I do like how you end the videos now, nothing wrong with a cold one at the end of the day. cmon people you got to subscribe to the channel it's fun to see a cool shop heated with a wood burning stove and a couple of cool down to earth guys working on their sleds and no BS talk it feels like i'm sitting in a chair watching them wrench on the sleds. awesome to finally see some sled action again hopefully you can figure yours out greg, nice to see the new tach working for Keegan have a great day guys thanks again.
Hay man! Thanks so much! Keegan doesn't even really like beer, but I thought it would be fun to crack a cold one and review what we did. Thanks for your continued support!
SS440 was my dream machine in junior high school. Since I was riding a John Deere 400 Green Machine. When my brother finally bought one as a backup sled we had surpassed its capabilities and considered it a toy. Talking about a bouncy front end. Our liquid cooled engines and independent front suspensions had spoiled us.
secondary comes B-2 for flat land 40 deg. C-2 for altitude or big paddle track 70 deg. it will back shift better but even more weight is needed some times
Yeah, that was my mistake. The 81 spec (using a different spring) was 180 degree twist. It was a heck of a chore to get that newer spring wrapped to 180 degrees! I set it at around 60 degrees for the race and I liked how that felt.
Riechard's Perfomance made the dual carb manifolds for the SRV engines when they were new. It's a pretty rare and desirable "upgrade" for one of these sleds/engines. You are right though, I only have the one sled with that on it and don't have much experience with slide carbs in general. I am leaning towards an issue with the primary clutch at this point, and will probably show what I find in the next video if I get it worked out by then. Thanks for watching!
Just tossing this out there, but another variable might be the tracks on the sleds. Maybe one is heavier? Slight differences in tension? Condition of the hyfax, or maybe a stiff idler bearing? Jackshaft bearings? I am sure you guys have explored most of these but again, kind of grabbing at iseas here. We finally got some snow here in Tomahj as well. About 7 inches or so. But it was enough to open most of the trails around here...at least for a couple of days. But hey, we will take what we can get this year.
We talked about most of the items you mentioned, and having this dilemma on my mind over a night, I woke up and think it is the clutch weights/spring combo in the primary. We will be working our way through that over the next week here. Thanks so much for the input and for watching the channel too!
belt to the top of primary clutch is one to one ratio, best efficiency ( power to the grown ) fine tune with more spring shims or maybe less spring pressure, and gearing for hole shot vs top end needs. 540cc pulls 17,18,19 top gear with 29 to 31 bottom from yamaha stock. the wide belt is good but shifts up slower than used because of exposed weight
Good show guys. Looking for some help on jetting. Burned a hole in piston on my Cherry 1980 ET 250 So started Over new piston gap rings Oil pump delete . Slight port work just Clean up new fuel pump Tried to run a new 34 Mikuni 270 main 65 pilot it came with. Started an ran but Over Flow gas while running Thinking 220 main 35 pilot ? Any help would Be appreciated . Need to go by Jets. I don’t have any of that small on my sleds are bigger Jets.
Depends how bad the rust is and what you want from your repair. Does it need to look good? I've used self tapping screw and old license plates several times. I've also welded new sheet metal on which is way more labor intensive, but a stronger fix structurally. Thanks for watching our vids!
Thanks! I discovered a total bonehead move on my part. I was using the 1981 service spec for the secondary tension which was incredibly hard to accomplish using the spring from the later years, but we accomplished it, and wrapped the secondary incredibly tight, causing it to not shift out all the way and back shift really hard. Got 'er fixed now. Rookie move. Thanks for the input though, sounds like you've got quite a bit more experience than we do in the race tweaking scene. I Appreciate it!!
Yeah, I discovered a problem with the specs I had used for setting up the secondary clutches. They were wrapped way too tight (I used the wrong year specs), and they were not shifting out all the way. Thanks!
I do like how you end the videos now, nothing wrong with a cold one at the end of the day. cmon people you got to subscribe to the channel it's fun to see a cool shop heated with a wood burning stove and a couple of cool down to earth guys working on their sleds and no BS talk it feels like i'm sitting in a chair watching them wrench on the sleds. awesome to finally see some sled action again hopefully you can figure yours out greg, nice to see the new tach working for Keegan have a great day guys thanks again.
Hay man! Thanks so much! Keegan doesn't even really like beer, but I thought it would be fun to crack a cold one and review what we did. Thanks for your continued support!
SS440 was my dream machine in junior high school. Since I was riding a John Deere 400 Green Machine. When my brother finally bought one as a backup sled we had surpassed its capabilities and considered it a toy. Talking about a bouncy front end. Our liquid cooled engines and independent front suspensions had spoiled us.
secondary comes B-2 for flat land 40 deg. C-2 for altitude or big paddle track 70 deg. it will back shift better but even more weight is needed some times
Yeah, that was my mistake. The 81 spec (using a different spring) was 180 degree twist. It was a heck of a chore to get that newer spring wrapped to 180 degrees! I set it at around 60 degrees for the race and I liked how that felt.
What's with the dual carb setup in that sled? That seems like a big variable to me. Thanks for the vids, glad we're starting to finally get some snow.
Riechard's Perfomance made the dual carb manifolds for the SRV engines when they were new. It's a pretty rare and desirable "upgrade" for one of these sleds/engines. You are right though, I only have the one sled with that on it and don't have much experience with slide carbs in general. I am leaning towards an issue with the primary clutch at this point, and will probably show what I find in the next video if I get it worked out by then. Thanks for watching!
Just tossing this out there, but another variable might be the tracks on the sleds. Maybe one is heavier? Slight differences in tension? Condition of the hyfax, or maybe a stiff idler bearing? Jackshaft bearings? I am sure you guys have explored most of these but again, kind of grabbing at iseas here.
We finally got some snow here in Tomahj as well. About 7 inches or so. But it was enough to open most of the trails around here...at least for a couple of days. But hey, we will take what we can get this year.
We talked about most of the items you mentioned, and having this dilemma on my mind over a night, I woke up and think it is the clutch weights/spring combo in the primary. We will be working our way through that over the next week here. Thanks so much for the input and for watching the channel too!
belt to the top of primary clutch is one to one ratio, best efficiency ( power to the grown ) fine tune with more spring shims or maybe less spring pressure, and gearing for hole shot vs top end needs. 540cc pulls 17,18,19 top gear with 29 to 31 bottom from yamaha stock. the wide belt is good but shifts up slower than used because of exposed weight
Great info man! I really appreciate the insight! Keep it coming if you see something. Thank you!
Good show guys.
Looking for some help on jetting. Burned a hole in piston on my Cherry 1980 ET 250
So started Over new piston gap rings Oil pump delete . Slight port work just Clean up new fuel pump
Tried to run a new 34
Mikuni 270 main 65 pilot it came with. Started an ran but Over
Flow gas while running
Thinking 220 main 35 pilot ? Any help would
Be appreciated . Need to go by Jets. I don’t have any of that small on my sleds are bigger Jets.
Your carb inlet needle & seat isn't holding.
What is the best way to fix my rusted out belly pan on my 1980 enticer?
Depends how bad the rust is and what you want from your repair. Does it need to look good? I've used self tapping screw and old license plates several times. I've also welded new sheet metal on which is way more labor intensive, but a stronger fix structurally. Thanks for watching our vids!
put 4 or 5 more grams on clutch. 52 to 54 8vo's weights gears up clutch to stock run 7500 rpm and go 90 mph
Thanks! I discovered a total bonehead move on my part. I was using the 1981 service spec for the secondary tension which was incredibly hard to accomplish using the spring from the later years, but we accomplished it, and wrapped the secondary incredibly tight, causing it to not shift out all the way and back shift really hard. Got 'er fixed now. Rookie move. Thanks for the input though, sounds like you've got quite a bit more experience than we do in the race tweaking scene. I Appreciate it!!
you're topping out, try just changing one gear on the bottom and going back up a tooth on the top.
What kinda rpms was 540 pulling. Wonder if its not upshifting hard enough?
Yeah, I discovered a problem with the specs I had used for setting up the secondary clutches. They were wrapped way too tight (I used the wrong year specs), and they were not shifting out all the way. Thanks!