Photo Etching at Home- Professional Tools for Modelers
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- čas přidán 27. 08. 2024
- Super detailing models often involves adding photo etched parts and with a little knowledge and a bit of guidance you’ll soon be making your very own awesome detailed models with photo etched parts right at home!
Photo etching often scares people away because of the corrosive chemicals involved however with the method I use to create these awesome details I eliminate the corrosive photo developer and replace it with a safe washing detergent called Washing Soda.
I also show another way to make the etchant using a combination of 2 parts Hydrogen Peroxide and 1 part Hydrochloric Acid. We can’t completely avoid using corrosive chemicals however by using this particular recipe you won’t need to use Ferric Chloride which can be problematic in the way it stains everything it comes into contact with.
You can use photo etching for all sorts of projects whether you’re building a model train, a model diorama, a scale house or and architectural model, you could be building wargaiming terrain and even a dolls house… Anything really, and it’s not limited to any particular scale either. I’m modeling in HO scale and this technique of etching is perfect for making very fine details like security doors and mesh stairs as well as man hole covers.
Don’t forget that if you’re enjoying the videos and you’d like to help support the channel you can do a couple of thing, you can check out my patreon page and support me there or you can go check out my store where I have some t-shirts for sale.
/ luketowan
teespring.com/...
Thanks for letting me firmly decide I'll never try to photo-etch my self.
YES
👍🏽
😂 sometimes videos like this have that effect. And even so it serves its purpose. There are enough companies offering etching services so making the art work will be the big job. That’s where the real work goes into.
there are simpler ways to do this
@@abelesteban8154 did it? I didnt want to pay because I hacked my own and password had too many digits
It's as easy as 1, 2, 3!... 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20! 😀 someday I'll try this myself. Thanks for laying the process all out!
This is one of the more obscure ones, so I don't blame you. I'd rather do a whole soccer pitch in scenic glue and static grass!
Top work from Luke, as always!
lol no worries mate... Don't forget step 21.... the most important step 😀
great comment ! I too would love to try this, got back into modelling after ...30 plus years.. omg.. so much more detail can be had now and thanks to people like Luke and sites like this we can always learn something new.
I'm not even a modeler I just love these videos
thanks 😀
I'm thinking about getting back into the model railroading hobby after many, many years away. As I read websites and watch videos, I am stunned and invigorated by the breadth, depth, and technical advances of this hobby. I vaguely remember as a kid, using green food coloring to dye sawdust "grass." It wasn't realistic. Now we have static grass and well built and photographed models can barely be distinguished from the real thing. Now we have DCC and sophisticated software to drive it. We can learn electronics and control many sophisticated actions with Arduino and such, a creative world being driven by young makers such as Ladyada from Adafruit. Most of us can now easily lay our own precision trackwork. We can employ DIY tools such as 3-D printers, laser cutters, (and even photo etching if we can muster the Patience Of Luke). Even resin 3-D printers are affordable to most of us. The advances are significant and are growing exponentially. I've set aside a year to bring myself up to date before I lift a finger and start building. At 72, may my doomsday clock tick slowly enough for me to enjoy this hobby for many years. Thank you Luke for your contribution to this hobby.
Luke, can you please just do every tutorial that's on CZcams? Clear, understandable and entertaining lessons with great production quality! Thank you so much, signed up as a Pateron.
What a great video! Seems a bit daunting to a lot of people but really if you did a video on getting your car started think of all the steps. Find keys, unlock door, open door, get in, put key in ignition, put right foot on brake, press down on brake while turning key, do up seat belt, adjust mirrors, starting to sound complicated this is above me!
Purchased this etching kit years ago... Works as advertised! Another tip, it helps to heat the acid a little bit, which aids the etching process. I use a fish tank heater submerged in the etching tank to heat it. Also, you can expose the photo resist in direct sunlight, for a much shorter exposure time. Aside from that, great video tutorial Luke!
awesome idea with the fish tank heater! Glad you enjoyed the video 😀 I haven't tried exposing in sunlight yet, every time I do some etching it's always quite late in the day...
It really was involved but the results spoke heaps of perfection.
EASY! damn you got like 300 steps lolz, thank you for making the video! much much appreciate it mate!
lol yeah quite a lot of steps but it becomes second nature after doing it a few times 😀
It's 2:30 in the morning and I don't even do anything model related, these videos are just so captivating. Keep up the great work man!
Brilliant as always!
Hey also that’s the laundry stuff I use to clean my jewellery - I put a sheet of alfoil into a bowl with hot water and Lectric wash soda then drop jewellery onto it. Agitate it with a wooden spoon as after a few minutes every nook and cranny is clean!!! It doesn’t damage gold silver or any precious stones :)
Wow I remember etching PCB boards in electronics class, never thought you call pull something like this! Amazing! Great vid and great job!
lol, it's a very similar process to etching PCB, glad you liked it 😀
I don’t know if anyone will see this, but just an FYI if you want to try this - I decided to use a 100w equivalent LED bulb because I thought it might still work for exposure, but it’s actually INCREDIBLY slow! I’m literally waiting for my parts to be exposed now, and I’ve been flipping back and forth in 12 minute increments for the past hour and a half. I used to have regular tungsten photoflood bulbs, and I feel that those would probably do a lot better here. Basically, don’t go with LED bulbs unless you’re okay with waiting a long time.
A very detailed and educational tutorial. The results are quite stunning.
thanks mate 😀
Hey Luke can u make a rain based realistic scenery I would LOVE to see that. Another idea is to make them modular by adding dowel pins into them and make them sorta like each other so that you can just snap them together
:Edit Luke 13 likes in just a hour please do this people want it. I know you have a lot on your back and it’s hard to do it all but if you have the time and ONLY if you have the time I want you to do that
Ryan James I was the 13th like, and I liked right now. Something's fishy.
Clax fishy about what?
Ryan James You wrote that before I liked. You said there were 13 likes when there wasn't.
Clax u must have miss read me I had 6 or 7 likes at the time idk what for sure and I said if I get 13 likes in just one hour then people want It bad
Ryan James "13 likes in just a hour please do this people want it."
You're implying that you got 13 likes in an hour, meaning that people would like to see it. The thing is, you never got 13 likes on an hour.
If this had been the first photo-etching video I had watched, I never would have attempted it. Incredible patience you must have and deep pockets. The 1st video I watched did the whole process in a fraction of the time, with cheap readily available (and safer) materials and equally impressive results.
If you photo-etch for your hobby or business, then I'm sure you must do it a different way without buying expensive kits.
A good, well made video and instructions but better ways to do this.
Link the other video then
That would be bad etiquette @@jacobhenry5554
This level of commitment to miniature scenes is astounding! I applaud you!! 👍👏
All I can say is that you have a *lot* more patience than I do, Luke. Another great tutorial, by the way. It's taught me to leave the photo etching to the pros.
ha ha 😀 Yeah it's not for everyone but if you ever want to try it one day you'll have a good guide to help you 😀
"Leave it to the pros"? How do you think they became pros? By practice, success & failures. Getting back into modeling after 15 years and I made a lot of good, basic models; but my biggest failure was assembling figures so the seams of the various parts wouldn't show. The other was painting the figures which is why I never had figures with an aircraft or armor. Between these 2 problems, my figures were so bad that they couldn't be used as zombies! But CZcams videos (like this one) gives me a different perspective on how to do things. Don't think outside of the box.....don't even use a box!
That's basically what I do for PCB production at home. It's quite involved but I have 0.1 mm resolution with this technique. However I recommend using ferric chloride for etching as HCl+H2O2 tend to make small bubbles which can lift the photoresist around the edges. Ferric chloride works with brass too.
By far the best tutorial I've seen on this process. Thank you!
man! that is awesome! when the film started to come off, so cool! I have a tone of ideas for this process, but it's so complicated I'll have to rewatch this on a bunch of times! thank you
WOW, that was a great tute on photo etching. I knew nothing about it but now I know a basic how its done. Very interesting and informative.
thanks mate, glad you enjoyed watching 😀
Back when Radio Shack was still Radio Shack, they used to sell PCB etching kits that were more or less exactly what Micro-Mark sells. I remember making a pretty good (for the time) SPS-40 radar unit for a model ship using nothing but that photo etch set and a sharpie pen.
You sir, are an expert. You make this unbelievably difficult work, look quite easy. Thank you for sharing your talents with us ... God Bless
FYI, when using HCL and HO, there is no need to make a new batch for each project, I used to use that for making circuit boards. I don't recall the chemical process, but it keeps working for a lot of cycles, at least with copper.
I believe most of these noodles commenting on how difficult and involved this is, as well as how after watching they now have no issue with the prices of the store bought etches, should get their checkbooks out for those of us who took notes...
You’re the man, this was ridiculously thorough and well put together. You should make a tutorial on making tutorials brotha! I’ll see you on patreon once I can start and gather some tools and such
Wow no wonder these things are so expensive.. So much work.
true 😀 they look awesome though
Wow! This has been more useful than I can say! Mostly because NOW I can see how the Micro Mark Photo Etching system works ... I mean REALLY works! Thanks, mate, for this super video. Now - for sure - I'll be ordering this kit! Good on ya!
Awesome John, hope you enjoy creating some photo etched parts 😀
Man you are so clever, I watch your videos because it is good, so far the best I have seen on CZcams!!!
My thanks for this instructive video. It was essential to my success. I tried two competing products with abysmal results despite repeated attempts. The Micro-Mark material brought beautiful results but only b/c of this video. A couple of suggestions/refinements. 1. I watched the video numerous times and stopped it frequently to make detailed notes. Even then it took practice to get perfect results; don't get discouraged after early trials. 2. On my photo resist the clear plastic to be removed before applying to the brass was on the inside of the curl. 3. My photo resist absolutely would not "cook" under ordinary light no matter how long exposed. It only "cooked" when exposed to sunlight. Exposure time depends entirely on intensity of sun. Cloudy day, long time. Bright sun, short time. Purplish color of the resist that extends beyond edges of your brass is the determinative of when to end exposure. 4. My experience with dipping in washing soda after cooking was for me the far most difficult part of the entire process. To get proper etching it is ESSENTIAL to make sure the resist is entirely removed from areas to be etched. This, for me, was very, very touchy on areas which are very tiny. Failure to remove the resist entirely from those areas results in failure to etch. You have to make sure that the brass to be etched is entirely free of the resist; that can be challenging in tiny areas. But if you leave the cooked piece in the washing soda too long, the whole surface of the resist will start to be dissolved. 5.When you remove from the washing soda I found that a fairly vigorous rubbing with dry paper towel was best way to remove unwanted resist. The part that you want to remain is remarkably resistant to being rubbed off. Only experience will bring best results. 6. After putting the brass in the etchant for a while you can remove and closely inspect to see if those tiny areas are being etched. If not, rinse in water, soak again in washing soda, remove, rinse, rub and return to etchant.
Micro-Mark sells what it calls "developer/stripper." I didn't use that; maybe it is less touchy than washing soda. Finally, the 3200 grit polishing cloth is available in larger sheets from Micro Mesh Corp on the Web, along with numerous other grits for prepping the surface of brass to get different degrees of polish.
Hi Luke! Seen your tutorial and I can say, after doing photo etching for many years, I could not single out a flaw in your method.
Just let me throw a couple of suggestions:
If you use thin enough material, you can isolate the back of the plate (e.g. adhesive tape or spray paint) and expose only 1 side, saving in time and materials.
If you have access to a laser printer with a reasonably straight paper path, you can attach the foil to a normal sheet of paper with tape, print directly on the metal and then etch (the toner will act as resist). You need to print in the paper first, to know where to place the metal foil. This is my lazy method :-)
awesome Jose 😀 I don't have a laser printer but it is something I was thinking of buying and trying because there is a good one on sale for $50 at the office supply store. I'll also try the etch from one side as well, I saw a video on CZcams doing a similar technique. Cheers 😀
Luke Towan $50? I paid nearly $1,200 for my HP Laserjet 5MP 22 years ago.
Can I use a UV lamp to develop? ie does it work on ths type of resist film ?
This was really cool to watch. Thank you for showing how this is done. I didn't realize that a kit was available to do this at home. Great video.
This video kills two birds with one stone - it's very informative and instructive AND it's mesmerizing and entertaining to watch. Thanks, Luke!
Cool video that showcases the procedure really well.
the aviation industry is using a smiliar method to etch the fuselage plates of aircraft to reduce the weight.
Nice tutorial.
We were using the same process to etch circuit boards in the 80s.
This video was so cool. Never seen anyone do something like this before. Luke, you never fail to amaze me. Keep up the great work!!
no worries Brad 😀 Glad you liked it
Very informative tutorial! I did some etching in college but the process wasn't as well explained (i ended up just using a painted on resist).
One tip I have from my experience is to attach the metal to the bottom of a foam board and let it float in the solution. This lets the dissolving particles fall away and not block the metal from the solution. However this is really only helpful for when you want to etch in details, not cut out whole pieces.
Keep up the good work!
My hands dont shake too much but I can tell that I would destroy the fragile pieces in a heartbeat after being etched. One needs surgeons or clock makers hands with incredible patience for this type of work. Watching all your fascinating videos are evoking the feel of revolutionazing railroad modeling seen only here on your channel. Presented very nicely in a calm, relaxing manner with great music, perfect video guidance and editing. Keep it up Luke. Thanks for your tutorials. Best wishes in the new year!
Having a working knowledge of the materials is only achieved by doing it..... learning the
process isn't as tough but knowing how your materials should look/feel during each step
is what I liked best about your teaching of this.....lol, I'm not even considering doing any
of this but I watched another of your videos & I liked your style of teaching stuff.....
Well done & should I ever need to learn it, I'll be back!!
You are seriously talented mate. This is just brilliant.
thanks John 😀
0:39 On the note of "Something Similar" Here are Some Good Options: (I'd love to hear of more in the comments below)
- Inkscape (Free and Open Source, Optimized for "Vector Graphics" )
- Krita (More Art Oriented, but Can do Vector Graphics as Well)
Thank U for showing that Open Source option💯✅👏👏👏
I have no trains, or any modelling of any sort. But your videos are so interesting, and have so much attention to detail! It reminds me to slow down when I do DIY finishing jobs (like drywall mudding, etc) or even during my normal day job! Keep it up!
thanks mate, glad you're enjoying the videos 😀
Thanks Luke for sharing. I'm without words...Ciao from Italy
thanks Eddie 😀
Thanks Luke, always well worth watching you
thanks Val
Great tutorial, very detailed and easy to follow!
thanks mate 😀
Very interesting, but very involved. Don't think I would have the patience for this, but I loved watching how it's done.
Fantastic demo - I did not understand the process at all prior to this.
Cool, glad it was useful for you
Excellent tutorial as always Luke. I was always a bit weary of doing photo etching, but with your tutorial it looks like a manageable weekend project. The results look professional and I don't see much difference to commercial photo etch parts. Again your video is clear and of the highest possible production quality.
I am mostly interested in delicate fences (e. g. a wrought iron fence for a graveyard) and maybe shields and weapons with a proper thickness in 1:48 scale. I may experiment with this technique in the future (I first have to build the static grass applicator and foam cutter you featured :P)
Thank you for all the efforts you go to, I enjoy your videos a lot and will try to spread the word.
No worries mate 😉 etching used to make me a little nervous as well mainly because I wasn't sure about the chemicals but once you have a go at doing a few etches it becomes pretty easy. It can be hard to etch thicker material though although fences should be ok in 1:48 scale. The thicker the material is the harder it becomes to retain the fine detail because the copper or brass needs to sit in the acid for longer periods and it starts to undercut and creep inwards... if that makes sense 😀
it's magic! no other word for it, i'm speechless. very good job!
It's a very involved and detailed process isn't it - I don't think I would attempt this at home, although you did a great job!
yeah it's not everyone's cup of tea 😀 glad you enjoyed the video
I am looking to get a Laser printer for other projects, Have you tried using a laser printer with a laser transparency sheet?
also, can you do more than one sheet of metal at a time in the etch tank?
One of the best instructional videos. Excellent quality and great content-wise. I learned a lot. I love the entire channel and really appreciate it for its professionalism.
It is 2am in the UK and was just about to go to bed, sleep can wait.
lol well I hope you had some sweet dreams 😀
He's got a hypnotic voice, hasn't he?
What a great tutorial one of the best I've seen on CZcams keep up the great work
Exceptionally good video - most amateurs spend the first 10 minutes on the story of their life and what they are going to do: but you deserve a Nobel Prize for clarity and lack of self-indulgent BS (and lame jokes). Congratulations!
Thanks for showing us this info. I have been using feric chloride but now that I know how to mix the HCl and hydrogen peroxide it will be a lot cheaper for me to do the job.
Another cool video!
This process is quite similar to what we use in the semi-conductor industry making computer chips. The operators work under yellow lights to prevent exposure of the film.
Luke, thank you for making this video on photo etching. I recently purchased MicroMark's photo etching kit and was a little hesitant to start working with it. The instructions are a little sketchy and your video cleared any questions I had. Your entire series is excellent. Just sorry I'm too broke at the time to support you. Hopefully that will change shortly. Again, thank you.
This was very therapeutic to watch! Thanks mate
It looks amazing but the process of it is definitely not my cup of tea. Great work once again!
Bandit Darville idk I kind of like this also your first congrats
Bandit Darville and how did u upload this comment 9 hours ago the vid came out 30 sec ago did u just change your clock?
www.patreon.com/luketowan/posts ;)
Bandit Darville oh thanks
Cool tutorial, thank you.
So impressive! Great demonstration. Now I know NOTHING I have ever done can be called meticulous or technical!
I started to fall in love making these models :).
yeah it can be really fun and addictive 😀
I must strongly disagree with you on the overhead projector transparencies not working, we used these countless of times at work for electronics manufacturing where feature sizes are significantly smaller. You got to use the right type of transparency with the right type of printer though. What worked well for us was using the office Xerox machine with quality set to the highest and laser printer transparencies. Loads of people have been using inkjet transparencies for this purpose, so don't disregard them because they don't work for you. But one thing I must point out, the beginners mistake is not flipping the image, you have to put the toner/ink side down so the light can't diffuse through the plastic. Just my two cents on this one.
your craftsmanship blows me away every time. not even interested in models or dioramas =)
I remember doing this in school in the 80s, only with copper printed circuit boards.
Thank you for this great starting point to look into the technique. I want to get into it for e few project next year and this was perfect to find out what I need to look further into before spending any money..
This is basically how PCBs are made. You can use photosensitive lacquer spray too instead of that thin film layer if it's more available at your region.
Its been a while watching your videos. And it was COOL....
One of my childhood dreams.
And we can call you: The Masterpiecer
You have great ideas and thank you for all the techniques you illustrate.
This was awesome Luke, I have always wanted to try to do my own photo etch but was never sure how to do it. Thanks for making this vid.
cool, good luck etching 😀 It's a lot of fun when you iron out the kinks and find a good system that works for you
The epitome of patience. Goodness.
This is the first time iv seen this done, this has to be a must for every kit builder! I'm definitely not away to look into getting this kit for myself as spend a fair packet on extra PE parts for my kits mostly every kit I do know has PE on it! If it don't come with it iv always got spare sheets of mesh for grills and using a lighter over the parts takes the spring out the part and it becomes so easy just like a lead substance the way you can fold and press shape it in all tight grooves once its had a flame over it for a second two what a difference it makes to fitting pE Flawlessly! I have to get this DIY etch kit for myself
Hi Luke,
Great tutorial, I guess this is why these photoetched are so expensive...
Many thanks...
John...
I love my models but this is on another level
lol, it's a bit of a process but the end result is pretty good 😀
Wow, you have incredible amounts of patience!
taking it to the next level
The best way to perfectly align both sides of the mask. Make holes in the centres of each cross with needle pin. Lay down prints on plane piece of styrofoam and stick thin steel pins in the holes made before, fixing both sides together perfectly aligned. You don't need to visually align pieces and can't shift anything by applying sticky tape to fix sides together.
This was a very informative tutorial and I learned quite a lot from it. You certainly took the mystery out of making your own photo etch parts. Thanks for sharing this.
thanks John, glad you liked it 😀
Love your work my friend and I'm really looking forward giving this a go myself especially with such detailed tutorials from you Luke helps us begginers a great chance to get it right thanks brother keep up the killer work
You have admirable patient and incredible skills. Great work and amazing tutorial Luke!
Hey Luke....thanks a gazillion. Been looking at other videos and you basically have to be a bloody alchemist....This explains everything well and the process is easily done at home. Always wondered "How it's made"..hahaha!!!!
Just watched this video for the first time as I too will like to create my own photo-etch detail set. Though, you have been very informative and the step by step video is very helpful. I don’t know if I will be ever able to do such. Keeping fingers crossed as they say never say never in our hobby. Thanks and have a good day!
Dude you are so talented, am glad i found your tutorial, is satisfying to see your videos
Another great video Luke. Thank you for sharing your skills and knowledge. It has helped me be a better builder.
It's very similar to printed circuit board etching process i do myself; the only difference is brass instead of copper laminate, so you can vary some steps;
For example, you don't have to use the photosensitive foil and laminator, instead you can use photosensitive spray(something like Positiv 20) but make sure if the mask has to be in positive or negative.
I don't know if thermal toner transfer will work but you can give it a shot;
Also instead of ferric chloride i guess you can use B327(sodium persulfate).
You can use laser printer for better contrast and clear foil tends to be cheaper than the one dedicated to ink printers.
As for the lamp you can use basically any type of lamp, but it's preferred to use UV wavelength.
If you haven't etched the board yet but aren't satisfied with foil placement(wrinkles, bubbles) you can remove it with sodium hydroxide(be extremely careful!) or acetone.
Ask me if you have any more questions about photo etching
Also, depending on the material being etched, etchant disposal may be entirely unnecessary. Bath maintenance is trivial, and etchant life can at the very least be extended dramatically.
jimlaurwilliams.org/projects/seychellePaper/index.html
Of course, bath temperature, workholding angles and sparging uniformity are all things that could be addressed to make etching faster and more controllable.
Actually its quite simple, then goes into a crazy detailed steps... lol awesome job by the way
Wow, great video as always. You make it look so simple but this is one that I may leave to someone else!
Great video and what patience the boy has, but its not for meto much bother but what a genius who ever thought about etching and how did they work it out in tbe first place.
Instead of shaking the container to agitate you can use a cheap pump from a fish tank that is used to create bubbles and you can control the pressure.
7:22 That's 180 degree rotation, if you rotated it 90 degrees you couldn't get it back in. ;) I imagine you're doing this because your laminator only has a heater on one side. In all seriousness you've done an excellent job of illustrating a difficult and time consuming process and your results are impeccable when you consider all the manual labour involved. Bravo to you sir! I've worked in and around this process for decades industrially and have seen many professionals not achieve your results. Before laser printers we had to draw everything in ink on vellum and send out for film and then we'd have to opaque the thin spots when the film came back, everything else was the same. Before photoresist came in sheets which is even before my time you had liquid photoresist which would have been crazy hard to work with but I'm sure not for you, some circuit board etching kits still use this process. Count me as a new subscriber!
thanks Brian, really appreciate your compliment especially considering you work professionally in the industry. I'm looking forward to the day I can buy a good consumer laser cutter that I can use in the home and achieve good detail, I've been doing a bit of looking around at laser printers but the affordable ones don't cut copper or brass as far as I can tell and the ones that do cost a small fortune! One day 😀 Thanks for subscribing
Lasers are tricky with reflective materials. You could use the laser to expose the photoresist, I'm sure some kind of simple pin registration system could be added to register the second side. That would cut down a few steps and the laser wouldn't need to be a very high power and it could run quickly as you are only using it for exposure.
This is a very similar process to PCB etching. Synthetic Vellum is often used as a printing medium in that hobby, I imagine it would work well here, and save quite a bit of money over buying proprietary sheets.
yeah I'm sure many of the techniques used in PCB etching could be used for this as well.
That was very involved and certainly way above my head. I admire your work very much and the video reinforces this x2
I really really love your work Luke! Its so inspirational!
First video I've seen from this channel/genre and I find it incredibly relaxing to watch. Subbed. Thanks for the great content!
thanks heaps Jordan 😀 Glad you liked it
Now I am gladly paying the money it takes not to do that stuff myself :-)
Thx for sharing btw!
Very educational :-)
my thinking also. extreme painstaking process and seems expensive, no thanks.
Very interesting as always, but I'm not keen on the computer design stuff, never mind the chemicals!
It is an extremely tedious process, but it can be done very cheaply. 90% of the contents of that kit are unnecessary, and the Peroxide-Hydrochloric Acid etchant solution is reusable. The only parts that are actually consumed in the process are the printing medium (cheap or expensive depending on what you decide to use), the dry-film photoresist ($10 USD for a 1.5 square meter roll), and the metal itself.
yeah with the right knowledge you can do this very cheaply, the micromark kit lays it out for you so most of the guess work is taken out but once you have a good understanding of how it all works it's very cheap. But yeah the chemicals turn a lot of people away, just need to take your time and wear safety protection.
Fantastic work, man...
Thanks mate 😀
It also helps to heat up the etching solution. For every 30°C you heat it, the reaction speed will double! (Don't go overboard with this, breathing in hydrochloric acid is no fun at all)
what a painstaking process but it sure pays off in the end, seems doing a big batch in one go would be the way to go
yeah definitely... it's something you set up for a few hours and do as much as you can.
Very good instructional video, Thank You.
Very interesting. Also nice to see short, clean finger nails. Some are not bothered.