How to Remove and Install the iBR on a 4-TEC Sea-Doo (on a GTR 215)
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- čas přidán 13. 09. 2024
- This complete instructional video shows how to remove and replace the iBR gate assembly on a Sea-Doo. Performed on a 2012 Sea-Doo GTR 215, it also includes replacement of the 4 friction sleeves (required at 100 hr interval).
Online Shop: 3ftdeepsports.c...
3ftDeep Branded Merchandise: teespring.com/...
Parts required:
2 x 250 000 506 M8x70 screws
2 x 250 000 595 M8x20 screws
1 x 207 284 560 M8x45 screws
4 x 268 000 045 friction sleeves (100 hr service)
4 x 205 561 660 M6x16 screws (100 hr service)
Suggested Torque Wrenches:
Light Duty www.amazon.com/...
Medium Duty www.amazon.com/...
Filmed in the great Pacific Northwest with a GoPro Hero 3+ Black Edition camera.
Music: Get Back Up, by Silent Partner.
What a great video. I bought (2) 2013 GTR-215's and have been waiting for someone to show me the "How's" on taking care of them myself in order to save money. I can't thank you enough for the great video. Very clear and perfect guidance.
Geo Sto Glad to help out! Thanks for your comment.
I really like your videos, a few months ago I bought the same jetski you have (GTR-215) and I literally watched all your videos about it and learned a lot, thank you very much for your work.
Thank you for the kind words, Gustavo! Safe riding!
I struggled with the farthest one back on the right side. I realized it's due to the length of the pivot bushing and the bushing MUST be removed with the bolt to get the bolt out. YMMV
And thanks (!) for the video, your's are some of the clearest available and have saved me a few times. I appreciate it.
Hey, you’re welcome. And thanks for the kind words.
Nice video well done, appreciate the effort, the fact you have listed the part numbers for the job is fantastic..! I have just bought a 2014 GTR and will be doing a lot of the servicing myself due to the costs from being in a remote location. Cheers.
Thanks heaps, saved me trip to dealers!
Very useful video!
For me, I absolutely could not find enough space to fit my ratchet and loosen the bolts to be able to remove the ratchet tool & bolts (2014 rxt 260). Not sure if my Venturi is wider than the model in the video..but the only way I could make it work was to remove the 4 venturi screws holding the Venturi (as per winterizing video) so it was loose, and I could slide it side to side to get the iBR bolts loose. I did this by lowering the iBR gate to the lowest position to get to the top two screws (with ratchet extension), then raising to the top to get to the bottom two screws.
Hope this helps someone.
The comments about the bushings coming with the bolts were very helpful. I would have never figured that out. For those that don't know, like me, the bushings are like metal sleeves that the bolts fit into. Mine were tight, I had to use needle nose pliers to pull them out.
Question- the black paint on parts of the iBR & the Venturi is peeling off, the metal underneath looks a bit rough. Is this just cosmetic or should I change these out? I guess due to corrosion, back end sitting in water?
Thanks for the video!
Thanks for the kind words. When the paint or powder coating starts to come off, just make sure there's a bit of oil on them when not in use to make sure they don't rust as quickly. Salt water is especially hard on these parts. Good luck.
@@3ftDeepChannel Thanks, I'll do that. I suppose I could spray paint over it too?
I’ve never hear of anyone doing that, so I’m not sure if it’ll work. If you’re in salt water, it probably won’t stick for long. But in fresh water, it may stick for a while. Keep us posted and good luck.
Great Video help a lot You do a great job as well showing everything.
Thanks for all your videos, they are so helpful.
After replacing the friction sleeves the left upper sleeve is JUST catching the iBR enough to prevent it from coming down fully into reverse. It there any adjustment I can make to the iBR to fix this? The old friction sleeve is worn down by a couple mm in the spot where it’s catching.
That sounds very strange. I doubt that new friction sleeves would cause this issue. I would instead ensure that you’ve installed it properly.
It is Amazing what this Guy can do !!!!!!!!!!!
Hey! Amazing Videos. I have a question: A friend of mine has a 2016 GTX 300 Limited (Gen 2 IBR I think?!). He wanted to clean the rear pump assembly and lowered the IBR using Override while on the trailer. He forgot to take of the license-plate bar, so when lowering, without noticing, the IBR was pushing down on that solid metal bar for around 5 seconds. After realizing, he checked for damage (nothing visible) and functionality (movement in IBR-Override seems fine/unchanged). Best take it to a dealer to check nothing in the IBR assembly cracked because of this, or will it be safe to assume its fine (does it have a pressure sensor that made it stop or would a fuse blow before any part gets truely damaged? Owners-Manual says the IBR WILL get damaged if blocked in IBR-Override...)
Thanks in advance!
Thanks for the kind words! I don’t believe it has a built in sensor, but if it’s working perfectly, I wouldn’t worry about it. The fuse wouldn’t necessarily blow before any damage occurs. Make sure you test it thoroughly (it sounds like you already have) and also that the brake works properly. Good luck.
Thanks for you nice work, is very simple and easy to follow to do.
This removal, works the same for the New 2018 RXT-X 300 Sea Doo
Thanks for the tip.
Appreciate that... just had the fault code C2146 happen on mine 300... Have tools, will play...
Great Video, thanks. Can you estimate how long does this take for the average mechanic? Is this a preventative maintenance or was there a problem that you were trying to solve?
John Nall Unfortunately, you've got to remove the iBR to access the pump, which is something you should do every year (i.e. check the pump for water leakage). The friction sleeves need to be replaced periodically. The entire process (removal and installation) including friction sleeve replacement shouldn't take more than one hour. Thanks for your comment.
Thanks for the video. I am picking up a 2013 GTR and a 2013 GTI SE this week. Did you install a bilge pump on yours? I plan on doing this ASAP to both of my skis.
Peter Scaduto Not yet. I only had one disaster where I wished I had a bilge pump, and it was on a 9 year old machine. I figure I'll install one when the GTR is 5 years old (i.e. 2017), or when I get bored. Thanks for your comment.
Hello, Love your video I just installed a brand new IBR unit on my 2012 GTI SE 130. does it need to be programmed? Do I need to take it to the dealer? Please help thanks
It is supposed to be programmed, but we find that they don’t always need to. Not perfect, but you can probably get away without it. If you have any issues, you will need to get it calibrated at the dealer. Good luck.
@@3ftDeepChannel I think the old part number is has programming in the ibr module specific for the skis, but they have since moved to a universal part with a different part number that must be programmed to specific skis.
Could be. I guess you could order one and try it out and if it doesn’t work bring it into the dealer and pay them to calibrate it.
I did. I ordered the part 278003040, installed it, and had to go to the dealer to program it to the ski. Man that was an expensive repair
Just replaced the wear ring on 2016 300 limited its a little different to get into ibr override you hold down ibr handle and press start then press set and use the vts to control
Thanks for the tip, David. We almost need to make a how-to video for each model out there.
Mario Kasapi yea it was a learning experience
Great video. I wish you would have gone a little bit further and shown how to service the jetpump.
We show that in another video. Feel free to browse through our channel.
Mario, if possible can you tell us what thread locker/ sealant you used in this video?
This is a point of contention. The service manual requires that NEW screws with pre-coated thread locker be used (where indicated). I don't know why, but that's what they say. Where regular thread locker is used (on old screws), it suggests Loctite 243 (blue). Good luck.
3ftDeep - yes but let’s say hypothetically speaking I ran out of 243 and had some of that yellow stuff laying around. What would it be called? Lol... You see I bought my Ski used. It’s a 2010 wake pro. The jet for these models get bolted onto the heat plate instead of the stern hull. There are many blogs on how you should not use 243 as the heat on the plate will liquify it and the screws come loose. As a result the ski will pull violently to one side. I just took it apart to replace the wear ring for the first time and all screws had this yellow stuff on them. I want to put the same back but haven’t been able to find what it is. In any case, your videos are amazing. Keep up the great work. Vtavaresmail@gmail.com
@@victortavares8686 Loctite 272?
Am I the only one watching this video and seeing him working on that in the house on the nice carpet thinking my GF would have my private parts on a chopping block!
Funny you mention that. I'm wearing a very nice shirt (at work) that still has black liquid engine gasket stains at the bottom! Yep, I get in trouble from time to time. You should see my dress shoes :(
If IBR is worn out ,can u just remove it ,dealer said 1600 to replace. Of course u wont hav rev,or n,???
I wouldn't ride without it.
I have two identical Sea-Doo PWCs that are just now over one year old, and 40 hours on them. One of them makes a squeak whenever going into or out of neutral. From your video I didn't see anywhere to grease anything, so do you think the squeak could be a bushing that needs replaced? Or is it more likely the actuator? Ever had one squeak? Thanks for your videos!
Yes, I have a sqeak too. I haven't looked into it, but I assume it's the actuator. It started within the first month, so I haven't been too worried about it. If you're concerned, just run it out of water and while someone else is controlling it, listen with the seat off to try to figure out where it's coming from, but the actuator is a pain in the neck to access. Good luck!
@@3ftDeepChannel Thank you! I will do so. I guess if it is the actuator, and it's still working, may as well leave it alone until it eventually fails. I'll look to see if you have a video showing replacement of the actuator, but if you don't, that would be a good one! :-)
2017 RXT 260 w/ 57 hours. I think iBR just crapped out. It’s stuck all the way down. Override mode doesn’t work, with no noises coming from the iBR motor at all (like it’s not even trying.) However, finally back on the trailer after being stranded, I did get the iBR overrode to make the iBR motor make a faint whining noise and the gauge on the dash says it’s moving up and down but it isn’t. No loose bolts, no bad fuses, no obstructions, it appears as though the iBR actuator is bad. I bought the ski 14 months ago so now I am out of warranty and refuse to spend that kind of money on a faulty iBR. I’m looking for suggestions; I read that disassembling and cleaning the iBR has worked but I fear that may only be a temp solution and it’ll happen again? Thoughts? Maybe anyone know of a used one or an affordable new one? Do you think BRP will possibly help even though I am out of warranty?
PS I also read about an iBR recall and software updates? Even though I am nearly 100% sure this is hardware issue.
PPS: throwing codes C2102, and now C2101.
@3ftdeep
I wouldn't do anything yet. Chris and I both had similar problems with the iBR and after a number of starts and stops it mysteriously started working again. Mine usually started up after an hour or two, but Chris' took 3 or 4 days. Neither of us have had problem in the last year or so. I know it sucks, but I'd give it some time before tearing into it. Good luck.
I guess you gotta do this to replace the carbon seal , right? so you could remove the pump and stuff. i got the same ski 2013 27 hrs and is leaking in water. weird to me for the hours it has.
Yes, and yes. I would confirm that it really needs replacing, as it's a bit of a hassle. You'll also need a removal/spreader tool, which is quite pricey, and you'll also need to remove all the oil so it doesn't come out when you remove the drive shaft from the engine block. Good luck.
The screw that’s in the right side U-arm pivot point is too big and will not come out the way you’ve shown. It’s pressed up against the impeller. Is there an easier way to get it out?
It can be taken out as shown. It’s easier if you take the metal cylindrical sleeve out first. Good luck.
Is it a bad idea to reuse the existing bolts? I'm thinking about putting some loctite 243 on them and putting them back in.
To get new bolts, it seems I'd have to order from a few different online shops and pay shipping for each.
We have differing opinions as to why the Service Manual says to use NEW bolts on certain ones, but I never stray from the manual. Chris does, however, and has never had a problem (so far). But Sea-Doo only says to use NEW bolts with a handful of them out of hundreds used throughout the boat, so there must be a good reason. Good luck.
@@3ftDeepChannel Thanks so much for the reply! Really appreciate your input on this.
How important is it to discard/replace the screws? Are they standard screws that can be picked up at an Ace Hardware?
Thanks...your videos are awesome. Any chance of getting a video on how to adjust steering on these...mine pulls to the right and the maintenance manual is so unclear.
Very good question. The service manual says to replace the screws -not all of them, just a few of them. I'm not sure why, but I don't feel it's worth questioning ...if the engineers who designed it said to do it, then I spend a few extra bucks and replace them. No, you can't get them from a hardware store, as they have special yellow "loctite" already painted on the threads. For some reason, they don't want us to use liquid loctite on those screws. We may do a steering adjustment video later this year or early in the new year. Thanks for your comment.
Thanks for the quick response. Do you have all of these available. I'm having a hard time finding them. Only ones I saw on your website are the 3 impeller cover screws (205 562 560). Still can't find these at my dealer:
2 x 250 000 506 M8x70 screws
2 x 250 000 595 M8x20 screws
1 x 207 284 560 M8x45 screws
Also, not sure if it will help too much, but I lengthened steering cable after removing the IBR Gate by turning it clockwise 5 times. Still has plenty of thread. Hopefully this will help.
Unfortunately, we can only offer parts that are available on Amazon. My dealer didn't have the screws, either, so I bought them online directly from Sea-Doo at the following website: parts.sea-doo.com/Index.aspx?s1=49f42rpialijl3j6a65d4jdne4&catalog_id=1&language_id=1&siteid=1. Hopefully your adjustment will fix your problem. Good luck.
My torque wrench stops at 17 foot pounds. I noticed some bolts need to be tightened at 18 ft pounds. Can I just continue to tighten a little more after my wrench clicks? how crucial is the exact torque?
Do not continue to tighten after it clicks. Unfortunately, you really need to get another torque wrench that handles higher torques. It will come in handy, as there are lots of bolts that require more than 17 foot pounds. Good luck.
What are the laminated papers that you keep rubber banded to the divider?
Those are the vehicle license and registration papers. I forgot I used to do that! Now I keep them in a dry bag in the glove compartment.
Are you able to make a video on how to align the steering? Mine veers right. I've been told to adjust it at the front but can't find how. Can't figure out how to dismantle the front to gain access. Would be appreciated.
+Little Adventures In Life That's a great idea. We normally make videos from repairs that we need to do to our machines, but next time we're working on them we'll try to remember to make one on that. In the meantime, the easiest way to do it is to unscrew the screw connecting the steering cable to the nozzle, set your steering absolutely straight, adjust nozzle until it's absolutely straight, and then turn the hex nut on the steering cable until the ball joint lines up with the connection at the nozzle. Then screw it back on. There's only so much adjustment you can do with that nut, so if you need more there may be a bigger issue with your steering assembly. Good luck!
Ok. Thanks for your advice. Will give it a go.
3ftDeep Thanks for your advice. That worked.
So what button was pushed to turn the over ride from off to on.
You should be able to see the process in the video starting at 4:29.
Any ideas what to do when removing and one of those bushings is fused in place? Didn't think it was a good idea to use heat on it? Have sprayed plenty of WD-40, and tried inserting a piece of coat hanger wire to pull it out, but no luck...
Nevermind, got it out with perseverance and undoing a few more bolts on the trim side
Good man!
Once I took the trim motor off, I could remove the whole unit. Need a new bushing though. this one is no good :D
Hello, please I need anyone feedback… I have a 2010 gtx 155 with iBR faults codes. Is kind of intermittent. Fist time that faults came ibr was not in use, I was running and the alarm comes up. Hopefully the ski was on F and the bucket was opened. Second time the same. Third time the ski was on N and the bucket wasp closed. 3 times the module was revised. Any clues?
We have both had problems with the iBR malfunctioning in the same way you describe. In all cases the problem mysteriously resolved itself and we haven’t had any issues in quite some time (a couple of years, at least). We could never figure out the problem, and the dealers were replacing the iBR actuators for others with this problem and that fixed it. As this was a very odd problem, you may want to call your dealer and ask if they have any “magical” fixes for this issue. If they don’t, I’m sure they’ll suggest replacing your actuator. Good luck.
There is a way to disable the iBR via re-flash?
Hmm, not sure. I assume you mean temporarily. You can’t reverse without the iBR. Before you do anything radical, try disconnecting the battery overnight, and then reconnect it. Good luck.
I want to remove ibr physically, I have a question, how can I remove ibr from system (digitally) ?
I’m not sure that you can remove it digitally. You can override the iBR and get manual control of it, but it’s an integral part of the machine (brake, reverse) that really shouldn’t be removed.
Hello,
is it possible to have the screw forces in Nm or Kg?
Thanks
We just give out one type of unit to avoid clutter. There are lots of conversion tools out there on the internet such as: www.onlineconversion.com/torque.htm
what's an lbf.in ?
inch pounds
How were you able to remove the U-arm bolt in the back right. My bolt is a long bolt and has no clearance 2013 gti se by the way
The order of bolt removal is critical. Did you follow the same order that we did?
Was able to remove IBR. The bushing had to come out with the bolt. Thanks for the video and the help!
Great! Thanks for the update.
thanks awesome
Would this be the same procedure on a 2011 gti 130?
I think so, but not sure. Call up your dealer and ask if it's the same "generation" iBR as the 2012 GTR 215. Good luck.
How do you get into the ibr override function what buttons or sequence do you need to do hard to see in video
Sorry about that. This is straight out of my user's manual for my GTR 215 ...
Activating iBR Override Function
To activate the iBR override function, carry out the following step.
1. Power up the electrical system by pressing the START/STOP button.
2. Install the tether cord on the engine cut-off switch.
NOTE: The tether cord must be installed to ensure the information center will not shut off all indications after its self test function. Electrical power will stay on for approximately 3 minutes.
3. Press the Mode button on the RH handlebar repeatedly until SETTINGS is visible in the digital display of the information center.
MESSAGE DISPLAYED: "SETTINGS"
4. Press the SET button (RH handlebar) to display IBR OVR.
SPECIAL PROCEDURES
AVAILABLEMODE FUNCTION: "IBR-OVR MODE message"
5. Press the SET button to enter IBR OVR function and display OVR OFF.
MESSAGE DISPLAYED: "OVR OFF"
6. Press the UP/DOWN button (RH handlebar) to display OVR ON.
MESSAGE DISPLAYED: "OVR ON"
7. Press the SET button to select the OVR ON function. The gauge will return to its normal display.
8. Press the VTSUP/DOWN arrow button to move the iBR gate to the desired position.
Models Without a VTS UP/DOWN Button
NOTE: On models without the VTS UP/DOWN button, use the UP/DOWN button on the RH handlebar to move the iBR to the desired position once the iBR override function has been activated as described in the previous steps.
All Models
9. Remove the tether cord from the engine cut-off switch.
thank you
Thanks for the video. Question, what are you applying to the screws/bolts before re-installing? Does not look like typical blue loctite...I have seen comments about synthetic grease? I have since researched on teh google and there appears to be a yellow loctite for marine use #577...is this what you use? thanks!!
We almost always apply blue Loctite to the screws, as per the service manual instructions. Sometimes, new screws come with yellow Loctite already applied. Never use grease on screws, as that will have the exact opposite of the desired effect! Good luck.
@@3ftDeepChannel this is interesting, when I removed my ibr on 2021 seadoo gtx 300 (for solas impeller) the screws with bushings appeared to have never/no seize on them? It was a grey metallic material on treads? Ever see this before?
Never. That would be a 180° reversal of their previous strategy of using Loctite or nothing at all for the iBR screws. I suggest getting hold of a service manual for your machine and confirming which product is needed. Good luck.
@@3ftDeepChannel thxs for responding. Alot of these channels never respond to questions
Hey, no problem. We’re small enough that we can make the time to respond to every comment. If we were much bigger, I can see how it could be a challenge. Thanks for your comment.
Hi, i just removed and replaced my ibr system and now have a "dashed line" indicator on the display. I did not lower the gate back down before starting when finished, could that be the problem?
Is the gate actuating? Check and make sure it's hooked up properly and then disconnect the battery and reconnect it. That may help. Let me know and good luck.
@@3ftDeepChannel thanks for helping. The main problem I have is the ski wont start. The ibr is working fine in override. When I crank the motor it fires then stops immediately and I can hear starter or ring spinning? Could I have not fitted drive shaft correctly? I made sure the notch wasn't visible outside pto seal but where the shaft goes "bigger" in diameter is visible? Please help lol
It's possible. Did you remove the pump and/or driveshaft, too? If so, why did you remove them if just replacing the iBR? Removing the iBR by itself shouldn't affect the propulsion system.
@@3ftDeepChannel yes I was replacing the pto seal. However I got it sorted today, turned out that the spark plugs that where less than a month old were shot. Put new ones in and it started straight up. Turns out ibr is all working fine. Thank you for the help, much appreciated 🙏 👍
Great stuff! That would have been tough to troubleshoot given the work that you'd done! Take care.
Why does the drive shaft want to come out when I try and pull the pump
There's always a bit of forwards and backwards movement on the drive shaft as it essentially "floats" between the engine and the pump. It's essential to put Triple Guard Grease on the splines of the driveshaft on the pump end to ensure the pump separates from the driveshaft as easily as possible when removal is necessary. Good luck.
So... once the pump bolts are undone.. it should pull out
I need your help please, the screen on my rxp had a crack and now i can't control the ibr from the settings, because the digital gauges are ruined from moisture. Is there any other way to keep the ibr up without using the ibr function? Thanks
We don’t advise it, but if you disconnect the IBR actuator from the IBR (one bolt) and tie it in the up position, that will allow you to ride it again. But I would get your problem fixed as soon as possible. Good luck.
@@3ftDeepChannel okay thank you, i will order a new gauge speedometer soon, costs like 700$ can't believe it got cracked after 100 hours its an rxp 260.
That’s terrible. How did it get cracked?
@@3ftDeepChannel no idea, was riding last summer and noticed the digital gauges starting to dim, so i removed the gauge cluster and noticed a crack from the inside where the clear plastic cover sticks to the module. I leave the jetski parked at the marina the whole summer, but covered. I'm thinking it's from the heat? I really don't know, now i can't even put the ski in sport mode or do anything.
Wow, I've never heard of that before. As it could also be your Electronic Box/Module and the crack in the gauge could just be a coincidence, you may want to take it to your dealer to confirm that it's the actual problem. Good luck.
Hey you told me to get back with you on my IBR issue. Mine was the one that threw a code while riding but worked fine in the driveway. Took it out today and IBR stuck in reverse. Ibr light came on. Ibr override doesn't work either. I hear no attempt at the motor to move the gate. Ski has 100 hrs on it. Any help would be appreciated. Can't remove the gate either because the access hole doesn't line up with the bolt head.
Chris had the same thing happen, and then it mysteriously resolved itself after a few days. I'd disconnect the battery for a few hours, reconnect it and start it up again for a minute or so (on the hose). Keep doing that for 3 or 4 days and see what happens. If it doesn't "resolve itself" after then, you'll probably need to get it checked out at the dealer. Keep us posted ...and good luck.
@@3ftDeepChannel thank you sir. I'll keep your posted.
Hello Nathan, Any further update on this? We're curious.
@@3ftDeepChannel Its now at an authorized Seadoo dealer. Hoping their BUD system will explain it. I believe the IBR actuator is locked up. I will update in a week or so once they can troubleshoot it.
Thanks for the update. Usually the onboard computer system will say "iBR actuator not responding", so they'll likely want to replace it. Hopefully it's on warranty, or they'll find another, less expensive cause.
Does newly installed IBR actuator have to be flashed at the dealership to work?
I haven’t heard that it needs to be flashed, but it likely needs to be taken through a calibration sequence. I haven’t done that as we don’t have the electronic equipment, and it works fine. You may want to chat with your dealer to see what they would do before attempting it yourself. Good luck.
How do you this if you have no overide option like on gti 130 2013
Check your owner's manual. It'll tell you how to override the iBR on your specific machine.
@@3ftDeepChannel thanks for the reply but after many trials and errors I managed to get the override on.
One quick question however for the work I need to do I need to remove the intake grate do you know the torque specs of the bolts once I reinstall
Hello Remy, The torque for my 2012 GTR 215 (that also has the GTI hull) says 18 lbf.ft (note, FOOT POUNDS) for all 4 screws. I can't guarantee that's the same for your machine, but that's what I'd go by. It doesn't recommend any thread locker. Also, be very, very careful when torquing screws into the hull as the metal inserts will often come loose even before reaching the stated torque. I often under-torque a bit in older machines. Good luck.
@@3ftDeepChannel thanks man
Your awesome and your video are on point.
On my GTI 15 I dont have a VTS button, how to I remove the IBR there?
What year is your machine?
@@3ftDeepChannel Seadoo GTI 130, 2015 year.
Your owner's manual will state how you can use the iBR override to lift the gate. I just did it on a 2017 SE 130, so I know it's not hard to do. If I recall, I used the arrows on the right side of the handlebar, instead of the left side as I did with the RXP-X. Good luck.
Hi Guys! Hopefully someone here can answer my question or help me with my problem.
In neutral, my brand new GTX300 going backwards... it is possible to adjust that because my dealer (Amsterdam) does not recognize the problem...
Yes, you can adjust the neutral. While you're in the water in neutral, just click the arrows on the right hand side of the handlebars up or down. That should make the adjustment. Good luck.
Wouw great, so easy, I Will try it asap, many thanks !!
Hi there. I think I have stripped the pivot point screw on the left hand side of the iBr gate (Which you remove at 1:24 ). Read in this post www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=241075 that the brass nut have lost its grip to the plastic holder. How can I fix this? Would like to remove the iBr in order to check if everything is okay, and to mount some zincanodes somewhere inside there. Going on a vacation where my Seadoo GTX Limited 260 iS 2010 will be in the water for three weeks.
If you've stripped the screw, that can simply be replaced. If you've stripped the insert in the hull, or the insert is spinning in the hull (i.e. it's come loose), that's a bigger problem. I've used JB Weld in the past for those types of situations, but essentially if the problem is not the screw, you'll need to get creative. If you can't actually get the screw out, I'd try taking all the other screws off and when the iBR is loose, then try removing the screw with the insert. Good luck.
Thanks, will have a look and see what I manage to do. Also, I haven't got new replacement screws so my question is whether I should put some liquid locktite on the two retaining screws at 3:40 or not. By the way, great videoes. I'm a huge fan of your channel.
Thanks for the kind words. The manual says to replace the screws and I do, but I know some of the mechanics at the dealerships don't. I can't recommend you to use the Loctite, but I can say that some people do use it instead of replacing the screws.
Lmfao, that's the hardest way to remove it. I've never seen anyone do that before.
We’d love to see the easier way. Our method is straight out of the service manual. Please provide a link to a video with the easier method, if available.
Ohhh the sweet ibr what a over engineered piece. another of seadoos great overthought over engineered ideas. Kinda like the suspension model and how about the piece of plastic crap Spark change the spark plugs on one of them... I dont own a pwc dont ride a pwc but man do I fix a lot of pwcs... I never ever do many repairs on Yamaha and The now no longer made Hondas were bullet proof but Bombardier sure makes me a good living. Just wait until you have to replace that 1200.00 module and calibrate it or your battery gets week and it will not shift out of reverse and sets code. One good thing I can say is seadoo sure knows how to build a Hull man they ride and handle very well