The reason I would have removed the carpet is over time it will detiorate, meaning the stud won't be tight to the floor boards. I would have personally made the wall flush with the RSJ boxing on both sides and then installed pocket doors that would look very sleek. Great video I love your content
My poor wife... You, sir, have inspired me to reconfigure my house! I know my downstairs is just a bunch of stud walls, nothing load bearing, so new layout here we come!
I'm with you on the plastering question - it's always seemed strange to me that we put up perfectly flat boards & then cover them in (if you're lucky) flat plaster - taping/filling & sanding is so much easier and cheaper
there actually isn't a lot of cost difference between plastering and taping and they both take skilled tradesmen to get a decent result. the main reason plaster is more popular is purely down to people not liking the matt finish taping gives paint. that being said more of the bigger site developers are going down the taping route recently because its quicker
That looks to have come out really well :) One thing i learned ages ago, if you want a more sound proofed wall, and I guess it would help with heat transfer too, just use a 2x6 vs a 2x4 for the top and bottom plates and stagger 2x4 verticals and put insulation all around/through it. That way no sound or heat can directly travel via the studs to the other side of the wall. I like the trick of pushing in the brick spacers with the screw, I will have to remember that :)
14:05 If you pre-assemble a wall on the floor, you may not be able to stand it up. The diagonal of a rectangle (through the frame thickness) is longer than the edge (the frame/opening height). Ask me how I know.
Just for other people, in general you should take up the carpet and cut the skirts, it will be for fire and sound transmission reasons. I also don't know if you are really meant to put holes in plasterboard that is meant to be a fire protection for the steel, in a two storey house the whole purpose of it is to give 30mins fire protection. Tiny air gaps can really accelerate a fire, that is the issue.
My husband and I have done this, the only thing we did different was to put in solid pocket doors to save space. French doors are still pretty too and functional. Our preference was the pocket doors.
Really enjoyed this mate. I’m scared of plastering as well. I’ve seen so many videos on Facebook of tradesmen touching a newly plastered wall and it collapses, shattering into a million pieces.
Great video Keith! 💪🏼 love watching your videos just satisfying 😄😁 I’m a fully qualified site joiner and yes when building stud partitions, we do normally knock them up on the floor only if the floor is level! You did it the right way due to the sagging... Well done 👍 Also sometimes doing it in situ you get a much tighter/neater build quality, than knocking them up on the floor and lifting up.
Nice job, I've just put up a wall myself recently and glad to see I hadn't done anything radically different. I just used screws everywhere as I don't have a nailer.
I'm not a plasterer but I have plastered a few walls in my many years on earth and I find the quicker you do it and with the plaster being quite wet the better the result .
@@slow96ss I’m pretty sure Keith said he was looking for a certain acoustic effect - he may want more sound deadening for sound quality in future videos👍🏻
Nice work and well done. We chamfer the edges of the plasterboards with about 45 degrees on the sides which stuck together before filling up with filler respectively before attaching to the wall. So the filler can balance the joints when the plasterboards expands and the filler can join with the material inside the board instead of the paper surface (sorry for my poor english, german native speaker 😊).
Next time you use plaster board, consider using something like the "Bosch D60498 Drywall Dimpler", it'll reduce the chances of driving the scree too deep into the plaster board.
Excellent work Keith. To be honest, not cutting the carpet away from the studding makes for good draught exclusion which in turn keeps the warmth in. Great video chap
Nice job Keith 😁. I did exactly the same type of stud wall across our dining room years ago.. the only problem was.. the random line I decided to place it across the room was where the heating pipes were embedded in the concreat floor... not a good day 😖. Glad you squeezed the old stud detector gag in 😂.... go Dylan 🐱. Thanks for the video Keith, stay safe 😁👍.
You could check the crown of the studs is all the same way, so that the wall doesn’t wobble. Probably doesn’t matter here but worth checking on a longer wall. I would also mark out the top and bottom plate at the same time. Check out Larry Hun for some amazing hammer skills.
Now is the time to get network and power cables in for Ria's and your office areas. That is something you will never regret. At least 3 per office - you can always use a network (LAN) cable for 'phone.
Great example! With respect to skim coating, you could do it regardless of skills (at least in my experience). Especially when you are working on your own home. Just takes patience, raking light and (MANY) more than the three coats a pro would use so she could get on to the next job.
Stud finder (4 in 1) device amzn.to/2H978Jy (UK) Charlie White's DIY channel Charlie Diyte: czcams.com/channels/7x7wk8yeN2ZEJCo6BgP2ag.html Charlie White's fixing to RSJ using normal screws: czcams.com/video/G1ziRy_OJbU/video.html This video is supported by Milwaukee, check out their full range here: uk.milwaukeetool.eu/?Social&CZcams&Rag%20N%20Bone%20Brown%20-Milwaukee%20Range Milwaukee tools used in this video: Inkzall Marker uk.milwaukeetool.eu/en-gb/inkzall-markers/?Social&CZcams&Rag%20N%20Bone%20Brown%20-%20inkzall Framing Nailer uk.milwaukeetool.eu/en-gb/m18-fuel-framing-nailer/m18-ffn/?Social&CZcams&Rag%20N%20Bone%20Brown%20-%20Framing%20Nailer Circular Saw uk.milwaukeetool.eu/en-gb/m18-fuel-55-mm-circular-saw-for-wood-and-plastics/m18-ccs55/?Social&CZcams&Rag%20N%20Bone%20Brown%20-%20ccs55 Jawzilla (coming soon) 12v Drill uk.milwaukeetool.eu/en-gb/m12-fuel-sub-compact-percussion-drill/m12-fpd/?Social&CZcams&Rag%20N%20Bone%20Brown%20-12v%20fpd 12v Impact Driver uk.milwaukeetool.eu/en-gb/m12-fuel-sub-compact-8243;-hex-impact-driver/m12-fid/?Social&CZcams&Rag%20N%20Bone%20Brown%20-12v%20fid SDS uk.milwaukeetool.eu/en-gb/m18-fuel-high-performance-4-mode-sds-plus-hammer-with-fixtec-chuck/m18-chpx/?Social&CZcams&Rag%20N%20Bone%20Brown%20-%20CHPX Jigsaw uk.milwaukeetool.eu/en-gb/m18-fuel-top-handle-jigsaw/m18-fjs/?Social&CZcams&Rag%20N%20Bone%20Brown%20-%20M18%20Jigsaw Spirit Levels uk.milwaukeetool.eu/en-gb/hand-tools/levels/?Social&CZcams&Rag%20N%20Bone%20Brown%20-%20Levels Thanks for watching! Please subscribe, click like if you like, and hit the bell icon for future video notifications HELP SUPPORT THE CHANNEL: Support with CZcams channel membership: czcams.com/channels/VyE_6jEtVZGmYGXtUOL5FQ.htmljoin Support with Patreon: www.patreon.com/ragnbonebrown Support with PayPal paypal.me/ragnbonebrown MY TOOLS: For links to the tools I use, plus some of my favourite consumables, finishes and more see links below. As an Amazon Associate I may earn a small commission from qualifying purchases : UK affiliate store: www.amazon.co.uk/shop/ragnbonebrown US affiliate store: www.amazon.com/shop/ragnbonebrown SHOP: Etsy: www.etsy.com/uk/shop/KeithBrownMaker teespring.com/stores/rag-n-bone-brown-merch
Just curious, wouldn't the same moisture damage happen later if you just put wood by itself in the same place in direct contact with the concrete like the damaged wood you removed? Did you coat it in something or use a plastic barrier to block the moisture before installing the replacement wood?
5:57 Quick? Timber walls are so slooooow. That’s a hours work with metal studs. In the 24+ years I’ve been in the dry lining game I think I’ve built one timber wall. Says it all really. But, I do appreciate this is a woodworking channel 😊
Place floor plate first then use plumb-bob to line up ceiling plate. 4 x 2 studwork when there's doors in it. 2 horizontal noggins per stud running parallel to each other. 12.5 plaster board, again as there is a door frame. Remove the carpet. Run base of stud all the way through and cut off after door studs fitted. Insulation unnecessary. At the moment you are going to get a lot of flexing/wobbling in the wall resulting in the doors not closing properly.
Thanks for the tips. The doors have been fitted a couple of weeks now and no issues, the gaps are as consistent now as they were when installed so I don't think it will be an issue
a tight fit on the studs would be more than enough to keep the wall in place, meaning screwing to the joist was a waste of time. I've held 4x2 in place with just instastik and it's never moved. If the opening for the door isn't perfect, just use some packers, it's how door casings are installed all the time. So much complexity for such a simple project
That's probably true but I'd prefer to secure to the walls, even if only a couple of fixings used. It's funny that as a youtuber I get just as many comments telling me how I've under built things as over built things. Everyone had their own way of doing things and everyone thinks they're right 😂👍
Just a quick observation. When you did the hole to check the RSJ you mentioned there was a 20mm gap between the plasterboard and the steel work, ideally shouldn't have a gap there. When you stuck your finger in the hole did you check if the thickness of the boxing off was 1 or 2 layers of plasterboard? Unless something like 'fireline plasterboard' was used, there should be 2 layers of plasterboard. It's to do with fire regs. If you can imagine a fire in a room, the most severe heat and flames are at ceiling height and corners, and this is the location that with intense heat can cause plasterboard to fail in minutes. This should have been picked up on the survey (depending on the type of survey) you had done when buying the house and proof that it had been signed off by Building Control. Not being picky or anything but hopefully giving some useful advice, but being a Building Surveyor this is the type of thing that insurance companies will look for and could invalidate your insurance.
No idea to be honest but not something I'm worried about. How would a building surveyor be able to identify the construction without drilling a hole in it? We got a full house survey but it was absolutely useless, it highlighted lots of non issues and missed lots of critical issues!
Probably would have used a multi-tool to cut the skirting away or removed the skirting completely and replaced but understand the reasoning behind not doing so. Not sure about assembling on the carpet as that is a surface that will alter. Maybe would have looked at pocket doors but they are more expensive. I don’t think assembling a stud wall on the floor and putting in place would work as you wouldn’t be able to get it to fit snugly, diagonal length greater then the height. Great video as always keep up the good work.
Great video :-) I served 9 years as a 1st & 2nd fix joiner and built many a stud wall over the years. Couple of little tips which you may find easier if you ever build another one with a door way. If you start with the two vertical studs either side of the door way and work back to the walls it saves you having to faff about plumbing & packing out the two verticals against the walls. Oh! and 5:48 You've been letting Dylan do the driving again haven't you lol :-)
Thanks for the tips Iv just started to do odd job for people so iv started a CZcams channel called odd job bill to share my learning journey . Thanks bill
It puzzles me why we use plaster board and then plaster over it in the UK. I thought the purpose of plaster board was to replace the plaster and lathe(?) they used to use. Mind you when my father retired, my mum had him enrolled in the local college on a plasterer's course and got him to re-plaster their house.
Hi Keith , i see you were using your milwaukee impact driver. Didn't you use a hikoki before. If you did and no longer need it would you consider selling it . My one gave up so I have two batteries with no impact drive . I am relying on ordinary combi drill which do not cut the mustard in my trade(windscreen fitting) . Bye .
I've done this recently. I had to split a bedroom into two. Pretty much exactly the same way I did it apart from the insulation which in hindsight would of been better considering two teenagers on either side. But hey ho. Great work Keith. Keep it up.
If you'd have cut the skirting board you wouldn't of needed to cut the stud or the plasterboard , also you could of just screwed the stud to the wall without packing the top out , aslong as you made the next one plumb 👍
I’ve seen people in other videos glue floor boards down as well as nails to prevent squeaking in the future. Do you think that’s overkill? Also great videos. It’s nice to have content from the same country.
I think it'd make them trickier to lift and re fit if access was ever needed beneath if they were glued. As long as the span between joists isn't too big and the boards stretch across a few joists they shouldn't move or squeak, that's my opinion anyway but I'm no expert
Nice work as usual, Keith. Did you consider using Masonry Torx Frame Fixing Screws (Toolstation Product code: 39995) instead of the rawlplug method at 8:47 ? I've found them to be great - especially as all the bricks used in my home are the ones with holes in them, and rawlplugs always seem to find them.
I find it strange we have 47mm X 70mm as is called a 3" X 2", but also a 38mm X 63mm can be called 3" X 2", actually I suppose the 38 X 63mm is actually 2" X 3" as if we've imported the Canadian standard, we need to adopt there nomenclature. Very interesting content, thanks!
@adie chip understand the evolution of timber, what makes no sense is the duplication of standards, or sticking with outdated measurement systems when something demonstrably better in many ways is available (I think the doubling of the denominator for splitting board in half is only positive of imperial I'm aware of).
@adie chip I have seen various studies comparing the two systems and due to the fact that with the decimal system you just move the decimal point, and measurement is more easily accurate, result in much lower levels of waste. With a imperial measurement of ½" divided in two becomes ¼" so you are doubling the bottom part of the fraction to divide in two.
@adie chip they are supposed to be self adjusting, but are just crap, I did turn the black screw on them that the clamp bears on. They have gone now as they were so crappy.
Ria how would you fancy having your office in the garage and I can just move my workshop into this massive space... don’t tell me it didn’t cross your mind 😂 another great job Keith I need to think of a reason to buy a framing nailer 👍👌
@@RagnBoneBrown true, but Inwas thinking more in terms of pulling sideways with the weight of the two glazed doors hung there, or are you just putting hollow cores on there instead?
Great video. One question. Were you not concerned about the damp in the wall above the skirting? It looks like it's not only the floor boards that had moisture in them. Keep up the good work. I love watching your work.
Hi Steven. Not concerned about that, it's old - we had a big mold and condensation problem when we moved in, but since then have installed a PIV system and trickle vents in all the windows for air flow. Hopefully it shouldn't come back!
@@RagnBoneBrown have you done a video about the PIV system? It is something I have considered. Would perhaps make for an interesting/different video. Look forward to the next video on the wall!
Actually a good thing u didn't cut the carpet away is its tensioned between the carpeting strips cutting it around the floor board would have made the carpet bubble up so good thinking to screw right thru the carpetting
Hi mate good job iv built lost of stud walls in my time and i use both way and I think it up to the individual and what u feel comfortable with love the workshop Tour and ur new tools looking good mate if ur ever need any advice feel free to contact me on fb 👍
Nice job. Here in the US many builders will spray "orange peel" texture over the sheetrock/plasterboard. It can hide some imperfections and reduces echo. Special pneumatic spray gun with gravity feed hopper of a gallon or so of the texture paint - heavy.
Personally i prefer to plaster a wall , i just love the look. But at the end of the day its personal choice. Im trying to figure out how im going to justify a framing nailer to my wife.
Hi keith, I subscribed to your patreon but afterwards I realised I could become a paid member of your youtube channel for the same price. What's the difference between the two?
Hi Byron, there's no difference really other than Patreon is a bit of a clunky website in terms of finding things but everything is there, whereas CZcams channel membership has everything apart from the ability to store downloadable plans. If you're interested in any of my plans I'd suggest sticking with Patreon, if not then you can always join CZcams instead if you'd prefer
@@RagnBoneBrown cheers Keith! I think for usability I’ll subscribe to CZcams directly rather than Patreon. I find Patreon clunky and on my tablet it only works in portrait mode! Either way keep up the good work and I’ll support you however I can 👍🏼
Why didn't you put osb sheets behind the plaster boards? That way you would have no problems putting up shelves and picture frames on the wall and get much sturdier walls. That good practice, at least in Scandinavia. Cheers!
The reason I would have removed the carpet is over time it will detiorate, meaning the stud won't be tight to the floor boards. I would have personally made the wall flush with the RSJ boxing on both sides and then installed pocket doors that would look very sleek. Great video I love your content
Excellent stuff, Keith! Now I've got the urge to build a separating wall... but absolutely no need for one.
Cheers Michael!
Me too, Michael😂😂
enjoyed the video very much Keith, very clear and good directions, many thanks
Try using a rasp on the edges of plaster it gives a clean edge
"Manually by hand" cracked me up. Awesome video, very well documented process as always.
Holy cow, the floor...!! I'm surprised nobody ever fell right through!!
I use an old bread knife to cut Rockwool, works a treat.
Tape and filling is pretty common in Scotland paired to skimming when it comes to plasterboard strangely
Ah yes,the classic "High nail leg lift" @10mins.... 8/10,superb execution lol!
Classic! :-)
Goes to build wall, ends up replacing floor. Sounds about right for my renovation experience so far.
My poor wife... You, sir, have inspired me to reconfigure my house! I know my downstairs is just a bunch of stud walls, nothing load bearing, so new layout here we come!
I'm with you on the plastering question - it's always seemed strange to me that we put up perfectly flat boards & then cover them in (if you're lucky) flat plaster - taping/filling & sanding is so much easier and cheaper
there actually isn't a lot of cost difference between plastering and taping and they both take skilled tradesmen to get a decent result. the main reason plaster is more popular is purely down to people not liking the matt finish taping gives paint. that being said more of the bigger site developers are going down the taping route recently because its quicker
@@TheMorsey123 skimming is the best option if you plan to wallpaper. Removing wallpaper from tape and filled walls means re-boarding
Nice job Keith. The chosen method is probably the best especially in an existing and older house. Keep up the good work.
That looks to have come out really well :) One thing i learned ages ago, if you want a more sound proofed wall, and I guess it would help with heat transfer too, just use a 2x6 vs a 2x4 for the top and bottom plates and stagger 2x4 verticals and put insulation all around/through it. That way no sound or heat can directly travel via the studs to the other side of the wall. I like the trick of pushing in the brick spacers with the screw, I will have to remember that :)
14:05 If you pre-assemble a wall on the floor, you may not be able to stand it up. The diagonal of a rectangle (through the frame thickness) is longer than the edge (the frame/opening height). Ask me how I know.
Just for other people, in general you should take up the carpet and cut the skirts, it will be for fire and sound transmission reasons. I also don't know if you are really meant to put holes in plasterboard that is meant to be a fire protection for the steel, in a two storey house the whole purpose of it is to give 30mins fire protection. Tiny air gaps can really accelerate a fire, that is the issue.
🙂 your repair of floor!!! No one will see..Nice wall and tempted to try myself in my new property.
Your house renovation videos are my favorite 💕
My husband and I have done this, the only thing we did different was to put in solid pocket doors to save space. French doors are still pretty too and functional. Our preference was the pocket doors.
Nice start to the wall Keith...good call on the carpet
Nice job on building the wall Keith! Thanks for sharing the video with us!💖👌👍😎JP
Really enjoyed this mate. I’m scared of plastering as well. I’ve seen so many videos on Facebook of tradesmen touching a newly plastered wall and it collapses, shattering into a million pieces.
I know it shouldn’t matter but I could never put that wood on top of carpet. Thanks for the video.
Great work and well explained. Thank you
Great video Keith! 💪🏼 love watching your videos just satisfying 😄😁 I’m a fully qualified site joiner and yes when building stud partitions, we do normally knock them up on the floor only if the floor is level! You did it the right way due to the sagging... Well done 👍 Also sometimes doing it in situ you get a much tighter/neater build quality, than knocking them up on the floor and lifting up.
Nice job, I've just put up a wall myself recently and glad to see I hadn't done anything radically different. I just used screws everywhere as I don't have a nailer.
Good video Keith, you make it all look so easy.
nice work
i want to be woodworking but don't have tools:(
I'm not a plasterer but I have plastered a few walls in my many years on earth and I find the quicker you do it and with the plaster being quite wet the better the result .
Great video Keith. More DIY/ house work would be great. Chris.
Makes me laugh how we sound insulate walls with double door openings in 🤷🏻♂️
It'll still make a difference
@@RagnBoneBrown im not saying it won't and every house I've boarded with similar do the same just find it ironic.
Great job and video tho 👏
I was wondering why he insulated an interior wall in the first place?
@@slow96ss I’m pretty sure Keith said he was looking for a certain acoustic effect - he may want more sound deadening for sound quality in future videos👍🏻
Nice work and well done. We chamfer the edges of the plasterboards with about 45 degrees on the sides which stuck together before filling up with filler respectively before attaching to the wall. So the filler can balance the joints when the plasterboards expands and the filler can join with the material inside the board instead of the paper surface (sorry for my poor english, german native speaker 😊).
Cheers. I used tapered edge board 👍
Next time you use plaster board, consider using something like the "Bosch D60498 Drywall Dimpler", it'll reduce the chances of driving the scree too deep into the plaster board.
They look good but this isn't the type of work I do normally so wouldn't justify the expense of a new tool when I can get it done without
@@RagnBoneBrown another possible option is using Drywall Screwdriver bits. I found a 5 piece set on Amazon for £4.25
Excellent work Keith. To be honest, not cutting the carpet away from the studding makes for good draught exclusion which in turn keeps the warmth in. Great video chap
So far i like it and i love the colour . I would love to see it finished and decorated !!!!! Nice job !!!!
Great work👍 I have the same set up in my living room. One long room with an RSJ in the middle. I'm now tempted to put a stud wall in 🤔
Good job.
Nice job Keith 😁. I did exactly the same type of stud wall across our dining room years ago.. the only problem was.. the random line I decided to place it across the room was where the heating pipes were embedded in the concreat floor... not a good day 😖. Glad you squeezed the old stud detector gag in 😂.... go Dylan 🐱. Thanks for the video Keith, stay safe 😁👍.
Great job Keith, but I must say I found it a botchie not cutting away the carpet under the studdiing, both of you Stay Safe and have a nice day !!!.
You could check the crown of the studs is all the same way, so that the wall doesn’t wobble. Probably doesn’t matter here but worth checking on a longer wall.
I would also mark out the top and bottom plate at the same time. Check out Larry Hun for some amazing hammer skills.
Now is the time to get network and power cables in for Ria's and your office areas. That is something you will never regret. At least 3 per office - you can always use a network (LAN) cable for 'phone.
I love your content. Keep up the good work mate. Grettings from David in Sweden
Great example! With respect to skim coating, you could do it regardless of skills (at least in my experience). Especially when you are working on your own home. Just takes patience, raking light and (MANY) more than the three coats a pro would use so she could get on to the next job.
Looking forward to your solution on installing the new baseboard in that corner where you carved the drywall around the existing.
Surely just a normal cope?🤷♂️
In the US we just use tape and joint compound to cover seams and screws
Great job, so far
Love the fingering technique.
Stud finder (4 in 1) device amzn.to/2H978Jy (UK)
Charlie White's DIY channel Charlie Diyte: czcams.com/channels/7x7wk8yeN2ZEJCo6BgP2ag.html
Charlie White's fixing to RSJ using normal screws: czcams.com/video/G1ziRy_OJbU/video.html
This video is supported by Milwaukee, check out their full range here: uk.milwaukeetool.eu/?Social&CZcams&Rag%20N%20Bone%20Brown%20-Milwaukee%20Range
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Inkzall Marker uk.milwaukeetool.eu/en-gb/inkzall-markers/?Social&CZcams&Rag%20N%20Bone%20Brown%20-%20inkzall
Framing Nailer uk.milwaukeetool.eu/en-gb/m18-fuel-framing-nailer/m18-ffn/?Social&CZcams&Rag%20N%20Bone%20Brown%20-%20Framing%20Nailer
Circular Saw uk.milwaukeetool.eu/en-gb/m18-fuel-55-mm-circular-saw-for-wood-and-plastics/m18-ccs55/?Social&CZcams&Rag%20N%20Bone%20Brown%20-%20ccs55
Jawzilla (coming soon)
12v Drill uk.milwaukeetool.eu/en-gb/m12-fuel-sub-compact-percussion-drill/m12-fpd/?Social&CZcams&Rag%20N%20Bone%20Brown%20-12v%20fpd
12v Impact Driver uk.milwaukeetool.eu/en-gb/m12-fuel-sub-compact-8243;-hex-impact-driver/m12-fid/?Social&CZcams&Rag%20N%20Bone%20Brown%20-12v%20fid
SDS uk.milwaukeetool.eu/en-gb/m18-fuel-high-performance-4-mode-sds-plus-hammer-with-fixtec-chuck/m18-chpx/?Social&CZcams&Rag%20N%20Bone%20Brown%20-%20CHPX
Jigsaw uk.milwaukeetool.eu/en-gb/m18-fuel-top-handle-jigsaw/m18-fjs/?Social&CZcams&Rag%20N%20Bone%20Brown%20-%20M18%20Jigsaw
Spirit Levels uk.milwaukeetool.eu/en-gb/hand-tools/levels/?Social&CZcams&Rag%20N%20Bone%20Brown%20-%20Levels
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Looks good! 😄👍
Nice work!
Just curious, wouldn't the same moisture damage happen later if you just put wood by itself in the same place in direct contact with the concrete like the damaged wood you removed? Did you coat it in something or use a plastic barrier to block the moisture before installing the replacement wood?
No, the issue was that the floorboards had been butted up against the brick. The new boards were placed about 20mm away so moisture can’t transfer
Why using wood for framing and not using metal stud and system for drywalls?
Nice job mate. Oh and don’t let Ria drive the van....🤣
She can't drive!
With the Sag in the floor. Seems like the best option to me :) Good choice with the walls. Leave plastering to the professionals
Cheers Peter
5:57 Quick? Timber walls are so slooooow. That’s a hours work with metal studs. In the 24+ years I’ve been in the dry lining game I think I’ve built one timber wall. Says it all really. But, I do appreciate this is a woodworking channel 😊
Place floor plate first then use plumb-bob to line up ceiling plate. 4 x 2 studwork when there's doors in it. 2 horizontal noggins per stud running parallel to each other. 12.5 plaster board, again as there is a door frame. Remove the carpet. Run base of stud all the way through and cut off after door studs fitted. Insulation unnecessary. At the moment you are going to get a lot of flexing/wobbling in the wall resulting in the doors not closing properly.
Why bother with plumbing a line when you have a laser level?
Thanks for the tips. The doors have been fitted a couple of weeks now and no issues, the gaps are as consistent now as they were when installed so I don't think it will be an issue
great vid,whats the bench called 5:53 it looks like a triton super jaw
a tight fit on the studs would be more than enough to keep the wall in place, meaning screwing to the joist was a waste of time. I've held 4x2 in place with just instastik and it's never moved. If the opening for the door isn't perfect, just use some packers, it's how door casings are installed all the time. So much complexity for such a simple project
That's probably true but I'd prefer to secure to the walls, even if only a couple of fixings used. It's funny that as a youtuber I get just as many comments telling me how I've under built things as over built things. Everyone had their own way of doing things and everyone thinks they're right 😂👍
Just a quick observation. When you did the hole to check the RSJ you mentioned there was a 20mm gap between the plasterboard and the steel work, ideally shouldn't have a gap there. When you stuck your finger in the hole did you check if the thickness of the boxing off was 1 or 2 layers of plasterboard? Unless something like 'fireline plasterboard' was used, there should be 2 layers of plasterboard. It's to do with fire regs. If you can imagine a fire in a room, the most severe heat and flames are at ceiling height and corners, and this is the location that with intense heat can cause plasterboard to fail in minutes. This should have been picked up on the survey (depending on the type of survey) you had done when buying the house and proof that it had been signed off by Building Control. Not being picky or anything but hopefully giving some useful advice, but being a Building Surveyor this is the type of thing that insurance companies will look for and could invalidate your insurance.
No idea to be honest but not something I'm worried about. How would a building surveyor be able to identify the construction without drilling a hole in it? We got a full house survey but it was absolutely useless, it highlighted lots of non issues and missed lots of critical issues!
All good but are there any windows in the room?
Probably would have used a multi-tool to cut the skirting away or removed the skirting completely and replaced but understand the reasoning behind not doing so. Not sure about assembling on the carpet as that is a surface that will alter. Maybe would have looked at pocket doors but they are more expensive. I don’t think assembling a stud wall on the floor and putting in place would work as you wouldn’t be able to get it to fit snugly, diagonal length greater then the height. Great video as always keep up the good work.
Great video :-) I served 9 years as a 1st & 2nd fix joiner and built many a stud wall over the years. Couple of little tips which you may find easier if you ever build another one with a door way. If you start with the two vertical studs either side of the door way and work back to the walls it saves you having to faff about plumbing & packing out the two verticals against the walls.
Oh! and 5:48 You've been letting Dylan do the driving again haven't you lol :-)
Great tip thanks
Thanks for the tips
Iv just started to do odd job for people so iv started a CZcams channel called odd job bill to share my learning journey .
Thanks bill
It puzzles me why we use plaster board and then plaster over it in the UK. I thought the purpose of plaster board was to replace the plaster and lathe(?) they used to use. Mind you when my father retired, my mum had him enrolled in the local college on a plasterer's course and got him to re-plaster their house.
Hi Keith , i see you were using your milwaukee impact driver. Didn't you use a hikoki before.
If you did and no longer need it would you consider selling it . My one gave up so I have two batteries with no impact drive .
I am relying on ordinary combi drill which do not cut the mustard in my trade(windscreen fitting) .
Bye .
Never mind the wall!*
What happened to your van?
*Great job. ;-)
The worst part is that the other side of the van almost matches :-(
@@RagnBoneBrown Oh crap. What happened?
I've done this recently. I had to split a bedroom into two. Pretty much exactly the same way I did it apart from the insulation which in hindsight would of been better considering two teenagers on either side. But hey ho. Great work Keith. Keep it up.
Thanks Anthony
it's just me being fussy but i prefer using 4" timber for stud walls, less flex
Wow..did you get a Survey done when you bought the bungalow?
Where did you get your Milwaukee super jaws
If you'd have cut the skirting board you wouldn't of needed to cut the stud or the plasterboard , also you could of just screwed the stud to the wall without packing the top out , aslong as you made the next one plumb 👍
It would of made for a neater job , great videos tho
I can't believe you didn't remove the carpet and put a stud wall directly on top, 😮😮😮😮😮😮😮
😱
@@RagnBoneBrown 🤣
this is the wackiest floor plan i have ever seen......good job on the wall though, very useful vid
Nice build, another feather in your cap. You'll be able to charge for partition walls soon at this rate ;-)
That’s a laugh
Another great vid what laser level would you recommend general diyer
next time wen u are doing a stud wall and fixing to brick use concrete fixing instead of screws and wall plugs
Looked like there were no insulation under the floorboards, is this the case?
Seems you would get pretty cold floors during the winter?
Yeah. It's a 1930s bungalow
Good thing you got the stiff upper lip to deal with it! 🥶
Always enjoy your work. Question. What in the world happened to the side of your vehicle?????
Scrape with a wall
I’ve seen people in other videos glue floor boards down as well as nails to prevent squeaking in the future. Do you think that’s overkill? Also great videos. It’s nice to have content from the same country.
I think it'd make them trickier to lift and re fit if access was ever needed beneath if they were glued. As long as the span between joists isn't too big and the boards stretch across a few joists they shouldn't move or squeak, that's my opinion anyway but I'm no expert
Great video Keith, real satisfying to see the room transformed so quickly! Out of curiosity what is an RSJ and why would it be used over timber?
RSJ = Rolled Steel Joist = i beam
A steel I beam. A timber beam would be much deeper to carry the same load.
Nice work as usual, Keith. Did you consider using Masonry Torx Frame Fixing Screws (Toolstation Product code: 39995) instead of the rawlplug method at 8:47 ? I've found them to be great - especially as all the bricks used in my home are the ones with holes in them, and rawlplugs always seem to find them.
Thanks Don, I've used them before and yes they're great. But I didn't have any to hand so just used what I had
Go Dylan!
I find it strange we have 47mm X 70mm as is called a 3" X 2", but also a 38mm X 63mm can be called 3" X 2", actually I suppose the 38 X 63mm is actually 2" X 3" as if we've imported the Canadian standard, we need to adopt there nomenclature.
Very interesting content, thanks!
Yeah, or just standardise the use of metric! 😂
@@RagnBoneBrown absolutely, just insane we still use mixed systems.
@adie chip understand the evolution of timber, what makes no sense is the duplication of standards, or sticking with outdated measurement systems when something demonstrably better in many ways is available (I think the doubling of the denominator for splitting board in half is only positive of imperial I'm aware of).
@adie chip I have seen various studies comparing the two systems and due to the fact that with the decimal system you just move the decimal point, and measurement is more easily accurate, result in much lower levels of waste.
With a imperial measurement of ½" divided in two becomes ¼" so you are doubling the bottom part of the fraction to divide in two.
@adie chip they are supposed to be self adjusting, but are just crap, I did turn the black screw on them that the clamp bears on. They have gone now as they were so crappy.
Obligatory hate for not cutting carpet away! You should cut the carpet away!!! (Even though I would have done thing as you :D)
😂
Ria how would you fancy having your office in the garage and I can just move my workshop into this massive space... don’t tell me it didn’t cross your mind 😂 another great job Keith I need to think of a reason to buy a framing nailer 👍👌
😂👍
Great job Keith... Just wondering what happened with the damage on the side of your van though?
It's like that on both sides unfortunately 🙄
How come you didn’t Jack stud the opening?
No reason to really seeing as the header above the door isn't holding any weight, as the RSJ is doing that
@@RagnBoneBrown true, but Inwas thinking more in terms of pulling sideways with the weight of the two glazed doors hung there, or are you just putting hollow cores on there instead?
The noggins and header will add enough structural integrity to prevent that
Great video. One question. Were you not concerned about the damp in the wall above the skirting? It looks like it's not only the floor boards that had moisture in them.
Keep up the good work. I love watching your work.
Hi Steven. Not concerned about that, it's old - we had a big mold and condensation problem when we moved in, but since then have installed a PIV system and trickle vents in all the windows for air flow. Hopefully it shouldn't come back!
@@RagnBoneBrown have you done a video about the PIV system? It is something I have considered. Would perhaps make for an interesting/different video.
Look forward to the next video on the wall!
Great job! Are you Sponsored by Milwaukee ?
Actually a good thing u didn't cut the carpet away is its tensioned between the carpeting strips cutting it around the floor board would have made the carpet bubble up so good thinking to screw right thru the carpetting
When using stub work as a full framed wall use folding wedges at the top or bottom to force the frame firm & fix through
Great tip
Hi mate good job iv built lost of stud walls in my time and i use both way and I think it up to the individual and what u feel comfortable with love the workshop Tour and ur new tools looking good mate if ur ever need any advice feel free to contact me on fb 👍
Nice job. Here in the US many builders will spray "orange peel" texture over the sheetrock/plasterboard. It can hide some imperfections and reduces echo. Special pneumatic spray gun with gravity feed hopper of a gallon or so of the texture paint - heavy.
Personally i prefer to plaster a wall , i just love the look. But at the end of the day its personal choice. Im trying to figure out how im going to justify a framing nailer to my wife.
Did you have to get planning permission to do any of this work?
No I don't think it's needed
😊👍
Hi keith, I subscribed to your patreon but afterwards I realised I could become a paid member of your youtube channel for the same price. What's the difference between the two?
Hi Byron, there's no difference really other than Patreon is a bit of a clunky website in terms of finding things but everything is there, whereas CZcams channel membership has everything apart from the ability to store downloadable plans. If you're interested in any of my plans I'd suggest sticking with Patreon, if not then you can always join CZcams instead if you'd prefer
@@RagnBoneBrown cheers Keith! I think for usability I’ll subscribe to CZcams directly rather than Patreon. I find Patreon clunky and on my tablet it only works in portrait mode! Either way keep up the good work and I’ll support you however I can 👍🏼
@@Byront83 thank you!
🐈 8:06
DAMP oh no
Why didn't you put osb sheets behind the plaster boards? That way you would have no problems putting up shelves and picture frames on the wall and get much sturdier walls. That good practice, at least in Scandinavia. Cheers!
Not standard here in the UK. I don't think we're mounting anything on the walls anyway