Money Saving Exhaust Repair -EricTheCarGuy
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- čas přidán 29. 08. 2024
- My friend came to me with a broken exhaust and he didn't have a lot of money to spend. I decided to weld the pipe rather than replace it. The cost, $0. With a little time, some preparation, and a welder you can save a lot of money on exhaust repairs.
With a little time and practice your welding will get better. Repairs like this are a great way to practice and save yourself some money at the same time.
Camera: Brian Kast, Eric Cook
Thanks for watching!
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I just got a call from the Buick dealer here in Rochester telling me my flanges were badly rusted and I could either replace or go to a muffler shop where they likely could weld. Much less expensive. So, this being the 21st-century and all, I googled the subject up and ended viewing this CZcams video by Eric the Car Guy. I went from total ignorance to having a good visual image of flanges and what this was all about. The visuals alone would be very valuable but Eric, you did a darn good job of talking through this, entertaining and educating at the same time so thanks a lot. I just wish you lived down the block. You would have my business.
I have done repairs like this before but I like to put a sleeve on the inside. That will reinforce the connection and give the weld bead more material to flow into.
You guys act like he should be GMAW certified. Well I am a welder myself and Eric has done a pretty damn good job for welding such thin metal above his head in a tight place. Keep up the good work Eric!
+dirtshower250 agree
+dirtshower250 Ya,I weld exhaust all the time, over the years I've build numerous race car chassis involving rollcages,hand built suspensions,narrowed rearends, custom sheetmetal,you name it and still I have bad days welding up rusted old exhaust systems. rust can make experienced welds look like rookies
+v8consumption I totally agree with points 1, 2 and 4, but finding a piece of similar material to practice on isn't always possible in the automotive garage environment. That's where experience using your welding equipment comes in. learning what settings to start at is only learned through practice with a particular machine.
for all the newbies,you need 3 things to become a proficient welder,they are-----practice, practice and more practice
+dirtshower250 according to american standards maybe... this is shit weld for any type of space thickness. doesnt seem like he knows you should weld downwards with a mig either.
+dirtshower250 according to american standards maybe... this is shit weld for any type of space thickness. doesnt seem like he knows you should weld downwards with a mig either.
This reminds me of my student days, no welder available, but the hole was on a 90 degree bend in the pipe, not on a flange. Wrapped it up in aluminum kitchen foil, then cut out the sides of a soda can, squeezed that around the foil-covered hole. Used metal wire to tighten it all up with pliers. Drove it around like that for nine months, borrowed time, free of charge. ;-)
Neal William Miller grape or "orange" flavor for sure lol
Good job The next repair use the bosal repair paste, and run engine just 10 minute!!! :):):)Perfect ! learned all this from the wonderful team of manyautosltd.com they are really supportive and guide you if you need any help
Stacking tacks is usually easiest way to do thin wall tube like exhaust, least chance or burn thru. Also bounce from side to side to minimize heat soaking the metal
Just some advice from an old welder... Its better for you to start at the top and work your way down.. When you reach the bottom, switch to the other side and work your way down again... Let gravity do its job... Trying to weld vertically up is much harder, and actually has a whole technique of its own.
+Justin Ayers Cool. Thanks for the advice. I'll try that next time.
Damnit Bobby I can show you a lot of downhills with penetration lmao especially on thin stuff. Yeah uphill has better penetration but if you don’t know what you’re doing you end up with dogturds
Thanks 🙏 for the advice.
That is a good habit to have that work clamp very close to where you are welding. It keeps the electrical return path as short as possible. I learned that early on when I first got my everlast welder and was being taught by a very knowledgeable welder.
Me as a 21 year old who does all his own work. Really appreciate Guys like you! Helps me a lot. My exhaust broke at the welds that were already on it now my muffler is scraping. So this helps me know what to do to fix it up and get it on the road by the end of the day.
Damn, some of Y'all need a snickers candy Bar, complaining about the welding etc , lol it was a 17 year old car , not a bridge or new car. He saved his friend some money. He took his time to put this video online to help Y'all who are DIY . I would be happy with the outcome had it been my car !
oh yeah, you're absolutely right. I have two cars that are 21 years old and exhaust work of this kind is common. that fix went beautifully.
Honestly complaining about people complaining is just as bad if not worse than people complaining about his welds.
That said that weld was terrible and his wife speed was way off. But he’s a mechanic not a welder. But that doesn’t change it being an ugly weld lol
@@mrmidnight32 "Honestly complaining about people complaining is just as bad if not worse than people complaining about his welds."
That statement is illogical as it assumes all complaints are equally valid. They are not. You see, the complaints about the welding do not offer specific criticisms, better methods to use, or reasons why the weld is unacceptable.
Meanwhile, the counter complaints offer that this is a non-structural component, a thin wall, a heavily rusted environment, done overhead, accomplished the original goal of sealing the exhaust, saved money over alternate repair methods, and that a weld on a vehicle of this age has reduced standards.
As a guy who has welded TWICE in my life with no training or practice at all and has videos of his welds online (you don't, you only have bad gameplay videos of generic shooter games that you play terribly) my opinion is that his weld was fine. Sure, it looked horrible. Sure, it has reduced structural integrity compared to a better weld.. But it has more integrity than half of the remaining pipe does, so when a fault occurs, the first two or three won't happen where he welded. And that's the criteria for a good weld: It performs the job it was asked to perform.
But unless I see you welding your exhaust, or at the very least using basic logic accessible to an 8 year old to make specific, measurable claims in regards to what is good or bad welding, all you'll ever see me do is mock you because you make it quite easy and amusing to do.
@@mrmidnight32 it's not structural so it doesn't matter.
@@ent1311 you guys are a “everyone gets a medal type” and it shows. I’m sorry I just call it like I see it and have a standard of good, excellent, poor and terrible…
On my 1993 Vigor, the pipe right behind the muffler was swiss cheese. I put some patch tape on it just to get by, but when it fell off I went to a less tawny part of town, and a repair shop replaced the resonator and fabricated a new pipe back to the muffler, replacing the flanged pieces for $114!
I got to watch. The guy was really good with the pipe bender and the car is dead quiet now. Even if I had a MIG welder, I'd rather watch somebody else do it for what I paid.
I might have gone with a split sleeve to get on to sound metal. Short bit of pipe, split along it's length. Slide sleeve over the end of the pipe (smear of exhaust paste to lubricate and aid sealing). Move sleeve to contact flange. Tack both ends of sleeve first then run weld along all seams (including split). This method is easy to weld with area at the flange strengthened beyond a single weld as you have done in your video. Hope you do not mind my ten cents worth. Keep the vids coming - enjoy watching them.
repairing exhaust is one of the most difficult job to do with a MIG welder as it very difficult to clean completely the rust, the material is often extra thin and the access is limited.
Eric does a damn good job
Lmao its dirty that is exactly why using wirefeed
I like this guy, he's so calm and mellow, he could do ASMR videos.
1. Make sure you have a good ground (find or make a clean place for your ground)!
2. Clean everything within a 1/4" of your weld to bear metal inside and out (if there's a gap or you burn through it will fill easier without the contaminates inside getting into your weld).
3. Dial in your welder on similar piece of scrap before you start.
4. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A GOOD GROUND!
I would have (maybe) left the rear hanger on and unbolted the front flange and dropped it down after tacking it, but then that could be a whole other problem.
Eric fixes cars better than I can. He's a mechanic.
I weld better than he can. I'm a welder.
I fix cars too, but Eric is better.
Eric welds, but I'm better.
Seriously, nothing really wrong with what he did.
Either way, we both get the job done one way or the other. Good on him for looking out for his mate. The job he did is good for what it needs to be.
used my dads welder today without any experience welding at all, figured out how to set it up and welded up my 89 325is exhaust today. Super ugly weld but im stoked i did it lol
I bought a cheapo mig welder a few years ago and have been running flux core wire, no need of gas and its saved me a bundle. 110 mig welders can be bought for $150 on sale and usually come with a spool of flux wire, it pays for itself with the first muffler repair.
Another good job. You mentioned you were just going to patch it up for the time being and all the comments still come thinking the welds should be perfect. No one pays attention.
Just a word of caution Eric, don't fall subject to the myth that unhooking your battery will prevent "cooking" your computers. Fact of the matter is electricity is still electricity. The flow of electrons are going to take what ever path is easiest regardless if the battery is hooked up or not so if that is through the wire of the BCM, PCM, TIPM etc. "poof" up in smoke it goes.. With that being said when you are working on a car or truck and using your mig practice keeping your working clamp (aka ground clamp) as close to your work as possible to prevent any damage to electrical components. Just a thought.
--Eric O.
+South Main Auto Repair Thanks for the tip Eric.
+EricTheCarGuy Can you please cover Oil Catch Cans on petrol and diesel cars?????? Thanks
+EricTheCarGuy You can also buy a type of surpressor that hooks onto the battery to prevent issues I've seen, not sure how well they work.
+EricTheCarGuy You can also take a photo of the fuse box then remove all of the fuses to further isolate the circuits. Then once done put the fuses back in place as per the photo. Using very thin gauge MIG wire can also help when welding thin walled parts.
+South Main Auto Repair I agree, I practice and tell people to ground what your welding. If you weld exhaust, ground on the exhaust. Chassis welds, ground the chassis. Be mindful of things like gaskets and bushings that will act like insulators to the current flow. Whenever its feasible, I disconnect the computer all together. 10 minutes of extra work is well worth saving hours of uh-oh.
First time watching a do it yourself video about cars, learnt so much. so easy to follow. Like how you don't assume we have previous knowledge or know all the steps.
10/10 Eric the Car Guy!
Thanks Eric, i wish i had friend like you that would take the time and also produce a vid. for DIY's. People dont realize when you are driving a older car into the ground to save for a newer car how this really helps out.good job
gotta love that electrical ''stitching' sound a MIG makes...
I'll just say thanks Eric. Way to many experts here.
Good to see he is wearing face protection. I dread the times when wire comes flying off the angle grinder. My exhaust is making noises and I suspect I've got a crack in the pipe somewhere. Time to get out the everlast. I will probably weld in place as Eric did. I don't want to unbolt everything.
no critics i dont like how people talk bad or try to say oh you could of done this when we know u couldnt do what he would do in this vid. he is the master at working in cars hes fix way more than this lol so no reason to criticize or judge his work. he did an awesome job plus hes helpimg those out who dont want to put money in their car and do easy fixes. so to me he did great thumbs up eric awesome bro
so nice to have that lift! I would die for one...but im a poor college student doing my connector/clamp exhaust fix under an amazon cardboard box. Nice job!
I work off of a cardboard box too. One problem with installing a lift is you need a high ceiling.
great job Eric. hope all the mechanics are like you, helping car owners save some cash
I've done this kind of repair before but I prefer to weld a slightly smaller diameter of pipe inside the flange and then the rest of the B pipe fits much better and welds really strong.
Hi Eric, I had to do same job on a Honda. I used a 90 AMP Harbor Frieght welder laying on a gravel drive way. Your weld looks much better than mine. Good tip on dropping the hangers. Nice Job
Like the fact that you didn't edit out the part where you had to go back and re weld the top of the pipe to the flange. Hate when some videos make it seem like everything went perfectly the first time. I've done repairs where it takes up to 3 times longer than the video to make repairs because they edit and fail to mention the problems they ran into. Thanks for the video.
I have the same situation at a flange connection and will be doing the same thing. It is nice to see you doing it first and it worked. I really appreciate the video.
It's a money saver. That's whe did it the way he did it. A super quality weld wasn't what he was going for.
Best free welding job I've ever seen! Thanks for the video
welding structural steel or 6 inch pipe ( which is what is generally taught in traditional schools ) is significantly different than doing this kind of welding. learning how to run a hot pass in open roots, unlimited thickness dual shield certifications, etc...none of it compares to automotive welding. eric took the time to show some folks (do it yourselfers) how to potentially save a few bucks by doing a simple repair on the exhaust to help his friend get by. its a mazda, not a top fuel dragster. it doesnt have to be perfectly engineered, or welded within 0.010 of an inch. it doesnt have to meet the requirements of any welding codes. its easy to judge someone and be a nay-sayer being a keyboard jockey. try putting this amount of effort into helping friends, and the entire motor enthusiast community online by doing the things that eric does...on a daily basis. i promise you'll be singing a different tune when you have to walk a mile in someone else's shoes.
Blake Thompson fuck welding codes I'm going to do a custom exhaust with glass packs and my own welds
Hey, you can save yourself some money if you have your own car lift and mig welder. If you already have that stuff, you probably don’t need this video.
Do you trust the quality of welds from Auto Muffler shops? Or is it that for that application they need not be perfect.
Welder/fabricator here, removing the bolts from a flange and taking it off is not the greatest idea, over time the flanges get rusty and warped there's usually a gasket in between and getting it to seal back up would be a task, he did the right thing, although he should have cut out pipe behind the catalytic converter and installed a new section. Maybe a 2-6 inch piece. Or delete the flange completely.
So the tail pipe & muffler rotted off at the exhaust pipe of my 08 mustang similar to that. I called the local shop, the guy acted like he didn't know what I was talking about & wouldn't give me a quote for a tac & weld.?? He tried to make it sound like a mystical experience I couldn't understand. No Way am I taking my car there! Thanks for helping me confirm that! I just needed a little customer service & a ball park. I wasn't trying to have phone sex, I just needed the asshole to talk to me. He won't be getting my business!
Thanks man!
I agree with dirtwelder162 or whatever. Eric, we have all been there for a friend or family member who needs the exhaust to last 6 months or a year. Pulling weld from the thicker flange onto the thinner pipe is an option with burn-thru. Another, weld a 2” length of donor pipe from the scrap barrel. Weld it too the flange, the clean, slide the old into a proper sized shorty that is easy to work the MIG torch around for a complete weld. This puts the thin stuff inside. Yes, they owe you a steak dinner...with sides and a cold one! Friend. You know.
ASE Master - Retired 10 years ago (now 2021) still fixing!
DirtShower250 cool name!
I had different “lifetime” muffler “replacement” warranties…. They were both(big name companies)! Very talented - make up brackets that add abnormal tension on the welded bracket - pipe rust through anear the weld and the tension pulls the bracket away New exhaust leak EVERY TWO YEARS! Muffler free BUT “ we need to replace all your pipes or the “WARRANTY” is voided. $300 every 2 years!!!!!!
simple welding trick for getting a good ground is to take an old battery cable and remove the sheathing wrap the cable around the exhaust and attach the clamp to the cable, stranded cables work better giving you a bagillion contact points.
Bringing that face shield down like a total badass
I'm a pro welder too. He did okay for what it was. As we say over here, fit for purpose.
Only issue with welding old exhausts is that once they start cracking, it means the pipe has become embrittled with heat and age and will probably break again near the weld in time. But hey, it is a good way to keep the car on the road whilst you save enough to replace the system sometime. Keep on doing it until you're ready.
Surprising really.. Don't often see you Americans leaving the safety guard on the grinder! lol.
I agree with using the face shield though. I had a guy on my crew who used to use the wire buff on a 9" grinder to prep steel for painting. He would come into my office to talk about something, and I would tell him to pluck those wire strands sticking out of his face. He never realised they were in him!
i just wonder i live in europe so its 220V-50hz in us its 110-60hz is there a big diference in welding.By the sound its more high pitched.The top part looks great
The weld is ok , he know what to do but maybe more amps and thicker wire but that can also melt the pipe
Eric, you're doing two things wrong.1) Your wire feed speed it too high. When you get sputtering that's almost always the reason. Turn it down slightly from where you had it.2) Your holding the MIG gun too far away from the work. Get in there tight. It gives you better shielding gas coverage and improves the arc.
+SATAMAN Schmidt mostly youre second point way to farr,
+SATAMAN Schmidt Thanks for the tip. I'll give that a try next time.
i like my high, i can do some pretty good welding an only done it few times. from what i learnt is that weld in spots as you move along for each second which give you a nice flat straight line weld instead of bubbles or curve an not straight which looks ugly. just my idea for these sort of things when you cant do a perfect weld in hard areas to work with.
Stfu
Maui Kawi all he was doing was giving some tips. Honestly I'd rather have constructive criticism to make my work higher quality for my clients, than block out everyone and do it my way purposely worse. Just saying man.
Just a a little tip for getting the top of exhaust welded. Use a 1/16 6013 rod at 40 amps, bend the rod in a u shape, I usually hold inspection mirror in one hand and stinger in the other. Works every time!
Great job Eric. Seems like you could gave unbolted the flange from cat to pipe and rewelded the flange to straight pipe. Still the same deal in the end. Happy welding 👍👍
Sure, but those flange bolts are probably 'permanent', and he's likely not getting paid, so faster is better.
Eric great videos and for those that don't have access to a welder using a slip fit exhaust connector is another great fix to keep the neighbors happy trick is IO vs OD if you have say 2.5" exhaust you can get a 2.5 ID to 2.25 OD the 2.5 ID will slip over while the 2.25 will slip inside. Hope this helps someone!-)
Bought and have owned that ratchet for the last 3 years and it’s great! I will say if you’re looking at getting one watch out for sales because I think I got mine for $40-$50 due to Napa running deals on the Carlyle line from time to time.
i tried doing this yesterday on my civic with the same problem. extremely hard unless you have thin welding wire. i found it much easier to just sawzall the flanges off and slide in a nipple/coupling piece with claims. only like 14$.... and super tight
Love all the internet warrior professional welders criticizing the welding on a 25 year old car exhaust like its a bridge or high pressure vessel.
People be making it like the orphanage is going to shut down and babies left out on the cold streets because the welds are not clean enough.
VexingCode I love the 8 year old kids trying to justify those terrible welds by trying to counter people calling it what it was... A really ugly and terrible weld lol
That guy had really bad undercut. I mean it works, but you wouldn't want a painter to come paint your house, and paint all over the trim of your house.
@@davidjames666 LOL
@3 name changes allowed every 90 days. they let people change names that much?
Eric, I have been doing exhaust work for 30 years. I have never disconnected the battery while welding on the exhaust and have never had any issues with frying the computer. Another good tip is don't weld up hill. Start at the top and work your way down.
doing this with a welding machine that feeds flux core wire like I have is really hard in my opinion . you made this look easy.
you sir are a genius. I wish I thought of that before I made a giant blob weld on the top of my rangers new glass pack muffler.
aw I was hoping he would show us how it sounded before the repair :c
Camera man brians camera is awesome...... good job the clarity is great
ETCG. I'm so grateful for all the help all I can do is ASMR to your MIG welding montage. It was over 28 excellent seconds of binaural metal ecstasy. While I eventually had to rip the headphones off, I mostly supremely appreciate your humorous, no bullship way of teaching the world how to work on cars. Much TX hippienailguychxsawwielderfagemoji.
You provide such great material to your viewers. I appreciate all of your hard work. I truly appreciate it!
Eric, had an almost exact problem the other day. I was using a stick welder so I unbolted the flange, found a 6" piece of pipe that would fit in the rusted pipe, welded it to the flange in my bench vice, slid it into the rusted pipe, clamped the flange halves back together and put a muffler clamp on the pipe. Looks easier than this way and less dirt in your face, but your way is probably quicker. Thanks for the vid. have a good wknd.
In this case you could probably just use exhaust flange that has pipe that goes around the old pipe. It should hold just as long as this repair but not require welding.
That car is very clean underneath, I'm too used to having lumps of dirt and rust falling on me from cars over this side of the pond :)
If it works, it works. Especially considering that gap you had to weld up, that went pretty well. I ended up welding two exhaust flanges together recently rather than replacing a bad gasket... the whole exhaust system's coming out sooner or later and the fasteners were so corroded that the bolts have no recognizable threads or heads left. The exhaust leak had rotted out the floorboard above so I didn't even have to drop the exhaust to weld the top!
we do this all the time in the Midwest. I always recommend that the pieces be replaced though. about a month ago I welded in a section and customer came back a few days ago as another section broke, the exhaust was so paper thin its no surprise. so naturally he comes in with the attitude that "you guys just fixed it and it broke"
this mazda clearly just wants to be like its bigger sportier and much louder rotary brothers
Eric im a big fan definatly the best and funnyist mechanic on youtube lol
Thank you for the informative video. My 2003 Honda CR-V has a similar issue and I can't justify paying a grand for replacing the whole exhaust system when there are a couple of flanges that have rotted out.
I realize it's a help video. But, y not disconnect the broken flange end and the other flange closer to the muffler. Make orientation Mark's, take it of and weld it, in position. Wouldn't take any longer
3:30 Putting a soft booted clamp on each side of the exhaust, then running two longer clamps to pull those two together, is one way to butt them together.
Hah! the exhaust pipe on my mazda 626 broke in the same place and when searched youtube for advice on fixing it this is the first video that popped up. Thanks Eric.
Great job as always Eric. Eric's welding is perfect. And all those haters out there that can "WELD" I'll bet cant speak worth of beans in front of a camera. ERIC IS NOT only talented with mechanics/trades but he's gifted with the ability to deliver a great lesson/knowledge in a video. Cheers Eric
Eric, from the look of that weld, it appears that it wasn't hot enough. Maybe more amps
I replaced the oil pan on my car yesterday (I went to do an oil change and when I gave it a quick wipe to remove some of the caked-on grit, large oil-drenched rust flakes rained everywhere - the pan had been slowly dripping for a while) and since the exhaust runs right under the pan, I had to drop the front pipe to give myself some room to access some of the pan bolts. The most difficult part of the pan replacement was prying the old pan off of the OE sealant - no gasket on 2003 Accent. When I started it up to run the new oil through, check for leaks and level. I ended up discovering that I cracked the welds on both sides of the exhaust's flex coupling. (I think they were already cracked a little before I started.)
It is on days like these that I really wish I had a MIG welder or knew someone who had one.
Nice fix, I have a leak just like this one but I'm disabled so I can't afford much and don't have a welder at home, I thing I will try soup cans so I can pass the emission test, and have it replaced when I have some money. God Bless you brother☮🇺🇸
I thought my welds were bad. Thanks for making me feel better.
Thin rusty metal is a royal PIA to weld. An easier way to repair a rotted off flange is with a short reducer fitting. You grab one that fits over the pipe and inside the flange. Grind the rust off the flange, stuff the new reducer in, then put the pipe into the new section. Either braze or weld the new piece in and you're done.
I cannot stress enough how important it is to wear a face shield AND safety glasses while grinding. One is not a substitute for another. Recently at work I had a piece of metal go into my right eye and it had to be removed with a drill, the whole experience was not fun. It is so easy to eliminate this by use ALL the proper personal protective equipment
What if I just use glasses
After getting a piece of steel dust in one eye when wearing goggles I bought an airflow helmet, one with a battery on the back of the head and a fan than blows clean filtered air downwards over the face. Keeps me cool on the hottest days and removes anything in the air down to 5 microns. The perspex has a disposable clean film over it and is impact-resistant. Not cheap, but totally game-changing; it is superb! Highly recommended. Grinder fragments, router or sander dust - you name it, nothing gets through.
Look after your eyes, and your lungs. Failing to do so is a fool's game.
When welding a difficult spot (top side of the pipe in this case) you might try using a mirror. Might save you a little time. Thanks for sharing your welding journey.
Good stuff Eric. Hope you find a new garage of your own soon. Take care 🙌
Sounded like you needed more wire speed, if its not a consistent sound of bacon frying its a pretty clear indicator that your wire speed isn't staying in contact with the puddle.
Is there a reason you couldn't have dropped the front end -- after first tacking/welding -- in order to reach the top of the pipe? (Just asking as a novice.)
My old Probe's exhaust rusted out in the same place. I didn't have a garage or any money so I ended up cutting off the flange and flex-piped it. (I used a coat-hangers to hold the "repair" up. . . . . . . I think one of the hangers was missing and/or rusted off too.) It got me past a tough year. Come to think of it, I did other cheap "repairs" with coat-hangers. You should do a whole special on just how useful the coat hanger is. To this day I keep one in my car just incase. I think it should be mandatory in every emergency tool-kit, right next to duct-tape, vice-grips, JB-Weild and WD40.
small request, when welding please sheild the camera from the arch, if i remerber correctly you can still get welders blindness through a screen.
I was drilling a small hole into iron. The drill shattered and a small spec lodged in my eye (tried removing it with a neodymium magnet, but it came out by itself after a week.). Even something simple as drilling a hole can do it.
Another incident: my brother turned an engine over by hand. It was separated from the car, not connected to anything, so what can happen?
The spark holes were plugged with plastic caps.. the compression popped one out with force, almost striking my eye. Danger lurks everywhere in a shop.
10:43 mechanics face.
Just an idea.. what about REMOVING that section out to weld on a bench and then put it back?
+Tiago Garcia Right !!! At least take the flange off .... weld it and bolt it back together !! SIMPLE !!!
+Tiago Garcia Removing the section is preferable, I agree.
But I would like to put a few spot welds on it before dismantling, just to make sure the flange gets welded in the perfect position...
nope. trust me. that would be ten times more work, plus a new gasket and bolts to say the least. may even have to drill the bolts out of the holes.
he did it the correct way. it's an old, old car.
Saw this after I ordered a new pipe for the exact same problem and exact same car...don’t know if the rusty exhaust woulda held up if I had welded it back together but I guess I shoulda gave it a shot
Hey Eric. Just a little tip, try to weld down instead of up. since the metal turns liquid when is hot, it tends to run down.
Good job. Also a good move by lowering the exhaust to get to the top of the pipe.
A money saving tip only if you already have the equipment or have a good buddy like Eric who will do it cheap. Most shops will charge more in labor than the new pipe would cost.
Wish I saw this earlier. I had the same issue and my welds were really bad. But I was on the ground with some jack stands. Wish I had access to a lift.
If you have a car with factory stainless steel exhaust, buying a new OEM pipe used off ebay from a place where there is no salt can really be a good solution. I bought a B pipe and muffler from a CA car for my legacy. The originals went 9 years in the salt and the Ebay ones looked almost new. At the same price as Walker junk aftermarket lucky to last 3 years replacement pipes.
nice job you did there....I don't have a MIG but instead i used a Stick Welder and a 3/32in E6011 rod....
When you have a gap and welding thin metal, easier to do single tacks on one side then the other, it will allow the metal to cool and lessens the chance of it blowing through. Just like you were doing a sheet metal repair on a body. In addition, start at the thickest part (Flange) and jump the tack to the thinner part (pipe). Clean it off then go back around it stitching both pieces together. So you are "stitching" from flange, to weld, to pipe, to weld, back to flange. That way it gives you more metal to work with...
And I would have tacked it, then only dropped it at the flange to get the top and wedge something between the pipe and bottom of the car to hold it down...
Been there before... but no lift... doing it in the driveway laying on a creeper... Fun times...
Also I have used an old ratchet strap to pull the pipes together just long enough to get it tacked... Get it wet so it don't catch fire from any spatter.
Thank you eric ive been up and down on you tube and I could not seem to find a video that would show me how to mig weld a muffle cause I just bought my first welder and iam exited to try it out on a muffler this weeked, so thanks for taking the time to make a video about that,also you just showed me that not only do you take the negative post off for other stuff but also for welding again thank you,
cut the two bolts off…..drop the pipe 5-6 inches…you now have full access to top.
maybe even push a short 'sleeve' in to provide better metal to weld to. Maybe a new
gasket on lift up of 2 bolt flange . Per other perforation… take 3" piece of next side larger…id = od of existing pipe….slot the 3" piece…wrap it over the perked area…temp clamp it ( radiator hose clamp)…weld both ends then seam… voila done
Welding thin rusted pipe is very short lived…the splice will last for years. Nice lift !
I have watched a few of Eric the car guy videos and he's really good he explains things in full I give I'm his 5 stars
from personal experience its almost always easier to just cut the flange off and replace it with a short piece of tubing either smaller or larger diameter if you don't have access to a expander or reducer
This is exactly the same problem I found today. My exhaulst on my Land rover is in good condition , but the flange on one pipe has come away from the pipe. So clean that there is no sign of weld at first inspection. I just wonder if this is deliberate manufacturing ploy. So, armed with this information I am going to try and repair the flange as the rest of the system looks really sound.
You're a class act Eric. Keep up the good work!
I would have just jammed a coupler in there with quiksteel. Did that on a 02 mazda 626 2 years ago exactly where he's working and it's still working...
You are doing great Eric!. I started weld years ago and then put it aside. I got back into it and it is like riding a bike you might be a little wobble at first but it all comes back to you. Also Patience. go slow and allow the metal to melt. Welding is all about going SLOW. I stick weld and I love it!
Just wait till you TIG, you'll love it
I like the arc welding because of the need for gas. I do all my welding out side, I still would like to try it out. I hear it is easy to weld with. I will post my crappy welds on my channel in a couple of days and talk about my thoughts on Arc welding.
+Big Guy Review all welding is arc welding, which process are you talking about? And yes, any process that requires gas is no good for outdoor use, but that's not what it was designed for.
I meant shielded metal arc welding. Every one knows this to be arc welding or stick welding. Yes to say all electric welding is arc welding is correct. To ask me what kind i meant is kinda lame. Anyways I hope you can respect me for using the correct wording in my response. Let those electrons flow!!!!!
+Big Guy Review I didn't know what you meant because you said you loved it because it required a gas, so I assumed you were talking about FCAW, MIG, or GTAW.
I know that it's not always possible but I would have removed the sections to be repaired, time would be saved and it would have been easier to do a cleaner weld.
That's exactly the same spot the muffler in my 2004 sienna broke. I'm taking it to a repair shop tomorrow. Hopefully they won't charge me too much.
Good info bro! I have a pipe on my truck to fix so I watched yours and will give it a go.
Been there, done that. LOL! Exceept I put a couple steel rod braces from the flange to the pipe to offload a bit of stress from the weld. OH!! Please make sure you guys check for gas leaks on older vehicles before you fire up the welder!