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Pictorial Planet
United Kingdom
Registrace 20. 08. 2018
Sharing tips and personal views on analog film and darkroom workflow. From the author of The Art of Black and White Developing and Pictorial Planet website.
Geoffrey Crawley's FX55 Developer - The Best Way to Use It!
Today's video is the culmination of months of testing. We finally find what is the best way to use FX55. Thanks for watching!
If you like these videos why not become a Patreon of Pictorial Planet? Your patronage will support the making of these videos, my informative website, and the writing of my second book full of photographic goodness.
John Finch
Pictorial Planet
The wow moment video: czcams.com/video/DrpvFQ4GScQ/video.html
Semi-Stand with FX55: czcams.com/video/blT4q3ogC74/video.html
Two Bath Development with FX55 Pt1: czcams.com/video/jf1-1SiNTKA/video.html
Two Bath With FX55 Pt2: czcams.com/video/O9_5jrn1THw/video.html
Website: www.pictorialplanet.com Patreon: www.patreon.com/JohnFinch My Book: www.pictorialplanet.com/Book/book.html
If you like these videos why not become a Patreon of Pictorial Planet? Your patronage will support the making of these videos, my informative website, and the writing of my second book full of photographic goodness.
John Finch
Pictorial Planet
The wow moment video: czcams.com/video/DrpvFQ4GScQ/video.html
Semi-Stand with FX55: czcams.com/video/blT4q3ogC74/video.html
Two Bath Development with FX55 Pt1: czcams.com/video/jf1-1SiNTKA/video.html
Two Bath With FX55 Pt2: czcams.com/video/O9_5jrn1THw/video.html
Website: www.pictorialplanet.com Patreon: www.patreon.com/JohnFinch My Book: www.pictorialplanet.com/Book/book.html
zhlédnutí: 1 079
Video
Friday Tip - Kodak Automatic Dish Syphon
zhlédnutí 2,6KPřed měsícem
Today's tip is about a superb piece of kit, the Kodak dish siphon (syphon). This automatic siphon allows you to wash large prints in trays. Much cheaper than having to buy a huge prints washer. Thanks for watching! If you like these videos why not become a Patreon of Pictorial Planet? Your patronage will support the making of these videos, my informative website, and the writing of my second bo...
Semi-Stand Development - FX55
zhlédnutí 2,3KPřed měsícem
In today's video I examine whether Geoffrey Crawley's FX55 (FX-55) works well with reduced agitation or semi-stand development. Being a phenidone developer it should be less effected by development by-products and show little bromide drag but what of the compensation and increased sharpness that semi-stand can provide? Does FX55 show any of these characteristics? Take a look at my preliminary f...
Converging Verticals - An Easy Fix!
zhlédnutí 2,8KPřed 2 měsíci
In today's video we look at converging verticals, why we get them and I show how easy not is to fix them in the darkroom. Thanks for watching! If you like these videos why not become a Patreon of Pictorial Planet? Your patronage will support the making of these videos, my informative website, and the writing of my second book full of photographic goodness. John Finch Pictorial Planet Website: w...
Rodinal - Reducing That Grain - Update
zhlédnutí 2KPřed 2 měsíci
I've been doing some more work with the Rodinal Grain Reducer and have an update for you. TLDR: It works well with FP4 Plus. I used Adox Adonal for these tests. FP4 Plus developer 1 50 for 8 minutes (9 minutes 40 seconds for the Rodinal 1 50 with 10ml additive). Thanks for watching! If you like these videos why not become a Patreon of Pictorial Planet? Your patronage will support the making of ...
Rodinal - Reducing that Grain?
zhlédnutí 4,1KPřed 2 měsíci
Rodinal is one of my favourite developers and I love the way it looks but sometimes I might want to reduce the grain, especially if I want to print big from a small negative. Today I try a method sent to me by a Patreon of my channel, Tim. Follow my journey from taking the photograph to processing and scanning the negatives. I then print them big so you can see for yourself if the grain is redu...
HP5 Plus - Best in FX55 or D23 Replenished? You decide!
zhlédnutí 2,8KPřed 2 měsíci
Today I investigate whether my HP5 Plus and D23 Replenished combination can be bettered by Crawley's FX55. It's going to be a tough battle between these two. What do you think? Which one looks better to you? Thanks for watching! If you like these videos why not become a Patreon of Pictorial Planet? Your patronage will support the making of these videos, my informative website, and the writing o...
FX55 Diluted - A Wow Moment!
zhlédnutí 2,9KPřed 3 měsíci
Thanks for watching my videos. Today I demonstrate FX55 developer diluted 1 1. At a certain percentage of extra development the FP4 Plus negatives improve markedly. This is a remarkable Geoffrey Crawley developer. Thanks for watching! If you like these videos why not become a Patreon of Pictorial Planet? Your patronage will support the making of these videos, my informative website, and the wri...
Friday Tip - 3 Things You Should Do When Loading a 35mm Camera!
zhlédnutí 1,7KPřed 3 měsíci
Hi and thank you for watching my videos, I really appreciate it. Today's Friday Tip is all about the three things you should do when loading a 35mm camera. Get these three right and you'll be off to make great photographs! Thanks for watching! If you like these videos why not become a Patreon of Pictorial Planet? Your patronage will support the making of these videos, my informative website, an...
FX55 Developer Two-Bath Part 2 - Do Traditional Techniques Work?
zhlédnutí 1,3KPřed 3 měsíci
Today we continue our journey to find the best two bath solution for FX55 users. I investigate traditional two bath techniques and find something I like more. Thanks for watching! If you like these videos why not become a Patreon of Pictorial Planet? Your patronage will support the making of these videos, my informative website, and the writing of my second book full of photographic goodness. J...
Tip RH Designs Darkroom SafeTorch B&W
zhlédnutí 1,1KPřed 3 měsíci
Today's Friday Tip is about a gadget I use in the darkroom, RH Designs darkroom SafeTorch B&W. It's a red torch that us useful to quickly see something in the dim lights of the darkroom without fogging your darkroom paper. I've used it for a couple of years now and can recommend it. Thanks for watching! If you like these videos why not become a Patreon of Pictorial Planet? Your patronage will s...
FX55 Developer Two-Bath Part 1
zhlédnutí 1,6KPřed 3 měsíci
Today's video focusses on FX55 being used as a 2-bath. Geoffrey Crawley, formulator of FX55, gave us a clue on how to use a vitamin c developer as a two bath using a quite unusual technique with an earlier developer FX50. In this video I experiment with his technique to see if I understand it - and it appears I might not! Thanks for watching! If you like these videos why not become a Patreon of...
Friday's Tip - Easy Easel Setup
zhlédnutí 1,4KPřed 3 měsíci
Today's Friday tip is all about setting up your easel quickly for a print. Using templates we can make the most of our time, quickly getting the easel ready while we concentrate on the print. Thanks for watching! If you like these videos why not become a Patreon of Pictorial Planet? Your patronage will support the making of these videos, my information website, and the writing of my second book...
Do You Use an Archival Process? Try this!
zhlédnutí 1,9KPřed 4 měsíci
Thanks for watching Pictorial Planet! Today I dive deep into archival processing for film and paper. I look at: 1. Archival fixing 2. Archival washing 3. Post treatment Thanks for watching! If you like these videos why not become a Patreon of Pictorial Planet or buy my book? Your patronage will support the making of more videos, my informative website, pictorialplanet.com, and the writing of my...
Friday's Tip - Washing Prints More Efficiently
zhlédnutí 2KPřed 4 měsíci
Washing prints is important. I wash my prints in the sink, my RC prints for 30 minutes and my FB prints for an hour. In this video I provide a tip to help you keep those prints apart so the get a better water flow. Thanks for watching! If you like these videos why not become a Patreon of Pictorial Planet? Your patronage will support the making of these videos, my informative website, and the wr...
Friday Tip - Easel Markers and Why I Have Them
zhlédnutí 1,3KPřed 4 měsíci
Friday Tip - Easel Markers and Why I Have Them
Lichen and Moss. I thought I had a plan but I was wrong!
zhlédnutí 2,1KPřed 4 měsíci
Lichen and Moss. I thought I had a plan but I was wrong!
Friday Tip - Finished a film? Here's what to do next...
zhlédnutí 2KPřed 4 měsíci
Friday Tip - Finished a film? Here's what to do next...
April 1st 2024 - Making Auto Developing Paper
zhlédnutí 1,9KPřed 4 měsíci
April 1st 2024 - Making Auto Developing Paper
Friday Tip - Nailing Exposure for Reproduction
zhlédnutí 1,4KPřed 4 měsíci
Friday Tip - Nailing Exposure for Reproduction
Taking the Photograph - The Vase and Flower
zhlédnutí 3,5KPřed 5 měsíci
Taking the Photograph - The Vase and Flower
Do you Know the 25% Rule for Printing and Scanning?
zhlédnutí 3,6KPřed 5 měsíci
Do you Know the 25% Rule for Printing and Scanning?
Friday Tip - Why we can't and why we can use Ascorbic Acid with our FX-55 developer
zhlédnutí 1,3KPřed 5 měsíci
Friday Tip - Why we can't and why we can use Ascorbic Acid with our FX-55 developer
Friday Tip - Four ways to Stop Those Dreaded Airbells!
zhlédnutí 1,4KPřed 5 měsíci
Friday Tip - Four ways to Stop Those Dreaded Airbells!
Printing the Negative 3: Flat or Under-Developed Pyro Negatives. Method #2
zhlédnutí 1,5KPřed 5 měsíci
Printing the Negative 3: Flat or Under-Developed Pyro Negatives. Method #2
Friday Tip - Airbells on Your Negative? A Strategy to Stop Them.
zhlédnutí 1,5KPřed 5 měsíci
Friday Tip - Airbells on Your Negative? A Strategy to Stop Them.
Printing The Negative 2 - Improving Flat or Under-Developed Negatives. Method #1
zhlédnutí 2,8KPřed 5 měsíci
Printing The Negative 2 - Improving Flat or Under-Developed Negatives. Method #1
I never would have thought. I’ve always removed the tape thinking it might be bad for the chemistry. And never removed the paper first. So then I’m always struggling to tear it off with the film mostly in the reel at the end. AND I can see how the tape would make it a tad stiffer, therefore easier to start. Brilliant! Thanks!!
When you learn to draw, you learn 3 axis perspective. For of course in a natural perspective everything that is farther away seems smaller, also in the height. As you rightly stated, wide angle lenses exagerate perspective, and it shows most clearly when it comes to heights. But to "straighten these converging lines" up, ignores the 3 axis perspective. When you look up at a tower from a close distance the top is not as wide as the base. In your "corrected" picture the two outer posts seem actually to go outwards, because in a natural view we actually expect them to get narrower to each other the higher they get. This is a common error of overcorrection. Plus: What you cannot (and therefore didn't) correct is that the top is still not level and skew because it was photographed from below (look at the line over the left tower window in this example). Instead of a natural perspective which one can get when drawing a building, you created what is sometimes called "photography perspective", owing to the use of a distorting lens...
Another great video, John. Thanks. Do you make your own FX55? I would love to see a video on the use of your Zonemaster!
Thanks,Chris! I do make my own FX55 and have a couple of videos on it. Also thanks for the idea for a future video.
Hi John. Is two bath necessary if I'm only printing a dozen or so prints in a session with freshly mixed fix?
No, Rob. Fresh fix will work just fine for short runs like that.
Hi John, is it possible to replace sodium metabisulphite with the potassium salt? I think this releases less sulphite into solution so I'd have to add more? Thanks a lot in advance, Stan..
Multiply the weight of the sodium salt by 1.17 to use the potassium salt. Should work I think but I've not tried it.
Is it possible to get a variety of grain characteristics in the negative? For example, rich, thick grain in shadows and finer grain in highlights?
I would love to learn how to shoot and develop and print black and white film.
one tip, some meters, like the Minolta Spot meters have a button or mode which calculates this for you (S/A/H on the Minolta), which allows std metering in zone 5, but tells the meter you are 'shooting' a shadow or highlight, S\H buttons, thus shifting these back to the zone 3 or 8 which they are, so not making a silhouette of a grooms tux, when metering a brides white dress, or visa versa. The A or Average function of these meters takes these outliers and combines them, into one reading, for setting a camera, so ALL tones lie in this dynamic range of the film, and accounting for the contrast range of the scene, so they are not crunched into a flat image, but a vibrant one.
Thanks, Andy, helpful indeed!
great video, never knew that specular highlights where zone 10; and you are right about them at 3:23 as most ND \ND grads and polarisers deal with this zone, one would assume this is where the 1/2/3 stops of ND originate from, this "lowering" of Zone 10 to a detailed zone 7/8 where we want them.
First: thank you very much for the video Second: why isn't enough to take a look a the negatives? If the film isn't actually as sensitive as it should, wouldn't the first negative (the one after the hand shot) be as transparent as the lenscupon+fog one? In fact, its noticeable in your negatives, that the "supposedtobezone1" frame, is already distinguishable from the lenscupon one! Which means, i thought that the zone one was actually achieved successfully, therefor the film iso is the one actually claimed. ...heeeelp!!!
You miss the point that we are matching film, meter, and paper. It's not about just the film but at what EI does the paper show zone 1. This ties everything in together.
@@PictorialPlanet ...because the widest dynamic range we want to achieve in the end is on the paper, while printing! We arent interested in a theoretical ISO, but a practical one. I understand now, thanks John for your answer, you legend
That's perfect! Yes!! This is the key that changes everything about exposure and development. Thank you for understanding my, less than perfect, explanation.
For maximum control, would it help to cover the back side of the paper also? Would the bleach soak up through the bottom of the paper?
Can you advise how long it takes to sufficiently stop the development using a 2 percent vineger solution and what agitation method is used? Also do you prepare your development solutions using tap water or distilled water, and would you find a different result using one over the other? Thanks! I love your content!!!!
Thanks for your comment, Mark. With a 2% vinegar solution development will be stopped very quickly, a few short seconds as the emulsion absorbs the acid. The emulsion is swollen because of the previous development and able to absorb the stop almost instantly. I put in the stop and agitate constantly for around 10 to 15 seconds although I think development probably completely stopped after the first 5! I make my developers up with tap water here. The water is very good in north east Scotland. However, elsewhere water is not so good being contaminated with many chemicals including calcium (hard water). If you think that's the case where you are then use distilled or car battery water. If you're not sure, and you don't get a lot of fur (white calcium buildup) in your kettle, then use tap water. Once you dial in your development time you've taken into account any PH difference.
@@PictorialPlanet Thanks for the reply! I am graduating from using a monobath, and I find your explanations easy to follow, encouraging, and accessible to the beginner. I'm starting my adventure with Rodinal! You are a great teacher. Thank you!
This is OK for 35mm but I've found that it pays to be careful when developing 120 size film in a tank. I have had a problem where I agitated too vigurously and the action actually unwound the film off the spiral due to it being much wider than 35mm. The film ended up stuck to the side of the tank and ruined. I now make a point of noting which way the 120 film is on the spiral and twisting gently in the opposite direction to the direction the film is loaded onto it. The force of the film entering the end of the film then doesn't push the film out of the spiral!
The best flow of developer is into the "open" end of the spiralled film and this would only push the film into the spool. It sounds like you were rather vigorous! No need, just gentle twists are good.
I end up getting bromide drag every time I do stand development with homemade PaRodinal. Can't quite figure out the cause though.
This happens for some and it's usually cured by switching to semi-stand.
Hi, very much enjoy your videos. They are becoming a go-to in this area for me. Just a question about your video which I couldn't easily find the answer to on Google - what is cooking a print? Thank you,
Thanks for your comment, Peter. Cooking refers to over-developing.
I found this video very informative. I did not realize I had to agitate solutions (water & a rinse aid) in a film tank prior to washing. I used Photoflo in the past and I was obviously doing something very wrong because after the wash I could see muck all over an expendable negative I experimented on. I have a question for the uploader: Can I use this method to safely remove embedded dirt, debris or dust that is inside a film negative? Also, how do I prevent the washed negatives from curling?
You can re-wash negatives in de-ionised water with Ilford Ilfotol or equivalent. Do it twice with gentle intermittent agitation for about two minutes each time. This might remove dust that adhered to the negative. Don't squeegee as it could scratch the negative. To stop negatives curling use a film that dries flat such as Ilford films.
@@PictorialPlanet When I first experimented with Photo Flu I ended up with a hardened puddle of liquid on the negative after it dried. Is this because I did not agitate the water & rinse aid sufficiently?
How much did you use? Did you follow my instructions in this video?
@@PictorialPlanet To clarify, this is an experiment I performed before I even knew your video existed, no agitation was performed at the time. I would have used Kodak Photoflo as instructed on the bottle: One part to 200 parts water.
@@PictorialPlanet I've also noticed that washing with water causes the colours in a negative to shift (again, this is prior to discovering this video). How do you avoid this?
Thanks you John Finch so much. Your tips were very useful for me.
What a brilliant tip. Would be happy to see many more photography tips from you, John!
John - I'm a film photographer on a budget from Calcutta. Cannot express how much I appreciate this channel. I will save up and buy your book soon. Keep making these and helping us out. Cheers!
Cheers!!
Hero. ❤
Do the clothes pins not leave marks on the paper? The papers not sticking together? with RC if the papers touch when wet they usually stick and leave marks. The cloths pins too. Is FB different?
Always good advice 👍
I usually cut them 6 frames at the time from the bottom , scan and sleeve and so on until I reach the top.
I have been so inspired by your darkroom work the past couple days of watching your channel I pulled my Beseler 45M out of storage and set up my darkroom again. 🎉
Excellent news!
Do anybody know if 0.075 g is same as 750 mg? 🤔
No. 0.075g is 75mg
If I had to land a passenger plane in an emergency I'd want the maker of this video to be the guy talking me through it. So thank you for this video. Just watched this in Berlin and used it to load my first roll of 120 - without dramas. Appreciate your efforts with making it, the very clear and confident way you explain with just the right about of repeatition.
Hello John. Thanks for doing all of this testing for us. It really is helpful. One of the things I love about FX55 is the way it elevates budget filmstocks, such as Fomapan. Diluted FX55 + Fomapan 100 is amazing.
Absolutely amazing the look of both the photos and from 35mm. Would be interesting to see a slight reduction in the 10ml grain reduction amount to 6ml and shot again. Would love to see it in medium format. Great videos as always !!
Thank you 😊
cheers. subscribed!
But how about milligrams ? I need to measure 1-3 milligram accurately..
Half a gram is already 500mg, keep dividing and you'll eventually get to it
1-1
cool.. having never used pyro... does it make a huge difference to other developers when it comes to sharpness and grain? Have you compared say doing dev in standard chems like they would at a lab and then drum scanning the image and then do a print at the same size, and see if the wet print and a digital print are any different? Also... i know its tongue and cheek.. but there is nothing wrong with digital.... I shoot large format film and digital medium format, and they are a beautiful combination of many different things that yield the best results for the image I have in mind.
id like to see a close up of the 2nd shot, as moving the plane of focus im sure would of ended up with the ground not sharp or the roof not sharp?
Ive never used zone3... always zone 4 for much more play with processing the negative. Have always used grads or done N-1 or -2 development.
7:50 the turning with a twizzle stick is this a colour neg step? For BW is the standard agitation by moving gently around the same as with 35mm? 🔄
You can use the twizzle stick for black and white.
@@PictorialPlanet is that instead of agitating by inverting the Patterson tank?
@flowermaze___ yes, czcams.com/video/Ud-Aw6U7KH4/video.htmlsi=dBsm2ktHweHK8Tv5
Hello Sir, i am a follower of your channel, can you please advise how to develop pan f50 with ilford ddx developer? Thank you🙏
Sorry Mike. I don't use DDX.
@@PictorialPlanet No problem, thank you Sir🙏
Lol I used the inverse square law to do this with out knowing about this
Thank you ! One has to be sure, that every camera you use has correct exposure times for you do not have to test iso for every camera !
Cameras can have deviations in their shutter speeds and lenses but they are usually pretty accurate. What can be different if they're in built meters. For this reason I always recommend using a hand held meter. This way you can be more confident that your testing will match your cameras. It'll soon become apparent if one of your cameras needs a service.
Thank you so much for this tip. Much appreciated!
With night photography, when you have light sources in your frames, is this method good? Or i will have to shorten the development time even more?
John, I have made 200 ml. FX-55 part B just after the posting of your video. By this time, the (B) solution has become dark brown in colour and honey like in consistency. I prepared 100 ml. of working solution, which was golden in colour. Then I dropped a film leader of PanF + in it, which became quite black on the emulsion side by 13 minutes. Is my solution B alright?
Yes, mine is brown now too. It's the TEA that makes it brown. No problem.
Thanks for the excellent video. Please, how did you get 2.62?
Ah shit
Seems like it might be a waste of water no?
I wonder if watered down tooth paste on a white glove would polish it out. I used this method on a plastic motorcycle head light the once.
Ha! I've seen that work on old headlights too! No, don't do that to your negative! It'll scratch it terribly.
Is it 10% reduction of the print exposure in RC paper as well, or is it a different value? I did do film photography and development 30 years ago. I have just bought some 35mm and 6x6 and 6x9 cameras and a 6x6 B&W enlarger, film loaders. Just got to get film, paper and chemicals to get me started now. Nice videos
Try 5% first and see how it dries down. Adjust to taste.
Hiya John. Thanks for this. I've done similar tests with other developers and now want to play about with the 510Ptro. If I find anything interesting I'll give you a shout. Best wishes from The Rhondda.
That sounds great, Ray. I hope you find something interesting that you can report back with. 510. Pyro is a very versatile developer. You're bound to find something.
This comment is about BT2B. In one batch I prepared the developer, I missed to correct the sodium metaborate tetrahydrate concentration against the octahydrate in Bath B and used the whole 12 g/L. I have developed a role of Eastman 5222 exposed at 200 iso in both Sunny and overcasted situations . The film came out to be amazing with contrast and the tonal range even a little increase in film speed. Same thing I have observed for foma 200 (exposed at 160) and kentmere 400 (exposed at 400) but double X was the best. Double X developed for 4 min in bath A with initial 30 sec with continuous agitation then 10 sec every minute. In bath B 4 min with first 10 sec (4 inversion) continuous and one inversion every min. Requesting your opinion on this.
Sounds like you found a good way to develop your films. Write down what you did so you can repeat it and you'll have yourself your own personal version of Barry Thornton's developer.
@@PictorialPlanet I would suggest you to give it a try and make a video on this accidental recipe with your wise technical comments.
You are so spot on, those 3 are what I've tried to make same way every time, including how roughly I do agitation and how many turns I do. Trying out every combination of agitation is impossible so it needs some limiting. I've had repeatable density differences below 0.05 with keeping parameters same. Part of that is due to aging developer and needs adjusting over time. In practice that means every standard contrast image exposed right prints on grade 2. I love that when I try FX55 I have a baseline and may not need to test every parameter myself (although my agitation may differ from yours)
Thanks for your comment. We are on the same page.