Oboe Tenon Sleeving
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- čas přidán 11. 05. 2016
- The middle tenon on an oboe is a critical part of the structure of the instrument and a good fit ensures that it plays reliably. Most oboes have three links between the top and bottom joints; the right hand trill key, the conservatoire bar and the F#-G# link. There is quite a large margin for error with the first two - they will still work ok if the adjustment isn’t perfect. Not so with the F#-G# link, which connects two pads which have to go down perfectly together. If there is any movement in the tenon joint, it’s impossible to get this link to work reliably. If it’s out one way, the F#-G# link doesn’t work. If it’s out the other way, the F# pad won’t go down and the whole right hand of the instrument won’t work.
The important thing to understand is that the cork does not make the joint stable - it’s just there to make an airtight seal and hold the joint together. The stability comes from a perfect fit on the shoulders of the tenon. These tend to wear and eventually the joint wobbles. This is when it’s time to fix the problem by fitting a sleeve to the tenon and manufacturing new shoulders to eliminate the wobble.
Howarth oboes coming out of the factory are incredibly consistent with the fit of their tenons. Before the cork is fitted, you can feel the shoulders slide into the socket snugly and the joint is stable and firm without the cork. Other manufacturers are not so reliable and sometimes even brand new oboes can have wobbly middle joints.
This video shows my technique, as taught to me at the Howarth workshops in London, of sleeving a tenon with a metal tip.
Richard Craig Woodwind specialises in:
- Repair of all makes of clarinet, oboe, bassoon and saxophone
- General servicing and maintenance
- Full overhauls, rebuilds and repads
- Tuning, damage repair, replacement of worn or broken parts
Each instrument is tested and set up by top professional players. Richard Craig Woodwind is the exclusive provider of Howarth and Moosmann in Australia.
Check out our social media channels and website:
Facebook: / craigwoodwind
Website: www.richardcraig.com.au - Hudba
Wonderful precision you've built into your work ethic. I have a tenon on my old wooden clarinet that needs to have something like this done, but fear what the repair will run since its grenadilla wood and now protected by CITE regulations. Thank you for showing the involved process required to repair these old woodwinds.
Hello from a Montreal (Canada) oboe repairman :)
Great video and great job!
Would you be kind enough to tell me your source for nickel silver bar? Are you using a particular alloy? (I don't know if this is how you call it there... the metal. Maillechort in french)
Thanks :)
Que trabalho Lindoo....
Parabens...
Wonderful video. May I ask how you are holding the oboe at the headstock end for turning?
Thank you! I made a set of wooden receivers that fit into the headstock. The top of the oboe fits into a tapered hole, so it's a simple friction fit - no clamping.
Nicely done, very well filmed (if watched at 0.25 speed). Definitely like. But why the new sleeve is better than the old one? Seems like it keeps the same lateral play and unsecure connection on both metallic and wooden parts? (3:01)
+Victor Medina The old tenon was worn and loose. The new sleeve makes it a perfect fit so there is no play. That's the whole point of the repair. The wood and metal shoulders need to stop the tenon wobbling, and the cork is just there to make the joint airtight and secure.
No play. The new shoulders are a snug fit in the socket
what kind of adhesive do you use when you bond the metal to the wood?
Liquid shellac.