Nicely done good sir! I've been a DYI'er for many years but this is the first time I ran across a perfect video for my learning style on the first try. love your no nonsense approach. especially the fast forward bits. Had to Like and Subscribe on my first visit. Thanks again Mr Fixit! I'll be back...
Yes but you did forget about torque the caliper bracket and wheel nuts ,plus your rear caliper needs to have those two noches set at 12 o' clock and six when you turn the piston in..
Just brought my 2016 Kia Soul (1.6L 6-speed manual) into a "shocks & brakes" shop. Car is five years old, with 44,000+ miles on the odometer. It needs pads & rotors on both front and both rear wheels, plus they discovered a leak on the rear calipers. So both rear calipers are being replaced, too. A serious expense of ownership that I didn't expect to happen so soon in the car's lifetime. :-( At least the front calipers are fine. :-/ Apparently, the "integrated design" of the rear brakes and the hand-brake is a contributing factor?
I replaced both front and rear brake pads and rotors at around 40k mikes on my KIA, so that seems to be consistent. Where the pads slide on the bracket gets junked up, and the pads stop sliding easily. When you apply the brakes, the pads stick in place rather than sliding slightly away from the rotor when you release the pedal, causing the pads to wear more. To make the brakes last longer, you almost need to take them apart and clean and relube the slide points every year or so. I doubt anyone does that. As for the leaking caliper, hopefully it is a shop you trust. I am not familiar with inegrated ebrake causing leaky calipers, but I have only ever worked on mine. They probably have a broader range of experience.
That makes sense (the extra cleaning & maintenance, to extend the service life of the brake system). Is it just me, or have manufacturers, as a group, shifted the parameters of value & quality versus the cost of ownership?
Not sure what holes you are talkiing about in the caliper. Are you talking about the 2 notchies in the piston where I stuck the tip of the needle nose pliers to twist it back in? If so, no, they don't line up with anything.
@@TheFixitShed Totally WRONG sir. The locating pins on the back of the pad must go into one of the notches in the piston. The piston notches are V shaped for a reason, so the pin on the back of the pad wil locate itself if the angle is a little off. The notches are set to 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock. Please check your info before telling others how to do it wrong.
Typically, sluggish brakes are the result of air in the brake lines. You did say that you bled the brake lines already, but you may want to try again after the the car sits for a while and the air bublles have had time to collect. If not that, then (ruling out what you have already done) it might be a master cylinder issue. Please note: I am not a profressional mechanic. I just enjoy working on my own things and sharing my experiences.
You bleed brakes to remove air from the hydrolic braking system. As long as you have not disconnected one of the hydrolic brake lines you won't have let any air into the system. That is why when I slide the brake caliper off I don't disconnect the brake line from it, I hang the caliper on a bungee cord or wire. If I diconnected that line, then I would need to bleed the brakes to remove the air that I let in. If you finish the brake job and the brake pedal feels spongey, bleed the brakes. If the pedal feels nice and firm, you don't need to. Most of the time, you don't need to.
What some do is a, " brake fluid refresh. " When you are done servicing the brakes, you take a clean turkey baster and suck up the brake fluid in the master cylinder. Then you pour a new bottle of correct type of brake fluid into reservoir. This mixes in fresh brake fluid and you extend the life of the overall fluid. Brake bleeding is problematic with, for example, GM ABS and Prius regenerative brake system modules made of thin aluminum & plastic passages. Toyota dealerships stopped doing brake bleeds on 2004-2009 Priuses older than 7 years due to damage caused by bleeding.
@@ferndog1461 Ok. brake fluid refresh and open the valve in the caliper and push the piston, so the fluid goes out. This is a good job done, if you don't want to do extra like putting a hose, a bottle, and push brake pedal to bleed it.
Nicely done good sir! I've been a DYI'er for many years but this is the first time I ran across a perfect video for my learning style on the first try. love your no nonsense approach. especially the fast forward bits. Had to Like and Subscribe on my first visit. Thanks again Mr Fixit! I'll be back...
Thank you for the awesome coment! I am glad you found the video helpful.
Yes but you did forget about torque the caliper bracket and wheel nuts ,plus your rear caliper needs to have those two noches set at 12 o' clock and six when you turn the piston in..
Thanks so much..I'll try it on my 2014 Soul, I assume the same steps for a 2015 Kia Optima.
You are welcome. The process should be similar.
Thank you.
You're welcome!
Thank for your video it help me close the compressor, big thank you!!
Glad it helped!
Just brought my 2016 Kia Soul (1.6L 6-speed manual) into a "shocks & brakes" shop.
Car is five years old, with 44,000+ miles on the odometer.
It needs pads & rotors on both front and both rear wheels, plus they discovered a leak on the rear calipers. So both rear calipers are being replaced, too.
A serious expense of ownership that I didn't expect to happen so soon in the car's lifetime. :-(
At least the front calipers are fine. :-/
Apparently, the "integrated design" of the rear brakes and the hand-brake is a contributing factor?
I replaced both front and rear brake pads and rotors at around 40k mikes on my KIA, so that seems to be consistent. Where the pads slide on the bracket gets junked up, and the pads stop sliding easily. When you apply the brakes, the pads stick in place rather than sliding slightly away from the rotor when you release the pedal, causing the pads to wear more. To make the brakes last longer, you almost need to take them apart and clean and relube the slide points every year or so. I doubt anyone does that.
As for the leaking caliper, hopefully it is a shop you trust. I am not familiar with inegrated ebrake causing leaky calipers, but I have only ever worked on mine. They probably have a broader range of experience.
That makes sense (the extra cleaning & maintenance, to extend the service life of the brake system). Is it just me, or have manufacturers, as a group, shifted the parameters of value & quality versus the cost of ownership?
So it would seem.
@@libraeotequever3pointoh95 l
I am at 67k miles and got the grinding front right brake....rears are on order but got both fronts done
Ran into problem where one of the banjo bolts was stuck, I could not get it to move without a c-clamp.
Glad you got it figured out!
So its not important to set the pins in the back break pad back in the holes in the calliper?
Not sure what holes you are talkiing about in the caliper. Are you talking about the 2 notchies in the piston where I stuck the tip of the needle nose pliers to twist it back in? If so, no, they don't line up with anything.
@@TheFixitShed Totally WRONG sir. The locating pins on the back of the pad must go into one of the notches in the piston. The piston notches are V shaped for a reason, so the pin on the back of the pad wil locate itself if the angle is a little off. The notches are set to 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock. Please check your info before telling others how to do it wrong.
Yes it is important. See my reply below.
I just did a 2016 Kia Forte all four brakes and caliber on the passenger side bled the brakes and I'm still getting the brake pedal sluggish
Typically, sluggish brakes are the result of air in the brake lines. You did say that you bled the brake lines already, but you may want to try again after the the car sits for a while and the air bublles have had time to collect. If not that, then (ruling out what you have already done) it might be a master cylinder issue. Please note: I am not a profressional mechanic. I just enjoy working on my own things and sharing my experiences.
Why is it everyone on CZcams who does brakes does not bleed their brakes. Especially with ABS brakes.
You bleed brakes to remove air from the hydrolic braking system. As long as you have not disconnected one of the hydrolic brake lines you won't have let any air into the system. That is why when I slide the brake caliper off I don't disconnect the brake line from it, I hang the caliper on a bungee cord or wire. If I diconnected that line, then I would need to bleed the brakes to remove the air that I let in. If you finish the brake job and the brake pedal feels spongey, bleed the brakes. If the pedal feels nice and firm, you don't need to. Most of the time, you don't need to.
What some do is a, " brake fluid refresh. " When you are done servicing the brakes, you take a clean turkey baster and suck up the brake fluid in the master cylinder. Then you pour a new bottle of correct type of brake fluid into reservoir.
This mixes in fresh brake fluid and you extend the life of the overall fluid.
Brake bleeding is problematic with, for example, GM ABS and Prius regenerative brake system modules made of thin aluminum & plastic passages.
Toyota dealerships stopped doing brake bleeds on 2004-2009 Priuses older than 7 years due to damage caused by bleeding.
@@ferndog1461 Ok. brake fluid refresh and open the valve in the caliper and push the piston, so the fluid goes out. This is a good job done, if you don't want to do extra like putting a hose, a bottle, and push brake pedal to bleed it.
Take that ring off your finger when wrenching on a car !!!
Thanks