hi thanks for sharing. a couple of questions for you. 1) some parts like the highlights and shadows you use the base flesh plus another color. what would you say the mix ratio would be 50/50? 2) are these highlights and shadows very thin with thinners if so what consistency should these be. 3) in the shadow section you also have 2 colors one is a chocolate brown where is one color used over the other? 4) for the hair you say use 2 colors. what do you mean i look forward to hearing back from you.
Hi Rod, thanks for your great questions! 1. yes, ratio for shadows is 50/50 with the 2 colors (& thinned). Highlights - first is 50/50 mix, but 2nd is just off white (goes inside the first highlight & is smaller). 2. yes, you are correct they are thinned to a consistency of 75% thinner (& using a wet pallet, particularly as i was painting 5 figures rather than 1, so needed the mix to last longer). some painters prefer to use small receptacles/bowls like mini plastic cups, empty tablet indented trays, or similar - personal preference really and can depend on the temperature of the room you are painting in as to whether the paint will dry quicker. 3. In the shadow section, the second darker shadow overlaps the first on the inner eyes (not around whole eye) & under chin (not including jaw area). 4. For hair, 2 colors are used for depth/realism rather than one color. The colors will depend on personal preference, such as brown hair, blonde hair, black and so on. Most figures hair would be the darker tone as base hair and lighter for raised details, but can vary depending on how you want the hair to look and how well it is moulded on the figure. I would also add that you might select a different base skin tone depending on where the figure is situated, such as winter scene (lighter tone) or hot/sunny climate (darker tone), but generally you would still use the same ratios with the base color selected. Many thanks 🎨🖌️
The most delicate parts are certainly the eyes. It is very difficult to get an authentic look, not staring like a zombie or "squinting". You can spoil an otherwise really well made figure by not achieving a relistic result of this detail. Every person can judge if a facial expression looks right or just artificial. Some time ago, I made some experiments with selfmade decals in 1:32 for the eye area, but the results were not really satisfying.
Hi, yes, totally agree, the eyes are very important - that’s why it’s better to do them early on so you can correct easily without damaging other facial painting. I have also seen some eye decals, they look slightly like comic eyes close up, so like you said, not really satisfying. The newer & better moulded heads also have different shaped eyes, such as slimmer openings, so would not suit decals…but are enjoyable to create unique expressions & add to the realism. Thanks for your feedback!
Great tutorial. Love how you simplified face painting in 7 steps. Also read your generous detailed response to Rod. It is very helpful as well. Was it a red glaze used in the last step to blend all the colours together? Looking forward to seeing you paint the German infantry figures. Will definitely subscribe as your tutorial is much appreciated. Thank you and best wishes in 2024!
Thanks John, appreciate your positive feedback! You are correct in that you can use a red glaze to blend all (highly diluted). Alternatively, if you are wanting to achieve a more natural tone or feel the almost finished face already has enough red, you can use a diluted beige red (used in both shadows mix 11064) to blend all as a glaze. I have almost finished the 5 German infantry figures - they are a great set to paint & have arranged them in a small vignette. Looking forward to 2024 & creating more builds, dioramas & figures! All the best to you too! Many thanks.
Hi, thanks! It would be very challenging for 1/48 scale, but with a good magnifier you could use the 7 steps but with less detailed eyes (using a black line or mark for them depending on the quality of the moulded face).
Thanks Robert - i chose not to put beards on these faces as they go with the Tamiya figure set that is early in the war & used in a mini diorama set in summer 1940 (see my Painting 1/35 German figures video).
Aw man this really help me alots , thank dude👍
Thanks, glad it helped! 👍😊
Thanks, easy to follow steps much appreciated
Many thanks Roy, glad it helped!
Thank you for sharing this
Many thanks
Very interesting video
Many thanks Jeffery!
Just found your channel and liked what ive seen. Love the music. Have subscribed.
Thanks David, welcome & glad you enjoyed!
Excellent work sir bravo 👍👍
Many thanks!
hi thanks for sharing.
a couple of questions for you.
1) some parts like the highlights and shadows you use the base flesh plus another color. what would you say the mix ratio would be 50/50?
2) are these highlights and shadows very thin with thinners if so what consistency should these be.
3) in the shadow section you also have 2 colors one is a chocolate brown where is one color used over the other?
4) for the hair you say use 2 colors. what do you mean
i look forward to hearing back from you.
Hi Rod, thanks for your great questions!
1. yes, ratio for shadows is 50/50 with the 2 colors (& thinned). Highlights - first is 50/50 mix, but 2nd is just off white (goes inside the first highlight & is smaller).
2. yes, you are correct they are thinned to a consistency of 75% thinner (& using a wet pallet, particularly as i was painting 5 figures rather than 1, so needed the mix to last longer). some painters prefer to use small receptacles/bowls like mini plastic cups, empty tablet indented trays, or similar - personal preference really and can depend on the temperature of the room you are painting in as to whether the paint will dry quicker.
3. In the shadow section, the second darker shadow overlaps the first on the inner eyes (not around whole eye) & under chin (not including jaw area).
4. For hair, 2 colors are used for depth/realism rather than one color. The colors will depend on personal preference, such as brown hair, blonde hair, black and so on. Most figures hair would be the darker tone as base hair and lighter for raised details, but can vary depending on how you want the hair to look and how well it is moulded on the figure.
I would also add that you might select a different base skin tone depending on where the figure is situated, such as winter scene (lighter tone) or hot/sunny climate (darker tone), but generally you would still use the same ratios with the base color selected.
Many thanks 🎨🖌️
The most delicate parts are certainly the eyes. It is very difficult to get an authentic look, not staring like a zombie or "squinting". You can spoil an otherwise really well made figure by not achieving a relistic result of this detail. Every person can judge if a facial expression looks right or just artificial. Some time ago, I made some experiments with selfmade decals in 1:32 for the eye area, but the results were not really satisfying.
Hi, yes, totally agree, the eyes are very important - that’s why it’s better to do them early on so you can correct easily without damaging other facial painting. I have also seen some eye decals, they look slightly like comic eyes close up, so like you said, not really satisfying. The newer & better moulded heads also have different shaped eyes, such as slimmer openings, so would not suit decals…but are enjoyable to create unique expressions & add to the realism. Thanks for your feedback!
Great tutorial. Love how you simplified face painting in 7 steps. Also read your generous detailed response to Rod. It is very helpful as well. Was it a red glaze used in the last step to blend all the colours together? Looking forward to seeing you paint the German infantry figures. Will definitely subscribe as your tutorial is much appreciated. Thank you and best wishes in 2024!
Thanks John, appreciate your positive feedback!
You are correct in that you can use a red glaze to blend all (highly diluted). Alternatively, if you are wanting to achieve a more natural tone or feel the almost finished face already has enough red, you can use a diluted beige red (used in both shadows mix 11064) to blend all as a glaze.
I have almost finished the 5 German infantry figures - they are a great set to paint & have arranged them in a small vignette.
Looking forward to 2024 & creating more builds, dioramas & figures!
All the best to you too! Many thanks.
Is it the same for 1/16?
Yes, but easier to do the eyes. Larger figures & busts are also sometimes done in oil paints.
Very informative tutorial. I would like to ask if I can follow those 7 steps in 1/48 scale figures. Thank you
Hi, thanks! It would be very challenging for 1/48 scale, but with a good magnifier you could use the 7 steps but with less detailed eyes (using a black line or mark for them depending on the quality of the moulded face).
They look good however you say or don't show blending or even putting a beard on any.
Thanks Robert - i chose not to put beards on these faces as they go with the Tamiya figure set that is early in the war & used in a mini diorama set in summer 1940 (see my Painting 1/35 German figures video).