Jason, that was a nice bit of inadvertent comedy. When one reaches inside one's drawers for a tool the right diameter. That is golden! I have been wanting one of these for years. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year's!
Looks like an excellent tool, thanks for sharing your thoughts on it. I do not do enough photo etch work to warrant having one but can see it is well worth it for those who do.
Hi Jason, I have seen these, but have never considered them necessary, until now! I have a really big set of drill bits I have been using for rolling photo etch. I guess I'll have to ask Santa for one! See you next time.
Nice one Jason, I'm with you - its one of those tools that is so useful when working with etch, it saves so much time. I think worth every penny (or pound). Cheers Bob
Just a quick question. On the website there are two versions of this tool it seems. The deluxe version that you have which only has steel rollers and retails for around £60 and a standard version with both steel and wood rollers which is half the price. Do you know what the difference is please? Importantly do they both have the same back ie that flexible reverse mat that allows you to roll cylinders?
I’m torn on the whole PE thing. I question whether the cost capitalization is worth the ultimate benefit. Most PE is there to purportedly provide more realism to the piece. Bent fenders etc.. However, if one studies enough historical photos one will see that fenders and side skirts are more likely to be MISSING rather than bent. Resin is cheaper and gives a decent amount of detail. Then there’s the prep and the time making PE and the tooling. Most lay persons would not even notice that a model has PE and not its original mold. Modelers know, but that’s just it. Only we do. I’ve made enough scratch add ons and resin to well nigh equal a decent set of Voyager. Not against it, just call me a skeptic.
PE makes all the difference with exhaust grills (precision lazor cut) from Aber to aluminum gun barrels. Say goodbye to plastic seam lines. I'm still learning how to bend parts.
@@kenlang5268 I agree totally on exhausts and I always use metal barrels . I’ve helped Aber stock go up I’ve got so much PE . I guess my point is that if I’ve got to spend an hour making one clasp which might break apart even with flexy black CA I’m passing. I’ll spend my time on exhaust grills and fenders and side skirts
Jason, that was a nice bit of inadvertent comedy. When one reaches inside one's drawers for a tool the right diameter. That is golden! I have been wanting one of these for years. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year's!
Looks like an excellent tool, thanks for sharing your thoughts on it.
I do not do enough photo etch work to warrant having one but can see it is well worth it for those who do.
Hi Jason, I have seen these, but have never considered them necessary, until now! I have a really big set of drill bits I have been using for rolling photo etch. I guess I'll have to ask Santa for one! See you next time.
Nice one Jason, I'm with you - its one of those tools that is so useful when working with etch, it saves so much time. I think worth every penny (or pound). Cheers Bob
Absolutely
Hey Jason. I need some prayer. My dog scooby is doing good
On my to buy list next payday
Damn shame the Small Shop retired
dod not know that
Just a quick question. On the website there are two versions of this tool it seems. The deluxe version that you have which only has steel rollers and retails for around £60 and a standard version with both steel and wood rollers which is half the price. Do you know what the difference is please? Importantly do they both have the same back ie that flexible reverse mat that allows you to roll cylinders?
Hi Gordon, the wooden rollers are an extension pack you don’t get the base with them you need to buy the steel roller version to get the base.
I’m torn on the whole PE thing. I question whether the cost capitalization is worth the ultimate benefit. Most PE is there to purportedly provide more realism to the piece. Bent fenders etc.. However, if one studies enough historical photos one will see that fenders and side skirts are more likely to be MISSING rather than bent. Resin is cheaper and gives a decent amount of detail. Then there’s the prep and the time making PE and the tooling. Most lay persons would not even notice that a model has PE and not its original mold. Modelers know, but that’s just it. Only we do. I’ve made enough scratch add ons and resin to well nigh equal a decent set of Voyager. Not against it, just call me a skeptic.
PE makes all the difference with exhaust grills (precision lazor cut) from Aber to aluminum gun barrels. Say goodbye to plastic seam lines.
I'm still learning how to bend parts.
@@kenlang5268 I agree totally on exhausts and I always use metal barrels . I’ve helped Aber stock go up I’ve got so much PE . I guess my point is that if I’ve got to spend an hour making one clasp which might break apart even with flexy black CA I’m passing. I’ll spend my time on exhaust grills and fenders and side skirts
Out of business.
Retired. Better than not having enough business