Dave, the reason you want two V blocks is to dial in a longer piece of round stock on something like your milling machine. The set of Starretts you have are beat if they show that much variance. They are also missing parts. There is supposed to be a machined rod that goes between the two blocks in that small hole you see in the end of the Starretts, to aid you in dialing them in, and they are also missing the clamps that normally come in a complete set. The clamps look sort of like a horse shoe, and hook into the grooves in the side of the blocks and they can then be tightened down on a piece of round stock suspended between the blocks, so the round stock does not move. The top of the "horse shoe" shape of the clamps has a hole and a thumbscrew in them for pinching the round stock, (or whatever shape you have) into the vee grooves. The Starrett set was exceptional when it was new. Rode hard and put away wet, now. The Chinese are just now, in this century, figuring out what a surface grinder is for and how to use them. Your Starrett blocks are probably nearly 60 years old. BTW, you can use V blocks in the mill vise, too, but then you would only mostly use one of them. Happy chips, Dean
Hi Dave, if you turn the guage pin round in the V block (end to end) & measure again, that'll give you information about the pin. Similar to when testing a spirit level.
ok take a reading off your block first than move the indicator up and get closer with the incdator base the farther you have the base the more the movment is i think
A while back I discovered that vinegar is a super brass cleaner. It only takes a few minutes to get brass shiny just drop it in a pan of vinegar and wait a while.
You want a matched pair because they are precision ground at the same time. It helps eliminate error to keep accuracy close in tolerance for precision work. On your surface gauge there should be two pins that can extend past the bottom. You can use those to guide along the side of the surface plate to help keep it straight. Indicators should always be keep straight in line with the same area you testing. Any off angle or movement off axis will give you a false reading. One more tip. Keep your guage arm closest to base as possible to eliminate any flex in between indicator and base.
Well done Dave. I have watched your previous video's whether on you lathe etc or when you are checking out the precision of various blocks etc. Especially when you were working out your drill sharpening tools etc. Well done keep it up.
Back in the middle of last century before DRO made life much easier we had to mark everything out. We would have a matched pair of V blocks and put a four-foot shaft on them on a surface table and ink it up and mark out all the features like keyways, tapped holes and c clip grooves. That's why a matched pair.
Interesting video Dave. The little hammer brought back memories. My Mother always had one of those in a kitchen drawer back in the 40's and 50's when I was a kid. I believe before China started producing these that they were originally made by the GAM Manufacturing Company in Lancaster, PA. The original ones did not have a Phillip's head as part of the set.
Do you think you might be tilting the gauge pin a little by gauging it off the edge of the block.? You might press down in the center of the pin or use the clamp then check the Gpins on each end.
Hi Frank, yes I've learned a lot over the years and have since upgraded to a grade A block. You're the first one that payed attention to the age of a video!
Material will move overtime, that is normal that your Starrett V-Blocks are off. Old v-blocks and other tools have to be regrinded after a couple years.
Good to see You being on the lane. Yes, matched in what respect? My US made V blocks look like matched even for the improperties…. Is it only the V versus the other side of the block that has something in common? I don't expect them to have every corner squared.
Have you taken into account the sag on your DTI arm at that extension; if it was shortened & closer to the vee blocks you may well get a better readings
Dave, the reason you want two V blocks is to dial in a longer piece of round stock on something like your milling machine. The set of Starretts you have are beat if they show that much variance. They are also missing parts. There is supposed to be a machined rod that goes between the two blocks in that small hole you see in the end of the Starretts, to aid you in dialing them in, and they are also missing the clamps that normally come in a complete set. The clamps look sort of like a horse shoe, and hook into the grooves in the side of the blocks and they can then be tightened down on a piece of round stock suspended between the blocks, so the round stock does not move. The top of the "horse shoe" shape of the clamps has a hole and a thumbscrew in them for pinching the round stock, (or whatever shape you have) into the vee grooves.
The Starrett set was exceptional when it was new. Rode hard and put away wet, now. The Chinese are just now, in this century, figuring out what a surface grinder is for and how to use them.
Your Starrett blocks are probably nearly 60 years old.
BTW, you can use V blocks in the mill vise, too, but then you would only mostly use one of them.
Happy chips,
Dean
Hi Dave, if you turn the guage pin round in the V block (end to end) & measure again, that'll give you information about the pin. Similar to when testing a spirit level.
I was thinking the same..
Those were Meyer minus pins that I had checked all when I first got them but your right could be a few 1/10's off...
ok take a reading off your block first than move the indicator up and get closer with the incdator base the farther you have the base the more the movment is i think
Great demo. I would think that unless your granite is precision ground it could be injecting some change also. Enjoyed it.
A while back I discovered that vinegar is a super brass cleaner. It only takes a few minutes to get brass shiny just drop it in a pan of vinegar and wait a while.
You want a matched pair because they are precision ground at the same time. It helps eliminate error to keep accuracy close in tolerance for precision work.
On your surface gauge there should be two pins that can extend past the bottom. You can use those to guide along the side of the surface plate to help keep it straight. Indicators should always be keep straight in line with the same area you testing. Any off angle or movement off axis will give you a false reading. One more tip. Keep your guage arm closest to base as possible to eliminate any flex in between indicator and base.
Well done Dave. I have watched your previous video's whether on you lathe etc or when you are checking out the precision of various blocks etc. Especially when you were working out your drill sharpening tools etc. Well done keep it up.
Back in the middle of last century before DRO made life much easier we had to mark everything out.
We would have a matched pair of V blocks and put a four-foot shaft on them on a surface table and ink it up and mark out all the features like keyways, tapped holes and c clip grooves. That's why a matched pair.
Interesting video Dave. The little hammer brought back memories. My Mother always had one of those in a kitchen drawer back in the 40's and 50's when I was a kid. I believe before China started producing these that they were originally made by the GAM Manufacturing Company in Lancaster, PA. The original ones did not have a Phillip's head as part of the set.
Very cool
To cool Dave. Thanks.
Do you think you might be tilting the gauge pin a little by gauging it off the edge of the block.? You might press down in the center of the pin or use the clamp then check the Gpins on each end.
I know this is 2 years old but for the test and camera, did not see that you wipe the v blocks and granite stone from ANY dust or debris.
Hi Frank, yes I've learned a lot over the years and have since upgraded to a grade A block. You're the first one that payed attention to the age of a video!
Material will move overtime, that is normal that your Starrett V-Blocks are off. Old v-blocks and other tools have to be regrinded after a couple years.
I didn't know that..
Those starrett V blocks had been used and abused . New starrett are with in a .0001. I had a matched pair at one time.
God bless
Stay safe
Good to see You being on the lane.
Yes, matched in what respect? My US made V blocks look like matched even for the improperties….
Is it only the V versus the other side of the block that has something in common? I don't expect them to have every corner squared.
Have you taken into account the sag on your DTI arm at that extension; if it was shortened & closer to the vee blocks you may well get a better readings
Good point!