New ways to rip cut wood without a table saw
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- čas přidán 24. 01. 2024
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Something else that can help when freehand ripping is to draw two parallel lines the width of the kerf. Some people will find it easier to stay between the lines rather than try to follow a single one.
Great tip, I'm going to try that
That would be me!
Great idea.
I learned this some 40 years ago, when I first set up a woodworking shop. Back then, apparently a lot of European woodworkers preferred bandsaws and considered them the most important tool. It's a good thing to discuss and a good video, James. Thank you for sharing.
I learned this many years ago, on a wood working forum. I may have learned it from Stumpy, because he was active there also. I have ripped a fair amount of rough lumber that way since. Also, a few months ago, I purchased a Harvey band saw, and I love it. I went from a 6" cut capacity to a 14" cut capacity, and the Harvey did handle 14" maple quite well.
I'm a member of a Men's Shed group that has recently bought a Laguna 14/12 bandsaw. Initially it was set up with a 10 TPI 6mm blade and later replaced with a 6TPI 10mm blade. This was OK for a while but became inaccurate and we wondered why. Last week we swapped that blade out, replacing it with a 4TPI 16mm blade. At this point we discovered why the last blade was so awkward: the lower guides below the deck (and out of sight) had all slackened off and were mounted askew as well. At no point were the lower ceramic bearing surfaces anywhere close to doing their job. Once properly adjusted to suit the 16mm blade we're really impressed with the ripping performance of this machine, we have also stopped using the SawStop Professional table saw for most ripping jobs.
Why did you stop using the saw stop?
@@brandono4118 Didn’t stop, just don’t use it for big ripping jobs due to kickback danger.
I installed Jessem Stock Guides on my SawStop and the chance of kickback is dramatically reduced.
I initially struggled (cuts were marginally OK) with my Laguna HD16 until I invested the time for accurately setting it up. Simple saw setup. Install a new blade and track to the center of the wheels. To set side of blade at 90 degrees to the table, make a freehand cut partway through a thick piece of wood and shut the saw off. Remove the wood from the blade, flip it over and align it with the back of the blade. Any angle will be magnified by two. Adjust table accordingly to zero out any errors. You need to align front to back at 90 degrees to the table as well, adjusting the table accordingly. Compensating for drift by skewing the rip fence causes problems with many other cuts that aren't ripping and minimizes the usefulness of the miter slot. Instead, setup the saw table to be in alignment with the cut. Michael Fortune has an excellent youtube video on the process. My experience mirrors what he says - you only need to do it once. Essentially, align the rip fence with the miter slot, rip 6 inches into a piece of wood, and adjust the table so the back of the blade is centered in the saw kerf.
Beneficial video for me particularly today! I have the exact same band saw being delivered today.
Thank you for sharing. Band saws are a great tool, with so many uses. Everyone stay safe,wai, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia
Thanks for all of your videos. When I want to learn about the craft of woodworking and not just watch woodworking porn where somebody with a workshop with more square footage than my house and a $100k worth of tools makes furniture that is truly drool worthy, I come to your channel. This video in particular really addresses a need I have.
I have long wanted to get into woodworking, but never have to any great degree because I simply feel too uncomfortable working with a table saw, and the table saw appears to be the one essential tool that anybody seriously interested making real, proud to show off furniture has to have. When I was a teen I had a couple close calls when working on my Dad's table saw that just made me realize just how quickly a moment of inattention can have devastating impacts, and as somebody with ADHD, I am quite prone to those. Not that there isn't important risks with other power tools, but it just seems to me that the risks of serious injury with a table saw is an entirely different order of magnitude.
But I am now determined to build a shop where I can still make the furniture I have dreamt of making, but without having to use a table saw to do it. I am hoping to do all of the cuts that would be done on a table saw with a combination of really good sliding miter saw, a track saw with an MFT table and all the jigs, track squares, bench dogs and guides/fences needed to turn a track saw into a precision cutting machine for cross cuts that are too wide for the miter saw as well as long rip cuts on boards up to the cutting depth of the track saw. And then I will add a trim and full sized router and router table. And lastly a full size bandsaw, mostly to cut close, but not on the line and then having to clean up and finish with a plane or disk/belt sander to sneak up on the line. So thank you for this video. It helped me see the bandsaw in a new light.
I am likely not the only person who has been held back from getting into woodworking because it just seems that the one tool that no shop can be without is the one that feels like it is just looking for a chance to separate my fingers from my hand or fire a wood piece of wood back at me fast enough to bury itself in my stomach (one of my close calls was where the saw kick out a small wedge of wood I cut off the end of a board to square it up. It tore a hole in my shirt, just scratched the skin, and then buried itself in the wall behind me).
But it isn't always obvious how to use another tool to do all the very useful things that a table saw does easily. So if I can make a suggestion that you do a series of videos that take all of the tasks that you and most other woodworkers would naturally use a table saw to do and show how it can be done with the same accuracy and precision with non-table saw tools.
Thanks again.
I put a1hp 3 phase veriable speed motor on my 16" band saw 40 years ago. I use it for cutting metal at lower speed and higher speeds for plastic and wood. I never had a problem with the band saw in all the years. Cutting hard metals I use an old windex spray bottle to spray water on the blade to keep it cool. I also put caster wheels to move the heavy band saw when necessary.
I am so grateful for all your knowledge and your passion for teaching others. I am someone who finally has my shop stocked with the right tools and now making the projects I have been wanting to do for decades. Your videos have been truly priceless by showing me how to's and most importantly, how to do everything safely. Thank you for all you do for us.
You are so welcome!
This is a timely video. Last Saturday I wanted to use my band saw, but the blade kept coming off the wheels. After checking everything, I concluded that the tires need replacement. Once I install them, I will follow Stumpy’s steps for setting up the saw.
Trying to remember, but if the blade is not properly set on the wheels, then they can drift. I think ideal set up point is with the teeth just over the crown of the wheel, which is not always dead center on the wheel. Mostly I am cutting bowl blanks, and prefer the Lennox bimetal diemaster blades. They can go through a nail and not ruin the blade. As my supplier said, carbide blades are for cutting veneers...
Used to have a table saw and a bandsaw, but they took up so much space so I sold them to a friend (so I could use them if necessary ).
Then I made a fold up table with a guide and mounted a jigsaw upside down.
Works perfectly and never tries to run off to one side.
The Laguna Resaw King blade was an eye opener for me; kinda like upgrading to helical cutter heads, wish I’d done it sooner. Literally 3-4x the cost of a basic blade, but the cut quality is incredible and I’ve re-sawn up to 12” hardwood with ease. Now I just wish I had a second bandsaw as well to keep it on so I don’t have to switch out to the 1/4” blade for curvier thin work, lol.
I also got a resaw king and I concur that it is worth every penny
They're the best-- love it on hardwood!!!
Same…
Personally not much even into woodworking (more of a metal guy myself) - but these SN videos surely are well made and full of information to when I actually have to do some woodworks at home..
That drift compensation trick at 5:08 is worth sitting through the rest of the video.
Thank you for the excellent advice James. I don't presently have a band saw but I hope to in the future. I will remember many of the things you mentioned today. 😊😊😊❤❤❤
Thanks for the video, I usually learn something and always enjoy watching!
I love your videos, James. Keep keeping up the good work 🌞
It's always nice to see a new SN video is available! This was a good one and timely for me. Thank you!
Excellent advice, as always. Thanks, James.
Thanks for the great information James . Stay safe and keep these videos coming. Fred.
Brilliant as always and excellent information! Thank you..
A decade ago I sold my table saw and bought a track saw and a premium bandsaw. This was one of the best woodworking decisions I have ever made. The thing that prompted me to do it was watching a CZcams video of a woodworker showing how a piece he was sawing on his tablesaw kicked back and went completely through the wall of his workshop and out onto his lawn. I had experienced kickback a few times but didn't think too much about it. The tracksaw and the bandsaw together are so accurate and versatile that I have never missed the tablesaw. The key to a bandsaw is to get one powerful enough (220 volts, 3 hp.), rigid enough to track straight and equpped with excellent guides.
Dang. You're making me wonder why I bought my Sawstop. Using the bandsaw seems like a great alternative.
one thing you touched on very briefly. Most (if not all) the videos on youtube and tv (when they had woodworking shows) are so you can see what they're doing. It doesn't mean the tool is set for the best cut.
On a bandsaw, the guide needs to be very close to the wood, not pulled all the way up like in some videos I've watched. I like to set mine around an 1/8 inch above the highest spot on rough lumber. This gives the saw (and you) a smaller amount of blade it has to control. If the guide is all the way at the top, there can be a lot of flex in it if there's no wood to help support it. Obviously, you wouldn't be using a narrow blade to make deep cuts...
Another great video to watch (besides Stumpy's, of course) is "Mastering your bandsaw with Mark Duginske" It's from Taunton. Very informative!
Nice video, good tips - thanks
Thanks a bunch for all the tips, James! 😊
I hope I can get a bandsaw soon!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
A LOT of likes in little time, ya killing it blue
I have the same Harvey band saw and on your recommendation purchased a 1" carbide tipped blade. I'm super happy with the entire system.
Great info as always, thanks!
Good advice thanks for the info.
I love my Record Power bandsaw. Great vid - enjoyed! Loved the tip at 5:07
Yikes....92k views today? I normally look for small channels, (like yours)....but I'm glad I watched this.
tHanks for the video.
Have a great weekend everyone!
I'm a (very amateur) metal worker really but my latest car I am building has a timber framed body so I got a band saw cheap from a local Men's Shed sale to build the ash frame. I love that saw now. Was totally necessary for making the car and is so useful for many other things. I didn't need a fence for the car, everything is curved, but now I might add one.
Thank you so much
Never owned or even ran one so yes, some great info, that's how I've learned many trades is in the field watching others from 6 years old. Oh well I'm in my 60's now, so sort of a Jack of all trades.
good stuff, great video!
Re - blade drift/setup.
I prefer to :-
1. Set the fence parallel to the mitre gauge slot.
2. Rip a narrow strip and check if the cut edge is parallel to the edge that was against the fence.
3. If not, then minutely adjust the tracking until the strip is parallel.
4 The mitre gauge slot can the be used accurately because the fence has been set parallel to it - so 90 degs on gauge = 90 degs on workpiece.
Something else I've been doing to rip rough lumber is to clamp a 105" straight edge to my adjustable fence. When the boards are longer than your bandsaw table, this will ensure a rather straight edge on those longer boards.
Totally agree!
I run 2 band saws, one for Resawing and the other for curves
Great info. Thanks. Did not see the blade brand you use...
I went for years not having a table saw. I use my Delta 14” band saw (with riser block) for everything.
A fine tuned bandsaw cuts very straight.
I did a huge renovation in my shop to bring in a Laguna SUV, making sure the tablesaw stayed a centerpiece of the shop design. Turns out that extra work was for nothing as the Laguna with the RK blade takes care of all my straight cuts. Now the tablesaw has a dado and only gets used to cut my x brace laps and cut the truss rod channel, lol…
Then there's those of us with tabletop bandsaws which are great for curved cuts but suck for everything else.
This was some great info and things to consider. Do you have advice on what to look for when looking to buy a band saw?
James - as always, another great video. Any recommendations on bandsaw blade sources? Using a Delta band saw. Thanks
Cool
Thank you,
I am a beginner and I don't feel confident using/buying a table saw. It is just not safe for me to use it. Didn't know I can do this much with a band saw. I will get one definitely.
You could name this episode Saw & Order! ;)
I am happy with the "Taytools 388220 Magnetic Bandsaw and Drill Press Fence with Switchable Magnets 18-Inch-Long x 3-Inch-Tall Fence with Blade Drift Adjustment" I got for my old Delta Model 14 bandsaw.
That looks like a really cool fence. Thanks for mentioning. Never heard of it before.
How do they rip lumber...? A big bandsaw! Portable saw mill? A Band saw! Give me a code for a Harvey, James! I need a Harvey 14"... please! :)
When i was a carpenter, we would freehand rip 2x4's to a straight chalkline freehand on our portable table saw. I was surprised by how easy it was, after at first i didnt want to have anything to do with it, but watched the other guys.. peer pressure...
I like my Craftsman 12" Cabinetmaker series bandsaw (a Google image search reveals VERY few exact results - must be a rare model), but I bought it second hand and it was abused a bit by the son of the owner. The drive belt would come off when I would fire it up. I managed to stop that from happening just by making sure the right amount of tension was applied to the blade, but now it does it no matter what (I had a good run). Because of how the thing is designed (inconvenient engineering), my plan is to cut a stick to the exact width of the pulley belt on the motor and place it in the pulley to see if the stick doesn't line up with the blade pulley. If the motor itself is out of alignment, I'll just have to figure out how to fix that. Frustrating, but I need to be able to trust this saw again.
I’ve never liked the rough edge created by the band saw. I don’t have a jointer and can’t use my planer for the ripped edge of wider boards. I recently gave my son my table saw and smaller bandsaw but kept my 14” bandsaw. Guess I’ll have to rely on the band saw for a lot more jobs now.
In my experience, you have to start with a decent bandsaw (and not the POS Axminster I bought used, off eBay!), and it must be set up properly.
When you align the blade on the bandsaw wheels, you want to center the gullet of the blade on the wheel. This does two things: first, it winds up, supporting the cutting part of the blade. If you align the center of the blade, with the center of the wheel, you leave the cutting part of the blade unsupported, and it will wander in your cut. Additionally, if you always align the inside of the gullet with the center of the wheel, you will not have to adjust your side bearings, because they will always lineup properly with the gullet, avoiding the cutting portion of the blade. For those two reasons, you always want to align the inside of the gullet with the center of the bandsaw wheel.
Snodgrass has preached that method for years, and as long as the blade isn't very wide, offsetting it like that works find. But it is an exaggeration to say "If you align the center of the blade with the center of the wheel, you leave the cutting part of the blade unsupported". That statement is based upon t the mistaken theory that a crowned wheel only touches the blade at it's center. But in reality the slightly soft tire has some give, and if you look at a centered blade you will see that the teeth are in contact with the wheel on virtually all band saws, unless the blade is very wide- like an inch or wider. Centering the blade has been the common practice for generations because it works.
@@StumpyNubs I had constant issues with blade tracking until I tried the method of centering the gullet, and not the blade. I agree, though, that for very wide blades, doing this may be impractical, but any blades 3/4" and under it works fine. Most woodworking hobbyists are not working with blades any wider than that. Like you mentioned, my main "go-to" blade is a 1/4" 6tpi, and I have even cut and resawn 2" hardwood with that blade and it will work fine as long as you go slow and let the blade do the cutting.
Excellent video. Thanks, Mr. S.N. 🇨🇦
Dear Sirs,
Thank you for an excellent video.
I nearly lost 3 finger tips on a circular saw, I’ve had a few kickbacks also!
The main reason for these disasters was because I was a young machinist and not
always concentrating, however, I switched to a good quality bandsaw (put another
way, best I could afford) and that is now 25 years ago approximately, and I’ve never
had any close calls or near misses with my bandsaw, the most used machine in my
small workshop, I made a conscious decision to go back to hand tools, after
whatever I had cut with the bandsaw, and I haven’t looked back.
I know I will castigated writing this, all I can say is that it works for me.
I wonder if the mpower would be good for sharpening my knives 🤔
Hey stumpy I just upgraded to a 20” helical planer. I’m having trouble with the pressure bar and chip breaker and feed rollers… any chance you cover this in a video in the past? Or maybe future
Another great video thanks for sharing
With my guitar making I get a lot of odd bits of wood. Posts, bits of swamp kauri lopped off with a chainsaw to make it small enough for export, a few pieces of telephone pole, etc. 9/10 times bandsaw, jointer, thicknesser is all I need to dimension it. The table saw just rarely does what I need safely, and by the time I've got my square edges I coulda just whipped through it the other way anyways and ended up square.
One of the things I have always done to reduce kickback on a table saw is to raise the blade to it's full height so that it increases the downward forces on the item you are cutting. I would like your opinion on this.
GREAT points !
I don’t use my tablesaw much any more; is it worth considering selling it and getting a good bandsaw? I would love the extra space in my garage. Not sure if I’d be missing anything important from the TS if I let it go
Another great video! My bandsaw sat virtually unused for a long time. Then I discovered how versatile it is. Now I go to use it first and if I can't do the job with it I use my table saw.
Time to break out the bandsaw!
How about using a track saw?
You can get kickback with a track saw. I’ve had binding issues when using a track saw on warped wood. It’s still my favorite tool for cutting lumber down to size. But I also use my bandsaw in situations like this video describes.
I am still a novice, but figured out a tablesaws physics were just way too unforgiving of errors for me to use. I got a tracksaw and bandsaw, and can do everything i want with those. No way im standing in front of a gun like that, and it always made me not trust them after i would see a seasoned professional lose fingers or worse for their ONE carreer table saw mistake.
Hi James,
As usual, another great and informative video. BTW, I purchased my Harvey C-14 because of you and it is probably the most used machine in my shop. I do have a question. I also bought a ¾” Laguna Bandsaw King blade, fantastic blade. The manual for this saw says that it can take a blade as wide 1 inch, but I was afraid that this saw would not be able to handle the tension.
If I should need to replace it in the future, should I go with a 1-inch blade for resawing?
Thank, George
It can definitely handle an inch, but if 3/4 does the trick, no need to spend the extra on the larger blade.
How quick/easy/fast or slow is it to change a blade?
Are the blades a standard size or custom, does anyone know?
Thank you for the informative video. I have a shopsmith BS and use a pencil on the table to mark drift since it would be slightly different for each type of wood.
I've been checking out your videos for a while now, and I like the information you provide. I'm currently building a shop, and I want a bandsaw (14" or 18"). I'm looking at the Laguna but stumbled on the Harvey 16". I would like your advice for the Harvey bandsaw since you own a Harvey. Is it good? Is it better than the laguna? Thank you in advance. Regards, Denis.
I own both the Harvey C-14 and the HW615. I love them both for different reasons.
The C-14 (www.harveywoodworking.com/products/new-ambassador-c14-3hp-14-band-saw) is a fantastic saw that will do pretty much anything most people will ever need. It has lots of power (3HP) and cutting capacity (14" max re-saw). The fence and trunnions are of high quality. The guides are the best on any saw I have ever used in terms of adjustability without hassle. The wheels are heavy cast iron and the frame is big and beefy. It has a quick-release tension mechanism and a foot brake. It also has dual 4-inch dust collection ports. My only complaint is the table height is a little low for my taste (34"), but I adjusted to that fairly quickly and if I wanted to I could put blocks under the saw base to raise it a few inches.
Here's a Cool Tools video we did on the C-14: czcams.com/video/4XNh0v2GUJA/video.html
The HW615 (www.harveywoodworking.com/products/new-alpha-hw615-15-band-saw) is a beast of a saw. It has all the things I like about the smaller C-14 (3HP, 14" re-saw capacity, quick tension release, foot brake, dual dust collection ports), but it is even more robust. Everything about it screams quality, in my opinion. I have tensioned a 1-1/4" blade on it (the manual recommends 1" max), which puts an enormous strain on a saw's frame. But this thing barely flinches. The fence is the nicest I have ever seen on a band saw. The table is extra large and heavy (I have the tin-coated table, which resists rust). If I had to say something negative, the guides are a little more fiddly to adjust on the HW614 than they are on the C-14, but still nicer than most toolless guides on the market, and very heavy duty.
Here's a Cool Tools video we did on the HW615: czcams.com/video/MmMjLHIunQE/video.html
Here's a general video about what to look for in a band saw: czcams.com/video/sUsKYElDKl0/video.html
Here's a video about choosing band saw guides: czcams.com/video/3MPR2kcMhJU/video.html
Here's a video about band saw blades: czcams.com/video/z7n7Gg4QOkc/video.html
Here's another rone about Carbide blades for resawing:
czcams.com/video/bSm6hE3bBeU/video.html
Here's a video about setting up a band saw: czcams.com/video/tPRrEgnt7wM/video.html
Thankyou so much for this information! Your input is greatly appreciated.
I rip with the bandsaw all the time. If it's a large sheet, I use a track saw. I think in 10-20 years, table saws will be regarded as absurdly dangerous. Just like radial arm saws have become.
Seriously, I am still a novice and after studying a lot and talking to a lot of shop teachers, I figured out that I would NEVER use a tablesaw especially after seeing seasoned old professionals get mutilated after 50 yrs experience on one.
Bandsaw and tracksaw are my favorites in the shop and I'm doing great.
Dang! Those Harvey tools are pretty!
Yea. I had a nice grizzly ultimate 14" bandsaw. My home depot tablesaw cuts cleaner and straighter. With my bandsaw i have to worry about bandsaw drift and resetting all the blade guides every time i change a blade. And the bandsaw saw marks are heavy compared to a well sharpened tablesaw blade. If you dont need to make crazy curves skip the bandsaw. Thats my advice.
That saw should cut straight. It needs a proper setup.
I just wish that I had the bucks- and shop space- for a band saw.
Hey James, what's the reason for setting up your side guide bearing so far back on the bandsaw with the wide blade (Minute 4:26 for reference)? I was always taught that the bearing edge should be as close to the gullet of the teeth as possible wihtout touching the teeth when under load.
There is no reason other than it was likely set up for a narrower blade and not changed when the wider one was put on. The video was shot a couple years ago, I am sure it's been properly adjusted since then.
@@StumpyNubs Ahh, thanks for clarifying!
i just split some 2x6's from lowes and they pinched so hard they stalled my 5hp table saw. Never seen anything like it. I was using a powerfeeder only reason it didnt throw them back at me.
If one could only get one or the other, table saw or bandsaw, which should they get?
Table saw. It's more versatile for more things. But there's an argument for just using a track saw and a band saw. Just takes a little more patience, and you'd just have to do most joinery on the router table if you didn't have the table saw.
Table saw or band saw, both involve 'open' blades. If the issue is safety why not go for a good quality track saw? Combined with an MFT top they make for a safer option in my opinion, and don't demand so much room in the smaller shop.
My husband has a 12 in bandsaw he rips with a 6 teeth per inch one quarter inch blade
As far as positioning the blade on the wheel, what about when you put a wide blade on your saw. Like a 1 inch blade (provided your saw can do that). You can't put that in the middle of the wheel. Is that going to be a problem?
If the blade is very wide and you can't center it on the wheel, the alternative is to center the gullets of the teeth on the wheel, assuming your guides can be adjusted to allow that.
I don't follow. Are you saying to let the back half of the wide (1" blade) blade hang over the wheel in order to center the gullets?@@StumpyNubs
That's the Snodgrass method. He says center the gullets on the wheel. The idea is the front of the blade needs support more than the back. But if the blade hangs too much off the back, your guides won't allow it. So you won't be able to use a blade that wide.
@@StumpyNubs yes. I used his method to set up my saw. I am currently using a 3/4 wood slicer so I can get the fillets in the center. I was just wondering about a 1" blade. So, it's okay for some of the blade to hang over the back edge of the wheel? I am using a 17" Grizzly.
@@befmx31 It's not going to hurt the blade. Just make sure you can still keep it on the wheel, and properly adjust your blade guides. The rear bearing, in particular, has to go back far enough.
My bandsaw has a sticker "Kill your tablesaw". Most of my wood is from trees in my backyard and I don't need a tablesaw to crosscut
On the wide blade your lateral guides are so far back the rear ones don't even appear to be touching the blade. Am I missing something?
I was wondering ing the same thing!
Everything James said is correct. I would just propose the title is a bit misleading. These are all rough rip cuts. The bandsaw or for that matter a hand saw are the safest and most effective tools for rough rip cuts. You should never be rough ripping or freehand ripping on a table saw The only exception being when the board is attached to a guide made of plywood or MDF to run along the fence. That said the surface you get from a bandsaw, no matter the blade, will be nothing close to that of a table saw. If you are cutting to a line you will need to leave a fair amount of material to plane or sand to the line. With a table saw at most you are cleaning up a few burn marks.
Great video. I found a tool to help with making my fence parallel with the blade. Carter makes something called their F.A.S.T. System. First time I used, I got a perfect resaw.
Hi stumpy. I’m beginning my journey into woodworking. Retired from the navy i am enjoying my shop and decided to begin my learning curve by building decorative boxes. I am learning lots but I’ll be darned if i can get decent mitres when the time for clamping and glueing are concerned. From table saw to coping sled nothing like perfection is happening. The pieces I start with are referenced and square. I’ve built many boxes and the are improving each build with the exception of the mitred corners. Might be a video that could help others as well. Great videos. Thanks so much. Andy. S.
Keep in mind that even if the corners are all perfectly 45 degrees, if one side is slightly shorter than the opposite side, the corners won't line up... Also, beware of the workpiece deflecting (moving away) from the blade a tiny bit during the cut. Try using a sled or putting sandpaper on the miter fence for better grip.
Stay patient and practice. I started just over a year and had the same problem. My cuts are getting much better just with experience. Regardless of how many jigs you use, there’s still a “feel” to it.
Are you leaving a lil space for the glue by cutting at 45.2-45.5 degrees instead of 45? Definitely helps and the gap- if at all will always be on the inside of the joint instead of the outside and not visible. Helped me alot
@@johnnycorn7225 thank you Johnny. I’m going to give those new bevel angles a go. Sounds reasonable to me.
@@LyleAshbaugh Thanks for the encouragement Lyle. Too much fun to give up.
Where did you get that tall bandsaw fence? I have the C14 due to your review of it. Want a taller fence and some replacement blade guide rollers. Also would like to know why the red pointer in the upper compartment, that I assume has something to do with blade tension is just hanging with one screw and isn’t connected to anything else. Nothing in the manual about it. And I have yet to find any replacement parts listed on their website.
That's the fence that came with it. I just rotated the aluminum extrusion 90 degrees.
I do the same with mine. I also have the C14 and love it
@BobBob-eh5sb I have a C14 as well due to Stumpy’s review and discovered that Harvey does sell a taller fence for it. I ordered one and like it. From what I remember, you need to email their customer support to start the process. Hope this helps.
The Harvey bandsaw looks like a great bandsaw. I wish that the company sold their products in the USA through a dealership. The shipping costs are somewhat prohibitive
Adding a middleman never makes things cheaper. You'll have to pay shipping to the dealer, and the dealer markup.
Oh I see. The least expensive is $2300 with shipping.
James, you're great. But i ordered your $5 plan for a special shooting board two weeks ago and have heard nothing. What's up?
Did you check your junk mail? I can't really help here. I need your purchase info to look it up. Please contact me through my website. stumpynubs.com/inquiries/
I attach a point fence to my band saw fence
Something that isn't discussed frequently is bandsaw blade failures. In the event it does actually snap, because it relies on spring tension to pull the blade down, as soon as it is no longer a continuous loop, the tension is missing and the blade cannot continue. In the unusual event it wraps around the lower wheel, the blade with capture in the lower section of the body. This is one of my favorite, yet simple, inherent design of a pull force cut (in contrast to rotating blades).
Timbermills use bandsaws.
Although I looked at the Harvey Ambassador C14 bandsaw last night, while it was on sale; however, I couldn't pull the trigger on it knowing that the saw was manufactured in China and that I was potentially supporting the Chinese Communist Party....so instead I purchased a Laguna 14BX. Thanks for the video.
Looking forward to the SawStop company manufacturing a band saw !
It seems the only thing I rip on the table saw these days is plywood and panels. Not sure when or why, just sorta naturally shifted over the years.
Ironic you mention about table saw safety and the CPSC is back to proposing all table saws will have SawStop or similar technology starting sometime this year or early next. Hope my current saw works for a few more years as taking out a loan for a new one (estimated prices for table top saws is to rise to 5-600 bucks) will be prohibitive for fixed income people.
But then, what would you pay to have your fingers back?!