MINI Cooper Performance Coilover Install - 2002-2006
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- čas přidán 21. 02. 2014
- Step by step how to install coilovers on a MINI Cooper or Cooper S. Save money and have fun by working on your own MINI Cooper! Mechanics eye view. In this video I install H&R Street coilovers - similar process for other brands.
Buy parts and install yourself to save money and have fun by working on your own MINI Cooper!
Passthrough socket set - useful for strut disassembly or sway bar end links. amzn.to/2xLHcty
Buy coilovers here:
2002-2006 Cooper non-S:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C...
2002-2006 Cooper S:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C...
Installation process is identical for any 2002-2006 Cooper R50 or Cooper S R53. Procedure will be similar for other aftermarket shocks/coilovers and newer MINIs
Process is very similar for any year or model of MINI Cooper, Coupe, Roadster, Clubman, Paceman or Countryman.
Performing R50 and R53 MINI repairs in the Seattle area since 2010. :-)
Send me an email at kurt (AT) HAMMONDJP dot COM if I can be of any assistance.
Please ask any questions in the comments section below. If you liked my video, click "Like" and click "Subscribe" for more of my videos. Thanks! Thanks for watching, please share, like and subscribe! Check out all my videos: czcams.com/users/khammo01...
"DIY videos provided for reference/entertainment purposes only. Only work on your car if you have the right tools and are comfortable doing so. If in doubt, consult a professional. Mod MINI is not responsible for any 'mistakes' or 'incidents' arising out of your working on your own vehicle. Have fun and stay safe!" Follow #ModMINI on Twitter to get notified of new video uploads! / modminiyoutube Thanks for watching!
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amzn.com/w/2PKRFN62X0RP8 #modmini #modminiCZcams - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Just wanted to say thanks for posting this video. It helped me a ton in my first adventure in at replacing the struts and mounts on my 2004 Mini (which is becoming quite the project car). Thanks again, great instructions.
Quite the project. But, I don't know about you, but my odometer is reading 235.000. Time for a few more parts. And, lets see if we can reach 250,000
You are my CZcams Hero - everything I mod from pulling the engine to replacing bushings, you've got a truly exceptional step-by-step to fact-check and clarify my Bentley manual. Buy you a beer if I could - thanks!!
Awesome videos! Been watching a few of your vids and must say, I was always a little sceptical about owning one of these new mini's. Mainly as I like to work on my own cars, being in the vw scene for over a decade I've come to know my dubs quite well. Have settled on a vw camper to complete my dub journey.
Seeing your videos has set me at ease with the new mini and am now looking at purchasing my first modern Mini Cooper s. Needles to say I am looking forwards to it, back to my roots as my very first car was a 1983 mini :)
Thanks for the great video. I was just changing x2 leaky front struts with stock standards. Fitted new springs and mounts at the same time. One side went well, really easy, no issues but the other side was a pain as the pinch bolt sheared off during removal, leaving almost all of it inside. Used an angle grinder to cut throught the middle of the bolt from behind the strut, allowing the strut to be removed and then lots of hard work with some colbolt drills to remove the broken bolt. Also spotted a damaged CV boot whilst at it so that was changed at the same time. Keep up the great videos. I'm still running my R53 (in the UK) that I've had from almost new. Its been pretty good so far but there is always another job to do. Valve cover gasket next but I know those bolts are stuck too :-)
My son and I bin working on a 2008 Mini Cooper s with turbo yesterday we took it for drive after ten minutes driving engine would stall and you were not able to accelerate pullover restarted we just made it home new timing chain coils plugs . Thanks for all your videos Martin
watched the whole thing! sure gives me an idea on how to install coilovers on my r53 for the first time! thanks:D
great vids just purchased a r53 myself, I will be back to your channel great stuff.
very good... I enjoy the video so much. Plz make more for Mini
Excellent and informative video, should be in any mini fans video collection.
Thanks for posting !
Thanks!
I enjoy your videos. They have been the best tool so far working on my mini. Now if I can just find a video to get this rain to stop so I can finish my coil overs.
2009 mini cooper S r57
dude, you're the man! Always wondered if you could just use impact to remove the top mounts and just let the springs do their thing. Especially if you were to re-install on a coilover where you can just crank them up after install.
Yup, just point it away from anything you don't want to break.
best quote of the video "wow thats slammed"
was it? The video links covered the last image of the height change.
excellent video!
I just changed my struts thanks to you. The rear bottom not wouldn't budge with my impact even after using a breaker bar. It took me 90 min per rear because I had to inch it out.
Overall it's done and thank you for a great video. I'm gonna get a new impact tomorrow 250ftlb isn't enough.
Did You use penetrating oil?? I’m having trouble right now with my front passenger lower strut bolt. Using breaker bar won’t budge. The whole caliper and disc assembly would start to lift up after a certain point of me trying to loosen it so hard. Like the shock went up. I have a busted spring maybe that’s why there’s no resistance. It’s my 1st time attempting this alone. No friend backup. Lol. I have penetrating oil hopefully soaking in as I post this. Hope it works. It’s a 2002 and I’ve done brakes. And seems like every dam bolt on this car is just seized up. Simple things take 3 dam days.
@@judd0112 the front struts on my r53 came out easily with a midgrade impact. the rears were my problem and yes i presoaked all the large bolts overnight before the job. even the rear bottom strut bolt after greasing the threads went in the same way 1/8th turn at a time-but its done. if I wouldve had a lift it wouldve been easier.
@@ChrisNieves I just borrowed a cordless impact from my buddy and the bolt snapped. Anyone know what kind of bolt it is so I can order one. And any tips on how to get the other 1/2 out. ? Drilling with the ezout kit?
@@judd0112 i think m12x1.5
@@judd0112 i believe m12x1.5 and drilling is about it.
You are Superman mister🤩♥️
I'm looking to ADD a couple of inches for high snow driving conditions to my r53, what would you recommend?
Looks good!
Couldnt see the end results because of the video links you put in, can you remove them??
Bn día¡, muy buen vídeo felicidades¡, desde Guadalajara México gracias,,!, good mornig very nice vidio congratulaciones desde Guadalajara México !,
When can we expect your next project Friend? Haven't seen any videos since the sale of your mini.
Hope all is well with you and yours!
Do you have to put the things under the metal plate on rear on all coil overs
hey just a quick question if you have a minute...what is the likelyhood that you would have to replace that rear upper strut mount ?
What'd you spray on the spring seat at 19:50? Getting ready to do this job for the 4th or 5th time so thought I'd get a quick refresher on the procedure.
Hi again, if i use lowering spring like 1 inch lower, do i need to shave 1 inch on bump stop front and rear? Also , on this video you mentioned to shave an inch on the rear but you removed the bumpstop on the front...just curious why? Thanks again❤
I bought these and should have them installed soon. One thing I've noticed is that there is some controversy on whether the bump stops should be installed up front because the front struts are Bilstein inverted monotubes and have built in bump stops. I confirmed this to be true by calling Turner Motorsports where I bought them. For this installation, discard the oem front bump stops as they are internal on the front struts but DO use them on the rear.
The struts in this video are H&R - some judgement/verification will of course be needed for any brand.
@@ModMINI The struts are H&R branded but are made by Bilstein.
I've been told you should let the springs settle for a couple of days before doing the final height adjustment. What is your opinion ?
Good safety reminder on the use of jack stands. A student of mine lost his father when the family car slipped off the jack.
Yes, they do tend to settle over a couple days. Set them to about a half inch higher than you want the final amount to be. Sorry to hear about the sad but avoidable jack accident.
thank you!!!!
Great vid. I'm considering getting H&R lowering springs to use on my stock struts (can't afford coilovers at the moment). Probably going to buy adjustable lower control arms to make up for the negative camber as well. Any thoughts/recommendations/direction? Many thanks, MOD!
+jedcsh1 I have H&R but pretty much any well engineered part will work. Good luck!
I get lowered cars i dont get lowered minis. Its a struggle enough pulling into gas stations, inching over speed bumps and dips.
Question If I'm going to slam my Mini Cooper r53 or lower it a lot do i need the bump stop or should I keep it whole or half cut. Thanks love the videos very informative.
I guess cut it in half, but be warned, lowering a R53 a lot can cause vibration from right front axle during hard acceleration.
I am lowering my mini with H&R lowering springs which bring down the ride height about an inch and a half. How much of the bump stop do you suggest cutting?
Hi - I would cut the bump stop equal to the amount being lowered, but no more than half of it.
Question, every time you lower or raise or adjust the height on the car do you have to get an alignment? I just change tires and before i was running 195/45r16 and now im running 195/55r16 which is the size that comes from the factory i hear. anyway looks like the wheels are rubbing on the fender flare. I got the megan racing coilovers.
+Frank Nativi generally speaking yes. When you change length of shock, you are affecting all of camber, caster and toe.
Thanks
Ken when I was doing the front me and my friend could not get the bottom of the strut out of the steering knuckle. It literally took about a good 5-10 minutes of solid hammering in the knuckle to get these loose, which, eventually, they came off. Same thing with going back on, no matter how much pressure or fighting with it to get it in/out there was no way, just hammering it. I feel like I'm doing something wrong there. Your tutorial and all the ones online seem to have no problem with these at all.
+Scott Brixey If you have trouble, you can use a cold chisel and a hammer to slightly spread the knuckle at the seam, but be careful as it can shoot out if hit at the wrong angle.
WOW, they actually have "bearings" in them? WOW !!!
Whats the best way to help stuck coilovers? We cannot get the stock ones out after hours of trying
+Rhianna Lansberry Stuck in what way?
Appreciate your videos. I noticed you did not (or I didn't see you) add the bump stop to the front coilover when you were reassembling it (on 19:15). Was that deliberate? Will that need to be cut (like you did for the rear) and installed for the fronts? or is it not needed?
sorry nm. I missed it (on 18:35) - - you did mention no need for a bump stop in the front.
Do you have any suggestions for more affordable struts? I’m just looking for a quieter less bumpy ride, not necessarily ultimate suspension performance. (2003 r53)
Less bumpy? Nothing is less bumpy than your old worn out shocks. The suspension gets softer with age. If you want it to be more confidence-inspiring without being stiff and too sporty, these will make the car feel like new. amzn.to/2Tl1ndv
I just lowered my car, 2004 Mini Cooper s, and I have adjustable rear sway bar links and no matter what I do the sway bar contacts the rear trailing arm before it’s even close to being at the correct perpendicular angle to the floor. Resulting in the rear sway bar being pre loaded and not doing it’s job. Any advice? Not sure if they make swag bars that aren’t as wide so it won’t contact the trailing arm?
Be sure bar is not upside down
I'm confused about something; when replacing the shock, am I supposed to change the spring as well or do I re-use the old spring?
Depends on what you buy. Some kits, you reuse the stock spring, others come with springs.
Hi mod mini I'm looking at getting new struts for my 2004 Mini Cooper s I was looking at the koni brand but would my oem springs be to worn out to put on the new struts? Or should I just go with a coilover?
Springs may sag but don't wear out. If you like the ride height, go with Konis. If you want to adjust that or other stuff, coilovers.
Hey mod mini, do you need to disassemble ball joint or tie rod in order to pull out strut? Or will it have enough play to take off?
It can be done without removing lower ball joint or tie rod end but sometimes a struggle to get the strut in/out of the knuckle.
my rear coil is a bit too stiff for normal daily road usage, thinking of changing "just the rear coil", is that ok ??
Should be fine, but be aware that car will respond differently in the corners. I'd guess you'll have more understeer with a softer rear end.
Thank you very informative. I am lowering my 2012 mini roadster 1.3 inches with lowering springs. I assume the process is very similar to the one in the video. Is an alignment necessary after I lower it?
Hi - pretty much identical process, except you won't have adjustable perches. You may need a spring compressor to put everything back together.
You should get an alignment after lowering. The suspension geometry will have changed which would affect your camber and toe.
thanks for the advice
Thoughts on aftermarket coilover kits. In Australia it's pretty much BMW original or ebay from the USA. Main two ebay suppliers are Godspeed and Megan. Any thoughts on quality etc. [I'm just after a standard replacement].
I have Megan which are a decent budget shock, the Euro Street coilovers I have are quite stiff even on softest setting. Koni is good, as well as Bilstein. I don't know Godspeed. Other viewers, feel free to chime in...
Hi, Would a Coil overs made for an r50, fit an r53? Thank you for the info in advance.
Cheers
They would be identical fitment.
Are the H&R adjustable coil overs the ones you would recommend?
different people have different requirements but the H&R are great coilovers that feel better than stock, not too stiff, and enable lowering the car. They are a good street/light track option.
nice work, whats that tool your using at 15:18 with the allen Key. ratchet with a whole in the middle?
Yeah one of these sets. amzn.to/2xLHcty
Installing coilovers on my 2006 mini one. Having real difficulty separating the steering knuckle from the suspension itself. Anyone got any suggestions?
I think you mean the steering knuckle. Just remove the 18mm bolt and hammer downward with a dead blow hammer. You may need to pry/twist using one or two pry bar to get it out completely. Push the steering knuckle forward while doing so.
Question can you please tell me what size sockets I'll need and where to take off the front I just need to replace the springs. Btw your videos are great and so informative.
13mm, 16mm, 18mm 21mm sockets, 17mm open ended wrench.
@@ModMINI what’s the 21mm?
Just wondering if you could help me to Select my coilovers of my Mini. The issue is my Mini model is R52 Cooper S Convertible and when I look people said that for example the Coilover for 07-13 will fit, however my model is 2008 R52 OLD BODY is not the same as a 2012 or 2013 model car and the shocks are different I think. I saw an R53 Mini Cooper 2004 and the shock are the same , and same old body. When I check on Coilovers for R50/R52/R53 and select my model on eBay, the system said that this will not match my model, I am really confuse and I don't want to waste time in returning some coilovers if they are not the correct one. I will appreciate your help. Thanks!
+Luis A. Mojica I'm not sure if 2nd gen suspension parts will fit. Shop as if you are shopping for a 2002-2006 MINI Cooper.
2004 Mini Cooper S R53 Just changed front struts & mounts and rear shocks. Now I have a creaking sound when turning wheel hard right & hard left coming from strut mount area. I even tried putting old mounts back on to see if that would make a difference, but it didn't. Do you have any idea what it may be?
thebar1985 no, that should be strut mounts. Noise should go away if you swap back to the good parts.
Mod MINI Okay, I will switch back to new mounts and check to see if it fixes the problem. Thank you for your help.
To get to the rear did you have to access anything in the interior of the car by any chance?
Not unless you have adjustable coilovers and want to have the adjustment cables accessible from the inside of the car. In that case, rear seat and two side panels need to come out. You then need to drill holes for the cables to come through - don't forget to prime & paint to avoid any potential rust, and make sure the hole is big enough that the cable doesn't bind when the suspension geometry changes.
Oh kool, you can raise them !!!
Hey Mauricio here, big fan. I followed this and am now with all 4 struts and spring out. Had to cut the front springs, as I could not get the strut bottom from that c clamp without doing it. So as I take the last corner out, front right, I notice the boot over the front velocity joint (?) is thorn . I’ll try to attach a photo. So my question is: this is an 05 S cabrio with 155k miles on it. Not a daily driver, more of a fun car. Should I worry and replace it? Or can it go thorn as is without huge possibilities of major problems? Thanks! Mauricio.
Replace torn cv boot or replace the axle - it will fail eventually.
I just bought some Megan Euro streets any advice ? I'm thinking the process May be a tad faster since I will not have to reuse any parts off the pen struts. is it required to get shorter end links? I see you reused the pen one.
oem**
Just bolt them in and then level out the height at each corner... Make sure tires all have same air pressures and find a good spot on the car to measure that is consistent. Probably fine to reuse end links unless you are taking off a lot of height.
Hi I have been tryin to install my Ksports but the rear lower strut bolt refuses to come out... put penetrating oil on there but still no budge, used impact gun, ratchet and breaker bar... still nothing... any reason why you think?
+Patrick ambroise I guess you are talking about the big 21mm bolt. If you live in a rusty area it could be rusted in place. Bigger breaker bar/cheater pipe and maybe some heat.
Glad I’m not the only one. Every dam bolt on this car is a total nightmare.
I had the same prob 2002 mini. 18mm bolt 4 days I tried penetrating oil breaker bar. Nothing. Same thing next day soak overnight with penetrating oil. Used heat. And friend brought over a cordless impact and bolt snapped instantly. Anyone know what size it was so I can order new one? Or how to get out the rest of it?
What model is your Craftsman Jack? I assume its an aluminum model. Cheers
Scouser Tech It's the full size low profile aluminum jack. The red one. :-)
Model number is 9-50239.
hi, dop you recommend lowering springs? have baught them, instlling next weekend. 30mm i think
They work fine and are better than cutting springs. The main problem is you have no control over height adjustment. If you don't like the height after installing the springs, there is nothing you can do to adjust.
Yes, thats the bad thing about them, but done my research. They say 40mm on minis are horrible. But 30 is the g spot.
Do you recommend i change the shocks too? My car has 117k kms. 70k miles
Great videos helped me immensely. I snapped my pinch bolt and just finished drilling it out and got new strut in but it seems like the hook part of the strut that goes through the slot isn’t all the way down so bolt will bot go through. I thought the strut was all the way down but maybe it wasn’t. Am I missing something?
Top of strut has ridge that sits right on top of the knuckle. Make sure hook is not caught up on one or other side of the gap at back of knuckle
@@ModMINI thanks. This simple swap is giving me the biggest nightmare ever. Snapped pinch bolt. Need I say more. Thanks. For all the videos. Immensely!!!
@@ModMINI I thought the slot was big enough. But maybe it wasn’t. I finally got a chance to go out and get a wedge to widen the gap. Just waiting for it to stop raining and hopefully it will work. Opening it up a little bit more with the wedge that is. There’s a piece of metal that has the tang hook connected to it and it goes around and holds one of the lines the one on the left so I’m hoping that I didn’t have the gap wide enough cause I swore it was completely in. I’ll know in a couple hours. I had connected the end link before I had it bolted in and seated correctly I was thinking that could have held it out of place. Got frustrated and started over and when I pulled the strut out of the hub. It twisted and broke the link. Didn’t know that would happen. I’m probably overthinking this.
Are the crocs necessary for dialing the ride height in? Or can I wear vans?
Vans work for suspension work but I recommend Crocs for multipurpose. They are easy to clean off oil or coolant spills.
Hi there! When changing to coilovers, is it a good idea to have adjustable rear control arms too? If I could avoid buying them that'd be better. But then if its going to handle bad after then i'll have to.
Thanks! Great videos
Not a huge problem unless you are slamming the car, most people don't get them. You'll add a small amount of negative camber. Car won't be harder to drive, it will actually corner better but you'll get slightly more inside tire wear if you drive straight a lot.
Ok so I drive on motorways a fair amount. Any idea how bad the tyre wear will be?
Archie Dennis
It depends on amount of camber, amount of straight line driving, wear rating of tire, etc. All MINI have some negative camber from the factory. You could install and if the negative camber is severe, get the control arms later.
Ok cool i'll do that. Thanks for the info man!
Im looking on getting new shocks just im not sure what brand to get also i don't want it to be bounce, because lately my mini has been bouncing a lot and makes everything rattle just annoying. What do you recommend i don't want to be expense but not to cheap. I saw this Bilstein Touring Class Shocks for $300 the whole set
noel iniguez Koni FSD are the best for OEM style but better quality ride. They are a bit more pricey but worth it. I am not familiar with that particular shock, but cheaper shocks will typically not last as long and the ride quality will be less refined. Having said that, $300 is a great price for the Bilstein brand. Almost too cheap.
Do you know were can i find then on a good price and thank you for your help
noel iniguez I don't know if it is the lowest price but i know Amazon has them for a competitive price: amzn.to/1xeVbml
why do you cut the bump stop? to make it less stiff? or is it so the shocks can travel to absorb the bumps better? or neither? lol
curlyj3sus So it doesn't bottom out. (the second)
what part of Washington you leave im in Battle Ground just north of Vancouver
Erasmus11381 Seattle area.
I'm glad I don't have to pull out the interior to get the rear struts off
So how do they7 ride compared to stock?
Much more comfortable and controlled actually. Very refined compared to the stock.
How wolud you put the bump stop back to stock, just put it on or what, glue it back together...
maki neal Yeah just put the two halves back on the strut- they don't need to be glued or anything.
On the rear with the big 21mm bolt at about 2:21 it has a triangular washer or dust cover. I did not reuse it since it seems the bolt has a washer like head on it. Would i be ok without it or do you recommend me putting it back on.
The cover is to prevent strut damage in the event of a rock or other object hitting it. Probably ok to not put it on but it would be at slightly greater risk of damage from that sort of thing.
+Mod MINI thanks for the heads up! I got all the coilovers in fine except one. The 21mm bolt in the driver side rear took a lot of force to get it tightened. It seems like it may have made a new thread into the trailing arm. I was hearing clunking noise and looks like i may need to tighten the 17mm nut on top of the coilover strut. Now im scared to take that 21mm bolt out. Would i be able to access the top with just unscrewing the two strut mount bolts and stepping down on the rotors ? And hopefully fitting a wrench in there to tighten the top strut nut.
Clunking noise is probably your end links.
Hi Mod Mini
I have lowered my MCS 03 with the H&R springs 30 cm. the car looks so cool but on the 1st and the 2nd gear when I accelerate I feel a vibration from the front axels . I researched a lot in the forums but a lot of people have the same issue and there is no answer for it . Please help !
Sorry for bad English
Best wishes from germany
You are stressing the axles. Try raising the car some
@@ModMINI thinx !
What's the reason in your track videos you never put the car in 6th?
The straight isn't long enough to be in the power band for that gear.
can this be done without power tools?
Sure
Is there any way that I can place the brake and sensor wires at the back without the little holding plate on the coilover, I bought used Bc Racing coilovers, and one rear coil miss that thing, the wires probably can't be loose and hanging by themself
www.esetuning.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/800x/040ec09b1e35df139433887a97daa66f/b/c/bc-racing-br-series-coilovers-mini-cooper-r50-r52-r53-pic1.jpg
+TIBASS1111 Couple of zip ties should do it.
if u lower ur mini by an 1" and u dont cut the bump stop will it affect the drive of the car?
It could bottom out.
and damaging the coilover?
It depends on the strut and if it is designed to operate in that height range.
thanks
Followed your vid to install Bilstein "touring" shocks & struts on my 03 R53. Now I have a pretty constant chattering in the rear end. It was suggested to me that the concave washer should installed reversed than how it was on the OEM shocks and that could be the cause of the noise. Make any sense to you? I put the various components back on the new shocks just as they came off the OEMs. At a loss. Help? Thanks and thanks for the vids. They've been a huge help.
+morgan law Not sure which concave washer you are talking about or that piece of advise. Constant chatter is usually just a loose bolt, most commonly the sway bar end link.
+Mod MINI concave washer is shown on this chart as #13. parts.miniofkennesaw.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=264882&ukey_make=981&ukey_modelRange=533&searchString=shock+absorber
+morgan law I doubt that would cause a noise but certainly worth checking.
+Morgan Law I had the same issue. It turned out i forgot to take the rubber base off the old shocks. It was covered with dirt so I didn't notice.
+kaizokuta Which rubber base are you talking about Kaizokuta? Need to figure this out - it's driving me insane.
I put those on my mini and lower it down and now the spring rub on my tire no matter how I adjust them
Which suspension system would you recommend for a smoother ride?
ukiews Probably the Koni FSD.
And that should not require buying new springs?
ukiews Reuses stock springs.
It's hard to see a good after photo since the video links are in the way.
Car is lower than before :)
Thank You
Now do i really need an extension for the rear upper shock mounting bolts......
We will see in a week from now (impact gun is soooo nice to have though :/)
Friends ---None LoL
Your videos will save me a grip load of money from having to do the giant list of stuff that i have to do to get me ready for this year of driving...
I will when parts come in post a video of how to replace speakers in the R50 coopers..
Its easy enough but confuses people like me who go...where are pics or videos so i dont have to read.
Darxas Novellino No, I just do that to be able to get my power tool on it.
I was having issues with putting te passenger side strut from koni back into the mount...
Read a bunch of people had issues with them due to the paint being to thick among other things. Hopefully it doesn't take me five hours to put my driver side in and my rear shocks back together.
I might have to get a new cv joint on the car lol due to me being pissed off that five hours for not even an hour long job.
Remember patience and happiness helps oh and a little bit of beer to
Thanks for your videos again.
The shop will be putting new ball joints and control arm bushing and housing on for me...
Plus I'll be doing a power steering repair kit review video and kind of a how to
Darxas Novellino I've installed Konis several times and no problems. If it's tight, hammer in a cold chisel or the tip of a pry bar to slightly widen the pinch point. You don't need an extension for rear top shock bolts. I just do it that way so I can get the impact tool on it.
Ok
Wow did not realize that I work a lot better when I am tired and get off work and just want to get things done.
Konis slipped right in. Bolted right up.
Pumpkin colored set up haha
Orange shocks with green springs. Hilarious.
Power steering hoses installed and i will in the morning due to rain make a video on a walk through of it.. And post to nam along with the rest of my car.
Oh and I can say that already without even installing new control arm housings and bushings kit it feels better but it does need the control arms done bad...
Thank You again
Mother of all impacts, lol that is barely a impact in my arsenal
Lost a friend to a car. He was even using jack stands but the problem was he was working on gravel. Always be careful going under your vehicle.
Sorry to hear that and I agree. Never, ever jack up and go under a car on gravel. Put a wheel under the car for extra safety
Are you kidding me the stock strut towers are not strong enough and they go into mushroom shape?
18iser Sadly yes, but there are easy fixes. Here's one: MINI Cooper Fix Mushroomed Strut Towers - 2002-2006 1st Gen
H&Rs right? Those are expensive coilovers. By the way, the before and after shots look the same lol
+Ben Dover They are cheaper than Bilstein, BC, etc, but more expensive than Megan, which is probably the cheapest decent coilover around for the MINI. The After shot is like 2 inches lower. This owner came back about a week later to lift the car a bit because it was rubbing on speed bumps!
What a hottie she must be the owner I take it