Finally, something I can make a constructive comment on! When replacing a ring gear on the flywheel, car, truck, or tractor...Block up the flywheel, supporting it by placing the blocks under the ring gear. Start heating the ring gear with a torch, and very shortly the flywheel will drop of it's own weight. When re-installing, place the ring gear in place on the flywheel, and heat it as before. It will drop into place sooner than you might expect, but keep a hammer handy to make sure it is all the way on. One last thing, clutch mounting bolts are special! They have a shoulder, which is a fine fit to the pressure plate and a counter bore in the flywheel. Using ordinary bolts could well cause a vibration, or in the case of a high performance engine, cataphoric failure.
Andrew, it's really cool that you are learning to repair your own vehicles and things. Dad taught me early on when I showed interest, and I made it my life's work. I'm a retired mechanic & handyman. You would benefit by adding a big slide hammer puller and a rosebud torch tip to your tool arsenal. The puller you can make cheaply, or make a few of various sizes for different jobs. I use them both to push and pull. Remember that when something seems glued together, a single heating and cooling can help it gently separate. I strongly recommend that you purchase repair manuals for anything you work on. They'll tell you about the special stupidity of certain engineers who made their devices non-standard, and will help you NOT break things. I sometimes learned the hard way. We didn't have the sealants we have today way back when, so I used thich wheel bearing grease to seal fiber gaskets. It made it really easy to remove them ten years later when the water pump died again, lemme tell ya. And I always started with the brake adjuster side of the shoes. Put the spring on and angle the shoes to get the adjuster in place, THEN open them up and put them behind the axle. It's much easier fighting springs when the other pieces are all free to move around.
You mentioned in the video about the water in the bell housing and a drain. If you go back to the 17.05 point in the video when you're installing the flywheel there's a little hole on the bottom, those fords come with a cotter pin going from inside outward to help keep that hole from clogging and allowing it to drain. I guess someone had already split the tractor before and didn't put one in there. It's no big deal not having it, but it does actually work. I have a 1948 ford 8n that I'm working on, they are nice and practical little tractors. You're doing a great jod.👍
To Hanna and Dad, great job on the early 8N. I'd love to see the video of the end result. I have a Ford 2N, made during WWII that had steel wheels, no starter, generator or battery because of the war. It has all of those now and is a daily worker on my hobby farm. I also have a Ferguson TO20 that helps the 2N. I gotta tell you, I have never seen such mouse infestation as you had in the clutch area of your 8N. But what a thrill when your engine started puffing smoke and finally roared to life and actually would idle! Great video and thanks for the perseverance to do that work while it was visibly cold weather. Really good to see people keeping the old iron running. Keep up the good work!😊
What a neat project. My neighbor has one of these tractors but he would not sell it to me. It has sat for a long time. I have never done mechanical work like that. I think it is great that you are bring this tractor back from the dead. When I was in the Air Force I worked in maintenance but I was just a painter.
The Throughout Bearing is not to be greased (19:43), if you grease it sand will stick to the grease and wear the bearing/shaft and restrict it's ability to slide. As mention there is a coulter pin in the Bell housing that vibrates as you drive the tractor. this vibration keeps the small hole open. These tractors has end seals that leak, by keeping the hole open it allows oil to drain, saving the clutch from becoming saturated. Was the transmission changed out, the large hole above the starter has been repaired. A nice repair , hard to see any of the damage.
You're bout smart as they come ain't you! All that work and you pulled it together with bolts! If it don't buckle up then you definitely don't force it! Smart man tight there
Good job, Andrew. Hopefully you put some anti-seize on those adjuster threads LOL I forgot that step years ago and hated my life had to tear it apart again glad to see your ambitious he's a great old rigs I have to myself Heather reliable as it is long
That must be the early 8n with the points in the front of the motor. They also had some with the 3 speed not the 4 speed. I used Tractor Supply paint on mine. Very unsatisfied to say the least. Faded fast , even black mold. Good video ! I tried T/S store paint. Goes on sweet but gets moldy all over and won't last.
Very good job on the tractor bro you guys did a really nice job I got to meet that I got a question for you when you was putting on that RTV what was that thing you was using does that help squeeze the RTV out if so can you give me a model number or something or I can get me one I appreciate you bro keep up the good work guys do really good thank you much
I've been splitting and rebuilding tractors most of my life and I do as my grand farther did I use a 4 legged gantry set up along the tractor and use gurder trolley and chain blocks and turn buckles and chain to support each section as its rolled apart and then rolled back together after doing clutches and gearboxes
Those drive tires sure look small. We had one, a Funk modified with a 6 cylinder. Neighbor had a stock 8-N. Both had bigger diameter tires than what yours has.
my father bought an 8n once. we got it running and went home to get the trailer. when we came back the tractor was gone. the woman sold it out from underneath us. never did get repaid for it.
Do not be afraid to learn to torque feel with spanners. Impacts teach you nothing. Also the nuts are called full nuts and the smaller are half nuts. all available in the UK at least. WELL DONE ALL ROUND, A GOOD LEARNING PROJECT.
The flywheel surface was still rough with rust pitting it will wear the clutch plate out prematurely the brake and clutch company I worked for will not give a warrantie on clutches unless the flywheel is machined it is a bit rough I know it is only a tractor not a high performance vehicle but you don't want to be replacing the clutch too soon
I mean if it’s just a showcase tractor what’s the deal? If he was using it full time and starting it and running it often I get it but if it’s just a show piece?? Why bother
Drum brakes aren't as easy as disc brakes for sure, but they aren't that bad. I learned from old time mechanics to put the adjuster and spring together on the shoes, spread them apart, then put on the backing plate. Looks like you're doing a fine job and learning alot. The fortunate part is you don't have any kind of computer control on that tractor. Just mechanics and simple electricity. Did I mention government regs? NOT!
I agree put the adjuster and spring together and spread the shoes onto the backing plate then put the front springs on I started doing brakes in the early 1970s there was more drum brakes around than disc brakes I learnt on drum brakes he did the fitting of the shoes the hardest way possible it should only take 10 minutes to do them per side they are only a mechanical brake system
little late, and probly already a comment somewhere I couldnt find. You put the blue spring and adjuster on those drum brakes first, then the green and black spring. I hope you've already figured that out in the past year since this video.
Nice videos. Just FYI. That ring gear missing teeth is caused by it being converted to 12v. The starter was never designed to spin that fast and hit that hard. It will over time damage the starter and ring gear. Those of you who will argue that yours works great. Stop typing. Give it time. And it won't. And then you'll remember me.
When I replaced my 8N’s ring gear, I drilled the old one, then split it with a chisel. Then I put the flywheel in the freezer for about an hour. While it was cooling, I lay the new ring gear on some bricks (evenly) in my yard, and built a fire over it. Once the ring gear was red hot, it slipped easily onto the cold flywheel. As soon as the ring gear was in place, I cooled it with water. Just like back in the old days of fitting steel tires onto a wooden wagon wheel.
Did you inspect your hubs and make sure they weren't worn out? Those hubs are notorious for being worn out on the shaft and allowing the wheel to move. If it moves any all your seal and brake work you did will be for not. Reason I ask is you said you pulled the one side by hand. Those things should be bolted on there at over 300 ft lbs. Nothing should be coming off by hand. Also did you follow the manual and make sure you're axle roller bearings had the proper amount of preload? The fact I saw just one shim has me thinking somebody has been there before. If you did then disregard.
The drain hole was plugged. Mice love the clutch housing in old tractors - dry and it warms up in the sun. All the junk they bring in and the pee ruins clutch parts.
You have gone to the trouble and expense of buying a new clutch plate & pressure plate, pilot bearing, etc. It still staggers me you didn't machine the flywheel. That alone is close to making your effort pointless.
Yep can cause problems the brake and clutch supplier I worked for would not warrantie a clutch kit unless the flywheel was machined if it did not work properly
Takes a special kind of short bud rider to use an impact on old bolts and an even more special type of helmet wearing window locker to use impact on a remover 🤦🏽♂️🤦🏽♂️🤦🏽♂️
150ft lb from an impact is the same as 150 ft lb from a ratchet. If the bolt was going to break it does not matter wether you use ratchet or impact. Plus broken fasteners can be easily removed with welding a nut so not a big deal.
Finally, something I can make a constructive comment on! When replacing a ring gear on the flywheel, car, truck, or tractor...Block up the flywheel, supporting it by placing the blocks under the ring gear. Start heating the ring gear with a torch, and very shortly the flywheel will drop of it's own weight. When re-installing, place the ring gear in place on the flywheel, and heat it as before. It will drop into place sooner than you might expect, but keep a hammer handy to make sure it is all the way on. One last thing, clutch mounting bolts are special! They have a shoulder, which is a fine fit to the pressure plate and a counter bore in the flywheel. Using ordinary bolts could well cause a vibration, or in the case of a high performance engine, cataphoric failure.
I love the videos you make. I would live to see more on this particular tractor if you still have it. Thanks.
Andrew, it's really cool that you are learning to repair your own vehicles and things. Dad taught me early on when I showed interest, and I made it my life's work. I'm a retired mechanic & handyman.
You would benefit by adding a big slide hammer puller and a rosebud torch tip to your tool arsenal. The puller you can make cheaply, or make a few of various sizes for different jobs. I use them both to push and pull. Remember that when something seems glued together, a single heating and cooling can help it gently separate. I strongly recommend that you purchase repair manuals for anything you work on. They'll tell you about the special stupidity of certain engineers who made their devices non-standard, and will help you NOT break things. I sometimes learned the hard way.
We didn't have the sealants we have today way back when, so I used thich wheel bearing grease to seal fiber gaskets. It made it really easy to remove them ten years later when the water pump died again, lemme tell ya. And I always started with the brake adjuster side of the shoes. Put the spring on and angle the shoes to get the adjuster in place, THEN open them up and put them behind the axle. It's much easier fighting springs when the other pieces are all free to move around.
well done young man you're doing an amazing job, keep them coming.
Love what you are doing you seem very knowledgeable for a young lad and the tractor will look great when completed Best Wishes from England UK
You mentioned in the video about the water in the bell housing and a drain. If you go back to the 17.05 point in the video when you're installing the flywheel there's a little hole on the bottom, those fords come with a cotter pin going from inside outward to help keep that hole from clogging and allowing it to drain. I guess someone had already split the tractor before and didn't put one in there. It's no big deal not having it, but it does actually work. I have a 1948 ford 8n that I'm working on, they are nice and practical little tractors. You're doing a great jod.👍
Great video. Your a hell of a mechanic.
You are a very knowledgeable young man! Thank you for the video 😊
To Hanna and Dad, great job on the early 8N. I'd love to see the video of the end result. I have a Ford 2N, made during WWII that had steel wheels, no starter, generator or battery because of the war. It has all of those now and is a daily worker on my hobby farm. I also have a Ferguson TO20 that helps the 2N. I gotta tell you, I have never seen such mouse infestation as you had in the clutch area of your 8N. But what a thrill when your engine started puffing smoke and finally roared to life and actually would idle! Great video and thanks for the perseverance to do that work while it was visibly cold weather. Really good to see people keeping the old iron running. Keep up the good work!😊
What a neat project. My neighbor has one of these tractors but he would not sell it to me. It has sat for a long time. I have never done mechanical work like that. I think it is great that you are bring this tractor back from the dead. When I was in the Air Force I worked in maintenance but I was just a painter.
I just realized how young you are great job buddy your doin a excellent job .
Fantastic video. Can't wait for the next video.
Good Job Well Done Young Man
10-4 on the keep them coming. Great job how you explain it all. Thanks
The Throughout Bearing is not to be greased (19:43), if you grease it sand will stick to the grease and wear the bearing/shaft and restrict it's ability to slide. As mention there is a coulter pin in the Bell housing that vibrates as you drive the tractor. this vibration keeps the small hole open. These tractors has end seals that leak, by keeping the hole open it allows oil to drain, saving the clutch from becoming saturated. Was the transmission changed out, the large hole above the starter has been repaired. A nice repair , hard to see any of the damage.
Yes, I was wondering the same thing... Kinda neat.
By looking at most of the comments it seems that he don't respond to anyone... But I noticed that as well
Looking really good bud keep up the good work
Great video!
You're bout smart as they come ain't you! All that work and you pulled it together with bolts! If it don't buckle up then you definitely don't force it! Smart man tight there
Good boy!......... A good professor
Looking good 👍
Great video
What a cool track that is
Nice job !!
Looks good, I have a 1947 that needs to be completely redone.
Great job
Love your approach and love you don't ask for subscriptions and thumbs!!!! You got both!
Interesting comment. I did both too
I think we all have that one screwdriver we hammer on. 😂
You are quite the "Craftsman". Where did you get the sealant tube squeezer? Great video!
I have a 52 model my daddy used….the thing is indestructible….starts likes it’s brand new…I mow all summer with it..
Pretty damn good!!!
Good job, Andrew. Hopefully you put some anti-seize on those adjuster threads LOL I forgot that step years ago and hated my life had to tear it apart again glad to see your ambitious he's a great old rigs I have to myself Heather reliable as it is long
Great video, very impressive, this is obviously not your first movie!
Nice work
That must be the early 8n with the points in the front of the motor. They also had some with the 3 speed not the 4 speed. I used Tractor Supply paint on mine. Very unsatisfied to say the least. Faded fast , even black mold. Good video ! I tried T/S store paint. Goes on sweet but gets moldy all over and won't last.
Nice work on that ford tractor!
Thanks, and thanks for watching my other videos. It is cool to try understand the designs the engineers did with no computers.
Very nice contents bro😉
What are your plans with this tractor? I’ll be doing something in-depth with an 8N I just picked up on a trade. Neat tractor with lots of history!
Use heat to remove starter ring gear put flywheel in freezer about a hour or two and heat new ring gear it will fall on
why didnt you reface the flywheel....
Very good job on the tractor bro you guys did a really nice job I got to meet that I got a question for you when you was putting on that RTV what was that thing you was using does that help squeeze the RTV out if so can you give me a model number or something or I can get me one I appreciate you bro keep up the good work guys do really good thank you much
You guys could use a shop. Any plans for one in the future?
I've been splitting and rebuilding tractors most of my life and I do as my grand farther did I use a 4 legged gantry set up along the tractor and use gurder trolley and chain blocks and turn buckles and chain to support each section as its rolled apart and then rolled back together after doing clutches and gearboxes
Sounds like an awesome setup. Hopefully someday I have something similiar!
Those drive tires sure look small. We had one, a Funk modified with a 6 cylinder. Neighbor had a stock 8-N. Both had bigger diameter tires than what yours has.
When taking off or putting on the ring gear you need to heat it up. It expands the ring gear to come off and put on.
Yeah, he did that with the oxy-acetylene torch.
@@barrygordon5223
He didn’t use the torch in removing the old one. 🤷🏼♂️
Very nice work! Did you put out a third video on this tractor? I couldn’t find one.
my father bought an 8n once. we got it running and went home to get the trailer. when we came back the tractor was gone. the woman sold it out from underneath us. never did get repaid for it.
dammit boy 😑
Do not be afraid to learn to torque feel with spanners. Impacts teach you nothing. Also the nuts are called full nuts and the smaller are half nuts. all available in the UK at least. WELL DONE ALL ROUND, A GOOD LEARNING PROJECT.
I can't believe the flywheel was not re-surfaced before installing with a new pressure plate and disc.
Yeah, I definitely would have taken a few thousandths off the flywheel to clean it up. It's all pitted.
My thoughts too but it could be too costly or no local firm available.
The flywheel surface was still rough with rust pitting it will wear the clutch plate out prematurely the brake and clutch company I worked for will not give a warrantie on clutches unless the flywheel is machined it is a bit rough I know it is only a tractor not a high performance vehicle but you don't want to be replacing the clutch too soon
I mean if it’s just a showcase tractor what’s the deal? If he was using it full time and starting it and running it often I get it but if it’s just a show piece?? Why bother
I can't believe he took it to the grinder! 😮
Awesome guys! You're Dad is the G.O.A.T.
How do you remember where all the bolts go?
The blue spring and the adjuster go on first. Then fit it on and put the long springs on.
No grinding of the flywheel?
Should have resurfaced the flywheel I hope it doesn't come back to haunt you .
Heat the ring gear up with a torch and you can knock it off .do the same with the new one just opposite way.
Drum brakes aren't as easy as disc brakes for sure, but they aren't that bad. I learned from old time mechanics to put the adjuster and spring together on the shoes, spread them apart, then put on the backing plate. Looks like you're doing a fine job and learning alot. The fortunate part is you don't have any kind of computer control on that tractor. Just mechanics and simple electricity. Did I mention government regs? NOT!
I agree put the adjuster and spring together and spread the shoes onto the backing plate then put the front springs on I started doing brakes in the early 1970s there was more drum brakes around than disc brakes I learnt on drum brakes he did the fitting of the shoes the hardest way possible it should only take 10 minutes to do them per side they are only a mechanical brake system
@@PeterShaw-lb9lt I also learned from the same mechanic not to tear down both sides of the car at the same time. (If you're a do it your selfer.)
little late, and probly already a comment somewhere I couldnt find.
You put the blue spring and adjuster on those drum brakes first, then the green and black spring.
I hope you've already figured that out in the past year since this video.
What did you do to patch the hole in the top of the clutch housing?
fiberglass layer on inside then jb weld on outside, it should last the next 70 years
Hi I’m having trouble finding part 3 for this. Please.
Nice videos. Just FYI. That ring gear missing teeth is caused by it being converted to 12v. The starter was never designed to spin that fast and hit that hard. It will over time damage the starter and ring gear.
Those of you who will argue that yours works great. Stop typing. Give it time. And it won't. And then you'll remember me.
Interesting, most of my tractors are running 12v batteries with 6v starters, time will tell how they hold up.
@@thesmallenginekid let me see if I can link in a short video by experts who discuss this very topic.
@@thesmallenginekid czcams.com/video/jn7d-KZsIxs/video.htmlsi=GDlvp3Vn0mLTkS1H
❤
Surprised to see one red !
Seal drivers sometimes a pvc pipe or couplings will work
well done, dad don't say much.
Can’t find part 3
The next time you remove a ring gear. Heat it up with a torch red hot. It will fall off it over. Put it back on, it will shrink Tight
When I replaced my 8N’s ring gear, I drilled the old one, then split it with a chisel. Then I put the flywheel in the freezer for about an hour. While it was cooling, I lay the new ring gear on some bricks (evenly) in my yard, and built a fire over it. Once the ring gear was red hot, it slipped easily onto the cold flywheel. As soon as the ring gear was in place, I cooled it with water. Just like back in the old days of fitting steel tires onto a wooden wagon wheel.
I managed to screw mine up and have another on order, machine shop said it was out of round by .020.
I thought always adjusted on bottom?
I love your videos.
One question tho, why don't you show you face more in the camera. Like everyone else does, look into it when you talk.
Thanks !!
Part 3?
Part 3 ?????
The firing order of this engine is 1243 unlike all other four cylinder engines which is 1342 .
Interesting, I did not know that. Im getting ready to install spark plug wires now.
I have a great project for you a 1966 Alis chambers D12 backhoe it's on craigslist
Should change rear engine seal
looks like Ford has better desing on how to change rear axle oil seals then MF35.
The basketball in the background audio? Tell me you didn’t notice.
If you applied heat to the ring gear it would drop off,
Did you inspect your hubs and make sure they weren't worn out? Those hubs are notorious for being worn out on the shaft and allowing the wheel to move. If it moves any all your seal and brake work you did will be for not. Reason I ask is you said you pulled the one side by hand. Those things should be bolted on there at over 300 ft lbs. Nothing should be coming off by hand.
Also did you follow the manual and make sure you're axle roller bearings had the proper amount of preload? The fact I saw just one shim has me thinking somebody has been there before.
If you did then disregard.
a brake spoon
to remove ringear you need heat lots of heat played on the gear itself it will then expand and fall of easily repeat for new gear ok
Boy that is awful inside! No drain in basin?
The drain hole was plugged. Mice love the clutch housing in old tractors - dry and it warms up in the sun. All the junk they bring in and the pee ruins clutch parts.
The next tractor you buy pickup an old Leader.
Think I would have opted for disc brakes.........
To remove a ring gear grind with thin cut off blade until near through. Pound until it splits
Wie wer es mit heiß machen das funktioniert viel besser als mit der Flex
You have gone to the trouble and expense of buying a new clutch plate & pressure plate, pilot bearing, etc.
It still staggers me you didn't machine the flywheel. That alone is close to making your effort pointless.
Yep can cause problems the brake and clutch supplier I worked for would not warrantie a clutch kit unless the flywheel was machined if it did not work properly
Takes a special kind of short bud rider to use an impact on old bolts and an even more special type of helmet wearing window locker to use impact on a remover 🤦🏽♂️🤦🏽♂️🤦🏽♂️
150ft lb from an impact is the same as 150 ft lb from a ratchet. If the bolt was going to break it does not matter wether you use ratchet or impact. Plus broken fasteners can be easily removed with welding a nut so not a big deal.
Read and BELIEVE Romans chapter 10 verse 9
No one cares
I'll keep you in my Prayers
If you haven't figured it out yet, that is a 9N or 2N tractor, not an 8N.
If you check the rear wheels, you'll see it is a very early 8N, made in 1947 when the 2N production was ended.
J'ai.un.tracteur.lcckormik.b450.serie1968.et.laime.beaucoup.svp.jai.besoin.dun.aide.et.pieces.de.rechange.
I don’t think you know what your doing better get some one who knows what their doing
Kind of shows you have complete control of the english language. Go back to school