's between the power plant and your wall matters more! Go learn about those little things called electrons! Geez! TOO MUCH! Ask guy's who build studios why they use standard power cords and focus on interconnects and speaker wire and proper routing of wire.
Do you connect the shield drain to the grounding pin? If so on both ends? Sorry I don’t understand if it is safe to connect the shielding drain to the earth pin on cable such as yarbo sp-1100pw.
Thanks
If you are sure that you have low interference in your system and you are aware that the cable may be dangerous if not earthed, yes, the power cable will sound better without the connection to the braid.
I hadn't seen this video before I'm looking to build some power cables one especially for my Gryphon amplifier.
The problem is where do I buy these quality components in Australia.
Cheers Shane.
I don't know in Australia but you can contact the places suggested in the video description and on ebay. Shipping will be expensive but always cheaper than a high-end cable that uses the same stuff or in most cases, worse
I tried TQ Ultra Silver, AQ Hurricane, Southwire Royal, local made, and wire that came with my Diablo 300. None made any difference. I believe in the manual even said it will work with any cable and it’s true. Excellent power transformer inside.
Where it made all the difference in the world is with my streamer and DAC. Every cable show it’s character that’s easy to hear. I’m gonna try Yarbo and see how it fair with the rest of the above lineups.
@@SuperSomphon thanks for the feedback👍
Hi, just came across this video. Ever since your video on SKW ''OCC'' cables, have you had a chance to review if Yarbo cables are really OCC?
And also, thanks for your videos, which i always enjoy.
I would love to do that but we would need another lab test ro determine that.
@@anadialog From your experience, does OCC always sound better than OFC and other variants, even those that cost more and have better shielding etc ?
Do you use an isolation transformer of some sort, or are you plugging those things directly into your wall?
Yes, I have a full set of Black Noise Systems and Magic power filters
Nice!
I want to build a high level subwoofer cable for my Rel with low inductance and high impedance. Which geometry would you recommend? ( 3 wire: 1-GND / L channel /R channel
Why high impedance?
Hello, any experience with yarbo interconnects, and they might compare to Ramom, thanks
Nope, not yet...
Ciao, ho usato questo YARBO SP-1100PW per fare dei cavi di potenza (ho diviso a metà i conduttori di terra). Ho usato delle forcelle Furutech in rame puro placcato oro e delle banane Elac Audio in rame placcato argento (entrambi senza sottostrato di nickel).
Trovo i bassi molto asciutti, privi di corpo, mentre gli alto sono molto definiti, forse anche troppo.
Pensi che possa dipendere dai connettori placcati argento? Oppure è proprio il cavo che suona in questo modo?
Grazie!
Hi Does this cable have a voltage rating on it as it is not legal to use a power cable in NZ that does not have an appropriate voltage rating. Thanks
Try contacting the manufacturer if this is a concern. I don’t know unfortunately.
Yeah while I can see why you would do this but where do you stop ?
What I mean is what about the plug socket you are connecting to what
about the cables in your house the mains supply to your house and in
the street and so on. There is Guy in Japan the has a deadened supply
all the way back to the power station ( you can find the video on CZcams )
It's very simple, the machine is the point of view not the electric power plant. For the amplifier, for example, it's the first meter, not the last. And for example a Class A push-pull amplifier is very demanding and requires a high quality, shielded if necessary, and low gauge, low resistances cable to work at its best and keep the power easily coming, for peaks, and clean. In fact I highly recommend also a quality power filter. A low quality filter will kill dynamics.
I read something about "high-end" power cables made them with Coax cables. It is that possible?
Well, yes, you just need two conductors (or better three, for ground). But as I always say what is important is the conductor, better OCC copper or silver, the insulation, better teflon, and the connectors, better OCC copper, gold plated for corrosion.
wonder how YARBO SP-1100PW compares with Neotech NEP-3200, both are UP-OCC but yarbo is hard to find in USA, I have been using Oyaie but wanted to try something new so yarbo or NEotech ?
Neotech is my favorite brand. Enough said. ;-)
Ich hab an meinen Geräten Supra LoRad 2,5mm² mit Viablue T6s Netzsteckern, Viablue T6s C7 am Klipsch Woofer und Supra C13 am Lake People G111 KHV und am Luxman L-410 an den Anschlußklemmen gelötet. Am Cambridge DacMagicPlus mit externem Netzteil geht das leider nicht. Aber auch alle Geräte hängen an einer Ehmann Netzfilterleiste.
Ach ja alle Kabelenden sind mit Viablue Andernendhülsen gecrimpt.
Can you show me what power cable do you use in your Technics SL1200g. I’m just about to buy one and I want to do a couple of upgrades from what you get out of the box like power cable , RCA cables etc
It's a decent cable, but very well shielded. In this case it is very helpful.
Cables make a difference but you may be better off putting your cable money into a better cart or phono pre. That said, I like Audioquest on my TT because they sound good and the DBS system keeps the cables broken in longer, and initial break in is much faster.
Gear is gear. I always said that. Cables are tweaks.
@@anadialog I never suggested otherwise. To be honest, I didn't even read your post. Looking at the original comment, it seemed he may be putting cables over other, more critical pieces. Or not. I may have misread the post.
Wouldnt you get better results installing a dedicated line?
Yup. That's what I have done. Multiple 10 gauge all the way. In fact I have my own 80 amp dedicated service panel. I do realize that most people cant do that, but really how does this overcome the home or apartment wiring deficiencies?
Something that suprised me in the past was crappy wiring in venues etc accentuate the value/effect of good cables. The distance between the wall to the amp etc is a bigger factor than what I suspected when it came to the grabage in garbage out aspect. Bad cables can become a litteral antenna of noise.
@@CIRCLEOFTONE You can use hospital grade cables if your worried about noise, those are not expensive.
Wouldn't you get better results not using cables? Of course! But in this video we are talking about cables, power cables, and a lot of people still use them! ;-)
@@anadialog you still need cables with a dedicated line, all a dedicated line does is provide cleaner power since your other Appliances dont pollute it.
Super power cabel thx
Are they even better than the quite expensive Furutech DPS4.1 bulk cable?
Probably not, but I am pretty sure, based on the emplyed materials, that they come very close if not identical...at a fraction of the crazy Furutech prices.
Oh you also use the neotech plugs! Have you tried the neotech occ bulk cable?
That is a little too expensive...
@@anadialog i think it cost 120 euro per meter. Nep-3001 mk3 silver pkated occ copper. Total with plug still under 500euros. That cable beat many times more expensive ones.😊
Oh I'm sorry, you said bulk, I thought you were referring to the finished cables! Yes, of course great stuff! If I don't go wrong, they did not have teflon insulation if not the top model...
can i plug this directly in too my pc so i mean the psu
Of course!
@@anadialog Allright Thank you 👌🏽
How do I convince the city to replace the cables to my house with that?
That is a common misconception. You must revere the viewpoint. It’s the first meter of cable for the amplifier (or whatever it is) the most important one, especially for amplifiers.
Is this wire better than Mogami 3104
The materials and design certainly are
Keep an open mind is my mantra in hifi.
Can I buy the Yarbo cables through you? I need 4 x 2 M cables fully built?
Thanks for the offer but it is unfortunately time consuming. Try asking ausiophonics in France. They make their own cables so maybe if uou ask they will do it for you for an extra.
Great video, definitely going to try them 👌
Give us some feedback after burn-in!
@@anadialog i ordered one, so definitely will report back. Got some high end connectors as well. I am curious what the result will be 😎👍
Cool!
@@anadialog Okay, i just hooked it up. It is definitely very very special. But i am going to refreain myself for any comments about the sound :) The build was difficult. So if you don't have a lot of patience, and/or willing to push through setbacks, ask a friend for help! I watched your cable building video a couple of times, and some other generic diy cable build vids. This helped a lot! I cut the grey isolation wire with a sharp box cutter knive. You can peel the 3 main wires easily by hand and with a small cut. Then the hard part. The trick is to get the measurements right for the small inner wires (eyeballing/or not). To the 3 holes for your plug. i botched this (twisted conducters in a swirl Why? and too short of length, scratches on conducters) lol. These wires are so rigid, and a couple are so small and fragile (ground) not easy at first. So I asked a friend to help me unFrick it. And started again with more length for the inner wires. And keeping them together in bundles. Then it was much easier. You can align the bundles with the 3 holes. And it was smooth sailing. Also the (inner) wire cutting went much easier the 2nd time :) Just a regular wire cutter with the tightning bolt uptop. I made them with ATL copper plugs :)
@@anadialog These cables are very good. Have over 100hrs on them. What strikes me is that it is powerful and musical at the same time. 🧢 Off for this suggestion! More will be ordered lol 😂
any good one from USA?
I am sure they are, just look for OCC copper and teflon insulation. Then you should be ok!
I don't doubt that you guys all hear a difference with these power cables but I struggle to understand just how these benefits come about. All I can think is that there must be some kind of filtering or conditioning going on in the conductors of the cable because the main power supply that you plug them into is typically very noisy and fluctuates continually.
I know that you do not attempt to explain it but I wonder if it is due to the length of cable involved since it is obviously not something that you believe your high end components can achieve in their own power supply circuits (which presumably are the best of the best and made with a typical mains power source in mind). It would be interesting if some one could compare the waveform of the power at the wall socket and the power coming out of one of these cables to see if there is anything measurable going on.
There is nothing going on apart from in the imagination of the cable purchaser.
I can offer 2 reasons why cables sound different, 1; perception, if you percieve a difference then you will hear it simple. 2; this is harder to explain but bear with me, there are many genuine reasons why cables sound different (i use different rather than better) like skin effect or the use of many types of jacket material, teflon is often regarded as one of the best, then there is capacitence or how easy electricity can pass down various materials, i.e. ofc copper, silver, occ coper etc. then we have induced noise of both emi and rfi and how well a cable design can reject these different interferances. next we have noise created in the ring circuit of your home i.e everytime your fridge trips in it creats "surge noise" the same happens everytime the heating switches on and off, that's why having a dedicated mains supply to your audio can make a huge change depending on how "dirty" your mains was before you isolated your audio equpitment,sometimes simple things can make the biggest improvments like fitting ferite rings on a mains cable, now if your going down the "dedicated mains route" I allways think it wise to use the best quality (as long as it's the right power rating) you can afford I mean whats the point of using standard twin and earth @ £1.00 a meter when you can buy well shielded good quality cable without braking the bank? and anyway just using HQ mains cables from the socket to your Cd or Amp might helpa bit but you will hear a much bigger difference if you use good quality cable all the way through are you not? I hope this helps some of you to understand mains cables at least.
What do you think please of cables by :
Shunyata, TaraLabs, Furutech, HMS (for speaker & power)?? Thanx 👍👍
Well, those are among the best of the best, but expensive as cars!
Their power cables sound exactly the same as kettle leads.
@@MrsZambezi you mean they are snake-oil and fraud with quality that they don't match and deserve their very high prices??
@@hanifarjo5434 They don't make any difference. They are for idiots to buy.
@@MrsZambezi Hmm .. Why then they get national or International prizes i'm woundering?🤔
Really, I learned a lot from this video. Thanks!!!
My power cables will be Yarbo. Since there are several choices with the connectors already installed, can you recommend a 0.5m model? Thank you so much!
My speaker cables will be SKW.
I had a tubes amp (Antique Sound Lab AQ1001DT with KT88 Gold Lion: an amp similar to your Prima Luna which I had an attraction ...), but I'm looking for a Hegel H190 amp that blew me away. Unfortunately, it does not decode the DSD, but it will via my Astell & Kern Kann Alpha in analog sockets.
Finally, thank you again for your precious advice!
Thanks! Nice setup! What do you mean a 0 5 model?
@@anadialog Mean 0,5 meter long. But what do you think of this 1,5 meter long: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L2SBWKK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A10PF5DWBE57W3&psc=1
a WAudio 10awg at 46$?
@@pinkyfloydyfan1 Yarbo or Neotech all the way. The one you linked, I also looked at them after your first comment, don't have OCC copper, which IMO as you know makes the difference (and teflon if possible).
Can one hear the bumps in the individual strands? 🤔
It is a fact that the signal is degraded. If it is perceived or not it depends on you and your system.
So you have to run that cable in your walls from the outlet back to the breaker box too? Just the last few meters to your gear won't cut it alone I am thinking.
It's exactly the opposite. It's very simple, the machine is the point of view not the electric power plant or breaker box. For the amplifier, for example, it's the first meter, not the last. And for example a Class A push-pull amplifier is very demanding and requires a high quality, shielded if necessary, and low gauge, low resistances cable to work at its best and keep the power easily coming, for peaks, and clean. In fact I highly recommend also a quality power filter. A low quality filter will kill dynamics.
I am a litle bit sceptic about need for quality of power cables. Simply, there Is a need for purifying 230 Volts, to monitor it, and on the market is so many UPS es or power extension cords with needed electronic.
If you have to get just one cable to upgrade your sound it would definitely be the amplifier power cable IMO
@@anadialog ok, if that makes you happy, I am happy for you. But from the retrospective of 40 years in electronics, I kindly ask you to explain to me my statement, if it is worth. Thanks in advance, and have to say that I appreciate your work .
Can you write it again please? I am not sure what you are claiming, thanks!
@@anadialog I agree. In my experience of playing with mains cables that’s where it should go.
Why do you like it? How does it sound?
Because it gives complete freedom to the sound to express itself, no coloration, because the power is massive and stable
@@anadialog Thanks. There are so MANY PC with different dimensions and materials. So only talking about materials will not give me any idea of how it sounds
Is the rest your house's electrical installation is made with OCC copper?
We must change perspective. It isn't the wire from the Power plant to your house, nor the house wiring, that matters (it does but not as much) but the first meter from your amp to your wall.
@@anadialog Could you explain the science behind that comment?
@@clausolsen856 Exactly what I was thinking. I can consider myself an audiophile to a certain extent, because I know that human perception is subjective, but not Science. Disclaimer_ I'm not trying to criticize negatively the video or the channel.
@@Gajodareactividade same here, there is to much good content on it, and a truly driven presenter😃
And everyone choose for them selves, plus I understand the psykologi that goes into having all these nice cables in your system, KNOWING they are there and what that does for your perception of the sound. I just wish that more would try the other way around....and then use the money on the most important thing, ie your room....
And oh....how many of you actually clean your contact surfaces on a regulary basis...? And know the importance of that....🙃
@@clausolsen856 , you're right. Money in improving acoustic on music room is always a good inventiment.
I am sorry Guido but I won't spend 400 Euros on a power cable. I will gladly spend it on new records though....
Please, please go back to cassettes and records!!!
Your videos on cassettes convinced me to buy a Nakamichi deck. I wish you'd make a video on transfering FLAC files to cassettes, the DOs and DONTs. Grazie!
Woah! Were did you get that price? No, no, the cable is 65€ plus the high quality furutech are 40€ each. Total 145€ for one of the best sounding power cables out there IMO.
Ciao, ci siamo già sentiti avevo già acquistato, ramm audio amadeus 5 mk2, oyaideEE F-S2.6 v2, già ottimi.Per curiosità ho acquistato anche yarbo 1100 pw, confermo ha una marcia in più,ascolto molti più dettagli, incredibile i dettagli che tira fuori sul medio/basso.Per la prima volta ho anche acquistato un cavo neotech, coassiale.Eccellente accoppiata e stanno suonando solo da poche ore.Un saluto buoni video.Grazie per i consigli.
Grazie Vincenzo per il feedback! Mi fa cantare il cuore!
@@anadialog 🎻🎻🥁🥁👍👍🎸🎸
Sembra veramente ottimo questo cavo!
Pensi che si possa utilizzare anche come cavo di potenza per i diffusori?
Se sì, come faresti? Lasceresti inutilizzati i conduttori di terra, o ne useresti metà e metà?
Esatto, è ottimo anche per quello! Metà e metà, lascio a te la decisione se collegare la calza o meno...
@@anadialog Perfetto ti ringrazio molto! Come cavo di alimentazione invece consigli di collegare solo la calza esterna o anche quella interna?
Come preferisci, anche nessuna se sei sicuro di non avere interferenze.
I've been using Yarbo for a few years. My favourite inexpensive power cable.
Is the snake oil in each individual wire or just one per pole?
Each individual wire 🤣
I am not going to argue if one meter super cable will make a difference in the whole chain of domestic wiring.
If I had that money in my hand and the objective was to bring maximum improvement to my HiFi installation and I would make a short list of upgrades that €600,- would bring, power cables would not be on it.
Here is a short list what €600,- can buy:
- New Old Stock vacuum valves
- Phono cartridge
- RIAA amplifier
- Upgrade capacitors, coils and resistors in speakers
- Buy a vintage stereo component
What I always wonder, how does the step improvement of such cable compare any of the above?
Of course! Who in the world ever said the opposite. It is rather obvious that components are more important.
@@anadialog Thank you for the perspective. Any way, keep up the great content. I always look out for your videos.
Ho i cavi di alimentazione, ramm audio, oyaide di cui ne hai parlato anche tu. Yarbo lo ritieni superiore ai due prima mensionati e se si in che cosa.Grazie, un cordiale saluto.
Sono tutti ottimi ma la combinazione rame OCC e teflon è in assolutamente la migliore per qualsiasi tipo di cavo si tratti. Semplicemente influisce meno sul suono rispetto agli altri, nei cavi di segnale, in quelli di alimentazione la qualità dell'alimentaziome e le sue dinamiche a seconda del macchinario a cui lo colleghi ha piena libertà di espressione. Se già hai ramm e oyaide, non andrei a sostituire. Quando hai bisogno di un nuovo cavo sai quale provare!
@@anadialog Grazie della risposta.Ti seguo già da tempo e sono iscritto al tuo canale. Ci sono tanti argomenti interessanti che tratti, che poi tra noi appassionati di musica/audiofili sono una manna dal cielo. Un piccolo consiglio per te, non so se l'hai sentito o usato.Io uso come cavo alimentazione di riferimento, anche se è il più costoso di quelli che possiedo e naturalmente superiore non di poco, furutech dps 4.1 con connettori ncf furutech fi50, assemblato da me.Ebbene devo dire che sul mio impianto ha fatto una grande differenza, tutto è più visibile, eccezionale controllo dei bassi, eccellente la gamma media. Dopo varie prove l'ho lasciato sull'ampli integrato, così caratterizza un po tutto l'impianto.Un cordiale saluto e buona musica.
Furutech è sempre un eccellenza, non dubito che suono bene. Per me però sono un po' troppo esosi. Se devo spendere Neotech è il mio riferimento per il DIY
@@anadialog Grazie della risposta un saluto.
Ciao ,quando hai detto che al di fuori dall'europa è più difficile trovarlo beh ,ho goduto un pochino.E da più di 1 anno che cerco di prendere un phono della Schiit .come sta andando la petizione su you tube??? Un saluto dal "bel paese"
Ahahha! Non benissimo...io e Johnny ci ripeoveremo in seguito va alimentato l'interesse!
@@anadialog lo so è difficile comunque vi stimo per il lavoro che fate!
From one obsessive to another Evidence cables ftw. For cheap just look up medical grade green dot power cables.
It's amazing the differences cabling can make. An eyeopening experience for me was when I swap's out the USB cable connecting my MacBook Pro to my DAC, I use an Oyaide Neo d+ class B, the difference in quality between that and the rubbishy printer cable I was using before was quite profound. Everything sounded more euphonic, better layer separation, dynamics and detail. An before any measurmentists and cable haters have me lynched...I challenge you to try it yourself.
If you're saying that the cable can alter the quality of a digital stream --> A stream os Zeros and Ones, then yes, I can assume that there is a big placebo effect.
@@Gajodareactividade It's not a stream of ones and zeros. It's an analog representation of a digital signal that can be effected by jitter and electrical noise and isn't error corrected. The higher quality cable transmits less, meaning the DAC chip doesn't have to work as hard, improving sound quality.
I wish it was all that simple. People think I enjoy spending money on cables....they are simply necessary and quality pays off. We should just not overpay them IMO.
I experienced the same switching from a printer cable to audio quest
Morgan Wright it’s like a clean supply to the liver. Better the supply, better it would function. Give it too much alcohol, it would falter
0.1mm nicks on a couple of those wires, if you're not that careful when stripping the individual insulation, will slightly diminish quality. I'd love to hear some physics behind this and audible differences.
Well, considering that any technician will kill you of you do not make a good soldering because the signal will be degraded, this fits perfectly in the same game. Let's here them first, since they are so fussy about that and none about quality cables!
@@anadialog You're comparing two different things and I'm one, while you're not. Please, since you bother to answer, stick to what you're being asked. Is a 0.1mm nick gonna make any difference?
Gotcha! I already said what I had to say in the video.
@@anadialog Here! Take a cookie! One without nicks. Really, how does it feel to be the Italian Moses, with his ten commandments? Go ask a technician then, unless his/her answer, doesn't follow your narrative.
I expressed my opinion in my video. If you look carefully you will see that you are the one that does not accept anything but your own preconceptions. Solve the soldering dilemma, then come back with an open mind! ;-)
Is it possible for you to make two power cords and I will pay. Thanks
Thanks for the offer but I barely have time to do mine. Trust me it isn't difficult, otherwise you can find skilled guys who make and sell their cables on ebay
Please post the direct site where the cable can be bought and the connectors.
It is already posted in the video description! The second link.
I have a question. When making the PC, where do you connect the ‘drain’ as this is confusing.
Thanks in advance.
For security reasons you should connect it to the ground
What about the furutech dps 4.1 it's a whopping $528.00 per meter, it was 480.00, plus the ncf ends. I bought 6 meters and 14 connectors, I have six of the ncf connectors on analysis plus power cords, I removed there plastic crap ends. Bought the analysis plus used, no way there worth 2600 bucks. I personally like the furutech power cable better. Furutech has priced themselves out of my league for now on and I'm looking for something as good for less.
I am sure theybare good and probably superior (but also probably not vastly superior). IMHO it's just not worth it! I do have high-end cables and I can say that in most cases the ones I make from bulk are better. You just need to know what to look for, hence my DIY videos.
Tchernov Reference power cord is the best.
So, I just couldn't resist and have assembled this exact cable... I have to point out, that the cable itself is superb, but neotech connectors are very bad, they have poor detalization, mediocre depth, they ruin dynamics and have bad separation. After I've changed them to viborg ve502, the difference was night and day. Anyway, with this cable my dac scaled beyond what I could have imagined
Thanks for sharing your experience. I am shocked that Viborg was better than Neotech but I believe you and will do more tests in the future...
My friend also told me the same thing, he is seriously experienced builder..
You can usually tell the ones who've never tried expensive cables, they usually the ones who've never actually tried them!
Sadly true
Sounds like THHN insulation.
Sorry, I meant using it for in-wall cable.
Last week i ordered 2 meters , i am really curious,
Nice! Give it some burn-in time (about 40/60 hrs) and then give us some feedback if you feel like it!
I orderd some ..........
Cool! Let us know the good and the bad if you feel like it
@@anadialog OK!
Where are all the neigh sayers with thier "snake oil",,,"wires in the wall, wires to the house" nonsense..?
What about a decent wire preventing noise pick up?
Sono un "audiofilo" da tanto tempo ma non ho mai acquistato un cavo di alimentazione per hi fi, ma cambia veramente il suono?🤔
P.S.
pubblicare un video del genere vuole dire avere voglia di litigare...😂
Prova, usando I materiali giusti e magari armeggiando un po' puoi fare il tuo ad un prezzo decente. A mio avviso, si, un buon cavo lascia il segnale integro. I cambiamenti più evidenti li ottieni con i cavi di alimentazione e di potenza. Fammi sapere!
Ciao, seguo sempre con interesse il tuo canale. Sono un neo-audiofilo e ho deciso di sperimentare con cavi di alimentazione hi end iniziando con questo da te proposto. Per una spesa ragionevole mi aspettavo comunque di poter avere un idea della differenza che un buon cavo può fare rispetto al cavetto per pc. Purtroppo devo dire che sul mio finale mark levinson 23.5 la differenza non la percepisco... 😩 se c’è davvero una differenza questa sarebbe così piccola da non modificare significativamente la resa dell’impianto. Volevo solo riportare la mia esperienza. Di sicuro questo è un ottimo cavo a un prezzo modesto..ma se non sento differenza tra questo e il cavetto per pc non penso un cavo da 1000€ cambi qualcosa nel mio caso. Penso valga cmq la pena spendere 100€ per un cavo di alimentazione, ma di più no
Ciao Stefano, hai fatto bene a riportarr la tua esperienza. Delle volte la differenza è davvero impercettibile. Altrimenti non si spiega perché così tante persone non credono nei cavi. Il Mark è tanta roba e super efficiente, e può darsi che riesca a destreggiarsi con cavi normali. Come dissi in un mio video sul mistero dei cavi, più la macchina è performante e meno si sente. Non vale sempre ma molte volte si. Ad ogni modo il test è definitivo, assolutamente. Non testare altro. Aspetterei un po' per il rodaggio ma se lo hai già fatto, allora stop.
@@anadialog grazie per la risposta. Di sicuro ci sono molte variabili in gioco tra cui qualità del cablaggio dell’impianto elettrico di casa (immagino molto bassa essendo molto vecchio) e qualità dell’alimentazione. Nel mio caso ho anche dubbi sullo stato dei condensatori di alimentazione che sono molto vecchi e mai sostituiti. Rodaggio non ancora effettuato. Voglio anche provare a metterlo sul DAC (Auralic vega) e vedere se li fa una differenza
Facci sapere, nel bene e nel male!
@@anadialog provato sul DAC e una piccola differenza l’ho notata sui bassi che sono un pochino più controllati e potenti, quindi anche i medi risultano un po’ più definiti per l’assenza di rispnanze basse invadenti. Tutto sommato una differenza piccola ma per quello che ho pagato il cavo (140€ con connettori Viborg), si può fare.
Fallo lavorare e assestare un po' e dovrebbe migliorare di una spanna...
Did you hear if you elevate your amp 2 degrees to the north and put one sliver of pure gold under the left front rubber foot it improves your sound .08%? Only cost $725 per millimeter
It's funny because you clearly don't know my channel and my totally different approach to cable sand other snake oil. Study then come back without preconceptions
i am sorry. this power cable it just the last 1 or 2 meters of the cable. the most length its in the wall. so the best cable doesn't have any influence. good thick normal cable its just good enough.
That is a very common mistake you are making. It's exactly the opposite. It's very simple, the machine is the point of view not the electric power plant. For the amplifier, for example, it's the first meter, not the last. And for example a Class A push-pull amplifier is very demanding and requires a high quality, shielded if necessary, and low gauge, low resistances cable to work at its best and keep the power easily coming, for peaks, and clean. In fact I highly recommend also a quality power filter. A low quality filter will kill dynamics.
Classic mistake.
@@jim586 for someone who is not elctric engineer
@@tzahy4968 Do you know what my two engineering degrees are in? How presumptuous.
I take it you’re not much of a proof reader either.
Good day.
@@jim586 so how can you say that this short lengh of wire that you have meters of poor wires on the wall?
"Oyaide" is pronounced, "Oh-Yah-e-Day".
Well, I am mainly Italian and I mispronounce several words but in this case I am preserving the original Japanese pronunciation.
new world wtf dude
New world and old world. These are terms present in books and journals
Send it over to AudioScienceReview for testing and measurements. We'll see if anything is really happening, until then its just anecdotal hearsay. If they stand behind their product they should include legit tests and measurements as well. Any independent tests I've read on OCC vs OFC yields such small differences they cannot cause an audible effect. Only way a cable like this should make a difference is if the amplifier or what ever is poorly engineered. Also seen more expensive power cables tested and they don't cause any audible difference in measurements that come out the other end of the amplifier.
I ain't sending anything anywhere. Not my battle. It's my opinion, take it or leave it. No problem here. Independent tests? Great send them over, I am always interested in reading.
Amir (ASR) is very popular at the moment.
He has a nice style but ultimately he is just catering for the people who have the belief system that all sound improvements are measurable and can be mapped on a chart and/or that a £1000 HiFi sounds the same as a £10,000 system. It’s wishful thinking, I’m afraid.
He even has an answer to critics that say that one should just listen to products and then make your mind up. That there is bias etc etc
Eventually I think Amir will either run out of products to debunk or just run out of energy(I’m sure there’s a joke in there somewhere).
Us humans are a peculiar bunch. This is a hobby and a fun one. We are adults and should be able to make our own minds up by listening, building, adding to systems and taking them away. We can then say to ourselves, did it sound better?
Cheers
@@jim586 You sound like the exact type that these type of cables are aimed at, badge seeking, overspending, audio fools. and as long as the sun keeps coming out there will always be shifty, shady products to debunk.
@@jim586 Wrong. He has years worth of gear pilled up waiting for testing. I have stuff Im waiting months to send in. Even some companies are starting to send him gear for testing. His website and CZcams traffic are way up. Even Three of four other CZcamsrs are starting to take the same approach. The days of subjective anacdotal audio will no longer be all we have to go by. There is a mountain of research out there 99% of audiophiles are ignorant of and don't understand science and measurements can tell a great deal of how somthing can or WILL sound. Now I know measurements aren't everything but they are WAY more reliable than subjective adjitives from humans. The tides are turning and will only give us better audio products. People also have the choice to ignore it all and just keep blindly speanding money. Spending thousands on an audio product with no provided real measurements is insane. I wouldn't buy any other products that expensive without some sort of PROVEN specs or measurements.
Before you buy an expensive power cord, consider what is on the other side of the wall outlet? Most likely 14 ga. builder grade Romex® running through the walls to a circuit breaker panel, then out the building to a transformer down the street. Then ask yourself, how does the last 6 feet of fancy wire make the power any better? Pro-tip, it doesn't.
That is a common misconception. You must reverse the point of view. It's the very first meter of cable for the machine, the most important of all from which it draws its power and in cases of amplifiers it must be performing for quality dynamics.
I am gonna get a Zarbo made in China for 1/2nd the cost or something. Why would i pay Europeans if the Chinese made it.....
It’s still German R&D and investment in China
This is really a rather ridiculous topic. In my house walls I have standard wiring, like you have, so what the heck is a few feet of different cable going to change from the wall socket to my device? Alright, in case of a power amplifier, I could perhaps reduce the voltage drop a few millivolts at peak power, but how the heck is that going to be audible? No, way way way more important is that my equipment has well working capacitors and if you are not happy with how well they keep the peak loads from causing a voltage drop, it's much better to add more capacitors to the capacitor bank. Only concern you might have is the in-rush current when the amplifier is powered on. You might fry the diodes or regulators (depending on category of amp) when you just add more capacitors in parallel to what you already have. But if you want actual audible benefits, this is where I would begin. Better is to measure the voltage first with an oscilloscope at full load to see if this is even an actual topic and the voltage is fluctuating per load. For a pre-amp I would prefer a thinner cable where I don't capture additional noise by the bigger dimension of metal. The serial resistance of a power cable has no impact on a pre-amp, CD player, streamer or DAC thus you can go thin for those devices. Thanks.
That is a common misconception. You just reverse the perspective. For your amp or any other machine it’s the first meter of wire, the most important of all.
@@anadialog No, the properties of the entire wiring is a total sum of resistance and any inductance or capacitance is negligible for mains power. Ironically, concerning the resistance, its actually opposite. More current occurs the closer you get to your fuse box up-stream of your wiring in the house and thicker cables should be used for higher currents to reduce cross-interference between different loads. But unfortunately, consumers can't actually fix that, even this is the reality of how electricity work.
Theoretically you could have some shielding of the cabling near your devices reducing any 50/60Hz hum, but in any well-designed equipment, this is not much of an issue. Then another argument could be actual switching noise if your device was running a switch mode power supply or switching noise came from an external source, but such higher frequency switching noise is usually easily filtered by any well designed power supply within your devices.
In fact, if anyone could detect any difference on the actual Vcc power rails within the electronics gear, they could make a case of the power cable having an influence but if the power rails are not having any change, you also wont hear any difference. While measurements are some times frowned upon among audiophiles (I'm one myself), reality is that many things can be measured way below a level audible for human hearing.
BTW, I use heavy power cables myself in my setups but it's mostly for cosmetic reasons. I have two power cables that each cost somewhere near US$1500 btw. Does it make an audible difference? Absolutely not, but it is like a Rolex watch making the system look more luxurious and convincing.
Question: HOW do you know a Chinese company that lies about being “German” isn’t lying about using OCC copper? Most Chinese no name brands LIE! Don’t trust em. Are they sponsoring you?
Exactly because they are still formerly a German brand that guarantees that. Just production is Chinese. Just like good old Apple computers.
@@anadialog So, YARBO is a German brand? or a chinese company BOUGHT the name? Like they bought the Nakamichi name?
They bought the name...but it's like Land Rover, it's still English even though the Indian Tata bought it.
@@anadialog Like Volvo.
What about the wall inlet come on really
Beautiful Snake Oil!
snaaake oiiil
Though you decided to watch it! ;-) Tell us, which quality cables have you tested to reach this conclusion?
OMG! The electric Energy goes many 100ds of Meters (or Ft.. ) from your next Grid Transformator to your Wall Outlet!° What should the last 5Ft change here?
HA! That´s easy to claim, and complex to understand if you have no clue how an Amp works.
the main thing is: What is it that we hear from our Speakers?
It is exactly the electric energy that is delivered from your Power Company!
But Something happens after the Wall outlet: The energy is equalized, filtered and modulated, in order to make music.
Otherwise, we only would hear a 50Hz (60 Hz in the US) hum from the Speakers. So, the 50/60 Hz AC Humm first is equalized and filtered to a (hopefully) flat 0Hz DC! This DC then is to be modulated through your Transistors - that are actually like Valves that let go the energy through or not, to the certain Frequencies that, for Example, a Violine produces!
Once more: The 60Hz (50Hz) "Humm AC is transduced(modulated)to 0Hz, and then further to 443.00 Hz (A-String of the Violine)!
This is that what we hear!
Now to the next step: EQUALIZATION! For example, we have three equalizers in our line available. The last one is the X-Over in a - for Example here - in a three-way Speaker.
The Woofer gets the (ideally) equalized Set of Frequencies that he can Digest without Distortion. And the same goes for the mid-Way,, and the Tweeter.
The second Equalizer we have available is - or better was in the Vintage Times - The Equalizers in the Preamp. The so-called Tone controls in for Bass and Highs. We (older Ones) know, that these tone-controls added or took away some Power in certain designed Frequencies, in order to make them sound more pleasing to our personal Taste - or to correct Room influence.
And now, the first Equalizer in such a line - except all the single components in a pre-amp and Power-amp, because all of them make their changes to the sound - the first in this line - for the cable deniers - is the Power cable!
The changes we hear between some Power cables is not that a certain cable delivers the energy "better" or faster or whatever. It is just an equalization that happens in this first 1,5 Meter or 5Ft. That´s the elephant in the room.
Every cable has influence due to Resistance, Induction, or capacity - all together involved in its filtering capabilities. The same equalization that an X-Over does for the single Driver, a similar equalization happens here to the full range of electric power due to the Power cable!
That´s not snake oil, and if you understand how an X-Over works, you now know that different Power cables have different sound-signature!
And I am sure, that there are no audiophiles out there, that cry: "X-Overs are snake Oil!" This would be stupid!
So all that said, how much, and if a single person hears a Difference between some cables, just depends on their capability of hearing, and how revealing their system is at all! An old Tape deck with a frequency response from 100Hz up to 10KHz certainly is not built to hear some changes here lol. The same can be said of speakers with a similar Frequency Range!
So we can say, any change in the line from the Outlet to the single Driver in your Box has an Influence on what we hear!
It's very simple, the machine is the point of view not the electric power plant. For the amplifier, for example, it's the first meter, not the last. And for example a Class A push-pull amplifier is very demanding and requires a high quality, shielded if necessary, and low gauge, low resistances cable to work at its best and keep the power easily coming, for peaks, and clean. In fact I highly recommend also a quality power filter. A low quality filter will kill dynamics.
@@anadialog Exactly! The machine, that begins with the first meter From the Wall outlet and ends at the FrontBaffle of the speakers! These are the relevant Components!
And the search after the perfect match of all these components is the reason why pure audiophiles become insane with time hahaha! ( and I did not mention the room yet lol)
OMG That water goes through miles of pipe, there's no way that the rusty lead pipes in my house can have any effect on the water what so ever LOL