That damn green spring on brakes almost got me a couple times. It actually hit my glasses one time when it went flying. But i figured out if you take a pair of needle nose vice grips and clamp over the bottom part if it pops off of your spring tool it can't go anywhere
Thank you for this video and the Parts Tractor video displaying the teardown of the brake system. These were the most informative videos and helped us so much as we rebuilt my father-inlaws brakes on his 8N. We really appreciate the time and effort you put in to producing such well videotaped and edited episodes. The clarity of the explanation and images made our rebuild much easier than it could've been. Absolute legend!
your a life saver, i had alot of play in the right side axle spline and cut copper sheet to 3/8x 1 1/4" and stuck the shims on the buttom grove with tacky greese and it took out all the slop.i need to recheck and tighten, thanks friend!😉😊
Great seeing more and more support for these old tractors. I not only want to get myself one for myself for a restoration project, but have been researching what's needed for general maintenance and service of my good friends' 1947 at their weekend home in central WA. If I could make one suggestion though, when you want to repair and clean out threads, unless they're absolutely shot and you need to drill and tap a new hole entirely, there are thread chaser sets that with a little bit of oil for lubricant work a miracle. They clean and actually re-form damaged threads rather than cutting material away like a tap will. After spending ten years as a mechanic in the military, plus always working on my 34 year old truck and a mile long list of old equipment, a thread chaser set is worth EVERY penny for a quality one.
this video came at the perfect time for me, when I took the rear brakes apart on my tractor there wasn't anything but black mush and grime where the seals were supposed to be. I didn't even know what they were supposed to look like as there was nothing left.
No need for an epic battle with the machine screws that hold the drums on. Just drill the heads off. Theyre super soft and sacrificial IMHO. You spend more time thinking about getting them off than just drilling them. Just my .02 however.
I am just rebuilding a Ford 351M that I am restroking to 400 (or maybe 444 if I buy the TMeyers kit), 7/16" Fine thread in a number of places. Had a hard time finding some locally for the bellhousing to use on my engine stand. I might even try to swap it into an 8n, I like the GM 4.3L V6 swap since torquey more modern engine than the flatheads or 302W but would love to try a ford made solution.
I am so glad I found this video, been putting off this job since I inherited the tractor, but I would really like brakes lol. I saw at the end you setting up the pedals, do you need to disconnect them before starting this job? If thats in a different video I couldn't find it. thanks for your help!
Working on the tight brake on right side. Took shoes loose still hard to move up or down when you quit pushing on it stops. Still have the tightness,, looks like it’s binding on the spider it’s right up against it. Could it be not enough shims? Thanks
Good question, I have not run into that before. There are so many variables like production tolerances etc. The more " land of almost fits " parts that you have in there, the higher the chance for issues. Also maybe the hubs are going to far down the tapered splines, they may need shimming
@@ClaremontClassicGarage I thought about shimming that would pull the spider back a little. The little oblong on the dust cover thing the brake end meets up against I’m not sure how that looks when it’s right. Should it go between sticking straight up or horizontal under or over? I also thought about grinding the brake rod a little. Wouldn’t take much. Can’t remember how I did the other side but it operates fine springs right back. I loosend the bolts some on the spider and it freed the brake rod. You can see it when you tighten the bolts it’s scraping the back of the spider. I have a 74 Duster I’d like to send you a pic of. It’s been with us a long time.
I love your videos. You sure know your way around an 8N. I've got a Jubilee torn down prepping for paint and curious what paint is on this 8N and how you applied it? Your paint looks really good. Is it brushed, rattle canned or sprayed. Thank you
You mentioned they changed the axle housing in 1950. Did they change the hub splines too ? I ordered an axle for my 49 and the splines are different. They don't match up to my hub. All the axles I've seen on line look to be the newer type. I don't know if they sent me the wrong axle or if it was defective. If there was a different axle do you know of a source for the older one?
They never changed the splines, and the 50 up axle is backward compatible to all early 8Ns. Unfortunately, the "land of almost fits" has been sending bad parts over. Its an epidemic. Contact who you bought it off, its no good. Best bet is to watch local ads and get a good used one. Or buy a whole scrap 8N and harvest it yourself.
Hi Real Guy garage.. Great video a lots a help.. Can you send link where I can find this brakes brake shoes.. I got same Tractor they need brake job thank you 👍
That damn green spring on brakes almost got me a couple times. It actually hit my glasses one time when it went flying. But i figured out if you take a pair of needle nose vice grips and clamp over the bottom part if it pops off of your spring tool it can't go anywhere
Good idea !
Couldn't find a spring tool local like yours but found one i made work but that green spring is borderline dangerous
Thank you for this video and the Parts Tractor video displaying the teardown of the brake system. These were the most informative videos and helped us so much as we rebuilt my father-inlaws brakes on his 8N. We really appreciate the time and effort you put in to producing such well videotaped and edited episodes. The clarity of the explanation and images made our rebuild much easier than it could've been. Absolute legend!
Glad we could help you. Thanks for watching!
your a life saver, i had alot of play in the right side axle spline and cut copper sheet to 3/8x 1 1/4" and stuck the shims on the buttom grove with tacky greese and it took out all the slop.i need to recheck and tighten, thanks friend!😉😊
My pleasure!
Amazing work. Thank you for this great video. I will probably need to re-watch this dozens of times to get my new breaks on.
Thanks for watching!!!
My Man.... You are one hella'va mechanic and technician.
Thank you.
Great seeing more and more support for these old tractors. I not only want to get myself one for myself for a restoration project, but have been researching what's needed for general maintenance and service of my good friends' 1947 at their weekend home in central WA.
If I could make one suggestion though, when you want to repair and clean out threads, unless they're absolutely shot and you need to drill and tap a new hole entirely, there are thread chaser sets that with a little bit of oil for lubricant work a miracle. They clean and actually re-form damaged threads rather than cutting material away like a tap will. After spending ten years as a mechanic in the military, plus always working on my 34 year old truck and a mile long list of old equipment, a thread chaser set is worth EVERY penny for a quality one.
Thanks, I'll keep my eyes peeled for a set.
Good job well explained
Thanks for watching!
Great workmanship! With your help I hope to be successful in my repairs. Thank you!
Thanks for watching and best of luck!
Thanks for showing this.job well done 👍
Thanks for watching!!!!
I had a fit with those straight screws for the drum, I got some internal hex head of the same size.
They can be a bugger on some tractors.
this video came at the perfect time for me, when I took the rear brakes apart on my tractor there wasn't anything but black mush and grime where the seals were supposed to be. I didn't even know what they were supposed to look like as there was nothing left.
Glad I could help!
This is the video I’ve been waiting for! No video before now actually explained where the cork gasket went with the axle seal. Thank you!
Most welcome!
THANK YOU. THIS is the video I needed to see !!
My pleasure!
"will this ever get another brake job" this might be the first and last 8n brake job in history
No need for an epic battle with the machine screws that hold the drums on. Just drill the heads off. Theyre super soft and sacrificial IMHO. You spend more time thinking about getting them off than just drilling them. Just my .02 however.
agreed, but I don't really have too much trouble with them usually.
I am just rebuilding a Ford 351M that I am restroking to 400 (or maybe 444 if I buy the TMeyers kit), 7/16" Fine thread in a number of places. Had a hard time finding some locally for the bellhousing to use on my engine stand. I might even try to swap it into an 8n, I like the GM 4.3L V6 swap since torquey more modern engine than the flatheads or 302W but would love to try a ford made solution.
excellant
thank you
I didn't realize how much like automotive brakes the 8N brakes really were.
And they actually work!
I am so glad I found this video, been putting off this job since I inherited the tractor, but I would really like brakes lol. I saw at the end you setting up the pedals, do you need to disconnect them before starting this job? If thats in a different video I couldn't find it. thanks for your help!
Watch this video for a better description of the adjustment procedure. czcams.com/video/bTUiP2GAzTs/video.html
@@ClaremontClassicGarage Thanks man, your videos are great
@@jbmountain4991 Thank you, I'm glad they help!
Working on the tight brake on right side. Took shoes loose still hard to move up or down when you quit pushing on it stops. Still have the tightness,, looks like it’s binding on the spider it’s right up against it. Could it be not enough shims? Thanks
Good question, I have not run into that before. There are so many variables like production tolerances etc. The more " land of almost fits " parts that you have in there, the higher the chance for issues. Also maybe the hubs are going to far down the tapered splines, they may need shimming
@@ClaremontClassicGarage I thought about shimming that would pull the spider back a little. The little oblong on the dust cover thing the brake end meets up against I’m not sure how that looks when it’s right. Should it go between sticking straight up or horizontal under or over? I also thought about grinding the brake rod a little. Wouldn’t take much. Can’t remember how I did the other side but it operates fine springs right back. I loosend the bolts some on the spider and it freed the brake rod. You can see it when you tighten the bolts it’s scraping the back of the spider. I have a 74 Duster I’d like to send you a pic of. It’s been with us a long time.
I love your videos. You sure know your way around an 8N. I've got a Jubilee torn down prepping for paint and curious what paint is on this 8N and how you applied it? Your paint looks really good. Is it brushed, rattle canned or sprayed. Thank you
My wife paints them with a 2" sash brush. The paint is Armorcoat Rust Paint from Canadian Tire. Fire Red.
@@ClaremontClassicGarage I'm surprised to hear the paint is brushed on. Sure looks good in your videos. Thanks for the speedy reply.
You mentioned they changed the axle housing in 1950. Did they change the hub splines too ? I ordered an axle for my 49 and the splines are different. They don't match up to my hub. All the axles I've seen on line look to be the newer type. I don't know if they sent me the wrong axle or if it was defective. If there was a different axle do you know of a source for the older one?
They never changed the splines, and the 50 up axle is backward compatible to all early 8Ns. Unfortunately, the "land of almost fits" has been sending bad parts over. Its an epidemic. Contact who you bought it off, its no good. Best bet is to watch local ads and get a good used one. Or buy a whole scrap 8N and harvest it yourself.
Thank you, I have really enjoyed your oarts tractor series. Keep up the good work
@@claytonpritchett5452 Thanks for watching!
Would love some part numbers
Just go on Just8Ns and look it all up. They mostly stick with the original Ford part numbers which eliminates a lot of confusion.
@@ClaremontClassicGarage Thank you.
Hi Real Guy garage.. Great video a lots a help.. Can you send link where I can find this brakes brake shoes.. I got same Tractor they need brake job thank you 👍
You can get them anywhere that sells tractor parts. Just8Ns, Steiner Tractor, Yesterdays Tractors to name a few.
When adjusting the brake drum which direction do you turn the adjustment on both sides of the tractor?
I would be lying if I told you I remembered. I turned it one way and it didn't seem to do anything, so I went the other way and it worked.
Is that "cork" seal the only seal in there? Mine is leaking and haven't taken it apart yet.. want to order parts first
There is an outer seal that is in a steel retainer, if your 8N is a late 50 or newer, it will also have an inner seal
What does the 2in nut that has a lock pin have to be torqued to ?
450ft/lb is the spec.
Ok thanks! Great video by the way👍🏻
I’ve got a 8n I wish u could fix my brakes