Other than a house settling there is a better way to adjust the door from hitting when you close it. Most of the time it's because the hinges are worn. www.askmediy.com
I was actually looking around the house this morning and found a door that I have this problem with. I couldn't figure out how to fix it. Thank you so much for this and the rest of your videos. They help a lot.
I used the T25 star headed screws about 1 1/2" long and it does the trick all the time. I've also had problems lining up to hinge halves to put the pin in so I just removed the half hinge from the jamb side, put the hinges together and slipped in the pin. Then, I got some long paint sticks from the hardware store, slide them under the door to elevate slightly and re-attach the hinge to the jamb. So far, it has worked.
Thank you!!!! I have lived with a door that hits the door jam for over two years now. Drove me nuts. I was ready to saw it down but lucky for me all i needs was to screw the damn hinge. Lol. Took me all of thirty seconds to fix. Thank you for the video. ❤
I watched a guy that was also correct about hinges not be identical…. Factory in a box had different gaps Also a slight bend of hinges that belong to the door works great , pulling the door into the jam ….. be careful to do it correct or you will make it worse
thank you, it fixed my door. Too tight to close. I was thinking of replacing the hinges, but I cleaned it first with WD-40. Then screwed it with 2.5 inches screw. It worked.
This could be the answer to my present home project. And the advice about longer screws is duly noted, my friend. Thanks a million! ~Best Wishes, Terry
Wanted to share a tip if you are trying to screw into an existing hole and it won't catch, drill out the hole, glob some wood clue in there and stick a dowel into the hole and cut it flush with the frame. Let it dry then screw into the dowel. And yes the pre-hung doors you get from jeld-wen and masonite have the cheap ass hinges on them with short screws. Those are usually the first thing that will go bad when you buy a pre-hung door like that.
Another tip of the day is before you replace the hinges is try drawing the jam into the jack and king stud with a longer screw. 9 times out of 10 that will correct the reveal/rubbing problem. If there are shims between the hinge and the jack you may have to remove the trim/casing and shims, suck the door in with a longer screw. Once you've achieved your desired reveal and door doesn't rub anymore install new shim behind hinge, replace trim, and you should be good to go.
I had similar problem installed new frame & door with new hinges, the opening edge was rubbing bit from top to bottom, I had pulled out the pins on the hinges removed the hinge off the door the 2 knuckle side placed in vice almost down to the knuckles then used cresent wrench bending each knuckle very slightly away from the side of where screws go in on hinge in other words the bending would go towards the opening edge of the door which I did this on both hinges of the door reinstalled hinges on door with pins it pulled door away from opening edge 1/16" inch door no more rubbing everything lined up perfectly, I had to do this twice 1st time pulled door too much to hinge side had too much gap that caused rubbing on jamb & door so had to lightly bend back knuckles back the other way, videos I seen out here show guys bending hinges on the door I dont recommend being can pull screws lose in door stripping out the threads, removing hinges bending them in vice best way to go..
What about a door shim? You can use a thick amount of paper and use the corner of an envelope as the sleeve for all the paper. Cut with a razor blade to correct size. Drill screws through the paper shim securing it. Easy mode, free, and puts good use to your junk mail. ;)
Your videos are really great. A trick I have not seen you use that could be helpful is when the hinge screws or door catch screws get too lose to get a screw in. I use toothpicks and wood glue to fill the old hole, let the glue dry a bit then cut the toothpicks flush. Now a new screw will go in and tighten securely...like new. Time to watch some more of your videos :)
I took out the existing screws, which were loose, stuck chopsticks, you can use toothpicks, into the screw holes, and reinserted the old screws and saw them really pull and tighten. A nice fit now.
If the screws are not loose I use a 4lb sledge and a 2' scrape piece of 2x4 to adjust jamb. The places I work at have crazy unstable foundations. Sometimes my customers cannot even open their doors and the fire department cuts through the front door because its wedged shut.
What it means is that you plug the stripped out hole -- not in the hinge itself, but in the wood door casing. I usually use a dowel of appropriate size. I drill out the hole so that it will barely fit the dowel, squirt some wood glue into the hole and onto the dowel, drive the dowel into the hole, wipe off excess glue, and cut off the dowel flush if is is sticking out. Once the glue dries, you can drill a small tap hole, and the hinge screw will hold just like new. Instead of the dowel, you can also just coat with glue as many toothpicks as necessary to fill the hole, and shove those in, as No Retreat suggested above.
Finally… A video that is extremely well done and very informative, and the guy actually knows what he's talking about and did solve my problem. Thank you Dominic for a very well done video.
I’m going to have to try this. I live in an apartment and I have a back door that it seems that, with the building settling occasionally, the door goes anywhere from having enough space on the bottom for people to actually see into my apartment, while coming up the back stairs OR, the edge of the door is actually resting on the floor, misaligning it with the latch and it won’t latch properly. Despite having sensors and a Ring Doorbell on the door, it’s still a security issue. This is particularly so since these are pandemic times and I’m a Prepper who doesn’t want a break in. I’d like to install a NightLock but, it requires 1/2 space so the door can swing open. This is a real PAIN.
askmediy yeah, I’m going to see what I can do. In looking at the space between the door and the jam, all around, it seems that the door was a bit of a tight fit to jam, in the first place. Yet, it still manages to drag on the floor. I’m not surprised as,’it is a heavy door. Not metal. But, heavy. Thanks!
I fixed mine by LOOSENING the lower hinge screws. This is on the lower hinge. No middle hinge. The door was hitting the lower left side opposite of hinge. My lower hinge was carved out too much out of the door so the hinge was sitting too deep in the door. Hope this helps someone!
I was able to add the longer screws to the door jam, but somehow the screws just won't go in the door! It's like I stripped the door?? What should I do?
My problem is the fitting of the hinge correctly so that the door can be closed easily. the first time I installed a hinge the door stopped halfway and didn't close easily. then I cut a recess and it worsened everything. I then filled the recesses and started all over. I got so intimidated by the idea of installing a hinge that initially looked to me like a piece of cake. where should I start learning to install hinges?
Great video! Question: what if you want to use a longer screw as you show in the video, but the frame is inside a concrete block wall (it's an exterior door and frame that is inside a cinder block house)? The longer screw ends up hitting the concrete that is right against the frame of the door.
Use a 3 inch screw, 1/4 drill bit about 6 inches, and the smallest plastic anchor you can find that matches the drill bit. Drill it into that cinderblock
I need you….I’m staying at my Auntie’s house until my TinyHouse is built. The mobile bedroom door is not operational it is leaning against the wall. I need help with hinge placement both the jamb & door also do the hinges go on jamb first? The door is 80x28 the jamb is 81.5x28.25. Plsssss Helpppp By the way YOU ROCK
Thanks for the video. My house has a lot of leveling problems. I'd like to see a fix when the frame of the door is skewed. My doors hit about a quarter of an inch in the corners.
What size and length screw would you personally recommend? I’ve been a huge fan and subscriber for a longtime now, and could use the help. Thanks. Another great, well explained video.
@@Askmediy Thank you so much Dominic. I apologize for the delay in that, but I never received a notification saying that I received anything. I replaced a very old door, with a new MasterCraft door including the bottom sill plate. I didn't replace the outer casing bc of the uniqueness of where and how it was installed. The problem that, I ran into after installing everything is that I have gaps of light coming through a few areas of my door now. I've tried your screw technique and that, didn't seem to do the trick. I even put a whole new 3 piece new weather strip around the casing and that didn't work. Do you have any ideas? Light is coming through upper left, upper right and bottom left. Please and thanks. Please keep videos coming. I'm an above knee amputee who's trying to be the best best DIYer that I can be. You'd be surprised of what I've accomplished with only one leg. I'm running out of help to finish my basement though. Everyone keeps saying to hire it out, but that cost a lot of money and around where I live no one stands by there word or warranties anymore. Also. I want to be able to do as much as I can, because it'll give me such a great feeling knowing that I did a great deal of it and planned it as well. Thank you for your time.
Just bought an old house and it has lots of levelling issues. İt's warped. Right top side of the doors have about quarter of an inch gap. I tried 5" screws to fix the problem but it didn't work for me. What would you recommend me without seeing it?
@@Askmediy l checked all around the door frame with a level it was fine. Then took the door off and checked it with the level to make sure it's not the door either. I'm gonna change the door hinches and check it again to see if it's gonna do any difference if not l will do reset the door frames as you recommend. I will let you know about the improvement. Thank you for your quick response and help. 👍
I have been painting doors and replacing hinges and door knobs. I was able to fix one door that was sagging by adding 2 pennies to the lower frame hinge, 1 penny to the middle hinge and none on the upper hinge as well as using two, 3 inch screws. We have another door that is abutting on the hinge side. what can we do to fix that?
What if my door frame is a metal frame. My top hinge screws are loose and the door has some play. Can i still use a long screw to bolt into the inner door frame which is also metal
My top hinge come loose causing the top of the door to rub and the 1" screws in the hinge free spin. I tried a longer screw 2" and it still free spins in the hinge what could cause this?
There is cap between the door frame and the framing of the wall. So in order to get into the framing you’ll need a longer screw. A 3” should work fine.
cocatfan Anytime you want to pull two boards together (in this case a jamb and framing) a screw having a partially threaded shank tends to work much better. Screws with threads all the way up to the screwhead will quit turning as soon as the screw head contacts the surface of the first board. Sometimes an impact driver will power the screw on to strip out the hole in the first board allowing the screw to spin and continue drawing up the second board. If all you have is a screw threaded all the way up, try drilling a pilot hole in the first board to allow the screw to spin freely.
Try this: In the bottom hinge take the middle screw out (or in a 4-screw hinge, the screws closer to the door stop) & replace it with a 3” or longer screw(s). As you tighten the screw(s) you should be able to actually push frame in. Pushing the frame at the bottom will increase the space at the top of the door. If you still need more adjustment, use John Speers’ method listed above. You can do a combination of both. This combo method is by far easier than taking apart the frame or cutting the door, which is why I do these & only these methods 90% of the time. I work on doors a lot. It’s my favourite thing to do at work.
Luke Friesen could u help me. I installed a door and the top has a huge gap on the right side. I have tried everything to fix it. My email is the same as my username @gmail.com I would even be willing to send u a few bucks if need be. I can send u pics if u email me. Please let me know
I have a garage door thats extremely bad, it contracts in winter and expands in summer from moisture and no hinge adjustment will fix this.. any other ideas?
@@Askmediy nope Just the main access door. It gets very dry and cold in winter and very humid and hot in summer here in Saskatchewan so the hinge adjustment won't work, the problem is very bad. I may have to sand it down a bit
Yeah seems to the norm these days. Yup that’s my house as well. But they are sorry to say for the both of us. A solid door as you know cost way way more. P op
@@Askmediy so it worked for one door. But the other two doors we hammered the old nails holding up the doorframe tighter and then it worked !! Thanks fam
THIS MAN IS STILL REPLYING TO COMMENTS 6 YEARS LATER.......WHAT A LEGEND
You know it, thank you.
Sub'd just for that lol
I just fixed my door in two minutes. It's been sticking for 10 years. Thanks.
always thank you.
Your commentary is always my favorite part. "I didn't record that part, sucks for you." Thanks for the helpful vids.
Yeah, that was pretty funny and cool. (laughing) ~Best To All, Terry #:^)
I was actually looking around the house this morning and found a door that I have this problem with. I couldn't figure out how to fix it. Thank you so much for this and the rest of your videos. They help a lot.
I used the T25 star headed screws about 1 1/2" long and it does the trick all the time. I've also had problems lining up to hinge halves to put the pin in so I just removed the half hinge from the jamb side, put the hinges together and slipped in the pin. Then, I got some long paint sticks from the hardware store, slide them under the door to elevate slightly and re-attach the hinge to the jamb. So far, it has worked.
Thank you!!!! I have lived with a door that hits the door jam for over two years now. Drove me nuts. I was ready to saw it down but lucky for me all i needs was to screw the damn hinge. Lol. Took me all of thirty seconds to fix. Thank you for the video. ❤
Lol “That’s it, you bought the farm”. Thanks buddy I used this to fix mine.
Adding longer screws completely fixed my door, thanks!!!!
Mine too.
I watched a guy that was also correct about hinges not be identical…. Factory in a box had different gaps
Also a slight bend of hinges that belong to the door works great , pulling the door into the jam ….. be careful to do it correct or you will make it worse
Best outro: Anyway, this is how you adjust the door by the hinges and screws, or whatever the hell you want to call it xD
thank you, it fixed my door. Too tight to close. I was thinking of replacing the hinges, but I cleaned it first with WD-40. Then screwed it with 2.5 inches screw. It worked.
Old video, but totally fixed my problem with my door alignment. The long screw trick. Thanks!!!
It's only if I didn't say " Thank you" LOL Awesome glad it helped you.
You saved me hours of frustration. I was leaning towards removing my doors cutting it and repainting. Subscribed!
Awesome always glad to help
This could be the answer to my present home project. And the advice about longer screws is duly noted, my friend. Thanks a million! ~Best Wishes, Terry
Always my pleasure Terry
Wanted to share a tip if you are trying to screw into an existing hole and it won't catch, drill out the hole, glob some wood clue in there and stick a dowel into the hole and cut it flush with the frame. Let it dry then screw into the dowel. And yes the pre-hung doors you get from jeld-wen and masonite have the cheap ass hinges on them with short screws. Those are usually the first thing that will go bad when you buy a pre-hung door like that.
Another tip of the day is before you replace the hinges is try drawing the jam into the jack and king stud with a longer screw. 9 times out of 10 that will correct the reveal/rubbing problem. If there are shims between the hinge and the jack you may have to remove the trim/casing and shims, suck the door in with a longer screw. Once you've achieved your desired reveal and door doesn't rub anymore install new shim behind hinge, replace trim, and you should be good to go.
I put new hinges after painted door. Actually thought the wetness of the paint messed up the door. Two new address did it. THANK YOU.
Always my pleasure.
Your video's are always very informative and very useful.....Thank you for taking the time to make these helpful video's.
I had similar problem installed new frame & door with new hinges, the opening edge was rubbing bit from top to bottom, I had pulled out the pins on the hinges removed the hinge off the door the 2 knuckle side placed in vice almost down to the knuckles then used cresent wrench bending each knuckle very slightly away from the side of where screws go in on hinge in other words the bending would go towards the opening edge of the door which I did this on both hinges of the door reinstalled hinges on door with pins it pulled door away from opening edge 1/16" inch door no more rubbing everything lined up perfectly, I had to do this twice 1st time pulled door too much to hinge side had too much gap that caused rubbing on jamb & door so had to lightly bend back knuckles back the other way, videos I seen out here show guys bending hinges on the door I dont recommend being can pull screws lose in door stripping out the threads, removing hinges bending them in vice best way to go..
A tip, do not use an impact driver for door hinges. You'll strip out the screws.
Sure can.
What about a door shim? You can use a thick amount of paper and use the corner of an envelope as the sleeve for all the paper. Cut with a razor blade to correct size. Drill screws through the paper shim securing it. Easy mode, free, and puts good use to your junk mail. ;)
Your videos are really great. A trick I have not seen you use that could be helpful is when the hinge screws or door catch screws get too lose to get a screw in. I use toothpicks and wood glue to fill the old hole, let the glue dry a bit then cut the toothpicks flush. Now a new screw will go in and tighten securely...like new. Time to watch some more of your videos :)
I took out the existing screws, which were loose, stuck chopsticks, you can use toothpicks, into the screw holes, and reinserted the old screws and saw them really pull and tighten. A nice fit now.
Very cool, thank you
If the screws are not loose I use a 4lb sledge and a 2' scrape piece of 2x4 to adjust jamb. The places I work at have crazy unstable foundations. Sometimes my customers cannot even open their doors and the fire department cuts through the front door because its wedged shut.
If holes are strippes in the hinges, you can bang golf tees into holes, cut off excess. then puy screws back in! You can use glue on tees!
Excellent idea, thanks for posting!
donald kalinich..... I've been in trade for 30+ yrs. and have carried a container of TOOTH PICKS.
I don't even know what this means.
What it means is that you plug the stripped out hole -- not in the hinge itself, but in the wood door casing. I usually use a dowel of appropriate size. I drill out the hole so that it will barely fit the dowel, squirt some wood glue into the hole and onto the dowel, drive the dowel into the hole, wipe off excess glue, and cut off the dowel flush if is is sticking out. Once the glue dries, you can drill a small tap hole, and the hinge screw will hold just like new. Instead of the dowel, you can also just coat with glue as many toothpicks as necessary to fill the hole, and shove those in, as No Retreat suggested above.
No Retreat
RIGHT! a few toothpicks with a little wood glue for good measure takes out the slop in stripped out wood screw holes.
My first time watching your channel, just hearing you talk I'm telling myself you gotta be from my neighborhood in Philly.
Nope, I'm about 3 hours north west in upstate NY
Small tip: when dealing with hinges, add a little lube/grease to the pins so it moves nicely AND doesn't squeak!
l
Hi hihi hi yummy hi yummy by Gogh min
Long screw fixed my problem. Thanks
Finally… A video that is extremely well done and very informative, and the guy actually knows what he's talking about and did solve my problem. Thank you Dominic for a very well done video.
Thank you so much. Glad I was able to help you out.
Thanks for this!! I had painted mine and that's when the problem started. About 3 doors.
Huge! You saved me a massive headache!
Thank you for sharing this information. I will probably use
Always my pleasure. Thank you
I have also done that many times, its a great tip.
Yes it does, just have to be gentle
I’m going to have to try this. I live in an apartment and I have a back door that it seems that, with the building settling occasionally, the door goes anywhere from having enough space on the bottom for people to actually see into my apartment, while coming up the back stairs OR, the edge of the door is actually resting on the floor, misaligning it with the latch and it won’t latch properly. Despite having sensors and a Ring Doorbell on the door, it’s still a security issue. This is particularly so since these are pandemic times and I’m a Prepper who doesn’t want a break in. I’d like to install a NightLock but, it requires 1/2 space so the door can swing open. This is a real PAIN.
Oh boy, yeah that seems like a lot.
askmediy yeah, I’m going to see what I can do. In looking at the space between the door and the jam, all around, it seems that the door was a bit of a tight fit to jam, in the first place. Yet, it still manages to drag on the floor. I’m not surprised as,’it is a heavy door. Not metal. But, heavy. Thanks!
I fixed mine by LOOSENING the lower hinge screws. This is on the lower hinge. No middle hinge. The door was hitting the lower left side opposite of hinge. My lower hinge was carved out too much out of the door so the hinge was sitting too deep in the door. Hope this helps someone!
please next time show your gap with moving the camera side on to the door just to let us know how much gap was there and then you fixed the new gap
Guys like this can save you much heartache doing your own repairs and adjustments!
It worked like a charm. Thanks.
Awesome glad to hear
Thanks for posting this. Content is great. A mic would increase the production quality 100% as sometimes it's hard to understand.
Thank you so much. My bedroom door has been doing this since we first moved and it drives and my mum crazy.
Glad it helped!
Brilliant. Had mine fixed in minutes.
That was very well explained
Thank you!
Thank you !! I've got 1 door I'm going to work on this weekend. I didn't think about a longer wood screw !!
I was able to add the longer screws to the door jam, but somehow the screws just won't go in the door! It's like I stripped the door?? What should I do?
Worked great, thanks 👍👍👍👍👍
Awesome glad I could help out
Great video I fixed mine thanks to you 👍🏻
Awesome glad to hear that
My problem is the fitting of the hinge correctly so that the door can be closed easily. the first time I installed a hinge the door stopped halfway and didn't close easily. then I cut a recess and it worsened everything. I then filled the recesses and started all over. I got so intimidated by the idea of installing a hinge that initially looked to me like a piece of cake. where should I start learning to install hinges?
Very helpful video. Thanks Dominick.
Always my pleasure
And again “I didn’t show you but it’s already done so too bad”. Made me laugh. I hit subscribe.
At time's though, you have to shave the door no matter what...
Great video! Question: what if you want to use a longer screw as you show in the video, but the frame is inside a concrete block wall (it's an exterior door and frame that is inside a cinder block house)? The longer screw ends up hitting the concrete that is right against the frame of the door.
Use a 3 inch screw, 1/4 drill bit about 6 inches, and the smallest plastic anchor you can find that matches the drill bit. Drill it into that cinderblock
Tqsm Sir, it helps me alot 👍🏻🤌🏻
Always welcome
Worked great for me. Thanks!
Thank you very much
Awesome, glad to hear it
My door hit on the side of the hinges when I try closing it. How to fix that?
Thank you sir this answers my question on the French door I have.
rs19761
Thank you, seriously fixing a-door today that has the same issue!
This was helpful, thank you.
Always my pleasure
REally?? Just using a longer screw?
Excellent video thank you for posting.
Thank you very much
Very helpful, works well! Thanks for the video.
Really enjoy your videos...Thanks!!
I need you….I’m staying at my Auntie’s house until my TinyHouse is built. The mobile bedroom door is not operational it is leaning against the wall. I need help with hinge placement both the jamb & door also do the hinges go on jamb first? The door is 80x28 the jamb is 81.5x28.25.
Plsssss Helpppp
By the way YOU ROCK
My door works fine in winter but starts to hit the frame in summer...
Btw … you make a good video for regular guys do handyman work with out paying someone
Thank you so much. I do try
That was very well explained! It really looks like it works. Thank you for your informative video!
Thank you very much
Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you.
Sandheep Gopalakrishnan Awesome, glad I could help out.
Painting doors
Seriously, I thought your name was "Mediy", maybe an Arab name, LOL. Sorry. This is my first video from your channel. Good work!!
😁👍
Thanks for the video. My house has a lot of leveling problems. I'd like to see a fix when the frame of the door is skewed. My doors hit about a quarter of an inch in the corners.
What size and length screw would you personally recommend? I’ve been a huge fan and subscriber for a longtime now, and could use the help. Thanks. Another great, well explained video.
Well thank you. For something like this, as long as you get into the stud you'll find. So like 2 1/2 or 3" is what I use.
@@Askmediy Thank you so much Dominic. I apologize for the delay in that, but I never received a notification saying that I received anything.
I replaced a very old door, with a new MasterCraft door including the bottom sill plate. I didn't replace the outer casing bc of the uniqueness of where and how it was installed. The problem that, I ran into after installing everything is that I have gaps of light coming through a few areas of my door now. I've tried your screw technique and that, didn't seem to do the trick. I even put a whole new 3 piece new weather strip around the casing and that didn't work. Do you have any ideas? Light is coming through upper left, upper right and bottom left. Please and thanks.
Please keep videos coming. I'm an above knee amputee who's trying to be the best best DIYer that I can be. You'd be surprised of what I've accomplished with only one leg. I'm running out of help to finish my basement though. Everyone keeps saying to hire it out, but that cost a lot of money and around where I live no one stands by there word or warranties anymore. Also. I want to be able to do as much as I can, because it'll give me such a great feeling knowing that I did a great deal of it and planned it as well.
Thank you for your time.
@@nrfa6229 Really sounds like the frame/door is really out of alignment. In that case you would either have to replace or simply re-install
I have this exact problem with these exact doors :D Thanks!
Hi when putting hinges on the doors do you always have to cut the door to fit them can you just put the hinge on without cutting into the door ?
Yea you always do for these types of doors
Just bought an old house and it has lots of levelling issues. İt's warped. Right top side of the doors have about quarter of an inch gap. I tried 5" screws to fix the problem but it didn't work for me. What would you recommend me without seeing it?
On something like that I would remove the door frame and reset it, sorry to say.
@@Askmediy l checked all around the door frame with a level it was fine. Then took the door off and checked it with the level to make sure it's not the door either. I'm gonna change the door hinches and check it again to see if it's gonna do any difference if not l will do reset the door frames as you recommend. I will let you know about the improvement. Thank you for your quick response and help. 👍
Great post-very accurate!
Thanks man i just push it and wiggle it and it work thanks man
Anytime
@@Askmediy legend you still replying after 6 years what a legend
You bet, I have videos on here 12 years old that I still reply to. What’s the sense of not replying right.
Thanks a lot... your video helped me a lot..
If the hinges are a rockin’, don’t come a knocking.
I have been painting doors and replacing hinges and door knobs.
I was able to fix one door that was sagging by adding 2 pennies to the lower frame hinge, 1 penny to the middle hinge and none on the upper hinge as well as using two, 3 inch screws.
We have another door that is abutting on the hinge side. what can we do to fix that?
+Janet Eldridge What do you mean exactly ?
Great tips
Thank you very much
Thanks good easy to understand info
What if my door frame is a metal frame. My top hinge screws are loose and the door has some play. Can i still use a long screw to bolt into the inner door frame which is also metal
Yes, if there is wood framing behind it.
I haven’t seen doors with 3 hinges is this a new thing? Would you recommend it?
No not really, heavier doors tend to have 3. But two is also fine.
Thank you brother
No problem
I was looking for this
I hope I get an answer. I need it. Do I use a wood screw or do the threads have to go all the way up? How long of screw should I use?
Yes wood screws. Long enough to go into the framing. About 2 1/2" would be fine.
Thanks.
My top hinge come loose causing the top of the door to rub and the 1" screws in the hinge free spin. I tried a longer screw 2" and it still free spins in the hinge what could cause this?
There is cap between the door frame and the framing of the wall. So in order to get into the framing you’ll need a longer screw. A 3” should work fine.
Do I use a wood screw? A screw that does not have threads all the way to the head?
cocatfan Anytime you want to pull two boards together (in this case a jamb and framing) a screw having a partially threaded shank tends to work much better. Screws with threads all the way up to the screwhead will quit turning as soon as the screw head contacts the surface of the first board. Sometimes an impact driver will power the screw on to strip out the hole in the first board allowing the screw to spin and continue drawing up the second board. If all you have is a screw threaded all the way up, try drilling a pilot hole in the first board to allow the screw to spin freely.
Instead of starting by replacing the hinges why not trying the screw fix at first !
Because he removed the hinges, inspected them, then determined that they were worn out cheap hinges that needed replacing. That's why.
By Xander nicol
Nicely done Mr Vin Diesel.
It worked! Thanks!
Great video!!!!
Thank you!!!
What size screws are you using to replace those smaller ones ?
Those were #8
He didn't say anything about the reveal on the door.
What can you do if the top is rubbing and the hinges aren't loose?
Dustin Kurtz shim the lead edge of the top hinge.
Either shave a bit off or chop a bit more of the hinge out in the frame
Take the casings off and take out some of the shim/ shims behind the top hinge. Its a pain in the ass
Try this:
In the bottom hinge take the middle screw out (or in a 4-screw hinge, the screws closer to the door stop) & replace it with a 3” or longer screw(s). As you tighten the screw(s) you should be able to actually push frame in. Pushing the frame at the bottom will increase the space at the top of the door.
If you still need more adjustment, use John Speers’ method listed above. You can do a combination of both.
This combo method is by far easier than taking apart the frame or cutting the door, which is why I do these & only these methods 90% of the time. I work on doors a lot. It’s my favourite thing to do at work.
Luke Friesen could u help me. I installed a door and the top has a huge gap on the right side. I have tried everything to fix it. My email is the same as my username @gmail.com I would even be willing to send u a few bucks if need be. I can send u pics if u email me. Please let me know
One thing I was going to show you but it's already done so too bad! hahaha made me laugh! Thanks for the video.
Yeah, good one!
Michael King ok
I have a garage door thats extremely bad, it contracts in winter and expands in summer from moisture and no hinge adjustment will fix this.. any other ideas?
Do you mean the big roll up door?
@@Askmediy nope
Just the main access door.
It gets very dry and cold in winter and very humid and hot in summer here in Saskatchewan so the hinge adjustment won't work, the problem is very bad. I may have to sand it down a bit
Nun Ya is it a solid wood door? If so yes shaving it down, or sanding it should do the trick
@@Askmediy yep that'll be the only way. Just ordered a sander haha
Cool tools is always a good thing.
He kept calling them cheap doors...i felt a way especially after i just did my whole house over with those same doors...
Yeah seems to the norm these days. Yup that’s my house as well. But they are sorry to say for the both of us. A solid door as you know cost way way more. P op
Couldn't you just tap the top hinge over towards the other wall
thank you!
Always my pleasure
Anyone else say "yeah" everytime he said what to do lmao
Are you looking for a reply. That’s what Facebook is for
@@Askmediy I'm going to try to fix 2 of my new doors that are hitting the sides today. Just doing a little research. Great video
@@sarabellim4397 thank you. Doesn’t work for every situation, good luck
@@Askmediy so it worked for one door. But the other two doors we hammered the old nails holding up the doorframe tighter and then it worked !! Thanks fam
Always my pleasure
Good tip!