Very interesting but I think the truing stand is centered at that one spot only (valve stem)- not the rest of the wheel. I used to do it this way but without that micrometer.
when centering/dishing the wheel that has different spoke angles if you want to make a proper job... you should inflate the tire to the target pressure and check the centering/dishing because it changes according to pressure. that's why you usually take up to 1mm off (usually 0.5mm will do). and by the way, i HATE this x9, x10, x11, x12 thing. in an ideal world you would have THE OPTION of having a dishless hub with just 6 sprockets (16-17-19-21-24-28 would be the perfect fit) with a 3x6 drivetrain having for example 52-42-30 chainrings so the spoke angle on the DS is not too steep. boost hubs is a step in the right direction but anyway... the problem still exists. road bikes cannot have too large q factor by boosting the axle spacing.
Interesting, but what tool are you using to spin the wheel? Looks like a hex driver, I cannot find any tool that easily spins 9,12, 15 mm axles while in the truing stand. I have found that an 12 to 9mm axle adapter with a tiny bit of grease on the end of the adapter allows the wheel to be positioned the same when swapped left to right. Same with 15mm axle.
Doesn't the truing calipers (not dial gauge) themselves, center the wheel. I remember when I bought my TS-2 probably 20 years ago, the main reason for the upgrade were the Self-Centering calipers: meaning the calipers centered the rim between the hub nuts, which would eliminate the need for a dishing gauge
Joe Eckenrod it’s a horrible design and definitely doesn’t hold center accurately. I wrote a blog post about it a few years back but in essence the backlash in the screw for changing arm spacing will throw off your center.
The gauges I use are available commonly online as a part for the Park TS2 truing stand. They call them a TS-2Di. czcams.com/video/2AvVR4FMzlg/video.html I have replaced the gauges that came with using Mitutoyo indicators widely available on the market.
Centering or dishing is getting the rim centered over the hub. Truing the wheel laterally and radially is what you’re referring to. Your “up and down” is truing a wheel radially. Your “side to side” is truing a wheel laterally. Once again though - dishing the wheel is centering the rim over the hub to that the rim isn’t to one side or the other. You see you can have a perfectly true wheel (no runout laterally or vertically) that is also off center to the hub.
Dude is the Sensei of wheel truing. To the point, no BS. Simple and easy.
You really are a professional man, thank you for posting the video..
Good stuff as always.please make more videos.
Very interesting but I think the truing stand is centered at that one spot only (valve stem)- not the rest of the wheel. I used to do it this way but without that micrometer.
Genius and to th point.
What king of the dial Indicator the yellow one? It looks like a Mitutoyo. What model number? Thank you for your great advice!
excellent
very nice
Will try this building my first wheel although i have a dishing tool.
WOW!!!! Thanks.
when centering/dishing the wheel that has different spoke angles if you want to make a proper job... you should inflate the tire to the target pressure and check the centering/dishing because it changes according to pressure. that's why you usually take up to 1mm off (usually 0.5mm will do). and by the way, i HATE this x9, x10, x11, x12 thing. in an ideal world you would have THE OPTION of having a dishless hub with just 6 sprockets (16-17-19-21-24-28 would be the perfect fit) with a 3x6 drivetrain having for example 52-42-30 chainrings so the spoke angle on the DS is not too steep. boost hubs is a step in the right direction but anyway... the problem still exists. road bikes cannot have too large q factor by boosting the axle spacing.
Interesting, but what tool are you using to spin the wheel? Looks like a hex driver, I cannot find any tool that easily spins 9,12, 15 mm axles while in the truing stand. I have found that an 12 to 9mm axle adapter with a tiny bit of grease on the end of the adapter allows the wheel to be positioned the same when swapped left to right. Same with 15mm axle.
really cool !
if it works well, I wouldn't do replace my WAG5 for a WAG4 and a dial indicator on it.
Nice! I have the Park Tool TS-2.2 truing stand. Do you know if there is a gauge-or respective adapter-available for it?
CyberGolem absolutely. The same gauge package will work on the 2.2. I believe they call it a ts2di or some such.
Doesn't the truing calipers (not dial gauge) themselves, center the wheel.
I remember when I bought my TS-2 probably 20 years ago, the main reason for the upgrade were the Self-Centering calipers: meaning the calipers centered the rim between the hub nuts, which would eliminate the need for a dishing gauge
Joe Eckenrod it’s a horrible design and definitely doesn’t hold center accurately. I wrote a blog post about it a few years back but in essence the backlash in the screw for changing arm spacing will throw off your center.
Joe Eckenrod found the post - www.psimet.com/blog/park-ts2-2p/
@@PSIMET interesting, makes sense though. I guess I should start checking the dishing on wheels then
do you have a video regarding the centering of the rear hub?
It’s exactly the same.
Awesome~~!!! gauge.................Where can I buy it ???
The gauges I use are available commonly online as a part for the Park TS2 truing stand. They call them a TS-2Di. czcams.com/video/2AvVR4FMzlg/video.html I have replaced the gauges that came with using Mitutoyo indicators widely available on the market.
That's NOT centring a wheel.
Centring would be (astoundingly) getting the hub in the centre.
Up & down not side to side
Centering or dishing is getting the rim centered over the hub. Truing the wheel laterally and radially is what you’re referring to. Your “up and down” is truing a wheel radially. Your “side to side” is truing a wheel laterally. Once again though - dishing the wheel is centering the rim over the hub to that the rim isn’t to one side or the other.
You see you can have a perfectly true wheel (no runout laterally or vertically) that is also off center to the hub.
didnt help at all