How to Shoot Long Exposure Images
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- čas přidán 25. 08. 2024
- Since I first started landscape photography I’ve always enjoyed making long exposure images of water. I love the surreal feel it gives the landscape, and in this video I discuss the gear and technique required to shoot them at one of my favourite locations in Carrasquiera, Portugal
If you’d like to join me for a landscape photography workshop I’ll be co-leading groups in 4 workshops in Tuscany, Iceland and the Dolomites in 2018. Check out my website for more information www.andymumfor...
If you're interested in purchasing any of the gear I use in this video, and you enjoy my videos, please support my work by clicking on the affiliate links below. The US Amazon links are on the left, the UK ones are on the right.
Thanks so much.
Gear I used in this film:
Cameras
Fuji X-T2 amzn.to/2x8mgwX (UK: amzn.to/2gRFH78)
Fuji X-T20 amzn.to/2yzFoHq (UK: amzn.to/2yB0s0G)
Lenses
Fujinon XF10-24mm amzn.to/2veZzXI (UK: amzn.to/2xoHA4M)
Fujinon XF55-200mm amzn.to/2vxSEMa (UK: amzn.to/2xsWPqZ)
Fuji XF18-55MM amzn.to/2CEYSZZ (UK: amzn.to/2BLNJJW)
Gitzo Mountainer Series 2 Tripod amzn.to/2GFSqVc (UK: amzn.to/2CeQG6S)
Gitzo Traveller Series 1 Tripod amzn.to/2qxKZYq (UK: amzn.to/2jVdNeo)
Lee Little Stopper 6 Stop Neutral Density Filter amzn.to/2EOnmSy (UK: amzn.to/2os0lxJ)
Lee Filter Holder amzn.to/2oonJNe (UK: amzn.to/2FoNwwf)
Lee 2 Stop Graduated ND Filter amzn.to/2GE4s1e (UK: amzn.to/2FqZqG3)
Drone = DJI Mavic Pro amzn.to/2zlZlil (UK: amzn.to/2kZVpBD)
Microphone = Røde VMGO amzn.to/2lyggrZ (UK: amzn.to/2xpkXgx)
Music licensed via Epidemic Sound
Short, crisp, to-the-point. Thanks for the excellent recap.
Thanks so much, glad you found it useful
Great video again, but I would like to add one important thing here, which most of the people overlook, when they talk about long exposure. In such a long time span, so many changes happen in front of the lens, at that particular time of the day, especially coloration. Long exposure gives the sensor ability to capture all those changes in time being exposed, which creates very, very rich color spectrum in the final image, and your image clearly shows that. ND filters are not only about smoothing the water surface, and clouds, it's about richness of the colors in the final camera output, which could not be replicated with short exposure.
Excellent short tutorial. Good use of titles/graphics to walk us through the math(s) involved. I got the sense that you ended up not using the graduated filter, but your "drop in shot" perfectly explained its potential use.
Your videos always come across as chats from a kind and knowledgeable friend. There's a real warmth and heart to these. Cheers.
Thanks so much for the comment, really glad you enjoy the videos
Hello Andy, I have recently retired and started photography as a new hobby, after pouring through CZcams videos I have finally settled for you and two other photographers as my holy trinity of experts, you do really informative and enjoyable videos. Would have loved if you had done a step by step guide in your own style regarding long exposures. Found your other videos on composition, wide angle lenses and landscape tips, a treasure chest of information, well done.
Thanks so much for the comment, it's really nice to know you enjoy the videos.
I am new to the landscape world. I come from doing street and architecture photography and i will say this guy uses a lot of the same core principals i use with my photography which is making learning from him super easy. I dig the content and the photos are very nice as well. Thank you for posting.
Thanks for the comment, glad you enjoyed the video
I know I’m a little late watching this but what a stunning location and awesome images
Thanks so much, glad you enjoyed it
Andy, you’re the best👍
Thanks so much 🙏
Very beautiful picture 👍
Thankyou.
I’m living in Cascais and I really appreciate your photos and your videos. You are one of my favourite CZcams channels. Congratulations and carry on
Great video, thanks for sharing! This is one of my current goals- to take a long exposure of a large body of water. I live on the coast of Southern California and have a lot of places to take pictures of the ocean. Keep up the great videos!
Thanks so much, really glad you enjoyed the video. Good luck with your long exposures
That looks like a long exposure dream location ! All those jetties leading off in different directions. Great stuff, thanks..
Hi Gary. it is indeed a fantastic location...but not super simple to shoot as there are just so many piers than getting clean shots (without other piers or bits of things coming into the side of the image) and it makes it hard to get clean compositions. Most people head out to the end where you have a clean background to shoot against.
Cheers for the reply and would love to get here one day - will have to stick to Southend for my LE's for now though :)
Thank you 😊😊
You’re welcome
As always Andy, an absolute treat to watch. Great content and the best production values on CZcams. Thank you.
Thanks so much for the comment
Thanks, Andy, very helpful as are all your videos. Living in Florence, Italy, I don't have much access to the sea to do long exposures, but when I'm on the coast, I love to take them. You certainly live in a beautiful place, with fantastic opportunities for compositions on those wooden piers. Cheers, Bob.
Thanks for the comment Bob, you may not have the coast close by but Tuscany is some of the most gorgeous landscape I know. It must be a lovely place to live
Nice, clear concise info and a cool photo to finish, thanks Andy.
Cheers Derek
Hallo Andy,
Thanks a lot for the detailed explaning of the manual stop calculation. I look fortward to your next helpful and stunning video. Regrads from Germany
Thanks Klaus, glad you liked it
Very helpful and to the point video
Thanks, glad you found it useful
Great Video and lovely long exposure shots
Thanks Anuja
Great video Andy, what an absolute stunning LE location, sliky water heaven!
Thanks Patrick, glad you liked the video
nicely explained and easy steps to follow. keep up the good work!
Thanks, really glad you liked the video
Always enjoy your videos Andy.
Thanks Rob
Thank you Andy short video but very well explained.
Thanks, glad you liked it
Another great video Andy! Excellent tips, beautiful photography and some awesome mavic shots too! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks Andy
Thanks Andy great video as always. I love long exposure photography. Very helpful.
Thanks for the comment Maurice
Thank you Andy, your images and videos are quite inspiring and informative.
Thanks Connaught
Great video Andy,it has helped me,tnx.
Thanks Ed, glad you liked it
Thank you for a beautiful descriptive, informative video. I use the Olympus EM1ii. I have just bought the Haida 75Pro kit to suit the smaller lenses it uses. It includes a cpl too. Can’t wait to get my hands on it. The Australian sunlight is so harsh. The Nisi App is free for calculating exposure times too. Cheers
Thanks so much
Nice image, beautiful sunset and location. Thank! Andy.
Thanks for the comment
Thank you, Andy, beautifully explained...
Thanks Allen, glad you liked the video
Enjoyed that Andy, one of the better tutorials I’ve seen. I’ve photographed a lot of long exposures and I like your comment at 00:50 cheers
Thanks loads Andy, glad you liked it
Great shots I love longexposures also.
Thanks Bill
Love the video and the tips on long exposures!
Thanks so much
What a fantastic location; just love those rickety piers! I’m also messaging from Germany.
Cheers Allen
Great information! Thank you..
Glad you like it
Thanks a great well explained video and great photo results. I love the drone footage too. Magical looking place. Ive subscribed and looking forward to other videos from you.
Thanks Alan, glad you liked the video
Thank you.
Another great video, straight to the point but very informative. 🙏
So, you can't set the exposure in the camera in advance; you have to allow the camera to decide how long the exposure is going to be?
Thanks so much, glad the video was useful. Yes, you can’t see the exposure in advanced, you have to meter the scene first, as brightness levels change from scene to scene and at different times of the day
Nice video Andy and a treat to watch. Since I changed over to the xt2 been doing a lot of long exposures and its definitely easier with the mirrorless system!!
Jim
Hi Jim, thanks for the comment. I agree with you. Since Fuji rolled out the Firmware update that allows you set long exposures up tp 15 mins in T mode (without using Bulb) long exposures are even easier
@@AndyMumford Very nice video(s) indeed. I wonder if the T mode allows for recomposition, refocusing & re-metering without taking the nd set off? thanks! my current dslr literally leaves me in the dark, as it does not go beyond 30sec. thanks! christophe
Great video 👍🏽👍🏽
Brilliant video...awesome imagery...a new subscriber!
Thanks so much
Andy, maybe not specifically this one, but your videos have helped me become a better photographer. I learned to evaluate and eventually capture a scene much better. Thank you. I have decided to get into square filters and would like to ask if you would suggest a soft or medium graduated filter to begin with. Will be photographing the alps soon and want to take at least one GND with me.
Hi Andy, I have to say that I loved the images in this video. You're definitely skilled at what you do. I'm also impressed with your rapid improvement on your video production. I read that you are planning on buying a new filter set and holder. I found a holder that you might want to check out at a company called Wine Country Camera(winecountry.camera). It's absolutely stellar. Also, I see you are still struggling with your location audio. I would recommend the Rode Film Maker wireless lavalier system to cut that wind noise and still remain untethered. I used it with my handy cams and now use it with my iPhone and iPad. It works wonderfully outdoors and has the added benefit of cutting reverberation when used for voice overs indoors. It's all plug-and-play to set up and quite compact. It should work well with your X-T2. Sorry for such a long note but I was hoping to be helpful in improving your productions. Good luck and I'll be looking forward to future videos.
Hi Barney, thanks for the comment, and I appreciate the tips. I'm still learning with video and there's so much I want to get better at. I've been looking into lavalier mics. I'll check out the filter holder too. Thanks for the recommendations
Hi Andy,
Thank you for the vid!
Is it not possible to do long exposures without filters?
Thanks for the comment. To make long exposures without filters you really need there to be very low light levels, so it only works deep into the blue hour. It's almost impossible to get anything like 15 seconds until it's almost dark, and by then there's no colour or contrast in the landscape
thank you for the great video Andy! Can you tell me how much effect such long exposures have on the battery and does it ever heat up? I'm looking forward to trying these techniques out when the weather breaks!
Glad you enjoyed the video. Long exposures do have take up battery life a little, but really not by much. Make sure you have the noise reduction turned off (it's pointless and can be done just as easily in post processing. Noise reduction uses the battery and means you can't use your camera while it's doing the NR process on the image...which takes as long as the original exposure). As for heating up, that's only really an issue for REALLY long exposures of an hour or so
Excellent vid Andy..will have to work on filters... cheers, Vernon Alvares, Mumbai, India
Thanks so much, really glad you found it useful
Hi Andy, nice vid! Did you calculate the stops from the GND or just the 6 stop ND?
You calculate the stops for the ND, the GND is just for the sky
So you don’t use the camera meter to get the shutter speed, you dial it in manually?
Thanks
Caula
I use the cameras meter, but the exposure is set manually.
Hey Andy again ! i see here you are using wide tracking(all) on your focus point . Do you always use this over point focusing or manuel focusing ?
Thanks for the comment. This is an old video now and I use manual focus all of my images
Great video, do you turn OIS off when doing long exposure?
Thanks for the comment, and yes, I turn off OIS whenever the camera is on the tripod.
Hi Andy - Could you please suggest a travel tripod
I use the Gitzo GT1545 Traveller, which I really like, but it's expensive. A little cheaper would be the Benro Travel Angel, either the series 1 or 2, depending on how large you want the tripod to be
Is it possible to make long exposure without filter if so make a video about it.
You can only really do it after sunset or before sunrise in the blue hour when light levels are low
@@AndyMumford thanks
Good stuff
Thanks
Andy Mumford new to photography here, appreciate your videos. How do you know when to use a 10 stop and a 6 stop filter? The brightness of the sky?
There's no right or wrong filter really. A 10 stop will just give you a longer exposure than a 6 stop. I rarely use 10 stop filters as I tend to do my long exposures in the blue hour and 10 stops makes the exposure a bit longer than I like at that time, but if you want to get 4 or 5 minute exposures in the blue hour, and 20-30 seconds when it's still bright, then a 10 stop is the tool for the job
Andy Mumford thank you
When you said base exposure in the video, did you mean estimated shutter speed given by camera while half push the shutter button? Thanks.
By base exposure I meant the exposure that the camera was metering without any filters. The camera meters without having to half press the shutter button.
Can you tell me where in Lisbon this was shot? I'm going to be taking my wife on a short trip there early next year.
A place called Carressquiera. It's about 100km south of Lisbon
Thanks man!! @@AndyMumford
Do you reduce the noise reduction on your sunset pictures?
I have the noise reduction turned off, and any noise reduction that needs doing I do in post
Another helpful video! Thanks Andy.
I know XT3 has less hot pixels than XT2 on long exposures but I am still in between shooting with the lighter Fujifilm XT3 System or with a heavier but better image quality Full Frame Nikon DSLR. What do you think? Is the image quality difference worth to carry that weight?
Nope. I used to use a Nikon D800 and since I've switched to Fuji I've never regretted it.
Very informative video Andy.I've been looking at different ND filters and I'm seeing that most of the ones that they sell are circular with a thread that directly screws into the end of the lens and the ones that I've been able to find like the one you use with a plate of glass seem to be ridiculously expensive 300-500 $.Is that generally what they go for and if so are there cheaper options that work well ? Thanks a lot and all the best
I use either Lee or NiSi 100mm filters. They are more expensive, but cheap filters have colour casts and can do some strange things to colours, plus the cheaper quality resin reduces image quality. A good set of filters will last you a long time...probably longer than your camera body.
I have a question, those bamboo and wooden structures are not they vibrating with the water brushing on the base on those? It should also vibrate over the Tripod ..
They vibrate when you move, so when you're shooting you have to stay quite still. The water is very still there and not particularly deep so doesn't move the piers.
Great video, am a new subscriber.
Thanks, glad you like the videos
Hi Andy! Thanks for all your amazing videos! I have a quick question (which may be dumb), but I know that now you're using circular screw-on filters such as ND filters. For the type of image taken in this video, how do you go about taking the photo WITHOUT the gradient ND filter used in the video? Do you take multiple 2 minute exposures and tweak some kind of setting and then merge them together in Lightroom/Photoshop? Thanks in advance!!!
It really depends. This scene is quite rare in that I'm shooting into very bright light which I wouldn't normally do. Often I'll just take a regular sky exposure and then a long exposure for whatever I want to be blurred.
@@AndyMumford Thanks for the reply!
If I use the bolbw
Andy, when you’re using a Grad ND, what metering mode do you use, matrix or spot metering (metering for the area where the grad is clear)? Am I right in assuming that matrix metering is not advisable as the dark part of the grad will be lightened (due to the “averaging” exposure inherent to matrix meter mode)?
I really love your videos as they’re very educational. Keep up the good work! 👍👍👍
Hi Glenn. Yes, you're right, the meter will average out and lighten the part behind the filter. However, to be honest nowadays with mirrorless cameras where I can see a live histogram and preview of the image I don't worry too much as it's simple to get exposure right.
Very good, I have a question, I'm starting with long exposure photography, how do I focus, first I focus without the filter and then I put it on, or I focus with the filter on the lens, the filter is very dark and some situations I’ll use 2 or 3 filters and I don’t think you can focus on them in front of the lens.
Thanks a lot. Always focus manually before you put the filters on
Wauw😄
Thanks so much
Well explained video .. I have a problem with where to focus .. in the last photo with the jetty and the beautiful colour ... where did you focus to get all the photo sharp? Any tips on focusing would be great.
Hi Sue, glad you liked the video. Shooting this wide at above f8 should mean that anything more than 1 meter in front of the camera is in focus. I think my focus point here was about half way along the pier
What is the best aspect ratio for landscape?
There isn’t a best one. It’s whichever you prefer
@@AndyMumford thanks andy
Hi Andy, thank you for the video, it´s very clear and helpful. Do you focus to infinity when shooting long exposure? Thanks!
Thanks for the comment Javier. Yes, I usually focus to infinity for long exposures
Hi Andy, I have started to use the "T" setting on my XT2 for long exposures, so I can set the speed then adjust the exposure with the back wheel. Have you tried that method?
Hi David. I always use the T setting now for long exposures, it's such a fantastic feature.
Great video Andy, thank you very much for sharing -such a beautiful location. Do you ever find that the structures you are on shake? In which case I assume long exposures are not possible?
Hi Kevin. Glad you liked the video. Yes, quite a few structures I shoot from do shake. A this location you have to keep still while making the exposure as the vibrations from walking will ruin the shot. Fortunately there aren't many people around at sunset, so it's not too tricky, and this is a sheltered part of the estuary so currents aren't a problem. Locations like Vasco da Gama bridge for example have early morning joggers vibrating the boardwalk that you shoot from, so you have to time shots between them :-)
Thank you very much , yes short video but very condense and interesting learning materials. which company's filters you use or recommend please
Hi Sajjad. Thanks for the comment, glad you found the video useful. I've used Lee 100mm filters pretty much since I started photography, but I'm just about to switch to NiSi. There filters are glass and are at least as neutral as Lee filters. Also, the holder has a much better design.
Hopefully this isn't a silly question but which filter is closer to the lens? ND or graduated?
Actually it's a good question. The ND should be on closest to the lens, and the grad on the outside
Andy. Great video. Could you tell me the cable release you are using and recommend please?
Thanks. I think the cable release in this one is the Fuji mechanical one amzn.to/2XPjdIk
Awesome video, and thanks for your kindness sharing experiences! I also switch from Canon 5D2 to Fujifilm X-T3. May I know what camera filter kit you use in this video, please? Cause I’m going to travel soon. Thanks again!
Hi, thanks for the comment, glad you enjoyed the video. In this video I was using the Lee filter kit.
Thanks Mr. Mumford. I bought it!
Hi andy! What time of the day do you usually shoot landscape?
The hours around sunrise and sunset
Hi. What shutter type do you suggest for the long exposure? Mechanical or electronic?
I use mechanical..I've never noticed any shutter shake
I like your video. How do you time the exposure when it is greater than 30 seconds. Is there a setting in the camera?
You can put the camera in Bulb mode where you manually open and close the shutter with a remote control. You can either use a watch to time it, or some cameras have a timer on them. The Fuji also has a T mode where you can extend the shutter time up to 15 minutes.
I think on some cameras ,you must put the cam in M (manual) to access Bulb mode.
When i am in T Mode mine goes up to 30 seconds am I doing something wrong?
Great video, Andy. I sometimes also set the iso 100 to x-t2, if I need more time and the aperture is too small. I have a question, I have an x-t2 problem with hot pixels for longer shutter speeds. I can adjust the noise reduction for a long exposure, but the final image lasts twice as long, for example 2 min. exposure and 2 min. cleans camera bad pixels. Do you have a tip or is your x-t2 fine with this "problem"
Thank you very much.
Kind regards,
Karel (Czech Republic)
I never really noticed any hot pixels with the XT2 (I don't have it anymore as I've switched to an X-T3), but I never rarely do "really" long exposures of above 1 or maximum two minutes, so it could be that.
Hi thanks for sharing. It's really helpful. which shutter mode did you use?
I shoot all my landscape images in manual with mechanical shutter
Is the base exposure determined with the graduated neutral density filter installed? Seems like it should be. I couldn't tell from the video.
Have you made a mobile photography video. We all can't afford cameras,
I've got a sanding note 8. Would love how to use the pro mode features. I've watched some on CZcams, but not always clearly explained.
Thanks for the comment, but I haven't done a video on phone photography. Maybe in future, but I don't really use my phone for serious photography.
what do you suggest if you don't have neutral density filters in your bag yet?
You really need an ND filter, or you'll only be able to slow dow the exposure enough when there's very little light (deep into the blue hour) when most of the colour and contrast has gone
@@AndyMumford thank you kind sir. love your content
What happens if you have no cable release button
You can use the 2 second timer
Andy Mumford Okay but i can only get a 30 second exposure. Is the photo still gonna be alright
Hello Andy, Great Channel. I am also using and Xt2. Presently shopping for a tripod. I have to pick one! Between the Gitzo Mountainer series and the Traveller series. With one do you use more, feel is more practical? The traveller does have hook for added stability, as it ever caused you a problem?
Thank you in advance for your reply.
JF
Hi Jean-François. I have both a Mountaineer series 2 and a Traveller Series 1 and they are both excellent. To be honest, I rarely use the Mountaineer any more as the Traveller is easier to take with me and works just as well....I tend to use the Mountaineer when I'm going to get the tripod in the sea. Whenever I go on a trip I'll take the Traveller.
Why don’t you use smaller apertures in stead of filters? Many thanks in advance!
Smaller apertures won’t give you shutter speeds of half a second or more unless its really quite dark. There’s also a loss of sharpness due to diffraction at smaller apertures
Andy Mumford Thanks a lot Andy.
Great video Andy lovely shot at the end, like you said a shame about the lack of movement in the sky but a nice shot either way! Was this shot using the xt2?
Hi, thanks for the comment. Yes, the image was shot with the X-T2 (and all the video footage except the drone stuff was shot with the X-T20). It's a pity about the lack of clouds, but we've had a crazy winter in Portugal when it's barely rained and almost every day we have crystal clear skies.
Andy Mumford rather that then like you said the rain! It’s a lovely shot tho either way! It’s amazing how much detail that xt2 puts out!
Congratulations for a brilliant choice of place. The palafitic wharf of Carrasqueira couldn’t be a better choice, for the topic.
Great video. Any advice on how best handle the high noise that appears in the shadows on the XT2, especially during long exposure? The fuji is great at almost everything, but struggles with shadow detail, even at 200 ISO. Do you leave 'auto noise reduction in long exposure' mode on, which requires the patience of a saint? Many thanks!
Hi Julian. I don't use Auto Noise reduction, it just takes too much time when I should be shooting. What I tend to do with noise is create a duplicate layer in Photoshop and use Nik Dfine noise reduction on the layer. I then mask out the layer and just brush through where I want to apply the noise reduction. So, with the image in the video there was noise in the shadows in the water in the bottom right. I masked out the noise reduction layer and then just brushed it back there with a feathered brush.
Awesome, I'll give that a try. Thanks!
Hi do you use the bulb mode for long exposure?
I don’t because my camera (Fuji Series) has a T mode that goes up to exposure times of 15 minutes.
Thanks for this video!! I am trying to buy a set of filters, but not quite sure which stop numbers to buy - what would you recommend? And is there any benefit on square vs. round filters?
Thanks for watching, glad you liked it.
Square filters are easier to manipulate and can be dropped in and taken out more easily. Also,with grads a square filter allows you to slide the line of graduation down to the same level as the horizon.
Hey andy ✌ I was wondering about wether i should be leaving the Image stabilization on my fuji lenses on or off when shooting long exposures. What are you suggesting?
You should always turn image stabilization off when you have the camera on a tripod.
Hi Andy, in my x t4 when i am in Shutter T mode, i can set it to 2, 4 , 8 and 15 minutes with the back command dial. Is there a way in camera to set this shutter speed between this nos, for example 5 minutes and 20 seconds. Thanks
No, sadly there's not. In T mode is goes in graduations of one stop after a certain point, and for specific times like you mentioned you're better off in B (Bulb) mode. You need a cable release that you can lock, so you open the shutter and lock it open on the cable release and you'll get a time that counts up.
@@AndyMumford thanks
Is there a difference in buying a ND filter with a polariser in it as well vs just a ND filter? I am new to this and want to buy some and not sure why one has a polarisor attached to ND (they're both same price - polarpro)
I don't really like NDs with included Polarisers as they're too different filters used for very different things. Most of the time I'm using a polariser i don't want an ND as well, and likewise when I'm using an ND, I prefer to have the choice about whether I'll use a CPL or not. I guess companies do it because there's a market for it, people want to save a little money and buy one filter instead of two, but in the end they're different things with different uses and I personally think it's better to keep them separate
@@AndyMumford thanks!
Hi Andy, firstly thanks for the amazing videos. I have just switched to the Fuji xt3 watching your videos from a heavy Nikon system thanks to you and no regrets.
Just to ask, what filter system do you advise to use!? I have previously used the screw on ones but different thread size calls for a lot of money.
Thanks for the comment Elmir, glad you find the video useful. I use NiSi filters and highly recommend them. I've also used Lee for many years and they're excellent too.
Andy Mumford thanks a lot I will look into them. Lee seem to get the best vote but they are just so expensive and I genuinely don’t use long exposure as much to justify them. I do love the grad ones to be able to expose correctly as now I expose for highlights and reply on post processing to recover shadows losing some quality
Andy Mumford ps I also asked about your raf converter that you use (I am el_b_photos on intstsgram :)) do you just use lightroom or process files into dng before lightroom processing via x-transformer or some other tool!? Pps... your images are stunning
Generally I just use Lightroom, although I occasionally use CaptureOne Pro for the RAW conversion, turning it into a DNG before sending to Lightroom. There's a free basic version of C1 for Fuji which is all you need if you just want the RAW conversion and access to basic exposure tools
Andy Mumford yeah I have the free version of C1 and the raw imported looks a lot sharper than the lightroom raw rendition of Fuji files. Iridient x-transformer is really good also worth checking out.
Great Drone footage (that’s how I found your Channel) Do you suffer Reciprocity when shooting long exposures on Digital? Was the long reverse shot By the drone down the pier reversed in editing? As always a class video. 👍🏻
Hi Scott. Thanks for the comment, it's a great location for drones. Reciprocity is only an issue with film, but when shooting with digital, long exposures can bring a different kind of problem. The sensor can get hot which can create hot pixels or digital noise. As for the drone shots, I do occasionally reverse them in videos but none of the shots here have been. If you look carefully at the very beginning of the long reverse shot you can see seagulls flying away from some posts (they'd have been flying backwards had I reversed it). That shot was pretty straightforwards as it's a big open area with nothing higher than the odd 3 meter post, so flying backwards and up had no risks
Great video. I got Hot Pixels when I went to 120 secs. How do I avoid that?
Thanks for the comment Guy. I get hot pixels as well with very long exposures. I just get rid of them in post
Hi Andy! Great tips! Where in the neighborhood of Lisbon were these images taken? Can I get the same results with the X-T20? Do you live in this area?
This is Carrasquiera, it's a fishing village around 100km south of Lisbon. You would be able to get identical results with the X-T20 and the same lens as the sensor is the same.
Thanks Andy. Seems like a lovely place. Which brand of filters do you use? Enjoy the weekend.
Hi Any, What kind of filters do you use? Lee? Hitech?
Hi David, I use Lee 100mm filters
Ths Andy, Is Formatt Hitech system okay? To be honest, Lee's filters are "quite" over-budget for me. Or can you suggest other brand name for me pls
Hi David. I've never use Formatt Hitech so I can't give a decent opinion on them, although I've heard they are quite good. I've also used NiSi, and they're very good. I'm actually considering switching from Lee
Thank you Andy, one more question, do you use any UV filters or CP filters on your lens?
Hi Andy I was curious what cable release you use for the x-t2?
Hi Andrew. I mainly use a Fuji mechanical one from Fuji www.amazon.co.uk/Fujifilm-04004961-Mechanical-Release-Cable/dp/B00EA6OIMG as I use an L bracket and you can't use the regular cable release when the camera is in portrait mode on an l-bracket
I have an off brand version of this mechanical cable release but am nervous to use it because the needle is so long I'm worried it will damage something internally.
How do you know what the base exposure is?
It's the exposure your camera measures without any filters on the front.
What is your advice for shooting cityscapes at night with long exposures? I always tend to have the histogram far to the left. But if I leave the shutter open longer the lights on the building are way too bright. What should I do?
Vincent Vladof if you have an Olympus camera you can use Live Composition.
@@gillyb44 I do not. I use Sony.
That's OK, but... if your shooting for 2 minutes because the light and your 6 stops, in these 2 minutes the light decrease more. Then .... do you need a little more than 2 minutes, right? maybe 2 and a half??
You're right..it depends in the light but sometimes you need to add half a stop or so