Should You Use a Crush Washer?
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- čas přidán 12. 09. 2024
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Thanks ATF for making a freaking little metal muffler cost more than a used car.
normalized extortion
Where are funding a used car that runs for $1000 these days.
@@virgman87yeah I'm wondering where he's finding these as well
Its called looking for cars in places where you normally do not go or talk to people and cheap cars always pop up even on facebook the show up. And lowering your standards also helps as well 😂
I found a used truck for $500 i just have to rebuild the entire fuel evap system lol @@virgman87
THANK YOU!!! For those of us that are JUST NOW getting into flash hider/muzzle brake, etc. changes - EVERYBODY gives the "hold up of the crush washer", w/ a comment about it, (*the crush washer), going; "like that".
YOUR illustration actually SHOWS the crush washer position.
THANK YOU!!!
Race track Ant approves of this video
Muzzle Devices that need to be timed = Shims
Muzzle Devices that don’t need to be timed = No Shims
General rule there. With that said, always follow your muzzle device/suppressor instructions. Also, you CAN use shims for a muzzle device that doesn’t need to be timed such as a standard 3 prong flash hider, if you’re OCD and want the prongs at a certain position, but it is 100% NOT needed.
I finally got my first suppressor a couple weeks back (1-year, thanks ATF). I was about to mount the brake with a crush washer. Thankfully I read Silencerco's directions before I made that mistake. 300 blk nice and quiet now :)
12 seconds in and I got my Answer thats a like and a sub
I would think, if you use a crush washer, then using a bore alignment rod when installed can ensure no baffle strikes. That said...A new barrel is a lot less expensive to replace with a permanent muzzle break installed, than a grand for a new suppressor.
It’s crazy that the AE AEM5 and OCL OCM5 still use a crush washer. Installed one a few months ago. I was so hesitant. But no issues!!
Nice vid...….installing muzzle devices on the AR should be done using barrel blocks, not a clamshell or magwell block. Its the absolute correct way to avoid torque on your index pin/barrel extension.
Many newer AR's now have full-length rails, making the use of barrel blocks impossible.
@@fallout1116 reaction rod works.
You don't need a torque wrench for a crush washer, because it gets to a certain poundage and then just maintains that poundage, because it crushes. That's why you use one. You can time it where you want without going to ridiculous torque numbers.
At Minute 3:10, watch the insect on the thickest shim next to the crush washer, he's using it like a race track!!!! 😂😂😂😂
2:12
Most excellent explanation of why a crush washer for a suppressor is not a good idea, thanks!
Glad you made this video. This really clears up the issue for me since I'm starting to use a lot of quick detach muzzle brakes with my supressors.
Green Loctite just means it's wicking and you don't need to disassemble parts to apply it. There's low torque green that's not even as strong as blue and high torque green that's as strong as the best red.
Where do people come up with this stuff?
25 to 30lbs of torque for most muzzle devices. Youre FAR under that. Rocksett (and the like) has caused much more problems than its prevented. Locking compound isnt supposed to replace proper torque and install. Youre spot on about the crush washer, but thats not the proper way to install a qd muzzle device.
Have A 762 x 39 WarComp. Manual Says Use Chamfered Edge Shim.
Great video! I have a Rugged 556 a few weeks (hopefully) to go to be approved by unconstitutional overlords. I ordered 2 Rugged flash hiders for my long guns and will use the weird nubby brake that comes with the can on my 10.5”. Definitely useful information for me - thanks!
Yes, I learned how not to piss away a grand and an 8 month wait!
NAPA...
Mr. C 2qt filter for a 454 1979 model huh?
@@mr.c7021 exactly lol
If i want a suppressor, i go to the shop, buy it and take it home. No paperwork no extra fees or taxes.
asdf jklö If I want a gun I do the same. Your silencer in Europe doesn’t do its job without the purchase of a firearm first, you just have a paperweight. 😂🤣😂
Although I won't ever use a silencer this was a very good video.
Answered my question perfectly.Thanks!
Heat expands get a $10 silicone oven mit and take it off when its still hot on the gun
I don’t have muzzle devices that can be used with suppressors so crush washer is still fine if you’re like me
I don't think it's a good idea to loctite a muzzle device or castle nut (stake instead) but on everything else you certainly should. All other screws/threads are small and can't be torqued very tight due to their small size and strength.... therefore loctite on those small fasteners is a must...but use blue on them. I do love the advice about no crush washer for cans and using the shims instead. Being a machinist for 25 years I completely understand how the misalignment will stack up over the length of the can.
Matt Blackwood I agree. 25 to 30 fl/lbs wont just randomly back off. Loctite/rocksett isnt a substitute for proper torque.
@Bryce Czirr then it was never properly installed.
@Bryce Czirr How about you stop telling me when I can comment on a public post? I have removed many factory installed muzzle brakes and such and never saw a single one with threadlocker. Also have built 15+ rifles and never had one come loose. And yes they get used. Maybe a lot of folks use it, not saying they don't, but to say it is recommended, or even necessary is just not the case. If it makes you feel better then use it I guess. I am done. I don't understand the need for being a jerk, but I'm sure you will reply in kind.
I throw the crush washers that come with brakes away, I take a normal flat washer and file it down to the timing of the break, you have to get it just the right thickness that when you can't twist the break anymore its timed perfect right at that point, I do this so I dont have to use any type of permanent loctite because I'll change out brakes all the time, if you use this file it to the exact thickness that you cant turn the brake past its proper timing, you dont have to worry about it coming loose or it being permanently stuck on your rifle
2:23 it's less that its $1000 and more that it's like a year and a half.
Second time this video has saved me from a baffle strike. Thanks man.
Thanks for the short answer. 👍
Shims and Rocksett. That's how all of my brakes that interface with cans are mounted.
I've got no plans to remove the muzzle devices, so that's why I'm ok with using Rocksett. Sure, it's a bitch to get off, but it's still possible.
Soaking it in hot water works surprisingly well. I’ve heard boiling water, but warm water + a few hours and reaction rod + wrench works to break it off. Once it’s off continue to soak barrel in warm water a few minutes to get remaining rocksett off. Then dry and use CLP :) that’s my method anyway.
@@DrunkDrynasty rockset reacts to cold water
I have seen baffle struggles l strikes because if crush washers, but it is always with longer, 308 cans. If you are using mini cans and small 556 cans, I think you're ok, but it's still good to do. Cheap is expensive, and expensive is cheap.
Excellent video!! Tells you what shim size to use..what kind of loctite to use!! Actually, this is the ONLY video that tell's you all of that as far as timing and installing your muzzle brake..so big KUDOS!!..
thanks my man! this answered my question!
Thanks for this info!
Awesome vid!!! I can't see spending a grand on a can. Just me tho. Rather have more guns lol. Shoot em if you got em
OP did you mention using a torque wrench to torque that 15 degrees you accounted for? I missed that part. I use a reaction rod or bev block to prevent putting torque on my barrel/upper connection. Then torque to 30-40in/lbs. seems to be what most manufacturers recommend. If you don’t have a torque wrench just don’t torque so hard that you go over 45-50 inch/lbs or you’ll F up the threads on your nice barrel - which is easier said than done. After doing it a few times you kinda know how much pressure you need to use.
But..but...da shims...😂
Excellent video, and I learned a bunch! Thank you 🙂
You’re over thinking it. A flat washers is flat… you’re being misled by the cut out image if the threads, and forgetting that device is round. It will apply even pressure all the way around either way.
Negative
Thank you. Now...What if you have a separate locking nut up against the shoulder of the barrel end. Should you still use a crush washer between the locking nut and the muzzle brake?
3:12 sugar ant on the middle washer heck yeah
Thanks for this, very informative
Crush washers, the lazy and inferior substitute for shims.
Great video, instant subscriber!
you know i''m a plumber by trade and when we threaded something that had to be just so (yes it happens) and it was off by a turn or or less we just cranked on to get it to go into place or we'd use Teflon tape OR PFT tape for purist (i'd guess teflon tape wouldn't work because of melting point) So why would you not just want to just torque down on the brake or qd device
I'm a motorcycle technician and know virtually nothing about guns or firearms in general (British). Teflon = PTFE . Teflon is trademark name even though it's become generic for PTFE tape. I also trained as a machinist. Pipe threads are tapered, compressing pipe and expanding fitting to seal. Parallel machine threads stretch the material and will change dimensions of parts, With fluid it isn't a big deal but fast moving solid objects will have a hard time with dimension changes
Peter Jones huh wish I’d been taught that. Very interesting. Thanks bro.
Exactly pete if you over torque your muzzle device you can stretch the crown/barrel and if you do that it will throw your bullets way off and could possibly cause a catastrophic failure/explosion
So the engineers at Sig have no clue what they are doing?
Here’s my question, griffin armament makes a a2 blast shield that allowed you to qd on of their cans directly to an at flash hider. A2 flash hiders use crush washers. So are they saying that crush washers are ok to use with a silencer?
Maybe, silencers are generally a decent amount larger than what they’re intended for, griffin armament might make up for the a2 flash hider by making the bore of their silencer a lot bigger.
Save everyone some time.. DONT USE CRUSH WASHERS.
Perfect. Thanks.
Good info - thanks!
Thank you 😊
Did you make this video last Thursday when the storms blew through Ohio? good informative Video Curtis , thanks!
Yes actually
Plus 5 for storm work
I use shims but also have never had an issue with jam nuts with direct thread suppressors.
Crush washers are rarely if ever a good idea on any application that needs alignment maintained. They are soft, (have to be to seal) Shimming with hardened precision shims will maintain flat faces in register but even then you should have an alignment spigot as threads alone cannot accurately align parts .
Very informative!
I used a crush washer on mine because i needed the thickness of it to extend it out of my rail. It took about 4 crush washer, but I checked concentricity each time. If it wasn't concentric, I tossed the old crush washer and tried a new one. A crush washer is fine, if your muzzle device is aligned. Based off what I did, that was 25% of the time until I got it right. All others would've been a baffle strike. Drill rods come in handy!
So how do you remove a muzzle device that has rockset or your green stuff on it. "Forever" sounds like a no option ever again kind of solution, which I find unacceptable for an accessory.
blow torch
tk for the great info!
How about do we even need a crush washer for just a flash hider?
I use the copper washers work's for me.
I can make eny thinnest I want to get👍🏽
ODIN works 👍🏽 for my 308win
Should have race track ant on the channel again
Guys don't put Loktite on threads, use as many shims as needed. There is different thickness of shims.
I said use vibratite or Rocksett. I no longer advocate for vibratite and only use Rocksett. If you are advocating not using a chemical lock for your suppressor mount, you are simply wrong.
@@VSO_Gun_Channel most people don’t use threadlocker on their muzzle
thank you. great job
Very informative but I've actually never heard of anyone using a crush washer with suppressor anyways.
Probably because they would be too ashamed to admit they baffle struck and ruined their thousand dollar can lol
@@Xaiborg haha maybe 😂
I've always used a jam nut. Easier to time, and it's reusable.
How do you feel about using a crush washer on a 5.56 while using a 30 caliber can.
jrengo87 I had the same question but I think I’m just gonna shim it
DB Cooper I probably will too but I wanna know everything there is to know. BTW, did you get away with all your money or was it lost in the woods?
I am going to say it should be alright in this regard; however, once the thing carbons up if you man-bear-pig the can to get it off you may torque the can and the muzzle device off.
What about a linear comp? Say palmetto states or the KaK Flash Can?
Just put a kak can on my ar pistol, had to use a crush washer to time it. The website did say the washer wasn't necessary.
What would cause big inaccuracy but no baffle strikes?
So, why does Witt Machine send a crush washer with their cans?
Why is it so hard to remove 5/8x24 crush washers? I'm not over tightening but I do have my flash hider positioned to blow upwards.
@3:01 it looks like you are tightening the brake with a tool through the ports versus using the wrench flats on the brake. Why is that?
For normal people. Get a split washer and a good set of timing shims. Now you can remove and install any muzzle devices and suppressors without any loctite.
No. The split washer does the same thing. Use shims and Rocksett.
@@VSO_Gun_Channel I want to be able to use my custom muzzle brake and easily go silent mode when required. Without an acetylene torch or a spare crush washer.
@@johnviera3884 buy the dead air mount. You won’t go silent for long if you fuck up that alignment
@@VSO_Gun_Channel I’m not rich like you buddy Does that mount accept every single can?
@@johnviera3884 I’m not rich. But blowing up cans makes you poorer. No it does not, you have to check compatibility
What about a fake suppressor? No crush washer??? So no matter what use a crush washer right?
Thanks for the info I’m new to doing it the safe way and installing a device for removal or not. Thanks
What exactly is a baffle strike
I have a Franchi Momentum I want to use a Rugged razor on. Suppressor should be released from prison any day but I have the extra muzzle device that is going on the gun and the threads on the barrel do not go up to shoulder ... should i just buy a bunch more shims to fill the gap?
Question? Can i use a barrel nut with a thread protector on an ar barrel??? The reason i ask is because for one sometimes it comes loose. And for 2 sometimes i want the company sign at the top. But mainly because it comes loose.
So would you do the same on a direct thread can?
I think you do use a crush washer for Allen engineering AEM5 cans. For the mk12
They are playing with fire.
Considering their extensive use during the OEF and OIF campaigns, I wouldn't worry. Since the can aligns off the collar, not the muzzle device, as long as the muzzle threads are concentric to the bore, it shouldn't be an issue at all. As of late however they have been including shims rather than crush washers due to the repeated questions regarding the use of crush washers. I do see the benefit to the shims as not having to do too much work (both mine, had to turn almost 360 degrees to time properly and they were not that pleasant, would have been much easier if I had gotten a shim kit so it would have only required a 1/8 or 1/4 turn to torque)
I don't like crush washer no more
only copper washers is the best.
ODIN works
One clarification needed personally...is it ok to use a crush washer on a liner comp? KVP magnum 2.25 to be exact. KVP says it’s not necessary but I wonder if it also not advisable.
For a guntec gen 2 micro fake suppressor would you use a crush washer? It mounts on the barrel not over an A2
Direct thread and rocksett
Well done 👍
What about using a crush washer with the KAK Flash Can?
Crush washer cone forward or backward?
Use Flexbar Rockset...
Research several reputable resources, and see where the majority stands, then make a decision.
The assumption here the majority has the clarity of mind to make an informed decision not based on “never had a problem (with something I barely use)” and that they have considered the alternatives. At one point in time I would have agreed with you- that many people can’t be wrong right?
Yeah, yeah they can. I don’t believe anything the masses come up with these days until I’ve thoroughly vetted it myself.
@@VSO_Gun_Channel Absolutely correct. My point is don't just go along with some yocal or wannabe special forces operative. Do the research, general consensus can be helpful, and make your own informed decisions.✌🏽
Merry Christmas!🎅
My crush washer didn’t crush, it split. Couldn’t get it to align before splitting.
What about linear comp? I got one for my Glock and it came with one
If you overtime your brake by about 1/8-1/4 of an inch can you simply back it off and realign or do you have to turn another revolution?
was that a meridian defense hat?/ i just ordered a pestilence model AK from them, it has a 20 week lead time so i won't get it until late Dec or early Jan.
Can you do a video on how to keep a direct thread 5.56 can from backing off?
This video
So Rocksett?
Is there any other type of tang?
good video dude
I have a fake slip over suppressor and it wouldn't fit over my crush washer is it fine to use without it will it effect accuracy ?
So the muzzle device does not have to be extremely tight when using shims only? The thread lock will do the trick?
No! For timing the muzzle device times against the shoulder for alignment. The shims are for alignment the locking compound is to keep it there
Video idea....will all suppressors work on various threaded muzzle breaks
No, they are proprietary
Do I need a crush washer with a blast forward device like Spikes tactical Barking Spider?
Can you go into the specifics on timing/having a the brake settle where intended after torque?
This video is confusing and I got lost in the contradiction here...🤔
Starts off in saying do Not use crush washers with the suppessors... Then he goes on to showing us the crush washers and how to mount them?🤔...
Can anyone explain what is happening here?...
Those were not crush washers that he used on it.
@@BravoJulietAlpha
Ok
Alot of flash hiders,brakes and compensators absolutely need a crush washer to time them correctly! Never over torque them on the barrel shoulder
good info ....