Here are some of the tools that jimthecarguy uses www.amazon.com... How to replace front brakes and rotors on a 2015 Kia Soul .2010 TO 2016 are all the same procedure.
Just changed the front pads and rotors on my 2018 Kia Soul+. Had my 14 year old son help so that he could get some experience with mechanical work. I had him watch your video first as well. I paid $176 for the pads, rotors, silicone, and brake cleaner. The dealer nearby wanted to charge $450. You helped me save $274 today. Thank you! The worst and only difficult part was putting the pads into the clips or whatever you call those thin metal pieces. Everything else went smoothly. The screws came out without persuasion but the rotors needed a heavy hammer.
Thank you SO MUCH Jim! You explain the process so thoroughly well that after watching this last night, I finally felt confident to change my brakes/rotors on my 16 myself. I am happy to say, followed this step by step and worked perfectly! Greetings from Rockledge, FL
You forgot to reinstall the springs on the brake pads before you put the caliper on, or you forgot to mention that you did it. Second thing nobody has mentioned that there are tabs that keep the brake pads from coming out of the shims between the mounting bracket and the brake pad.
Don't forget to use red threat lock like the previous owner of my van did he used it on the wheel bearing bolts, brake mounting bracket and rotor. (Those new to this, don't use red it's permanent and nearly impossible to get off, use blue it's not permanent)
Thank you for the great video. Watched the video to see if I needed any special tools to perform the brake swap on my 2015 KIA Soul. Thanks again for the detail and professional job.
Hey, thanks for the professional approach. It's been a couple years since I attempted a brake job so a refresher is good. I watched a few other Soul brake videos and they never mentioned grease, the slider pins or replacing hardware which I know is the way to go.
Great video but I ended up having to take it to a shop anyway. I got the two screws out of the rotor but for the life of me couldn't get it to slide off the hub. I hammered the back a few times with no success
Thank you so much for adding this video! It was very helpful! One question: If behind the rotar is rusted and we have to clean it, can we use brake cleaner to clean it (just like you used to clean the grease off the new rotar) or do we use something else?
I know it's a late reply, but using a small wire brush would be best for this. I would start with brass but use a steel one lightly if the rust is stubborn. They are often sold in a 3 pack at any auto store for only several dollars.
Will definitely keep this on my favorite list when I attempt to do mine. I'm assuming the proper torque specs were also done after the video was completed. But in any case, the manual has the specs and I just needed to see it done aside from taking your queues from the pictures on the manual.
I'm not understanding why you pushed the piston back while it was enclosed. If it was for checking the slide pins, you can just pull on the boot and figure it out that way, can't you?
As in most videos changing brake pads front or rear always seems what is not shown or mentioned that the first thing that should be done is the master cylinder cap should be poped open to relieve the pressure when the caliper piston is being squeezed back inwards so the fluid does not blast everywhere getting all over the car & in this video did not even show the piston being reset flush before pads was iinstalled into the brake caliper?
Hi Jim, I watched the great video you made showing how to replace the pads and rotors on a 2010 Kia Soul . If the rotors have not been damaged any way is there any problem replacing the pads only?
You might want to mention that the caliper sometimes will not fit back on due to the newer thickness of the pads. This is happening to be and now I need to go get a c clamp and pretty that works 😫😟
I will NEVER pay someone to do my brakes EVER!!!!!!! It's that easy. I changed pads and rotors. Saved a ton of money because of crooked people at Les Schwab. Kia soul 2011. Easy peasy lemon squeezy.seems like whatever you did was harder than what I had to do. Different year makes a difference.
I always replace rotors when warped or when they have lost thickness due to grinding. Turning them makes them thinner. Thinner material is more prone to warpage from heat. Just my preference as brakes are one of the most important safety mechanisms on the vehicle.
Not necessary unless you open the brake system ie: remove the caliper from the brake line. The reason he hangs the caliper by a wire is so it remains attached to the system, and therefore he doesn't have to replace the fluid!
@@stretcher thank you so much Eric. This helps me very much. I thought that because I had to push the piston back in that it would cause a air bubble or bubbles. I did check my fluid and it only slightly went down but not enough to for air to enter so I did add a little bit of fluid. Thank you so much for your reply. Take care
@@cece5659 Don't forget a brake fluid flush/change is a good idea after several years, so if your vehicle is getting on in years it could be decent preventative maintenance to avoid braking issues. I've had my brakes slush up during winter and its annoying AND scary. It's caused by the fluid absorbing moisture over time and then freezing like a slushi drink!
@@stretcher thank you Eric. I am planning a bleed soon. My car has 73 thousand miles on it and is a 2014. I need two people and finding the second person to pump the brakes has been a challenge because I need them for about an hour. Nobody has time anymore it would seem hence me doing and learning on my own. I really appreciate you helping me and your advice. Thanks so much!!
Hey I replaced my rear breaks (disks) just like the front. Had a tough time pushing the caliper piston back in On both rides. I am getting a strong break smell from one side. Any recommendations?
jimthecarguy I took the hardware out and cleaned them and applied break lube because the new hardware didn’t fit correctly. I am going to check the slide pins. Thanks for the response
jimthecarguy checked it today fixed it the caliper piston has 2 divers and the divet wasn’t in the right spot to match with the break pads notch to fit in.
Have you noticed?? About everyone had the right inside pad wore down? I found the problem. The 'squealer' hangs up the pad & it doesn't release completely. No problem with the left, it has clearance. The cure (*L*) Rip off the 'squealer' clip !!! You still have one on the left.
I did the pads & rotor on my 2014 Soul Front-Right a couple days ago. The new pad had a squealer but it is so small that it won't squeal until the pad is about 0%
Informative, yes. I understand you're filming in a congested area to show the work details, but seeing that brake cleaner glance off the painted trim made me shudder!
at 3:24 you never force brake fluid back into feed line into the ABS master valve bank: because it has very tiny little ORIFICES that will plug up and then you will be sorry... must open caliper bleeder screw with a hose attached to it then into a recovery source like a can or bottle then properly disposed of for it is dirty fluid that can not be reused back into the system but you are forcing it back into the ABS bank which is a sad and lazy mans way to service a customers vehicle ... and why are we not torquing down the fasteners that hold the brake hardware ??? like @ 19:30 & @ 16:44 ??? i would think this could come loose if not torque properly and this should be a key point on a DIY video so you get a thumbs down from me.... you should remake this video ASAP just say`n ..
Long as the brake fluid reservior lid is open, and a rag around it to catch the fluid push-back, it's not lazy, it's smart. Literally NOBODY bleeds brakes any more. Havent done it in 20+ years, had zero problems.
@@willspy4u please call a Brake shop and ask for a Shop Foreman and ask him: Sir is it just fine to back feed fuild from the caliper back into the Anti-lock Master valve bank Sir??? Haha yes he will know your are uneducated on the system orifices within the unit... also ask what happens if i install DOT 3 brake fluid into a DOT 5 only unit ???
I'm not worried about it. It is a "sealed system." I've seen professional shops do exactly the same thing. Now, I do agree that about every 100,000 miles, you should probably bleed the brakes; but conventional wisdom is that, with sealed systems such as transmission fluid and brake fluid; there's really no need. You can quote me all the specs you want. As long as the top is off the brake reservoir, it's fine to do - I would say the same to you: go check various shops and see if they truly bleed / empty / replace the brake fluid each time. I really don't know if most shops still do that; but for my purposes, it works fine; and I've never had any issues.
Just changed the front pads and rotors on my 2018 Kia Soul+. Had my 14 year old son help so that he could get some experience with mechanical work. I had him watch your video first as well. I paid $176 for the pads, rotors, silicone, and brake cleaner. The dealer nearby wanted to charge $450. You helped me save $274 today. Thank you! The worst and only difficult part was putting the pads into the clips or whatever you call those thin metal pieces. Everything else went smoothly. The screws came out without persuasion but the rotors needed a heavy hammer.
Was the set-up same as his video I have a 2016.
Thank you SO MUCH Jim! You explain the process so thoroughly well that after watching this last night, I finally felt confident to change my brakes/rotors on my 16 myself. I am happy to say, followed this step by step and worked perfectly! Greetings from Rockledge, FL
You forgot to reinstall the springs on the brake pads before you put the caliper on, or you forgot to mention that you did it. Second thing nobody has mentioned that there are tabs that keep the brake pads from coming out of the shims between the mounting bracket and the brake pad.
Those tabs are important! I went to a local guy for a brake pad replacement and he forgot to fix those. Brakes were squealing bad
Don't forget to use red threat lock like the previous owner of my van did he used it on the wheel bearing bolts, brake mounting bracket and rotor. (Those new to this, don't use red it's permanent and nearly impossible to get off, use blue it's not permanent)
Attempting this this week. Ill comment how it goes. Thank you in advance.
Thank you for the great video. Watched the video to see if I needed any special tools to perform the brake swap on my 2015 KIA Soul. Thanks again for the detail and professional job.
Thanks for watching. Check out my Amazon store. Here are some of the tools that jimthecarguy uses
www.amazon.com/shop/jimthecarguy
Hey, thanks for the professional approach. It's been a couple years since I attempted a brake job so a refresher is good. I watched a few other Soul brake videos and they never mentioned grease, the slider pins or replacing hardware which I know is the way to go.
Actually I always lube the slide pins and replace the hardware . (11:00-12:00) Thanks for watching. If you need any help just ask.
Thanks @jimthecarguy! Saving this for reference for when I replace brake pads on my daughter's car.
Glad to help
Great video but I ended up having to take it to a shop anyway. I got the two screws out of the rotor but for the life of me couldn't get it to slide off the hub. I hammered the back a few times with no success
Update: So after doing some research I decided to try the washer trick and it worked! Job complete without having to take it to a shop.
You can be assertive getting old rotors off.....watch your hands & fingers.
Thank you so much for adding this video! It was very helpful!
One question: If behind the rotar is rusted and we have to clean it, can we use brake cleaner to clean it (just like you used to clean the grease off the new rotar) or do we use something else?
Good question. No the brake cleaner will not work. You can use sand paper or emery cloth to clean the rust. This is a very important part of the job.
I know it's a late reply, but using a small wire brush would be best for this. I would start with brass but use a steel one lightly if the rust is stubborn. They are often sold in a 3 pack at any auto store for only several dollars.
Will definitely keep this on my favorite list when I attempt to do mine. I'm assuming the proper torque specs were also done after the video was completed. But in any case, the manual has the specs and I just needed to see it done aside from taking your queues from the pictures on the manual.
Thanks for watching
I'm not understanding why you pushed the piston back while it was enclosed. If it was for checking the slide pins, you can just pull on the boot and figure it out that way, can't you?
No that will not work because you don't just need to see them they have to slide.Thanks for watching.
As in most videos changing brake pads front or rear always seems what is not shown or mentioned that the first thing that should be done is the master cylinder cap should be poped open to relieve the pressure when the caliper piston is being squeezed back inwards so the fluid does not blast everywhere getting all over the car & in this video did not even show the piston being reset flush before pads was iinstalled into the brake caliper?
You obviously didn't even watch the video because it did show him resetting the piston.
Hello
Should the rear brake piston be twisted with a special tool in order to compress or perhaps mine is ceased up?
I just changed the rear and another video says it does take a special tool but you can get by with needle nose pliers. Pretty tough but it does work.
Great video, my 2016 had the exact same think happen. Front right inside pad wore much earlier than the rest
Thanks for watching.
Same thing just happened to me too same side changing it this weekend but good video. 🤙🏽
Thanks for the video Jim, what kind/brand of grease did you use?
Thank you. Good video 👍
Good video sir. Btw, you have the voice of a hollywood star. Star from gangster movies like "Goodfellas". Thanks
That was great, I wish I had a garage and tools, looks easier that I would have thought
How do you compress the piston thing back in to fit around the new brake pads??!
Edit: Whoops! It's at 3:36. Thanks again!!
At the 3:36 point I show you how to push the piston back. Good luck.
@@jimthecarguy Sorry, guess I missed it. Thanks!!
Awesome good video. Thank you for sharing. I truly hope you have a Blessed Happy Thanksgiving.
Thanksgiving 2022 and still watching this video
Hi Jim, I watched the great video you made showing how to replace the pads and rotors on a 2010 Kia Soul . If the rotors have not been damaged any way is there any problem replacing the pads only?
Old Rotors would need cut at least. Often easier to replace them even if they seem to be good
You might want to mention that the caliper sometimes will not fit back on due to the newer thickness of the pads. This is happening to be and now I need to go get a c clamp and pretty that works 😫😟
3:36
I know it's a year later but maybe your brakes are due again 😁
@@noonce actually covid 19 restrictions cut down on my driving immensely so I am good to go!
@@yadayadayada4674 nice!
How hard are the rear brakes on the kia soul 2016?
Is that silicone grease your using?
I will NEVER pay someone to do my brakes EVER!!!!!!! It's that easy. I changed pads and rotors. Saved a ton of money because of crooked people at Les Schwab. Kia soul 2011. Easy peasy lemon squeezy.seems like whatever you did was harder than what I had to do. Different year makes a difference.
Thanks for watching.
@@jimthecarguy Thank you for showing us how 😊
Why did you replace the rotor in stead of turning it it looks like it had plenty if metal
I always replace rotors when warped or when they have lost thickness due to grinding. Turning them makes them thinner. Thinner material is more prone to warpage from heat. Just my preference as brakes are one of the most important safety mechanisms on the vehicle.
Do you have to bleed the brakes after you were done replacing rotors and pads?
Not necessary unless you open the brake system ie: remove the caliper from the brake line. The reason he hangs the caliper by a wire is so it remains attached to the system, and therefore he doesn't have to replace the fluid!
@@stretcher thank you so much Eric. This helps me very much. I thought that because I had to push the piston back in that it would cause a air bubble or bubbles. I did check my fluid and it only slightly went down but not enough to for air to enter so I did add a little bit of fluid. Thank you so much for your reply.
Take care
@@cece5659 Don't forget a brake fluid flush/change is a good idea after several years, so if your vehicle is getting on in years it could be decent preventative maintenance to avoid braking issues. I've had my brakes slush up during winter and its annoying AND scary. It's caused by the fluid absorbing moisture over time and then freezing like a slushi drink!
@@stretcher thank you Eric. I am planning a bleed soon. My car has 73 thousand miles on it and is a 2014. I need two people and finding the second person to pump the brakes has been a challenge because I need them for about an hour. Nobody has time anymore it would seem hence me doing and learning on my own. I really appreciate you helping me and your advice. Thanks so much!!
Great job very informative
Glad you liked it
No torque wrench?
How can I download this to watch later as I do the job?
Thanks for watching. If you run into any trouble let me know.
Terry just go back to main screen and “share” it with yourself. You can text it or email to wherever.
Hey I replaced my rear breaks (disks) just like the front. Had a tough time pushing the caliper piston back in On both rides. I am getting a strong break smell from one side. Any recommendations?
Yes when you installed the brake pads did you also replace the hardware and lube it? Also do the slide pins slide freely and did you lube them?
jimthecarguy I took the hardware out and cleaned them and applied break lube because the new hardware didn’t fit correctly. I am going to check the slide pins.
Thanks for the response
They were the break best pads from O’Reillys
@@jimcajon8475 Make sure that there is no rust under the new hardware
jimthecarguy checked it today
fixed it the caliper piston has 2 divers and the divet wasn’t in the right spot to match with the break pads notch to fit in.
Thank you for tutorial
You're welcome 😊
Great video! Thanks buddy!
Thanks for watching. Im happy to help. Don't forget to subscribe.
Good vid,thx
Have you noticed?? About everyone had the right inside pad wore down? I found the problem. The 'squealer' hangs up the pad & it doesn't release completely. No problem with the left, it has clearance. The cure (*L*) Rip off the 'squealer' clip !!! You still have one on the left.
Thanks for watching.
The squealer is there for a reason. Your advice assumes the brakes all wear out at the same rate.....
David Bloomberg; you’re right , but there isn’t clearance for a squeaker on this pad, a design flaw which may have been corrected?
I did the pads & rotor on my 2014 Soul Front-Right a couple days ago. The new pad had a squealer but it is so small that it won't squeal until the pad is about 0%
David, do what I do on any car, check the pads regular, just good maintenance, peace out.
My pistin isn't like this one. It's a twisting one? Gotta buy a special tool.
Rears likely use the screw-style piston
@@davidbloomberg9494 I got it done but that cat got repoed lol
Informative, yes. I understand you're filming in a congested area to show the work details, but seeing that brake cleaner glance off the painted trim made me shudder!
No need to worry the cleaner will not affect the paint.
Any better way to get those screws out? I know I'm about to strip the living shit out of them
Did you use the metal punch and hammer?
Idk why they thought screws holding the rotor in place was a good idea. Horrible design decision
at 3:24 you never force brake fluid back into feed line into the ABS master valve bank: because it has very tiny little ORIFICES that will plug up and then
you will be sorry... must open caliper bleeder screw with a hose attached to it then into a recovery source like a can or bottle then properly disposed of for it is dirty fluid that can not be reused back into the system but you are forcing it back into the ABS bank which is a sad and lazy mans way to service a customers vehicle ... and why are we not torquing down the fasteners that hold the brake hardware ??? like @ 19:30 & @ 16:44 ??? i would think this could come loose if not torque properly and this should be a key point on a DIY video so you get a thumbs down from me.... you should remake this video ASAP just say`n ..
Long as the brake fluid reservior lid is open, and a rag around it to catch the fluid push-back, it's not lazy, it's smart. Literally NOBODY bleeds brakes any more. Havent done it in 20+ years, had zero problems.
@@willspy4u please call a Brake shop and ask for a Shop Foreman and ask him: Sir is it just fine to back feed fuild from the caliper back into the Anti-lock Master valve bank Sir??? Haha yes he will know your are uneducated on the system orifices within the unit... also ask what happens if i install DOT 3 brake fluid into a DOT 5 only unit ???
I'm not worried about it. It is a "sealed system." I've seen professional shops do exactly the same thing. Now, I do agree that about every 100,000 miles, you should probably bleed the brakes; but conventional wisdom is that, with sealed systems such as transmission fluid and brake fluid; there's really no need. You can quote me all the specs you want. As long as the top is off the brake reservoir, it's fine to do - I would say the same to you: go check various shops and see if they truly bleed / empty / replace the brake fluid each time. I really don't know if most shops still do that; but for my purposes, it works fine; and I've never had any issues.