How to Improvements Cheap Table Saw Part 2
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- čas přidán 7. 09. 2024
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In the daily video I will show you a video on how to improve my circular saw. In THIS video you will see how I make the additional accessories that would be useful for the work of your circular saw. this video is part 2 (The last part of the renovation).
The wood I use is from the old generation. Very strong MFD Boards that have a fairly strong wear-resistant coating.
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Thanks for the video I think it was well made with limited tools and materials which is typical D I Y there will always be someone to say you should have done this or done it like that but people forget the DIY element to have been any better than you have produced would have been done by someone who have or own professional equipment and don’t have the same problems as yourself with limited parts and equipment. Good luck and thanks from the Uk
Thanks, yes that's what I'm trying to say. DIY projects have available materials and without many special tools. I'm just passing on the knowledge of how to do it in the easiest way and work well. 👍
Same saw, I've lifted holding it by the top, it curved. Need to do an upgrade like you. For the fence I plan to use a bike clamp instead of a bolt, same design with a long. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
I have the exact table saw. Time to make some modifications. Thanks for the upload!
You turned a crap saw into a beautiful saw thank you for the video
Interesting ideas, I actually may use them, cause I have such a cheap table saw. Thanks for sharing!
Or you can use a candle...great job
I have a very similar saw with same problems and have be thinking of do this, your video has inspired me to do it now. Thank you much for sharing. I have subscribed and interested in see more of your videos. Please I hope you don't mind me saying.....please be careful think safety when using the saw and router. I am an Ex Safety Officer stay safe mate
I have the same table saw and I think the same frustrations. Your solution for the crosscut sled is very interesting, my own using the built in mitre slots hasnt worked and my attempts to flatten the table and extensions failed. I presume that like me you are somewhere in Europe based on the power cord and Parkside tools.
As others have commented, for safety's sake do put the riving knife back on.
Inserts could be used versus the riving knife.
I really enjoyed your video, You did a great job, I hope you don't mind me making a small suggestion. There is so much information out there and so little spare time. So it's not necessary to show every hole being drilled and every screw going in. I watched at double speed and had no trouble understanding what you were doing. A little creative editing would make this a great video.
Again I hope you don't mind me saying and make more excellent vids :)
Chipboard will swell and warp bad idea
Great idea and well made, ut just one criticism on an otherwise great video, your drilling!!! WOW, hope you have understanding neighbours 😂😂😂 .Anyway, thanks for the video.
Top job on the table pal.. Shame u didn't get some mitre slots cut into it and u were able to router in some type 30 mitre tracks.. That would've really made a very good job look brilliant but I'm probably being way too picky.. U have that crass cut sled to be able to cut angles now and do the picture frames and suh when needed.. Well done my friend.. U made a fine job of this old table saw with limited tools available too which is very commendable.. Keep u the great work my friend.,.
Thanks for the comment my friend🍀👌❤️
Excellent work
perfecto trabajo mi amigo
i have a similar table saw which could do with some improvements, i will probably do something similar
l could use some measurments and parts list,please l like your idears.
Thanks for this information
That was Fantastic!!!!!
Your back fence you should number it and add a clamp that way you will have a way to cut different lengths and they will all be the same without measuring each time
from where can i buy the fence with ruler please?
ta muito fixe
Lost the thickness in cuts could just have made sliding top on original runners for perfect cuts lots of work but achieves no more
great idea with the miter gauge installed on the sled, i am definitely going to try that out since i have a spare of these shitty plastic ones... might be useful set at 45 degrees on a dedicated sled. that being said, you lost almost 4 cm of saw blade with this set-up... plus i don't thing wood glue adheres to the metal screws that much
4cm by 10cm is not a problem. It works for 4cm by 10cm is not a problem. It works for me. 😉
Your cross cut sled is interesting, but don't you lose a great deal of depth of cut by putting the additional space under it? I mean, with a normal cross cut sled your sled rides on top of the saw surface and you still lose the thickness of the sled board. Also, there can be a significant error just using a T-square to prove a 90 degree angle. Most cross cut sled videos include the 5 cut method to prove and fix the minor error that can be there, but unproveable with a T-Square. The angle cutter as you called it, is also known as a miter gauge. On the fence, you could have also simply boxed it in saving at least its width on the cutting surface. You don't have a riving knife and no evidence of dust collection. Plus, if you are going to work without a blade guard and you are going to use the cross cut sled, how about a piece of plexiglass from one side to the other about 5 inches centered on the blade.
Sorry, I like most of your videos and while I am not the one that gave you a thumbs down on this one, but it is close.
Everything you see works beautifully once everything is set to the disk. I appreciate your commentator,And here came the time to point out that the work of a machine is wonderful. I'm not a woodworker and I don't make big elements. I just use it for small wooden elements for the mechanisms and devices I make. 👌
This particular saw comes with dust extraction and you can see it sticking out at the rear of the table. There should be a hose going from there to the blade guard which he can attach again once he has installed the riving knife.
@@lawrence.porter I fail to see what the thickness of the boards laied on top of the saw and their effect on the depth of cut has anything to do with the dust extraction and blade guard. In fact, as the blade rotates around its center point, creating a circular motion, only its radius is involved in cutting. However, the maximum depth of the cut is still not equal to the radius as the pivot on which the blade is mounted is below the arbor, the shaft that holds the blade. This difference further decreases the maximum depth of the cut. Hence, a standard 10-inch blade can make a cut as deep as 3.5 inches (89 mm). If you stack two .75 inch (19 mm) for rhe surface board and the sled on top you lose 38 mm of cutting depth leaving only 51 mm of cutting depth. The addition of a simple piece of plexiglass to the sled could have given him a blade guard and I doubt that with the additional pieces on top of the table of the saw, that that dusst port on the back does much but keep a little dust off the motor. He might be better off with a hose suspended from the ceiling. I wish hardboard or some other material would be thick enough to serve the purposes of the new top to the saw and the sled would come along that would be stiff enough to do those two jobs with a lot less loss to the depth of cut.
@@JosephLorentzen I didn't make any correlation to the thickness of the boards and any effect of dust extraction. One of your comments mentioned the lack of dust extraction and I was just telling you it was present although not hooked up. I also said if he attached the riving knife and the original blade guard the dust extraction can be attached. If he makes a slightly larger slot where the blade is there's no reason why the original dust extraction won't work as it did before. Did I mention I have the same table?
Make it wooden with the help of the Woodglut instructions.