I run 110mm shocks on all my rigs. I let them droop down almost all the way. So the truck rides at stock height, but then when it's time to go over a giant obstacle, it has insane flex and stability. 10 fold improved the performance of my crawlers
It looks like a perfect platform for an emergency response bushfire truck. Water tank on the back with a couple of hoses and pumps would look the business
I like to use a thin piece of rubber under the battery(such as a piece of clean inner tube) so it won't slide around. Each crawler has it flaws right out of the box. It is what I like to call a lousy normal. I would like to see a "Crawler Canyon Recovery Vehicle" a welder, some oxy, acetylene tanks, gas cans, chains, tow ropes, your light bar, high lift bumper jack, and of course.....lettering on the doors.
Because I had to do some creative choppin' to get a 3S shorty in the space of a 2S hardcase, there's just a little tab still under the battery, luckily the battery is too wide to fall through the hole.
Those pieces that were hitting the links are for leaf springs on the Jimny. I have burnt out a couple winch motors trying to use non momentary switches to run a winch. Never tried decasing the winch control ESC. With a hard body and a full interior, an extra ESC on the chassis probably doesn't hurt the CG. You could probably use a prick punch to peen in those cross pins in the front universals.
Injora made their own slider kit, all aluminum. Similar layout with the transmission/tcase layout. They used tiny bushings in their transmission instead of tiny bearings lol.
On the scx6 groups, a lot of guys do a small tack weld on the universal joints. They back out like that too. Those are probably too small for it, but idk maybe possible.
Loved these 3 Atlas videos. I felt like you were more surprised, than you expected, of how this RTR grew from nothing to someone special. Can't wait to see how "he" turns out with more scale details added. I just got the FJ40 and was looking for any info that could transfer for what i want out of the FJ, but now i am torn between wanting a crazy detailed trail truck and with a quick body change, turn Jekyll and Hyde style to a capable "enough" crawler. FMS is an exciting brand right now... for the money. now off to another rabbit hole seeking information, Thank you.
been spending the better part of my day watching or rather listening to your videos and I’m very grateful. You remind me of Nick Burns in the drone quadcopter Fpv world!
Loving this series, mine just came in yesterday and I've yet to try crawling for the first time. Once I grow into this particular discipline I'll for sure know where to start with upgrades!
Checking in after 7 months, I now own a vanquish vs4-10 Phoenix straight axle and LOVE it. I'll be doing everything in this video to the atlas, so as to not just put it on the shelf.
Looks great! Soooooo much better performance to! I have dipped into both comp crawler and scale crawlers. Let's just say I have 1 comp and 3 scale! For me it's not about being the best and man I get so much joy and happiness seeing the light, winches etc! Trucks is coming along nice there Mr canyon 💯
Wow what a difference. Seeing as he is orange/red make it a tow truck with the sound module. Give it a patina and you will have a great tomato I mean tomater
That is awesome! You have made a damned good Trail Truck and decent Crawler. Makes me want to pick up one just to see what I can do with one, I love taking stuff and making it what I want it to be, well like you do. That is why I think your Channel is one of the best RC Crawler Channels out because you show people how you can fix something and make it waaaaay better. I had to quit Building Drag Engines and doing Fab work on Drag Cars and Trucks do to having a tearable back injury so RC Crawlers, Drag Vehicles and RC Airplanes keep my Brain and hands happy. 😂
And honestly, it didn't require tweaking. Shock positions were the worst of it, undoubtedly carryovers from the Mashigan. It's a surprisingly capable thing considering it's size and weight. Still needs a tow boom, or more accurately, a tow boom, and I don't know if that's a thing.
Thanks for pointing out the plastic tabs that oppose the front suspension travel, and the styrene for shock mounts! I cut off those plastic tabs and definitely helped!! I have shocks and styrene on the way. Great info as I’m pretty new to the RC hobby, really helpful. Thank you sir 👍
Years ago I had a kit with cvd pins that liked to slide out. I was able to just use heat shrink around the outside, and it lasted forever. Just a thought.
Oh man I just bought the blue one it's beautiful and a beast find putting it on beginner mode makes it work alot better for crawling but the normal sometimes is needed for that little boost
Btw the window tint are stickers from outside. Peel them of and it looks more toned down can add an interior and a figure Into have to cut a little to get the fusion in. I had to dremel a lot to get older gen fusion 1800kv into the motor mount. It’s still angled of.
Thanks for the videos. I am a complete NOOB with RC vehicles and your videos are the most helpful I've found. Like vegasmike I have the version that came with no panhard bar. After watching your video that seems to be a good thing. I am thinking I will add one, using the mounting tab you pointed out on the passenger side of the front axle and going to a mount under the forward portion of the battery tray next to the servo. That would make it about the perfect length ( I watched your panhard tech notes). Do you think that would work?
The orange is growing on you for sure. It’s great and it’ll look perfect with logs or a tow body. Only other thing to do really is go olive drab and put the canvas personnel body on it maybe a MASH theme with Hawkeye and Pierce in the cab. This channel is the reason I set up a CZcams account, thanks for all of the hours of knowledge and a high degree of entertainment along with it.
Appears there are 2 versions of this truck. If the tabs are remnants of the jimmny leafs, mine is parts from the mashigan because i don't have them Also my truck is a 4 link front, no pan hard. My truck was a very early release, Bought it day one of availability.
Wow what a difference and so on the cheap great job and You are right it's the best looking PowerWagon I have seen now do I get one and go with my ideas for a build hmmmm
Roc hobby has revised the front axles and they seem to have fixed the pin walking out issue. Unfortunately no new part numbers, the only difference is the new axles are black while the old ones were more of a dark chrome.
light bar, tow boom, sound....go whole hog! The u-joints falling out is odd, must have been a manufacturing defect. I have three fms trucks with the same shafts and only blew one of them apart after 2yrs running a holmes pro! Anyway, go full tow truck...it will be killer.
Well you have made a decent crawler out of the Atlas and i'm impressed. I was thinking could you use some heat shrink to hold the pins in? Also what about duratrax foams theyre a medium and you probably have some spares, If not im sure double buns will work.
@@CrawlerCanyon I'd contact Amazon and get them sent back, not what you ordered despite any price you paid. They will probably refund you and postage should be free to return. Ive had to do it a couple of times, never had any trouble.
He does well.. old vid dont know yet were you went with him but i like logg truck without the tow truck overhead light bar. A visor might look good though..
I'm thinking about purchasing the Atlas and I figured I'd watch your video to see the pros & cons. Did you figure out a remedy for the front axles losing the pins ? Thank you for the great content from your new subscriber !
I guess sometimes low-teck works: I hit each end of the pin with a spring-loaded punch (technically, where the pin and hole meet), and I guess it flared the ends out enough that the pins stopped falling out.
Don't most cheap unis have metal sleeves over the pins? I'd love to see you do the tow-truck rig. Embrace the scaleness!!!! I think the front bumper needs more chrome/steel. You could make it a tow rig and then have 'lil fell and he be a team during comp events, lol.
On the CVD cross pin problem. The Redcat Gen 9 guys are having that issue also. The use heat shrink, if there is room? I would probably try cleaning them with brake clean, put a thin layer of rite stuff silicone sealer around the outside , then put wire heat shrink? Thank you again for the great content. Always entertaining and inspiring. Have a great day Mr. Canyon
This guy has universals. Fixing a slippy pin on a CVD is no problem, but a universal doesn't have the flt area to shrink/glue/bond anything to-- just two U-joints spinning around one another. Ordinarily the pins are swaged into the pivot ball, but not on this guy.
@@CrawlerCanyon how about meticulous cleaning then braze or solder the ends so the pins don’t falls out. Then when you need them out, reheat and modify an set of shock pliers. socket eye part of it to press out u joint pins? Just another thought.
Say it again and I'll always say it that everybody that watch this needs it without somebody and helps him get in front of more people that he can possibly help when it comes to RC
I like the look but you just showed me this truck is beyond a few easy fixes . I don't have near your ability but at the same time I'm learning what can and can't be fixed . Glad you called out the people who sent those shocks .FMS has real nice products that look good and it stops there for me.
It’s ironic at 15:00 mins you talk about dremelling that plastic piece from another model I just did it assuming it was a design flaw and watched your video after I cut it pretty bad with a cutter couldn’t wait lol
Is there a way I can send you my scx10 ii honcho so you can fine-tune it charge me and send it back to me? Just wondering if this is something you can do because the person I got it from did all kinds of things to it and the front suspension just does not feel right, thanks just wondering
There would be no charge for the "tuning." Cover parts and shipping and consider it job done. I've already renovated one Honcho, I know where to start. Shoot me an email to crawlercanyon at gmail dot com and we can work out the details. Sight unseen, I can't estimate what it will need parts-wise. If I have it, I can potentially donate it-- but if it needs shocks/springs, links, etc, I'd have to source those.
If these were CVDs, easy fix. These are universals, so two U-joints connected by a pivot. No room to do anything and still be able to you know... turn.
I run 110mm shocks on all my rigs. I let them droop down almost all the way. So the truck rides at stock height, but then when it's time to go over a giant obstacle, it has insane flex and stability. 10 fold improved the performance of my crawlers
I run 106mm and use a internal spacer to limit extension down to 100mm. Agree the longer travel at full droop works best
90mm worked for me, however in this case more would be better.
I’d like to see this one as a tow truck with a sound box. He can recover trucks that get stuck.
It looks like a perfect platform for an emergency response bushfire truck. Water tank on the back with a couple of hoses and pumps would look the business
I like to use a thin piece of rubber under the battery(such as a piece of clean inner tube) so it won't slide around. Each crawler has it flaws right out of the box. It is what I like to call a lousy normal. I would like to see a "Crawler Canyon Recovery Vehicle" a welder, some oxy, acetylene tanks, gas cans, chains, tow ropes, your light bar, high lift bumper jack, and of course.....lettering on the doors.
Because I had to do some creative choppin' to get a 3S shorty in the space of a 2S hardcase, there's just a little tab still under the battery, luckily the battery is too wide to fall through the hole.
Those pieces that were hitting the links are for leaf springs on the Jimny.
I have burnt out a couple winch motors trying to use non momentary switches to run a winch.
Never tried decasing the winch control ESC. With a hard body and a full interior, an extra ESC on the chassis probably doesn't hurt the CG.
You could probably use a prick punch to peen in those cross pins in the front universals.
i love the look at this truck i want it to be good thanks for making it better
You have successfully polished a turd, and that's a genuine compliment. It's running great. I couldn't believe how well it did on the staircase.
Truck works really well with the changes you have made to it.
Injora made their own slider kit, all aluminum. Similar layout with the transmission/tcase layout. They used tiny bushings in their transmission instead of tiny bearings lol.
Paint Him rusty like the Semi Tanker in the 1971 movie “Duel” starring Dennis Weaver ? Headlight buckets and everything 😮
On the scx6 groups, a lot of guys do a small tack weld on the universal joints. They back out like that too. Those are probably too small for it, but idk maybe possible.
With my welding abilities, if I got near that I would turn it into a single piece.
lots of great info. thanks.👍
Loved these 3 Atlas videos. I felt like you were more surprised, than you expected, of how this RTR grew from nothing to someone special. Can't wait to see how "he" turns out with more scale details added. I just got the FJ40 and was looking for any info that could transfer for what i want out of the FJ, but now i am torn between wanting a crazy detailed trail truck and with a quick body change, turn Jekyll and Hyde style to a capable "enough" crawler. FMS is an exciting brand right now... for the money. now off to another rabbit hole seeking information, Thank you.
been spending the better part of my day watching or rather listening to your videos and I’m very grateful. You remind me of Nick Burns in the drone quadcopter Fpv world!
Loving this series, mine just came in yesterday and I've yet to try crawling for the first time. Once I grow into this particular discipline I'll for sure know where to start with upgrades!
You are going to have a BLAST!!!!!! Congratulations on your first Trail Truck/Crawler. ✌🏼🤙🏼
Checking in after 7 months, I now own a vanquish vs4-10 Phoenix straight axle and LOVE it. I'll be doing everything in this video to the atlas, so as to not just put it on the shelf.
I’ve had my eye on one of these rigs. Looking like a lot of work lol
Looks great! Soooooo much better performance to! I have dipped into both comp crawler and scale crawlers. Let's just say I have 1 comp and 3 scale! For me it's not about being the best and man I get so much joy and happiness seeing the light, winches etc! Trucks is coming along nice there Mr canyon 💯
Yesss, this is the update I've been waiting for.
Looks awesome very planted/capable for length weight, you knocked it outa the park! But please no sound they always sound fake😂
Wow what a difference. Seeing as he is orange/red make it a tow truck with the sound module. Give it a patina and you will have a great tomato I mean tomater
That is awesome! You have made a damned good Trail Truck and decent Crawler. Makes me want to pick up one just to see what I can do with one, I love taking stuff and making it what I want it to be, well like you do. That is why I think your Channel is one of the best RC Crawler Channels out because you show people how you can fix something and make it waaaaay better.
I had to quit Building Drag Engines and doing Fab work on Drag Cars and Trucks do to having a tearable back injury so RC Crawlers, Drag Vehicles and RC Airplanes keep my Brain and hands happy. 😂
It's performing a lot better than before.
And honestly, it didn't require tweaking. Shock positions were the worst of it, undoubtedly carryovers from the Mashigan. It's a surprisingly capable thing considering it's size and weight. Still needs a tow boom, or more accurately, a tow boom, and I don't know if that's a thing.
Thanks for pointing out the plastic tabs that oppose the front suspension travel, and the styrene for shock mounts! I cut off those plastic tabs and definitely helped!! I have shocks and styrene on the way. Great info as I’m pretty new to the RC hobby, really helpful.
Thank you sir 👍
Years ago I had a kit with cvd pins that liked to slide out. I was able to just use heat shrink around the outside, and it lasted forever. Just a thought.
Absolutely works for CVDs, but universals not so much. I'll figure something out.
Your videos spark joy.
Oh man I just bought the blue one it's beautiful and a beast find putting it on beginner mode makes it work alot better for crawling but the normal sometimes is needed for that little boost
C.C. Logging (on the doors) Weathered with some small trees in the logo. Great work as always. 👍
Btw the window tint are stickers from outside. Peel them of and it looks more toned down can add an interior and a figure
Into have to cut a little to get the fusion in. I had to dremel a lot to get older gen fusion 1800kv into the motor mount. It’s still angled of.
Thanks for the videos. I am a complete NOOB with RC vehicles and your videos are the most helpful I've found. Like vegasmike I have the version that came with no panhard bar. After watching your video that seems to be a good thing. I am thinking I will add one, using the mounting tab you pointed out on the passenger side of the front axle and going to a mount under the forward portion of the battery tray next to the servo. That would make it about the perfect length ( I watched your panhard tech notes). Do you think that would work?
The orange is growing on you for sure. It’s great and it’ll look perfect with logs or a tow body. Only other thing to do really is go olive drab and put the canvas personnel body on it maybe a MASH theme with Hawkeye and Pierce in the cab. This channel is the reason I set up a CZcams account, thanks for all of the hours of knowledge and a high degree of entertainment along with it.
Appears there are 2 versions of this truck. If the tabs are remnants of the jimmny leafs, mine is parts from the mashigan because i don't have them Also my truck is a 4 link front, no pan hard. My truck was a very early release, Bought it day one of availability.
i turned mine into a rescue rangers truck. I have vids of it on my channel. Impressive build, looking forward to seeing more.
Wow what a difference and so on the cheap great job and You are right it's the best looking PowerWagon I have seen now do I get one and go with my ideas for a build hmmmm
Roc hobby has revised the front axles and they seem to have fixed the pin walking out issue. Unfortunately no new part numbers, the only difference is the new axles are black while the old ones were more of a dark chrome.
light bar, tow boom, sound....go whole hog! The u-joints falling out is odd, must have been a manufacturing defect. I have three fms trucks with the same shafts and only blew one of them apart after 2yrs running a holmes pro! Anyway, go full tow truck...it will be killer.
Atlas is looking real nice!
You should try using 2.2 120mm tires, aesthetically pleasing and great on the side hills.
For winches i just use those small 10 amp escs, plenty of them come with a drag break too
It's the Canyon, full that bed with rocks!!
(Half joking)
He's a rescue truck ta me , he can got get em kind a boy.........
Well you have made a decent crawler out of the Atlas and i'm impressed. I was thinking could you use some heat shrink to hold the pins in? Also what about duratrax foams theyre a medium and you probably have some spares, If not im sure double buns will work.
Bummed about the first attempt at the shocks being bogus. Was hoping they would work out.
Got Amazon'd hard on that one. As soon as I pulled that clear/green baggie out of the mailer, I knew.
@@CrawlerCanyon I was looking at the old man emus from RC4WD for this since I'm terrible at fabrication lol
@@CrawlerCanyon I'd contact Amazon and get them sent back, not what you ordered despite any price you paid. They will probably refund you and postage should be free to return. Ive had to do it a couple of times, never had any trouble.
He does well.. old vid dont know yet were you went with him but i like logg truck without the tow truck overhead light bar. A visor might look good though..
is it possible to control the winch with a esc and mix the esc with ch2 trottle??
I'm thinking about purchasing the Atlas and I figured I'd watch your video to see the pros & cons. Did you figure out a remedy for the front axles losing the pins ? Thank you for the great content from your new subscriber !
I guess sometimes low-teck works: I hit each end of the pin with a spring-loaded punch (technically, where the pin and hole meet), and I guess it flared the ends out enough that the pins stopped falling out.
stacks look great. crawls really well. like you said maybe double buns.
It needs tractor tires to complete the look. Time for 4.75 fling kings.
Oh no Kevin's got a friend 😮
Don't most cheap unis have metal sleeves over the pins? I'd love to see you do the tow-truck rig. Embrace the scaleness!!!! I think the front bumper needs more chrome/steel. You could make it a tow rig and then have 'lil fell and he be a team during comp events, lol.
CVDs, yes. Universals, no. Gotta start mentally computing how to go about building a boom.
You're turning dust into gold once more CC 🥰
Maybe a black and gold color scheme?
for than less than 300 bux to the front door im tickled pink with mine
On the CVD cross pin problem. The Redcat Gen 9 guys are having that issue also. The use heat shrink, if there is room? I would probably try cleaning them with brake clean, put a thin layer of rite stuff silicone sealer around the outside , then put wire heat shrink?
Thank you again for the great content. Always entertaining and inspiring.
Have a great day Mr. Canyon
This guy has universals. Fixing a slippy pin on a CVD is no problem, but a universal doesn't have the flt area to shrink/glue/bond anything to-- just two U-joints spinning around one another. Ordinarily the pins are swaged into the pivot ball, but not on this guy.
@@CrawlerCanyon how about meticulous cleaning then braze or solder the ends so the pins don’t falls out.
Then when you need them out, reheat and modify an set of shock pliers. socket eye part of it to press out u joint pins? Just another thought.
Say it again and I'll always say it that everybody that watch this needs it without somebody and helps him get in front of more people that he can possibly help when it comes to RC
try putting a spacer in the opening where the shock bottom normally goes on axle, and put shock bottom on the outside of the tab. at least up front.
Because of the shape of the C-hub/delete, there's not enough room for the rod end outside of the current mount. Big 'ol flathead screw right there.
@@CrawlerCanyon Ahh ok, gotcha.
I like the look but you just showed me this truck is beyond a few easy fixes . I don't have near your ability but at the same time I'm learning what can and can't be fixed . Glad you called out the people who sent those shocks .FMS has real nice products that look good and it stops there for me.
There is a bit of an "RC4WD but with more plastic" vibe. It's worth it for the body, really. Problems aside, it looks amazing.
It’s ironic at 15:00 mins you talk about dremelling that plastic piece from another model I just did it assuming it was a design flaw and watched your video after I cut it pretty bad with a cutter couldn’t wait lol
@crawlercanyon what did you do to the battery tray? It's terrible out of the box.
Might be able to back the body in white to make it lighter.
Much improved
green retaining loctite the pins
Have you considered an axle swap?
Is there a way I can send you my scx10 ii honcho so you can fine-tune it charge me and send it back to me? Just wondering if this is something you can do because the person I got it from did all kinds of things to it and the front suspension just does not feel right, thanks just wondering
There would be no charge for the "tuning." Cover parts and shipping and consider it job done. I've already renovated one Honcho, I know where to start.
Shoot me an email to crawlercanyon at gmail dot com and we can work out the details. Sight unseen, I can't estimate what it will need parts-wise. If I have it, I can potentially donate it-- but if it needs shocks/springs, links, etc, I'd have to source those.
@@CrawlerCanyon sounds good. I will send you an email with pictures.
There's not enough room to use a thin C-clamp Washer on that pin?
If these were CVDs, easy fix. These are universals, so two U-joints connected by a pivot. No room to do anything and still be able to you know... turn.
@@CrawlerCanyon Oh OK, Just getting back into the hobby so old knowledge needs refreshing and updated to all the new designs/tech.
Stock Stingle Stage? 🤔🤭🤣
I sure could go for a Starbucks
Nice crawling👐✨