Thomas, you're very welcome! Your father was a great man for British photography and for advancing photographic chemistry in the world. A huge hero of mine for sure. Please drop me an email at pictorialplanet@gmail.com if there's more I might be able to do to continue your fathers legacy.
This is one developer I have never tried but it certainly does work well. The low toxicity makes this developer even more attractive…. Thanks once again for highlighting Crawley’s amazing contribution to photography.
Thanks for the great info on making FX-55. I just started mixing a few months ago after reading FDC and DCB and I'm having great fun experimenting. BTW Anchell suggests mixing a 0.2% solution of Phenidone using water and bisulfite as a preservative (Phen 2g, Sod Bisulfite 6g, cold water to make 1L). This may be more convenient than using propylene glycol if there's none around.
As I have never mixed my own developer before (and having been diagnosed with Lewy body dementia I’m trying as many new things as possible before I can’t) I was very dubious about the simplicity of FX55 but what a surprise I have just developed 3 rolls 1 kentmere 100 and 2 Fomapan 100 and the developer is excellent, I have been developing my own negs for years using commercial developers but this FX55 beats them it is now my go to developer and so economical I have enough chemicals to keep making it for years (if I last that long)I will still use the 510 pyro when I think it is needed but otherwise it will be FX55 so thank you for introducing me to this developer and keep up the good work on your channel.
Great comment. I too prefer FX55 over 510. I find the tonality is wonderful. So glad you are using it. May you have abundant years to photograph my friend.
Thank you John! It is always a pleasure to watch your videos. Recently I tried (just out of curiousity) FX-55 as a stand developer, working solution dilluted 1+3, for 60:00 min - and it worked just fine, with nice pleasant tones and without exessive grain
@@PictorialPlanet since then, I did few more test, and seems like working solution dilluted 1+2 for 60 min (rather than 1+3 I mentioned before) gives more consistent results.
I am finding the questions and answers as good as the video. Thanks! The order that you use to mix Part A chemicals (1-4) corresponds to 3, 4, 1 and 2 in the Film Developing Cookbook interestingly, who don't mention the 36 hours use by time. Great channel and congratulations on launching your book's 5th Edition
Hi Red Tree! This is an important question and I'm glad you asked!! I think many might mix this up but no, sodium ascorbate is not the same as ascorbic acid although both are classed as vitamin C. The sodium salt is used in some formulas like FX55 and the acid in others like 510-pyro but they are not interchangeable and won't work if one tries.
Just managed to get the chemicals to mix a batch of FX55 haven’t tried it yet but wow getting the Phenidone to dissolve in the propylene was a chore it took for ages, but looking forward to trying this dev on my next few rolls of film.
Thanks for another great video John. You must have a room full of developers on the go. I do miss some of the dev's Crawley turned out, I think through Paterson. This one will be added to the list to try in the future. I was trying to just set on one or two devs but you keep putting temptation in the way. Keep up the good work.
@@PictorialPlanet Having heard so much about Pyrocat HD I was going to make that one of them but must admit at the moment I have been disappointed with my results. Previously I used PMK. I find stained negs to be more inspiring to print from. After you showed 510 I added that to the list (thanks!) If I am honest I have never managed to settle on anything for very long. I always want to try the next 'silver bullet'. If you have some recommendations that would be great.
Hi John, did you see the video of Figital Revolution (Stephen Schaub) on DD-X Stand development? Very interesting. I thought T-Max Developer is very similar to DD-X, I did some stand development with my last leftovers and it was great (indeed rather 45 minutes though). Might give FX-55 a try though.
Hello John - Another huge "Thank You" for bringing this marvelous developer to the forefront. I am getting great results with FP4+ and Delta 100 in 120 and 35mm. I planning to give it a try with FP4+ sheet film, and I am curious if you have any insights/suggestions for using FX-55 with rotary/constant agitation processing. Thanks again for all you do - it is very much appreciated.
I don't do rotary processing but you could try it by reducing the development time by 25% and see how it is. I don't see why it won't work. Thank you for your kind words.
@@PictorialPlanet Hello John - I wanted to circle back on what I ended up with. I developed 6 sheets of FP4+ of the same test exposure at 8.5min as well as -10%, -15%, -20%, -25% and -30% and found that -15% was optimal for me. However, since then I have decided that FX-55 really isn't suitable for my 4x5 workflow as I use 65ml/sheet - usually 2-5 sheets in a session, leading to waste unless I can coordinate a roll film or two at the same time.
Why not try using Exactol Lux Long Life? It's diluted 1+1+100 so easy to make 100ml a time for each 4x5. It's very good with rotary processing being formulated with that in mind.
I've been reading Jay DeFehr's work on his Halcyon developer, which is based on Ascorbic Acid and PPD. His formula suggests using Salycylic Acid 0.5g/l to preserve the Ascorbic Acid. Salycylic Acid is used primarily as an iron sequestering agent in the formula. Adding Salycylic Acid may allow a longer than 36 hour shelf life of the working solution of FX-55. At this time I haven't tested this modification yet; also the Salycylic Acid is on order so it might be a few weeks before I can test this idea.
I found a thread on photo trio, in it Gadget Gainer suggested mixing part B as follows: Phenidone 1g Tea 10g (not 10ml) Ascorbic acid 12g In 100 ml glycol Use 10ml per ltr of part A This would allow you to store part A and B ready to mix together.
If I remember rightly he realised you'd need to double the glycol to get them in solution and therefore use 20ml per litre Part A. I've written about it in the new edition of my book shortly to be published.
Hi John, thanks for the videos. I'd like to know if there is a substitute for sodium ascorbate. Here in my country, it is difficult to find and when you do, it is very expensive. Thank you and happy holidays.
1.3 g of sodium ascorbate is replaced by 13 ml of a solution made by dissolving 9 g sodium bicarbonate and 4.2 g ascorbic acid in 100ml water (careful of fizzing - allow it to complete). This solution goes off quickly. Take your 13 ml and dump the rest, or scale down accordingly.
YO !!! Another Geoffrey Crawley FAN --- YES -- i followed his Formulae in the 1960s in the 'BJ' and have the OROGINAL ARTICLES copied ! He changed the amounts of Phenidone and Hydroquinone in his FX-4 over the years -- I have electronic Scales -- please what is the GRAM WEIGHT of the Sodium Ascorbate -- you only gave 1/4 Teaspoon ! I can weigh out 0.1 Gm Phenidone .
Hello Peter! Thanks for your comment and for viewing my channel. Yes, a fellow Crawley fan indeed. BTW, I've enjoyed your channel for some time as well sir, as well as the interesting and educational musings of Pentax Pete. So, the sodium ascorbate is 1.3g and I apologise for not making that clear. Thanks again for watching my ... mmmm stuff ;)
@@PictorialPlanet I may be able to find them and SCAN them and e-mail them to you -- i made paper negs of the pages all those years ago then 'Contact Printed' them onto other sheets of the high contrast Document paper -- NO SCANNERS invented in the 1960's!!
Hi John, is it possible to replace sodium metabisulphite with the potassium salt? I think this releases less sulphite into solution so I'd have to add more? Thanks a lot in advance, Stan..
Hello,Thank you for the video. I see you use transparent bottles to stock your preparations. Is there no issues with light (UV ) ? thank for answer. Sorry for aproximativ english, i'm french :)
I understand your question and it's a good one but my darkroom has no window and is dark 99% of the time so no, no problem at all. I always tell folk that you can use clear bottles as long as you either keep them in a cupboard or in the dark(room). Thanks for you great comment!
I have not found is an answer to the difference between propylene glycol and TEA (Triethanolamine), do you know if they are interchangeable or any differences other then their chemical makeup? Thanks, Adriel
Dear John! I will buy your book, I just realised you have one out. I did not see any lith developers in the table of content, do you have any recommendation for that scenario?
Another question, in this video and in your book you have phenidone in propylene glycol, on your website you mention using IPA for creating the solution. any pros or cons between the two?
Good question, C. I believe propylene glycol is the best way to preserve phenidone. The alcohol method is good but the glycol method is better. Alcohol absorbs water and water dissolves oxygen which deteriorates the phenidone. Glycol doesn't seem to have this problem.
Hi JOHN again -- not had good results - The Phenidone IS Old but it does dissolve well -- I looked at Sodium Bi-Carbonate -- I found you mentioned the Cooking Version and found by research that Cooking Bicarb contains ALUMINIUM and other 'Additives' to stop it 'caking' so I ordered some 'pure' Bicarb with NO Aluminium and will try it on Formulae which use it ans see such as FX-15, FX-37 FX-55 ---
Well, I've had sodium ascorbate for around a year with no obvious degradation. I keep it sealed in a dark cool cupboard. It's pretty cheap though so not a huge problem.
Thanks for some great channel content John. I am about ready to start mixing my own developer but I wanted to ask a question about scales. I have been using a mixture of kitchen scales and syringes which seem to be ok-ish for premixed chemicals. I suspect for my own chemistry things will need to be more accurate; can you recommend a good set of scales or features to look for in scales that improve accuracy?
Hey John, watching your video I was getting curious and got all the ingredients to try out FX-55 :) In the past I mainly used Xtol/XT-3. Anyway, I had a quick look in FDC2 and read a hint that distilled water could be used to avoid impurities like copper, etc. Are you using tap water when preparing FX-55?
@@PictorialPlanet Hello John, thanks for the swift answer. This is the first time I'm manual putting together the individual chemicals for a B/W film developer. Today I got the necessary chemical and prepared Part A as well as the Phenidone Gycol mixure for FX-55. Mixing the Phenidone and Gycol I was a bit surprised that many "snow" flakes remained after 4-5 minutes for stiring - but those disappeared after leaving the solution for 1-2h at rest. Then putting together Part A I did not observe the "peach" colour change when adding the 25g of Sodium sulfite. Is this colour change not always occuring? Oh dear, hope I did nothing wrong.
You're probably fine. Someone else said there's didn't go peach and it was a good developer. It may be that I have an impurity in one of my chemicals that makes that colour.
@@PictorialPlanet Hello John, yes, after the first tests with HP5 the result turned out good :) Thanks again for the nice video and looking forward to the next ones. All the best Marcus
So I'm seeing, after dilution, just 2.5 g/L sodium sulfite in the working solution -- that's in the range of Rodinal! How can it make the grain so unnoticeable? BTW, I've used 91% isopropyl alcohol for making a phenidone stock solution in the past -- must be 91%, the more common 70% has too much water to preserve the phenidone. The advantage, of course is that (at least in the USA) you can buy 91% isopropanol at any drug store (chemist's) and many supermarkets for around a dollar a quart. This clearly doesn't do one of the things I like most about Xtol: pour and go with stock solution, replenish, and developer cost is under 25 cents a roll. This might compete on cost (depending what the potassium carbonate and phenidone cost), but having to mix a liter or half liter before processing, and then having to mix the Part A solution ahead really eats into convenience. I will give it a try, though. I'll have to order in a couple ingredients, but I'm very willing to compare it against what I've been getting with Xtol replenished stock.
The fine grain is not unusual for many developers with low sulphite levels. 510-pyro for instance has zero sulphite but very fine grain. You can't compare developers that simply because of the many differences. I also used to use isopropyl alcohol 90+ percent to store phenidone but switched to TEA and then to glycol as my preference. Finally, cost savings might be one reason some might make their own developers but there are more important ones to me. Reliability for one (Kodak have been having problems again with their powders), knowing that the manufacturer won't stop making your favourite brew (I lost many developers through the years), and the joy of making your own chemistry for your film something many of us love. I hope you like FX55. It's hardly less convenient but a lot of fun.
Thank you for another informative video. Much appreciated. I am intrigued. Given that it is a less toxic eco-developer, how does that effect its waste disposal? I am keen to find ways to be more mindful of the planet- and still have good results. I live on a farm, use well water and septic. Thanks in advance.
Hello! I used box speed and 13 minutes at 20C, Ilford agitation, for this series. I wanted a lot of contrast which I got. It's a nice print. There's grain in the shadows but to be expected as I blew up the 35mm neg. to at least 16x20 on the baseboard. Impressive developer and film.
have you tried FX55 on Kentmere pan 400 and if you have how was the results, I shoot a lot of that film because it's very cheap I have been using homemade d76 at 1:1
I've already made Pyrocat HD according to your instructions and it worked wonderfully, this one is next! Thank you for sharing your knowledge so selflessly. Would you say HP5+ achieves ISO 400 with FX55 and does it "push" at all, to, say... 1600? (Unfortunately I have no darkroom so I cannot test)
Fascinating. How careful do you have to be when handling the various chemicals involved? I would of course read any MSDS but just in case I decide to go down this rabbit hole. At the moment, I don't think I am ready to do so (got enough other more basic stuff to learn I think).
Fx-55 is a safe developer and very good indeed. In fact it's as good as any commercial developer I know. Definitely a good one to use if you want to make your own.
John, I wonder if you could comment on the possibility of mixing this up in smaller quantities. For example, could I mix this up in a 500 mL quantity by simply halfing all the chems? This would eliminate the need for accumulating additional films that need developing.
The problem here is measuring such small amounts of phenidone and sod. ascorbate. I've taken to making 500ml at a time, Sean but can only do this by using phenidone that's been dissolved in propylene glycol (PG) at 1% (1g dissolved in 75ml warmed PG then made up to 100ml with more PG). I add 5ml of this solution to part A using a syringe. For the sodium ascorbate I use 0.7g.
John, great video. What would you recommend for a stop bath and fixer when developing in FX-55, particularly if you're development time is less than 7 minutes?
I use a regular stop bath and fix with this developer. You can use any that I have shown on this channel or any commercial variation. Note, for tabular grain films use a rapid fix such as AGFA304 (shown on the channel) , TF3 in my book, or a rapid commercial fix like Ilford Hypam.
Thanks for the great video! I'm seriously considering giving it a chance and switch from D-76 :). Do you have dev times for the Fomapan films? I shoot them a lot, and can only find times for Foma 200.
Not sure if this is still monitored… where do you source your sodium ascorbate from? I’ve looked in Photographers Formulary and can only find ascorbic acid (so not the sodium salt version).
@@PictorialPlanet Thanks. I’ll look on eBay, too. Sodium Ascorbate is sold as “buffered Vitamin C” in the US, as a vitamin supplement; I’ll have to look into its purity level maybe.
@@PictorialPlanet (Maybe should stop separate thread for this..but here goes). What stop bath (acid or water) do you recommend for FX-55? I was thinking water, since there is carbonate accelerator, but thought I might check and save myself a messed up roll of film.
@@PictorialPlanet see…. that’s what happens when a dunderhead like myself spends too much time reading books and watching videos about developing film and paper (and doing it at the same time): the 22’s, 23’s, 76’s, 72’s and 55’s all meld into a big pile of mush and we end up asking silly questions…. Cheers!
Super interesting series! Is there a commercially available developer that closely resembles FX-55 that would save the work of mixing a developer at home? So far the only developer I've made myself is Caffenol with mixed results. I like the idea of Caffenol and FX-55 because of their low toxicity and would be keen to find something similar off the shelf.
I'm definitely inspired to try both this and FX15 from your videos (I tend to use pyrocat HD) On FX55 I'm wondering about the sodium ascorbate, one formula I have seen mentions L-ascorbic acid 1.3g to the working part A. I can see that from APC pure and other places. Guessing they are not quite the same thing? Can't see sodium ascorbate other than Amazon and similar food addictive places are coming up. Wondering where you source it from or is it all the same really? Thanks! Clearly I need to pick up a copy of your book
Ha, you definitely need a copy of my book :) it supports the channel. Ok, sodium ascorbate is NOT the same as ascorbic acid. They are both used in different formulas and, certainly in the case of FX55, cannot be interchanged. I buy sodium ascorbate from Amazon. Get the stuff that says it's pure. I've had good luck with this: Classikool Sodium Ascorbate Nutritional Food Grade Vitamin C Powder (1kg/ 1000g) www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B086QZ38N8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_F60YH9KWY1DGHASE2W49 Thanks for thinking of buying my book. Remember, you can join the book support group on FB Pictorial Planet Camera Club
Hello! Mixing liquids is much easier than mixing powders. D I understand correctly that propylene glycol won't damage any of the ingredients that can be used in various developers (specifically, in POTA: phenidone and sodium sulfite)?
True about the liquids. Propylene glycol dissolves phenidone and is neutral PH so won't effect a developer it's used in. You probably know already but for others reading this thread glycol won't dissolve sodium sulphite or sodium ascorbate.
@@PictorialPlanet thank you for your prompt reply! Unfortunately, my knowledge is rather partial. So your note on sodium sulphite is a news to me. Thank you for all the information you're sharing with all of us on your channel! It's really very useful!
Yes, I have used FX-37. I like it for tabular grain films but most of the time I use classic grain films like FP4, HP5, and Pan F. These films are better with FX15, FX55 and others.
Hi John, I have two questions - 1/ do you have any indication how many films you can develop with one liter of FX-55? 2/ Today I made for the first time FX-55 but when adding sodium sulphite there was no color change? Is this ok or did I do something wrong? many thanks upfront for all the practical info
Hi Dirk, the lack of colour change might be for any number of reasons but I suspect everythings ok if you added all the chemicals required. Of course the real test will be how it develops a film. Try it on a test film first. Secondly, I use FX55 as a one shot developer. That does not mean it won't develop another film immediately after te first and again you could check this with a second test film - there may well be anough developing agents still left in the used working developer to work again - however, the way I use the developer is to dilute my litre of working part A, add the phenidone and sodium ascorbate and dissolve, then decant off this litre how much I need for a film keeping the excess in a stoppered bottle with a squirt of lighter gas over it. This excess working developer keeps for 36 hours so the next day I can develop another film no problem.
I use home brew developer all the time, since the mid nineties. Before then I used them on and off, more on but I did use some commercial developers. When I learned photography, in the sixties, most photographers in U.K., that I knew, used home brew developers most of the time.
@@PictorialPlanet Just made a batch of this up using Patrick Gainer's FX55 mod for the part b , from your exellent notes in your book . I can't see anywhere information as to shelf life of the modded part b .With the TEA and the PG would it be safe to assume it has a long shelf life, and would it benefit from a puff of butane to keep it fresh in the bottle ?
Jevon, I love that you did that! It's a much easier way to use FX55 and works well if you apply the extra time I speak about. This modified part B will last years! This is great!!
Sodium sulphite (not to be confused with sodium sulphate) is usually sold as a white slightly granular powder. This is the anhydrous version. The crystalline version looks distinctly crystalline. What does yours look like, Dirk?
@@PictorialPlanet I have bought Sodium Sulfite from bellinifoto - it looks crystaline - so the anhydrous version looks crystalline, right? and this is what i need for D-23, am i correct? sorry for all this very basic question due to my poor chemical knowledge - really looking forward to your book :-)
Thats a good way to keep the Phenidon long lasting and more accurate dosing. How much Phenidon could be solved in Glycol? I am asking because i bought 50g Phenidon as minimum amount and that would result in a 5L phenidonsolution…
@@PictorialPlanet Thank you very much, 50g Phenidon and 1l Glycol. And then measuring 2ml from that to get 0.1g Phenidon right? Sounds good and manageable…
Hello John. I made up some FX-55 following the instructions. I shot some Fomapan 400 asa at 400 and at 200 asa. I developed them in FX-55 1+1 for 10 min at 20 dge C. Result was an almost blank clear fim with a couple of 'ghost' images. So I thought not enough development time. I shot some more negatives of the same scenes at the same exposures. I developed these at 20 min at 20 deg C. Result was exactly the same as the first film. Blank negatives! I don't think it is a suitable developer for Fomapan films. Probably that is why I could not find any relative development information on the 'Massive Development Chart'. Never mind it's more experience. I will contiue to use Chris Patton's E-76 developer which I know works with tis film stock. I just thought that I used an acid fix - would that have anything to do with this disaster?
I wonder if you used ascorbic acid instead of sodium ascorbate? They are not interchangeable but you can convert the acid to the salt with sodium bicarbonate. I recently did a video on it. Oh, btw, there's no 1+1 with FX55, it's used straight.
@@PictorialPlanet Hello John. Yes I followed your video on converting ascorbic acid into sodium ascorbate using sodium bicarbonate. I have just seen your last comment about FX-55 dilution. Maybe that is where the problem lies! I think my misake was thinking it is a 'D76 Type Developers Part 5: Best Dilutions To Use'. Simple mistake but easily rectified.
@@PictorialPlanet Hello John. Today I made some fresh FX-55 using 'fresh' ingredients and used it to develop another set of Fomapan 400 asa negatives. I used it at stock solution 15' @20 deg C. Result is a completely blank film. Even the edge markings are gone. I did not make any mistakes during the process. I cannot understand what is happening with is combination.
Hi John, Thanks for reviewing my fathers FX-55. He was very proud of his developers. Nice to see his formula is still being used today.
Thomas, you're very welcome! Your father was a great man for British photography and for advancing photographic chemistry in the world. A huge hero of mine for sure. Please drop me an email at pictorialplanet@gmail.com if there's more I might be able to do to continue your fathers legacy.
This is one developer I have never tried but it certainly does work well.
The low toxicity makes this developer even more attractive….
Thanks once again for highlighting Crawley’s amazing contribution to photography.
Thanks for the great info on making FX-55. I just started mixing a few months ago after reading FDC and DCB and I'm having great fun experimenting. BTW Anchell suggests mixing a 0.2% solution of Phenidone using water and bisulfite as a preservative (Phen 2g, Sod Bisulfite 6g, cold water to make 1L). This may be more convenient than using propylene glycol if there's none around.
Hi John, everything went great !!! Thank you so much for this video and for this great developer of the mythical Geoffrey Crawley. 🤩
Good news, Luigi!
As I have never mixed my own developer before (and having been diagnosed with Lewy body dementia I’m trying as many new things as possible before I can’t) I was very dubious about the simplicity of FX55 but what a surprise I have just developed 3 rolls 1 kentmere 100 and 2 Fomapan 100 and the developer is excellent, I have been developing my own negs for years using commercial developers but this FX55 beats them it is now my go to developer and so economical I have enough chemicals to keep making it for years (if I last that long)I will still use the 510 pyro when I think it is needed but otherwise it will be FX55 so thank you for introducing me to this developer and keep up the good work on your channel.
Great comment. I too prefer FX55 over 510. I find the tonality is wonderful. So glad you are using it. May you have abundant years to photograph my friend.
Thank you John! It is always a pleasure to watch your videos. Recently I tried (just out of curiousity) FX-55 as a stand developer, working solution dilluted 1+3, for 60:00 min - and it worked just fine, with nice pleasant tones and without exessive grain
That’s very interesting.
@@PictorialPlanet since then, I did few more test, and seems like working solution dilluted 1+2 for 60 min (rather than 1+3 I mentioned before) gives more consistent results.
Thank you, thank you for your update. I will try this. Can you drop me an email so I can keep in touch?
@@PictorialPlanet of course John! It would be great
I am finding the questions and answers as good as the video. Thanks! The order that you use to mix Part A chemicals (1-4) corresponds to 3, 4, 1 and 2 in the Film Developing Cookbook interestingly, who don't mention the 36 hours use by time. Great channel and congratulations on launching your book's 5th Edition
Thank you!
Hi John, is Sodium Ascorbate the same as Ascorbic Acid and the same as Vitamin C for the purpose of this developer please?
Hi Red Tree! This is an important question and I'm glad you asked!! I think many might mix this up but no, sodium ascorbate is not the same as ascorbic acid although both are classed as vitamin C. The sodium salt is used in some formulas like FX55 and the acid in others like 510-pyro but they are not interchangeable and won't work if one tries.
@@PictorialPlanet thank you. Glad I asked!
Thanks!
You're welcome
Just managed to get the chemicals to mix a batch of FX55 haven’t tried it yet but wow getting the Phenidone to dissolve in the propylene was a chore it took for ages, but looking forward to trying this dev on my next few rolls of film.
Good job dissolving the phenidone! FX55 is worth it.
Thanks for another great video John. You must have a room full of developers on the go. I do miss some of the dev's Crawley turned out, I think through Paterson. This one will be added to the list to try in the future. I was trying to just set on one or two devs but you keep putting temptation in the way. Keep up the good work.
I'm curious, which one it two are you considering? It's definitely the right thing to do.
@@PictorialPlanet Having heard so much about Pyrocat HD I was going to make that one of them but must admit at the moment I have been disappointed with my results. Previously I used PMK. I find stained negs to be more inspiring to print from. After you showed 510 I added that to the list (thanks!) If I am honest I have never managed to settle on anything for very long. I always want to try the next 'silver bullet'. If you have some recommendations that would be great.
Drop me a line at pictorialplanet@gmail.com, Steve.
So cool.
Thanks
Hi John, did you see the video of Figital Revolution (Stephen Schaub) on DD-X Stand development? Very interesting. I thought T-Max Developer is very similar to DD-X, I did some stand development with my last leftovers and it was great (indeed rather 45 minutes though). Might give FX-55 a try though.
Hello John - Another huge "Thank You" for bringing this marvelous developer to the forefront. I am getting great results with FP4+ and Delta 100 in 120 and 35mm. I planning to give it a try with FP4+ sheet film, and I am curious if you have any insights/suggestions for using FX-55 with rotary/constant agitation processing. Thanks again for all you do - it is very much appreciated.
I don't do rotary processing but you could try it by reducing the development time by 25% and see how it is. I don't see why it won't work. Thank you for your kind words.
@@PictorialPlanet Hello John - I wanted to circle back on what I ended up with. I developed 6 sheets of FP4+ of the same test exposure at 8.5min as well as -10%, -15%, -20%, -25% and -30% and found that -15% was optimal for me. However, since then I have decided that FX-55 really isn't suitable for my 4x5 workflow as I use 65ml/sheet - usually 2-5 sheets in a session, leading to waste unless I can coordinate a roll film or two at the same time.
Why not try using Exactol Lux Long Life? It's diluted 1+1+100 so easy to make 100ml a time for each 4x5. It's very good with rotary processing being formulated with that in mind.
I've been reading Jay DeFehr's work on his Halcyon developer, which is based on Ascorbic Acid and PPD. His formula suggests using Salycylic Acid 0.5g/l to preserve the Ascorbic Acid. Salycylic Acid is used primarily as an iron sequestering agent in the formula. Adding Salycylic Acid may allow a longer than 36 hour shelf life of the working solution of FX-55. At this time I haven't tested this modification yet; also the Salycylic Acid is on order so it might be a few weeks before I can test this idea.
This sounds like an interesting line of investigation, Dave.
I found a thread on photo trio, in it Gadget Gainer suggested mixing part B as follows:
Phenidone 1g
Tea 10g (not 10ml)
Ascorbic acid 12g
In 100 ml glycol
Use 10ml per ltr of part A
This would allow you to store part A and B ready to mix together.
If I remember rightly he realised you'd need to double the glycol to get them in solution and therefore use 20ml per litre Part A. I've written about it in the new edition of my book shortly to be published.
Hi John, thanks for the videos. I'd like to know if there is a substitute for sodium ascorbate. Here in my country, it is difficult to find and when you do, it is very expensive. Thank you and happy holidays.
1.3 g of sodium ascorbate is replaced by 13 ml of a solution made by dissolving 9 g sodium bicarbonate and 4.2 g ascorbic acid in 100ml water (careful of fizzing - allow it to complete). This solution goes off quickly. Take your 13 ml and dump the rest, or scale down accordingly.
YO !!! Another Geoffrey Crawley FAN --- YES -- i followed his Formulae in the 1960s in the 'BJ' and have the OROGINAL ARTICLES copied ! He changed the amounts of Phenidone and Hydroquinone in his FX-4 over the years -- I have electronic Scales -- please what is the GRAM WEIGHT of the Sodium Ascorbate -- you only gave 1/4 Teaspoon ! I can weigh out 0.1 Gm Phenidone .
Hello Peter! Thanks for your comment and for viewing my channel. Yes, a fellow Crawley fan indeed. BTW, I've enjoyed your channel for some time as well sir, as well as the interesting and educational musings of Pentax Pete. So, the sodium ascorbate is 1.3g and I apologise for not making that clear. Thanks again for watching my ... mmmm stuff ;)
By the way Pete, how can I get my hands on those original articles by Crawley?
@@PictorialPlanet I may be able to find them and SCAN them and e-mail them to you -- i made paper negs of the pages all those years ago then 'Contact Printed' them onto other sheets of the high contrast Document paper -- NO SCANNERS invented in the 1960's!!
Blimey, that's passion Pete. If you can send them I'd really appreciate it. pictorialplanet@gmail.com
Great!
Thanks!
Hi John, is it possible to replace sodium metabisulphite with the potassium salt? I think this releases less sulphite into solution so I'd have to add more? Thanks a lot in advance, Stan..
Multiply the weight of the sodium salt by 1.17 to use the potassium salt. Should work I think but I've not tried it.
John, where online zould you recommmend sourcing the chemicals? :) (Europe, mainland if possible). Cheers!
Hi Alexander! Check out my website. I have a page for you.
Hello,Thank you for the video.
I see you use transparent bottles to stock your preparations.
Is there no issues with light (UV ) ?
thank for answer.
Sorry for aproximativ english, i'm french :)
I understand your question and it's a good one but my darkroom has no window and is dark 99% of the time so no, no problem at all. I always tell folk that you can use clear bottles as long as you either keep them in a cupboard or in the dark(room). Thanks for you great comment!
I have not found is an answer to the difference between propylene glycol and TEA (Triethanolamine), do you know if they are interchangeable or any differences other then their chemical makeup?
Thanks,
Adriel
TEA is quite alkaline when mixed with water and thus changes the PH of the developer. PG is more or less neutral.
Dear John!
I will buy your book, I just realised you have one out. I did not see any lith developers in the table of content, do you have any recommendation for that scenario?
Hi Zab! Thank you! I don't have any lith recommendations. Maybe that's good content for another book.
Another question, in this video and in your book you have phenidone in propylene glycol, on your website you mention using IPA for creating the solution. any pros or cons between the two?
Good question, C. I believe propylene glycol is the best way to preserve phenidone. The alcohol method is good but the glycol method is better. Alcohol absorbs water and water dissolves oxygen which deteriorates the phenidone. Glycol doesn't seem to have this problem.
@@PictorialPlanet thanks. i'll comtinue plan to use glycol.
Hi JOHN again -- not had good results - The Phenidone IS Old but it does dissolve well -- I looked at Sodium Bi-Carbonate -- I found you mentioned the Cooking Version and found by research that Cooking Bicarb contains ALUMINIUM and other 'Additives' to stop it 'caking' so I ordered some 'pure' Bicarb with NO Aluminium and will try it on Formulae which use it ans see such as FX-15, FX-37 FX-55 ---
Good idea 👍
got a small question: do you know how long one can storage the sodium ascorbate for solution B ?
Well, I've had sodium ascorbate for around a year with no obvious degradation. I keep it sealed in a dark cool cupboard. It's pretty cheap though so not a huge problem.
Thanks for some great channel content John. I am about ready to start mixing my own developer but I wanted to ask a question about scales. I have been using a mixture of kitchen scales and syringes which seem to be ok-ish for premixed chemicals. I suspect for my own chemistry things will need to be more accurate; can you recommend a good set of scales or features to look for in scales that improve accuracy?
Today's video is for you!
@@PictorialPlanet Thanks, appreciated!!
Hey John, watching your video I was getting curious and got all the ingredients to try out FX-55 :) In the past I mainly used Xtol/XT-3.
Anyway, I had a quick look in FDC2 and read a hint that distilled water could be used to avoid impurities like copper, etc. Are you using tap water when preparing FX-55?
Hello FS, thanks for your comment. Yes, distilled water is important if you have any doubts or concerns about your tap water.
@@PictorialPlanet Hello John, thanks for the swift answer. This is the first time I'm manual putting together the individual chemicals for a B/W film developer. Today I got the necessary chemical and prepared Part A as well as the Phenidone Gycol mixure for FX-55. Mixing the Phenidone and Gycol I was a bit surprised that many "snow" flakes remained after 4-5 minutes for stiring - but those disappeared after leaving the solution for 1-2h at rest. Then putting together Part A I did not observe the "peach" colour change when adding the 25g of Sodium sulfite. Is this colour change not always occuring? Oh dear, hope I did nothing wrong.
You're probably fine. Someone else said there's didn't go peach and it was a good developer. It may be that I have an impurity in one of my chemicals that makes that colour.
@@PictorialPlanet Hello John, yes, after the first tests with HP5 the result turned out good :) Thanks again for the nice video and looking forward to the next ones. All the best Marcus
Good news, Marcus, thank you!
So I'm seeing, after dilution, just 2.5 g/L sodium sulfite in the working solution -- that's in the range of Rodinal! How can it make the grain so unnoticeable?
BTW, I've used 91% isopropyl alcohol for making a phenidone stock solution in the past -- must be 91%, the more common 70% has too much water to preserve the phenidone. The advantage, of course is that (at least in the USA) you can buy 91% isopropanol at any drug store (chemist's) and many supermarkets for around a dollar a quart.
This clearly doesn't do one of the things I like most about Xtol: pour and go with stock solution, replenish, and developer cost is under 25 cents a roll. This might compete on cost (depending what the potassium carbonate and phenidone cost), but having to mix a liter or half liter before processing, and then having to mix the Part A solution ahead really eats into convenience.
I will give it a try, though. I'll have to order in a couple ingredients, but I'm very willing to compare it against what I've been getting with Xtol replenished stock.
The fine grain is not unusual for many developers with low sulphite levels. 510-pyro for instance has zero sulphite but very fine grain. You can't compare developers that simply because of the many differences.
I also used to use isopropyl alcohol 90+ percent to store phenidone but switched to TEA and then to glycol as my preference.
Finally, cost savings might be one reason some might make their own developers but there are more important ones to me. Reliability for one (Kodak have been having problems again with their powders), knowing that the manufacturer won't stop making your favourite brew (I lost many developers through the years), and the joy of making your own chemistry for your film something many of us love.
I hope you like FX55. It's hardly less convenient but a lot of fun.
Thank you for another informative video. Much appreciated. I am intrigued. Given that it is a less toxic eco-developer, how does that effect its waste disposal? I am keen to find ways to be more mindful of the planet- and still have good results.
I live on a farm, use well water and septic.
Thanks in advance.
I have a sceptic and am not worried at dumping FX55 down the drain in to it.
@@PictorialPlanet Thanks so much - this helps a lot.
Hello John, what EI are you using Hp5+ and what was you developing time?Ta.
Hello! I used box speed and 13 minutes at 20C, Ilford agitation, for this series. I wanted a lot of contrast which I got. It's a nice print. There's grain in the shadows but to be expected as I blew up the 35mm neg. to at least 16x20 on the baseboard. Impressive developer and film.
Hi John,is this normal when i dissolved Sod.sulfite the color do not change to light pink like you did?
No problem. Yours is probably more pure than mine. Good stuff!
have you tried FX55 on Kentmere pan 400 and if you have how was the results, I shoot a lot of that film because it's very cheap I have been using homemade d76 at 1:1
No, haven't tried it myself.
I've already made Pyrocat HD according to your instructions and it worked wonderfully, this one is next! Thank you for sharing your knowledge so selflessly. Would you say HP5+ achieves ISO 400 with FX55 and does it "push" at all, to, say... 1600? (Unfortunately I have no darkroom so I cannot test)
I think you'd be safe to use HP5+ at 400. It might show more speed but I don't use HP5+. You should have good shadow detail at 400.
Fascinating. How careful do you have to be when handling the various chemicals involved? I would of course read any MSDS but just in case I decide to go down this rabbit hole. At the moment, I don't think I am ready to do so (got enough other more basic stuff to learn I think).
Fx-55 is a safe developer and very good indeed. In fact it's as good as any commercial developer I know. Definitely a good one to use if you want to make your own.
John, I wonder if you could comment on the possibility of mixing this up in smaller quantities. For example, could I mix this up in a 500 mL quantity by simply halfing all the chems? This would eliminate the need for accumulating additional films that need developing.
The problem here is measuring such small amounts of phenidone and sod. ascorbate. I've taken to making 500ml at a time, Sean but can only do this by using phenidone that's been dissolved in propylene glycol (PG) at 1% (1g dissolved in 75ml warmed PG then made up to 100ml with more PG). I add 5ml of this solution to part A using a syringe. For the sodium ascorbate I use 0.7g.
John, great video. What would you recommend for a stop bath and fixer when developing in FX-55, particularly if you're development time is less than 7 minutes?
I use a regular stop bath and fix with this developer. You can use any that I have shown on this channel or any commercial variation. Note, for tabular grain films use a rapid fix such as AGFA304 (shown on the channel) , TF3 in my book, or a rapid commercial fix like Ilford Hypam.
Thanks for the great video! I'm seriously considering giving it a chance and switch from D-76 :). Do you have dev times for the Fomapan films? I shoot them a lot, and can only find times for Foma 200.
Hi Lucas! Thanks for the comment. I'm sorry, I don't use those films.
What is the pH of solution A and the ph of the mixed fx55? Thank you.
The working solution has a PH of 9.3
Not sure if this is still monitored… where do you source your sodium ascorbate from? I’ve looked in Photographers Formulary and can only find ascorbic acid (so not the sodium salt version).
I source mine on eBay actually. The sodium salt seems more popular in Europe but you should find it there.
@@PictorialPlanet Thanks. I’ll look on eBay, too. Sodium Ascorbate is sold as “buffered Vitamin C” in the US, as a vitamin supplement; I’ll have to look into its purity level maybe.
Yes, same here. I've also seen it on Amazon pretty pure. Watch for the addition of citric acid for flavour, obviously not wanted for us :)
@@PictorialPlanet (Maybe should stop separate thread for this..but here goes). What stop bath (acid or water) do you recommend for FX-55? I was thinking water, since there is carbonate accelerator, but thought I might check and save myself a messed up roll of film.
Never mind, I saw over in the other video you used an acid stop for FX-55. Thanks.
Hi John . When I added the 25g of sodium sulfite the solution did NOT turn peach colored.
I'm sure the chemist is correct. Can this be a problem?
maybe because I used demineralized water ?
Could be the water or my sulphite was less pure.
Thank you very much. Tomorrow I try to use it for the first time (FP4). Could 8 minutes be a good starting point?@@PictorialPlanet
@LuigiGesi Yes
Lovely… well done! Thank you for sharing this. Do you know if anyone has used this developer with Lupex paper?
Hello Juan. FX55 is a film developer. I don't know of anyone who uses it with any paper.
@@PictorialPlanet see…. that’s what happens when a dunderhead like myself spends too much time reading books and watching videos about developing film and paper (and doing it at the same time): the 22’s, 23’s, 76’s, 72’s and 55’s all meld into a big pile of mush and we end up asking silly questions…. Cheers!
There's no silly question my friend. I have a video on E72 eco paper developer that will probably work well with your paper :)
Hi john, great video I was wondering what you think about Crawley fx5-b very fine gain developer does it have better results?
FX55 has better results.
@@PictorialPlanet can I
develop Adox cms 20 ii in fX 55
@johnjk2014 I have not used it
@@PictorialPlanet is this a print developer or film developer? I am sorry I got confused....
It's a film developer. I have not used Adox CMS 20 with FX55. I use Ilford films primarily.
Super interesting series! Is there a commercially available developer that closely resembles FX-55 that would save the work of mixing a developer at home? So far the only developer I've made myself is Caffenol with mixed results. I like the idea of Caffenol and FX-55 because of their low toxicity and would be keen to find something similar off the shelf.
Yes, I'd recommend Kodak's Xtol as a similar developer.
@@PictorialPlanet Thanks!
Hello John. Can the conversion formula for Sodium Ascorbate you describe be stored as a 10% solution or has it to be dumped after making?
Once made it doesn’t last long in solution. It would be best to make it immediately before use.
@@PictorialPlanet Thanks for the prompt reply John.
I'm definitely inspired to try both this and FX15 from your videos (I tend to use pyrocat HD) On FX55 I'm wondering about the sodium ascorbate, one formula I have seen mentions L-ascorbic acid 1.3g to the working part A. I can see that from APC pure and other places. Guessing they are not quite the same thing? Can't see sodium ascorbate other than Amazon and similar food addictive places are coming up. Wondering where you source it from or is it all the same really? Thanks! Clearly I need to pick up a copy of your book
Ha, you definitely need a copy of my book :) it supports the channel. Ok, sodium ascorbate is NOT the same as ascorbic acid. They are both used in different formulas and, certainly in the case of FX55, cannot be interchanged. I buy sodium ascorbate from Amazon. Get the stuff that says it's pure. I've had good luck with this:
Classikool Sodium Ascorbate Nutritional Food Grade Vitamin C Powder (1kg/ 1000g) www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B086QZ38N8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_F60YH9KWY1DGHASE2W49
Thanks for thinking of buying my book. Remember, you can join the book support group on FB Pictorial Planet Camera Club
Hello!
Mixing liquids is much easier than mixing powders. D I understand correctly that propylene glycol won't damage any of the ingredients that can be used in various developers (specifically, in POTA: phenidone and sodium sulfite)?
True about the liquids. Propylene glycol dissolves phenidone and is neutral PH so won't effect a developer it's used in. You probably know already but for others reading this thread glycol won't dissolve sodium sulphite or sodium ascorbate.
@@PictorialPlanet thank you for your prompt reply! Unfortunately, my knowledge is rather partial. So your note on sodium sulphite is a news to me.
Thank you for all the information you're sharing with all of us on your channel! It's really very useful!
You're very welcome. Please keep watching and check out my website for more.
have you ever try the fx-37?, i do never try by my self but i hear very good coments on it.
Cheers
Yes, I have used FX-37. I like it for tabular grain films but most of the time I use classic grain films like FP4, HP5, and Pan F. These films are better with FX15, FX55 and others.
Hi John, I have two questions - 1/ do you have any indication how many films you can develop with one liter of FX-55? 2/ Today I made for the first time FX-55 but when adding sodium sulphite there was no color change? Is this ok or did I do something wrong? many thanks upfront for all the practical info
Hi Dirk, the lack of colour change might be for any number of reasons but I suspect everythings ok if you added all the chemicals required. Of course the real test will be how it develops a film. Try it on a test film first. Secondly, I use FX55 as a one shot developer. That does not mean it won't develop another film immediately after te first and again you could check this with a second test film - there may well be anough developing agents still left in the used working developer to work again - however, the way I use the developer is to dilute my litre of working part A, add the phenidone and sodium ascorbate and dissolve, then decant off this litre how much I need for a film keeping the excess in a stoppered bottle with a squirt of lighter gas over it. This excess working developer keeps for 36 hours so the next day I can develop another film no problem.
1/ Same for me: no color change when adding the sodium sulfite (anhydrous, from Bellini photo). The developer still works perfectly.
Do you make your own paper developers? Are there simple recipes? Is rodinal able to develop papers?
czcams.com/video/Nd8pPZvOP1c/video.html
And Rodinal won't make a good paper developer.
Also, do you use a home brew developer in the majority of cases? Or is this simply experimental?
I use home brew developer all the time, since the mid nineties. Before then I used them on and off, more on but I did use some commercial developers. When I learned photography, in the sixties, most photographers in U.K., that I knew, used home brew developers most of the time.
@@PictorialPlanet thanks and Happy New Year.
Just found this video and would love to try this developer. Does the Propylene Glycol need to be heated up to fully dissolve the Phenidone? Thanks!
Yes, I heat it up to around 60c sometimes a tad more, but it can get hot quickly in the microwave so I'm cautious.
@@PictorialPlanet My tests are showing good dilution at 40c in propylene glycol .
Good to know, Jevon.
@@PictorialPlanet Just made a batch of this up using Patrick Gainer's FX55 mod for the part b , from your exellent notes in your book . I can't see anywhere information as to shelf life of the modded part b .With the TEA and the PG would it be safe to assume it has a long shelf life, and would it benefit from a puff of butane to keep it fresh in the bottle ?
Jevon, I love that you did that! It's a much easier way to use FX55 and works well if you apply the extra time I speak about. This modified part B will last years! This is great!!
Hi John, will sodium sulphite do ok for this developer or do i need sodium sulphite anhydrous like the D-23 developer?
Sodium sulphite (not to be confused with sodium sulphate) is usually sold as a white slightly granular powder. This is the anhydrous version. The crystalline version looks distinctly crystalline. What does yours look like, Dirk?
@@PictorialPlanet I have bought Sodium Sulfite from bellinifoto - it looks crystaline - so the anhydrous version looks crystalline, right? and this is what i need for D-23, am i correct? sorry for all this very basic question due to my poor chemical knowledge - really looking forward to your book :-)
If it's from Belliniphoto then it'll be perfect for the developer.
Thank you for ur lovely videos about mixing ur own chemicals! I LOVE E-72 and BTTB (for contrasty scenes)!
just saw u also answered this question already. so nevermind. :)
No problem J, there's no bad question :)
Thats a good way to keep the Phenidon long lasting and more accurate dosing. How much Phenidon could be solved in Glycol? I am asking because i bought 50g Phenidon as minimum amount and that would result in a 5L phenidonsolution…
My friend makes a five percent solution.
With any left after you've dissolved it you could freeze. That might help preserve it.
@@PictorialPlanet Thank you very much, 50g Phenidon and 1l Glycol. And then measuring 2ml from that to get 0.1g Phenidon right? Sounds good and manageable…
Sounds like a plan. You'll need to warm the glycol a little so do it in batches maybe?
@@PictorialPlanet Thanks, i bought one of these magnetic stirrer with a heating plate. Will be its first job… ;)
Hello John. I made up some FX-55 following the instructions. I shot some Fomapan 400 asa at 400 and at 200 asa. I developed them in FX-55 1+1 for 10 min at 20 dge C. Result was an almost blank clear fim with a couple of 'ghost' images. So I thought not enough development time. I shot some more negatives of the same scenes at the same exposures. I developed these at 20 min at 20 deg C. Result was exactly the same as the first film. Blank negatives! I don't think it is a suitable developer for Fomapan films. Probably that is why I could not find any relative development information on the 'Massive Development Chart'. Never mind it's more experience. I will contiue to use Chris Patton's E-76 developer which I know works with tis film stock. I just thought that I used an acid fix - would that have anything to do with this disaster?
I wonder if you used ascorbic acid instead of sodium ascorbate? They are not interchangeable but you can convert the acid to the salt with sodium bicarbonate. I recently did a video on it. Oh, btw, there's no 1+1 with FX55, it's used straight.
@@PictorialPlanet Hello John. Yes I followed your video on converting ascorbic acid into sodium ascorbate using sodium bicarbonate. I have just seen your last comment about FX-55 dilution. Maybe that is where the problem lies! I think my misake was thinking it is a 'D76 Type Developers Part 5: Best Dilutions To Use'. Simple mistake but easily rectified.
Good news. It's a nice developer!
@@PictorialPlanet Hello John. Today I made some fresh FX-55 using 'fresh' ingredients and used it to develop another set of Fomapan 400 asa negatives. I used it at stock solution 15' @20 deg C. Result is a completely blank film. Even the edge markings are gone. I did not make any mistakes during the process. I cannot understand what is happening with is combination.
Mmmmmm, can you email me your developer creation process?