2015-2020 F150 Wheel Bearing Replacement
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- čas přidán 20. 05. 2023
- I walk through step by step changing the wheel bearing on my 2018 F150. The passenger side front wheel bearing has started making noise when driving the truck. I walk through how to figure out which wheel bearing is having an issue, walk through myself changing the front passenger side wheel bearing, and then give some feedback after this DIY is completed.
Wheel Bearing: www.rockauto.com
Brake Caliper Hanger amzn.to/42IBVlA:
Bearing Grease: amzn.to/3MvRSWC
Small Pry Tools: amzn.to/3OdqVZ1
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All videos are for entertainment purposes only. Attempt these projects at your own risk! If you do, make sure you follow all manufacturers instructions! - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Parts and Tools Used in this video!
Wheel Bearing: www.rockauto.com
Brake Caliper Hanger amzn.to/42IBVlA:
Bearing Grease: amzn.to/3MvRSWC
Small Pry Tools: amzn.to/3OdqVZ1
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases
He nailed the sound with "it sounds like you're running mud tires" and gets louder. Also a faint squeak at take off. My driver's side on my '15 went out at 114k.
my 2015 is making that sound on the drivers side but it makes the sound when I turn left which is a little different than what I thought since he says when you turn left it will be right side, Either way I just ordered new hubs from A1Auto
Thank you very much for this. Both front hubs needed replacing and the dealer wanted $1800 to do it. Your video helped me do it for under $300. Much obliged!
1800 is the highest I’ve heard! You are welcome!
Great Video. I just ordered a set of hubs for my 2017 F150. Driver side is getting pretty bad and I'm doing front brakes on it anyways so figured I'd replace them as a pair.
Nice to see its a pretty straight forward job.
Thanks! It’s a good time to do them while you are doing brakes. It was a pretty easy job as long as things aren’t rusted up. When I did my brakes one of the caliper slides was rusted stuck.
Thank you! This video is what I wish all car tutorial videos were!
😂😂
Thanks for the feedback!
Thank you so much! The stealership wanted $650 to do this job. Me and my son shared this time together with your help!
You are welcome!
Great video - I'll be doing mine today, this helped out.
Great job man made it look easy
Thanks! It wasn't too bad.
Thanks man, worked great
This video saved my life. Appreciate it man!
Glad I could help!
BROOOO!! Saved me a ton of time and money that I would've spent going to a mechanic!!
Awesome!
Excellent video. Nice and to the point. I think if I have all my power tools laid out I can get this done in about 15 minutes lol. It is incredibly sad that these F150 unit bearings can and often fail at under 50k miles. We have a 2017 Platinum that now has the mud tire growl of death. Started growling at like 48k miles is all. I guess I know what I am doing next week! I don't think I've ever seen your channel before. I think we do a lot of the same stuff. Awesome and thanks again.
Thanks appreciate it! Yea it is crazy that they go that quickly. Awesome channel by the way! Love that LS Swapped ranger!
Good explanation, I couldn't of said it better myself! 😀
Thanks Bo!
Well done!! Thank you!
im not trying to be that guy but its always a good idea to sand the rust off where the new bearing seats, came to see the torque specs lol. its a 1 hr job. good luck fellas
dude thank you. this actually made this look very easy. mine is grinding terribly and i’m hoping it can make it another 100 miles, already have the replacement!
Good luck! It isn't too bad of a project as long as things aren't seized in there.
Good job!
Thank you for uploading this video. The video helped me locate the problem with my truck.
Glad it helped!
Thank you for your videos
You are welcome!
Great job! I have a little play in one of the rear wheel bearings on my 79 Corvette, I sure wish they were as easy to change as that!
Thanks Mitch! Same here with the older cars. Do you pack the grease and do it all yourself manually?
@@SmackeysGarage Yes, the Corvette's have to be set up with shims and runout checked with a dial indicator, they are a real pain! And there's no way to grease them afterwards, just have to pack them real good during installation. 👍
Thank you great job
You are welcome!
Thanks for the video. I may try to do my own on my 2018 f150 now.
You are welcome!
@@SmackeysGarage I did it today. The only real catch was that the rotor was rusted to the hub. It took some persuading with a wood block and hammer, but I got it done.🤣
Nice! Yea sometimes you need that big hammer to get those rotors off!!
Great video
Thanks!
Follow up question, are left and right side both the same ? I’m about to order it but it doesn’t specify on rockauto if left or right.
Not sure if this was stated in the comments already or in the video but i didn't see it. This is for a 4x4. The wheel bearing hub assembly for a rwd will not have the center spindle. Threw me when I got mine in from Rock Auto. Otherwise great video and thanks for showing how it's done!
That’s a great point. Thanks!
Thanks for the video! I have a 2016 F150 that has a horrible humming noise while traveling at various speeds. This could very well be my problem and your video will help me. I'm curious though and I didn't hear it mentioned. In addition to replacing both sides at the same time, would you suggest an alignment after a job like this?
Yes I would do both sides at the same time. You shouldn’t need an alignment because you aren’t adjusting or removing any of the suspension. If you notice any abnormal wear on the tires I would align it.
Also...don't install that center hex nut (the one that has a dust cap) until after you've installed and tightened the (4) bolts to the new bearing. When you do install that center hex nut, grab the axle by the CV joint right at the bearing and pull it in towards the bearing (towards you). Need to make sure the axle and bearing are fully seated, or at least enough, when you tighten that center nut. If the nut isn't at torque and isn't showing 3/8-to-1/2" thread, it ain't on there all the way.
I had to use a stubby 5# hammer to tap my old wheel bearing assembly off.
You are the life saving comment brother thank you!
Great job! Used it for my ‘18 and it was flawless.
Let me know if you do the track replacement on the sunroof!
Thanks! I'm hoping I don't have to do that... but it seems like most have to do it at some point.
I've had my sunroof done by the dealer about 6 times until they did it correctly, under warranty of course,lol!
I have a bad hub and am waiting on mine to be delivered. I have to drive meantime. Can I grease my bad one temporarily to help quieten it or no?
I doubt you would have any luck with it. Comes as an assembly and I wouldn't want to pull the old one apart to grease it and risk not being able to get it back together.
@@SmackeysGarage thanks. Just annoying noises I think I’ll make it til part arrives
Great video, nice and simple to follow. One question, did you get a front end alignment after replacing the hub assembly?
No I didn’t. I did not touch the suspension or anything that would impact the steering alignment.
@@SmackeysGarage ok that makes sense. And since u were replacing the hub assembly to “original” specs with a new one it should’ve been aligned. I’m just curious since previous vehicles I replaced bearings and hub assemblies I would get aligned just in case.
Do you know the 21MM bolt part number for replacement recommendation?
I always use the diagrams at Tasca's site to find the part number. I'm not sure the year of your truck, but check this out. This is an 18 5.0. www.tascaparts.com/v-2018-ford-f-150--xlt--5-0l-v8-flex/brakes--front-brakes
Do you have an electronic emergency brake and if so did you put the emergency brake in service mode before you started? You didn't mention anything about that, I'm just curious
I do have an electronic emergency brake. It’s part of the rear calipers. I did not put it in service position to do the front
I'm having a problem getting the original rotor off. No there's not a bolt holding it on. Any suggestions
Big hammer. If they get stuck I typically use a 5lb sledgehammer. They usually seize to the face of the hub. Can also tap around the hub.
What kind of grease did you use before you put the replacement on?
It is a Valvoline linked in the video description. Motorcraft also makes their own grease (XG-11)
Starting the truck to turn the hub and/or retract the 4wd actuator ring, requires stepping on the brake. The brake caliper is off the rotor so don’t forget your piston retraction tool!
I wouldn’t start it to move the wheel. The power steering is electric. You should be able to turn the key on and then twist if that is what you needed
@@SmackeysGarage I started it with no issues, light touch on the brake pedal. I’ll try without next time but I still think you need to start it to retract the actuator ring .(if you don’t have a vacuum pump )
Thanks 👍
@smackeysgarage How do you know if need a hub or just a bearing? (~$280 vs $10)?
I don't know if you are able to do the bearing only in the front. I believe in the front you must do the hub. If you find otherwise let me know. It's quite the assembly. I know looking at Rockauto, it is much easier to find a rear bearing only (no hub).
Pretty sure my left wheel hub needs replacing ('humming' goes away turning left, very noticeable turning right). But no warning lights, and no sound like 'rubbing' or scrapping. Replace now or wait?
You typically won’t get a warning light for it. Replacement is up to you, but you definitely know it’s on its way out. Personally I would rather than take a chance of a failure.
Hello I have a 2016 F150 Lariat 4x4 2.7 ecoboost. On some videos that I have watched, they use a mityvac. Do you think I need that on my Truck to do this? Sorry I am not an auto mechanic. Thanks
To do a wheel bearing replacement? No. I would seek some help from a friend with a project like this. Do you have a video where they show the use of a mityvac?
👍
You should get a vacuum pump to release the 4×4
Yea, I could have done that. Wasn't necessary though.
Great videos, appreciate you! Any chance you got a video coming on lower ball joint removal on these 18 F150s?
Thanks! I'll check mine out and see how it is early this spring when it warms up. How many miles on your truck?
2018 with 106k on her. Barely noticeable, can hear a jiggle with windows down on driveway potholes. Yet to jack it up and see 100%. Bout to find out this weekend. Have breaks sitting waiting to go on. Also had advan Trac light pop on once or twice. Gonna replace speed sensors while I'm down there.
Sounds like a lower ball joint, you are right. I'm at ~76k so I'm getting up there too.
Raise it by the lower arm n pull up on tire with pry bar to get an accurate verdict? I got no movement by hand when changing oil.
@joshlamport5489 that is the way I’d check it. Sometimes hard to see on trucks until it’s really bad.
Was your wheel bearing causing the advance track light to come on?
It was not, but I could see if it was gone so badly, it could cause it to come on.
Where is a good place to find torque specs for 2017 f150. Great video.
I usually google it and there will be a few sites that pop up. Typically the forums are good sources of this information for us who do not have service manuals. I'd check this site and then crossreference across a forum. ford-specs.com/cars/2017/f1503.5/torque-specs_front.php
Thank you I appreciate the input. Videos are awesome and a life saver. Thanks again
Thanks for the feedback!! You are welcome.
Hey buddy why am I having such a hard time unplugging the abs sensor up top. It’s not budging. Any ideas?
I'm not sure. I can go check my truck tomorrow if there is a slide you need to pull out but I thought it was only necessary to bend the tab out of the way then pull.
@@SmackeysGarage I got it man ! No worries thanks for the reply. I appreciate your videos.
@@joshwhite3229 glad to hear!! Thanks!!
Grat video buddy!!! I jush someone would be straight up and say how much it was cost either parts and labor or just labor. Thank again for that video.
You can look up the cost for the parts on tasca ford online.
I can’t find the 4wd hub retail price but the 2wd hub is $503 alone from Ford
How many miles were on your original wheel bearings? Thanks
Around 60k miles. Up here in New England the suspension takes a beating.
@@SmackeysGarage thanks. 58k on mine and I just used your videos to do the brakes as the back were gone. Front had lots of life yet, but the bottom guide pins where both tight, so replaced it all.
@onionriverranch sounds like you had the same scenario as mine. Back were gone, sliders in mine were frozen. I probably could have reused the front rotors and pads if I replaced the brackets. Mine also had a lot of life in them. Thanks for watching!
386k on mine
Great video! 3 - 4 hr job if you do yourself?
If nothing goes wrong probably an hour per side max. If you have to replace parts it could be longer.
Don't you have to use a vacuum pump to disengage the 4x4 actuator ?? ..
No I didn’t have to.
My f150 2017 5.0 when I ride on dirt roads I feel a clicking noise in the steering wheel I already took it for inspection and everything is fine with everything that is suspension it could be someone who has experience with their f150 who has been through the same thing thank you
Might want to check on the IWE. When mine was going it randomly made a clicking noise and then a grinding noise.
Did you notice if you had any issues with your 4x4 with the bad wheel bearing ? I have my driver side going on and it won’t go into 4x4 anymore. Comes up with a check 4x4 icon
I didn't see that issue but I could see if it isn't registering the right speed it may not allow you to use 4x4.
@@SmackeysGarage I appreciate your reply. I also think I may have a bad hub actuator. The bearing has been making some noise for a little bit now I’d assume. Had my big wheels and tires on it for summer and recently went to my stocks for winter and noticed the sound was loud from the bearing. Going to check my vacuum on it and see where that gets me.
@robertbauer6924 that happened to my last truck. It was more of a big grinding noise and metal on metal than a bearing. When those do go they tend to make a lot of noise. (At least in my 2011 it did).
@@SmackeysGarage mine sounds like a bearing, had my shop look at it when he did an alignment and said I had some minor play in the tire. I’m thinking the bad bearing has hurt or compromised the iwe causing the 4x4 to not engage
@@B0bBau3r that makes sense. On the older truck swapping it out wasn’t that bad.
Did you go with an OEM replacement?
If one was available I would have gone with it. Unfortunately no matter where I went I couldn’t find one. Ended up with one from Rock Auto.
What kind of warranty that come with?
12 Months.
The Motorcraft ones are back in stock at RockAuto now and have a 24 month warranty.
5:16 ? Did you not pulll back the 4x4 actuator ?
I did not when I changed out the hub
@@SmackeysGarage but that’s how the axel tightens up with the wheel bearing ( How ford recommends to do it ) asides from that tiny 13 mm bolt . I’ve seen people put vacume into it and some not.
Interesting that some do it and some don’t. I do have a vacuum pump (manual one) that I could have pulled it in with if it needed it.
Is this a 4wd truck?
Yes
I only hear the noise when 2H is active. Not sure if that narrows it down to the hub/bearing. When I engage 4h it goes away.
Also how do the aftermarket fair compared to OEM? Seems like they are either backordered or way overpriced
That’s interesting when you engage 4h is goes away. Do you notice it only when driving straight?
For the aftermarket vs OEM… you’re kind of stuck running the aftermarket right now (like me). I would have bout OEM or Moog if they were in stock. Instead I bought the highest end rock auto one that was available. 10k miles and still going strong.
That sounds exactly like actuator issue for the 4x4 system.
Most likely part of your 4WD vacuum system is starting to fail. When the system doesn't hold vacuum the IWE actuators in the front hubs start to partially engage and make a chattering or grinding sound. You can borrow a vacuum tester from an auto parts store and test each side to see if it's a bad IWE or bad lines/check valve. There are some good videos on YT that will walk you through the process.
Just FYI, your bearing will never come out this easy 😂
Good explainer though
I've never seen one just fall out like that! I do agree.Thanks!
Your truck is not four-wheel-drive, is it
It is four wheel drive.
Is this 4x4?
Yes
@@SmackeysGarage
Thank you 🙏 will try to knock out this weekend.
@SmackeysGarage Follow up question, is there a left and right ? Rockauto does not specify.
I don’t believe so.
Hey Sir! We sincerely look for a video collaboration with you! Are you interested in trying our F-150 custom seat covers?
Hi! We DM your IG.
Don’t you need a vaccum for this?
I did not.
@@SmackeysGarage does this vehicle have 4 wheel drive
@@StevennH1 yes it does. When I did my truck, I did not need to disengage anything related to the iwe when replacing the wheel bearing.
Sad sad video. testament to the crap quality of modern cars. 2018 truck. ALREADY needing a bearing. i have a 1990 1500 with original bearings in it. Still solid. 180K miles. Nothing but chinese junk these days.
To be fair. Our roads where are drive it are filled with deep potholes and the suspension takes a beating.
That's a good point I didn't consider.@@SmackeysGarage
My 2020 F-150 already has 163,000 miles, and front passenger wheel bearing is going
That's crazy. I hope it's under warranty bud.@@holdonsnow1028
@@holdonsnow1028my 2017 drivers side went out at exactly 163 too. Lol but it did take a massive hit from a big ass deer that busted the Iwe and let some trash get in there.