These two simple hacks will make your engine last longer | Auto Expert John Cadogan
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- čas přidán 14. 04. 2021
- Modern cars clog up on the inlet side - the inlets clog up, commonly. Not every car, but some. This is a symptom - not a disease. Simply cleaning the inlet doesn’t cure the underlying problem.
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The disease could be a defective EGR or PCV, or diluted oil, or a defect in the inlet air plumbing. So that’s three potential hardware problems: (EGR, PCV or plumbing). And one operational problem: Diluted oil.
If it’s hardware, that needs to be investigated, and the defective part(s) replaced. But diluted oil is something you can address yourself. It means more sludge gets into the PCV, and gets baked in the inlet by hot EGR. Diluted oil is a consequence of not driving long enough to get warm enough to purify the oil.
Diluted oil also doesn’t lubricate your engine very well. So it wears out earlier. It’s a consequence of too many cold starts and too many short trips, as a proportion of overall operation. And you can sometimes confirm it if you see the oil level increase on the dipstick in your car.
People say ‘fit a catch can’ - but this too is a Band-Aid - there’s still diluted oil ‘down there’ and it’s not protecting your engine very well. You’re just catching some contaminants before they make it into your engine’s inlet.
The obvious thing to do is get out on the highway regularly. (It’s not just diesels that benefit from sustained running - all cars do.)
The other thing you need to do is change your oil more frequently. If you’re a short-distance driver doing lots of cold starts, get an oil change every six months instead of the specified 12. It’ll pay for itself in reduced wear and repair costs. Operating a car in this way is hell on earth for engine oil. It doesn’t seem so, but it is.
So this is two things, right? (As opposed to one or the other.) More highway and twice as many oil changes as specified. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
My elderly father always drummed it in to me, that regular oil and filter changes are cheap insurance for the engine!
Great video, cheers John!
YES - learn how to do 2 things change oil & filters (oil, motor air, aircon cabin... filters) in addition, between your normal service intervals.
Welcome to 2021, when changing the oil in your car is now classified a "Life Hack"
(Love your work John :) )
I see where you're going. Unfortunately manufacturer's seem to be heading towards a point where knowing what's under the bonnet, let alone the state of everything under there, is impossible or might threaten a warranty if dreamed about. People have happily forgotten about maintenance because of this. Eventually, unless something breaks, people will only think about issues if told by a computer that something is wrong.
This is especially important for modern Diesel engines
Great advice thanks mate. I actually had some chats and got a quote with your company. Wow they were so lovely, so helpful, no pressure to take it and they gave me heaps of advice when I go into see other dealers.
Great to see you out and about John; great advice as always🙂👍
i totally fit this demographic. since we retired its a trip to town or the supermarket. 1 km and 1/2 km respectively. i do try to go out for a drive in the country to air our brains and look at the beach at least once a fortnight. we have a new outlander and yes the service interval is 1 year of 15000km. however, i have been in the habit of changing oil at 5000km for many years. our old escape we had for 20 years, was still mechanically sound and purred along beautifully. it was the gearbox that failed sadly. so it seems i have been doing the right thing all these years.
Just wondering was the gearbox an automatic and did you have that serviced every 40 000 kms
I walk to the shop because it's only 3 kilometres return.
In fact I never drive my car unless I'm leaving town.
Any less than 8 kilometres and you're inly doing damage to the engine
The art of making a 30 second video last 10 minutes.
In one take too.
Succinct is not a word in his vocabulary. He doesn't understand that repeating the same joke doesn't make it funnier either.
@@sjbechet1111 no one is making you watch John’s videos.
You can put clowns on 2x speed to milk their minimal knowledge as fast as possible
That's what I subscribe for!!
Weird Flex to waste your OWN TIME, then critique the person least responsible.🤔
Great insight on a simple fix that easily would get overlooked. Cheers for another great episode. 👍
Another great review John! Thank you and keep up the great job you're doing!
Vids coming thick and fast John, I like it.
Thank you John, once again I have learnt many new engineering details from yourself. Legend!
Great advice John, thanks.
Great video John as always. Informative and entertaining 👌
Love your work John...So honest.
👍 Oils Cheap, Engines are Expensive
Yes just DIY change engine oil every 2000 miles. But on some cars, it's pain in the neck to change engine oil
Sound like a Scotty Kilmer comment. LOL
Thanks John, great tip.
Thanks John! very valuable.
Love your work John 👍😊
Loving the frequent content John :)
I get my car serviced every 6 months as I don’t drive it much. Glad to know I’m doing the right thing. Also great advice about the distance driving.
Sounds like a really good idea. Thumbs up.
change my oil and filter every 6 months whether it needs it or not, buy oil on special when it comes up like 20 litres at a time, i do like my car so cheap insurance costs me about 50 $ a change and the time to do it.
Yes - it's not exactly a major investment in money or time.
Yep... ditto. Pretty regularly you can get 5l for under $10. We buy 3 which will do 2 oil changes... good quality filter is bugger all. Local mechanic does the bigger services.
Waste of oil.
@@aygwm it can be recycled
Your local tip will have a oil drop off point
Yup, same here. Buy oil in 20/25 litre packs and half a dozen quality filters when i see them on offer.
3000 miles the very most between oil changes, and that's when the running is fairly normal, been as low as 2k when lots of short hops involved.
Oil change costs me a total of £25 on one car and £32ish on the other which has a 7.5 litre sump.
Been decades since i had an engine or running issue, do all my own servicing, garages trying to charge about £70 for one sumpful of oil alone when i can get 20 litres of good synthetic from £80 to £100 delivered straight to my door.
Same applies to other aspects such as proper brake servicing, which almost no garage does correctly any more, decades since i needed to replace a brake caliper.
Great Video, Great advice!
The funny thing is these 6 month oil changes are actually written in your manual under the conditions described so you basically just follow the user manual
Thanks John,
Very good advice. Love the humour as well 😀
Indeed. But I'm pretty sure it won't be followed. In most cases it's hard enough to get drivers to put their cars in for a major service, let alone an inbetween one as well.
Great Advice John
First class advice John, have always done as you suggested here, have to say in 39 years of driving my only breakdown was a clutch cable on a Ford Granada. Engines have never let me down 🙂
You can be forgiven for the cable, Andy.
@@AutoExpertJC Maybe I should have changed it for preventative maintenance reasons, but I was young and most of my brain power went on chasing Ming Molls 👄 (still does I think..)
Ford Capris had the same issue... broke right in the middle of the city in peak hour... the tow truck operator caused 2 grand worth of damage getting it on his flat top...WTF! all that to replace a $10 cable. 😫😖😥😋
I always take my kids to the local skidpad for a fortnightly burnout... two problems solved... Commodore inlet tracts cleared and kids outlet tracts given a good workout. 😁😋
Great to see you outside your studio/garage.
That would be the fat cave.
No one goes to the city anymore. 😂
Eventually, you have to venture out to get your supply of toilet paper. 🤣😋
Wife kicked him out.
@@Ka9radio_Mobile9 She was fed up with John always chasing her around, claiming he can give her inlet passage a treat. 😂🤣😋
Great advice as always and a simpler solution than all the aftermarket suppliers of catch cans and inlet cleaning solutions would have you believe.
Thanks, John.
Yep, all excellent advice.
Win win for all here - love the outdoor vids!
You really do have a lot of automotive knowledge John.
Sound advice Mr Cadogan 👍
Just started watching your CZcams videos and l like the way you separated the truth from the bull dust being polite in the motor vehicle industry very funny at times well done
Great video John
Thank you.
Aircraft piston engines have a mandatory 100 hour oil and filter change limit. The oil in these engines is always clean. Your life depends on it.
if you average say 60 kms in an hour of driving that's 6000 kms.
If you're travelling in outback Australia your life could well depend on how well you have serviced your vehicle engine and gearbox .
Thanks.. totally true
My pleasure. You're welcome.
1. Never skip the time interval oil change if it comes before the mileage (it might be even more important than the mileage interval in some cases).
2. Use high quality synthetic oil with the grade recommended by the manufacturer (check service book and don't rely on their advice: some Asian car dealers put 0w-20 to get better fuel economy but when you check the manual you'll see that a higher viscosity might be recommended).
3. Use oils that have the manufacturer recommended standards (ACEA/API, or any other standard that it's requested: VW, BMW, Renault, etc) or else you might damage things like high pressure fuel pumps, turbocharger shafts, catalytic converters, etc.
4. Don't change the brand/standards (ACEA/API) too often, since each has an additive package that might not work very well when mixed with the other one (you cannot completely drain the old oil and with every oil change some mixing occurs).
5. Check oil at regular intervals (top up if necessary, and note the consumption rate).
6. If your cars burns a lot of oil, DO NOT, increase the cold viscosity like most mechanics recommend: from 5w-40 to 10w-40. This will just cause even more wear during cold starts, while doing nothing when the engine is warm (when the oil is thin and is actually going past the piston rigns or valve seams, or whatever leaks there are). Try changing the brand of oil.
7.(optional) Learn to change the oil yourself and you'll afford even more expensive and better oils and filters together with shorter intervals if necessary and still be a lot cheaper than going to a mechanic. (please dispose the oil safely to a recycling center).
Thanks John!
I drive 5km to work where my car temp gauge does not even increase by one bar before reaching 😫😫
I change my oil with every tire swap season but will also consider more highway! Last year I made a good highway drive from Toronto to Ottawa 997 kms return trip! Wish to do more of that.
#winter #Canada
In colder climates John I think the perfect engine oil/block heater or investing in a heated garage space does wonders to reduce long-term engine wear. But short of that, good fresh oil is the next best thing, that requires a bit of excellent craft in the engine itself as well. 🤙🏻
I live east of Alaska. Just change your oil more often. Use 0W oil and change your oil 2 or 3 times a year. Been doing this for close to 40 years and have had no engine problems. I don't plug in my block heater unless it is colder that -40C.
Thanks John, an ocean of information as always. I always look forward to your video drops.
Very kind, Spoonie. You're welcome.
URM thanks you for the product placement.
Another good advice John. Here in europe, manufacturers service schedule are mostly 30k or two years which is ridiculous, having hot summers and really cold winters imo. I was growing up in different times and do my oil and filter changes every 10 to 15k max. Surprisingly, my cars don't suffer common problems mentioned by you. Coincidence? I don't think so. By the way, if i'm driving in town more than often, I take it for decent motorway blast every few weeks as well, it does work for my cars. Great video as usual John.
Hanging around the bins in a Sydney laneway does this tell us anything .love your work
Haha. Wife finally threw him out 😂😂😂
John is a very tidy boy and always puts his Fantales lollies wrappers in the bin. 😂🤣😋
I dare him to walk around China Town at 5am ............Rats the size of cats
After lock down, he likes to get out 😂
I subscribed because you stuck it up Bruz ✊
Finally you are out of the garage,,, show us some Australia too
What a mean smile...love it.
Do more of these
I have a 2007 VW Diesel Caddy that I have had since new. Been doing this since the warranty expired (kinda) . Now approaching 350k. Still runs great. Though I wouldn't buy another VW, couple of times the customer service has been less than good. And there was that Dieselgate incident......
How lovely to see you out in the real world from the Fat Cave!
What lovely locations you were at also. Lovely.
Old buildings, Shrubbery, Rubbish Bins. People even!
Another teaching video too JC. Reckon you may have missed your calling.
#LetMeAtYourKidsIllTeachThem!
#MALS
I like it when I recognise all the locations in a video. Martin Place, Hyde Park and alleys around Surry Hills. Heading towards BMW Sydney in Paddo methinks.
@@heaposan Ah. All Irish to me here in Tauranga, NZ.
Looks a neat part of SYD.
@@graysono It’s called a “city”. A bit like Auckland but bigger. 😀
In the back alley with a manbag and 8 inch flashlight looks a bit suspicious to me. 😂😋
@@mael-strom9707 Super bright LED 8 inch one too!
Brilliant John. Retired and the cold start short trips are a regular thing. Golf down the freeway twice a week down the freeway keeps the engine healthy. Just rotate cars around that.
Ha! saw the script "U R" on the bin at 7.01........ great info which is now "common" sense. Thanks John.
That answers my question I had the other morning. Good on BMW for sending you home in another car. I was worried you may have been stranded in the Sydney CBD otherwise.
This was EXCELLENT ! And great to see John shooting outside. Very sensible advice. And I only ever think of these things in terms of engine longevity. I hadn't joined the dots to the opportunity savings. Thank you John.
great advice John, totally agree with you, I just doubt it a little bit who is willing to do servicing twice more often when so many people don't even do their regular servicing in appropriate time...
Jeez, looking very tacti-cool there mate.
Good advice. Oil change every 6 months essential for low annual mileage cars. I do it myself with a pump. It's easy.
Waste of oil. Synthetic lasts years in an engine.
@@aygwm at £3 a litre, I'm happy to waste it!
@@carsonj1 correct. But if it’s just sitting in a car that’s not being driven, it stays fine for a really long time. Oil doesn’t go bad like food goes bad from sitting. It goes bad from being abused and never heated up.
@@aygwm Exactly. I generally do short journeys. I change my oil twice a year. A small price to pay to protect my engine.
Carefull John what you said makes sense and stuff. I own a car that travels at most 1000k,s a year and I change the oil and filter twice a year. PS I work on cars for a living.
Great advice as applies to petrol moters as always run better after a long run.makes sense good info.👍
"Moters"?
@@AutoExpertJC Yes. Moters. They need their oiyal changed often John.
Great comment John. I’ve been doing oil and filter changes in my cars every 5000km for the last 20 years. I can get pricey when you do 40,000km/year, but now I’ve reverted to a new car again (the Saabs were just getting too unreliable even with the preventative servicing) and fewer kms. I feel it is much more important. Except I took your advice and let your 5 ‘approved’ companies vie for my hard earned and bought a Mazda CX-5 GT (poo brown leather is just not my thing). I am also in discussions with my mechanic to go one step further and change the Aisin gearbox oil every 20,000km. He is telling me that Volvo, Saab and Mazda (and I assume many other car makers) use these gearboxes in the various models. Volvo recommends a gearbox oil change every 80,000km and has had quite a few (according to him) die, with the owner up for a $5,000 dollar repair bill. Saabs recommend 60,000km or 80,000km depending on the model and have had fewer issues. Mazda is also 60,000km for auto gearbox oil transfusions (I’ve been told), but I feel if I keep the oil new every 20,000km there should be no reason for the gearbox to poo poo itself as these other makers have had happen. Thanks you for a most entertaining perspective of Australia’s automotive world. Lloyd
+1 for regualar service intervals. I just had to do a head gasket on my car, and when the mechanic pulled the head off, there was absolutely no sludge or contaminants anywhere in this 18 year old block. I've been doing 6 month oil changes (myself, because it's $60 and can be done from the convenience of your driveway). I almost never leave the "grid' with the car for long drives, but I do ensure it goes WFO at least once every 10 minutes (once warm) to prevent buildup. However, now I need to service the driveshafts.
So good! Can you do a review on the fuel doctor?
Great video John well said will help people understand abit more about car maintenance.. anyone who buys my cars get 80% highway driving and 20 city driving my current car is 6 months old and has 16k on it so mines all good 😁
I get to see the dealer every 6 months but it's good to have capped price servicing yay
John thanks for this timely video. I've been down a rabbit hole on this subject for the last six months. You've explained it for me in 10 minutes !
I live in a rural area where every trip is a minimum of half an hour with oil at 90C. Still the VW dealership tried to tell me my Passat TDI needed an added extra " upper air intake clean" to remove carbon build up at 45K. Their claim was that my short trip driving warranted some expensive WD40 sprayed into the manifold. I declined and contacted NRMA technical support who told me the process offered was next to useless.
This added extra wasn't on any service info I could find and when I contacted VW Australia they would neither confirm or deny the need for a service add on for carbon build up.
Solid advice. Missed option 2 - buying an ev for your town runabout.
John, I wonder what effect this would have for all these newer PHEVs coming to market with ever longer battery ranges. Are we going to see issues with these vehicles if they only run their engines for 10% of the typical mileage or the odd highway trip, or will the wear from low temperature loads be less significant if they occur less often? Disclaimer: Owning an older PHEV, I have a vested interest in this answer.
Got a 2011 MB w204 C250 1.8L.
Tells me on the dash ‘time for a service. Do the oil and all filters.
Address any spot fires as they happen. It’s now 13 years old.
Been a great car for me. It’s all about how you think and act.
Agree with you wholeheartedly.
The car loves a good fast, long run.
My favorite Aussie
EGR passage too, if you have one. The exhaust cools in the upper n they tar shut. Its the gas so it varies by location.
Love your work johno 💪🏼👍🏽🇦🇺👌🏼🤣☝🏼
Great info. Love the Doomsday prepper cosplay too 🤣
Great video John.. Really keen to hear your opinion on the M3 ride quality and if it's too harsh for daily use..
As a mechanic, johns all over it
i do have a question why am i watching a car video at 5.30am 😂
You NEED a TURBO in your life.....
Because it is irresistible.
@@AutoExpertJC 😂
Why am I still scrolling comments at 6am???
@@jgoncalodm got one 😁
I got into the routine of oil change every 5k in Berlingo diesel, or every 5th tank of fuel. Standard interval was 15k. Plus it got a decent long drive at least once a month.
Absolutely spot on,he’s right about short journeys where the engine never reaches its operating temperature and consequently sump oil dilution sets in,for every gallon of fuel you use approximately one gallon of water is produced depending on the weather and outside temperature both of which create different amounts of water when the engine is running. Buying expensive long live oil’s is not the solution to the problem even though the oil companies say it is,running high mileages and long distances may well stop most of the dilution issues but does stop all the muck,carbon deposits Ect, sloshing around the engine for long periods,using a less expensive oil and charging it every six months for local journeys and twelve months if your doing longer journeys is the better option if you can afford it,more important if your running a diesel to do this because a cleaner engine will last a lot longer than one clogged up with contaminates.
I own a 2012 VW GTI. It has slightly more than 60k miles/ 100K kM on it. (Beautiful car, highly recommend) and I change oil (pure synthetic) every 6 months. Still runs like new.
As a mechanic myself this is the best advice given ever. It's something I have been doing for years
My vs2 commodore passed 1.05 million KMs with no major issues (excluding PS pumps). Changed the oil and filter every 6k, even reused after filtering through shirts occasionally. Cheap oil fine, just change often, it works.
Love em Hohn
Legend 👍👍👍
I'm 79 and a bit old school. When I told my optometrist recently that I changed me own oil he clearly didn't believe me and kept saying things like there was no place to get rid of the old oil. Changing your own oil is a nuisance rolling around on the carport frigging around with my Echo's oil filter that never comes off easily, but it sure is cheaper than having it done. These dealers you talk about - what are they? My rule is simple - change it often - I shoot for 5000ks. Some weeks I might not do a good run, but I almost never go a fortnight without doing a 40-50 mile trip. Thats a good tip. BTW I use a good synthetic and I still notice that the engine sounds happier on the new oil.
PEUGEOT 505STI which I owned for 16 years completed 513000 km with regular oil changes every 5000km and many long drives eg 8 times across the Nullarbor from Bowral
and superb cruising ability and comfort ( 2003 to 2016)
Awesome video. Is there a simple cheat/check sheet with these questions for the dealers. You know they will want to talk car tech and most of us don't know that stuff. But we can give it to them and say these need to addresses.
Being. Very old. This information has never changed.
Being young and no knowledge of anything practical.
Then this information.
Will save you lots of time and. A small fortune 😉😉
Invent a sensor that lights up when the oil is diluted
Great advice John! I've always doubled the oil change interval, and never regretted it (change at 5000km instead of 10000km)
You've halved the interval, dude. 5000 is half of 10,000.
That's just stupid and a waste of money and natural resources .
"never regretted it "
Over servicing can stuff with you warranty as well.
A later model engine is more likely to die by driving it like a pussy. Direct port efi is not your friend. Clagged up valves will kill your engine way faster the an over due oil change these days.
@@fredderf551
Changing the oil will only stuff your warranty if you put the wrong grade or spec in. If your timing chain snaps and you have 2 month old oil in and your last book service was 8 months ago they cannot and will not use that as an excuse for warranty denial.
Clogged valves can be cleaned by yourself every year or so, but changing the oil will cause less oil dilution and less airborne oil particle and reduce ‘clagging’. Simple stuff really.
@@graemeottey8131
"Changing the oil will only stuff your warranty if you put the wrong grade or spec in."
Over servicing can stuff with you warranty. Which part didn't you understand ? The over or the servicing part.
"If your timing chain snaps and you have 2 month old oil."
1 You're in a world of pain. Values, pistons bang.
2 A chain that's old school.
3 Shitty oil will not break a timing chain
"ago they cannot and will not use that as an excuse for warranty denial"
Why not? I do it ,nothing is said. Ill null a warranty so fast if a person doesn't comply with servicing in the warranty booklet. I know this is going to be hard for you to understand, but the people that built the car actually know how it works and how to look after it. Hence, the servicing booklet.
"Clogged valves can be cleaned by yourself every year or so"
So your car has run lean for a whole year or so. Yep that's healthy, Ill go with the shitty oil. You don't work on engines with direct port efi, you send them to be recycled.
"Simple stuff really."
You have no idea what you a talking about. I don't know why you even commented.
The king dick cometh.
I find that Black Sambuca assists in the removal of any blockage/s I may have...depending on the amount of blockage the non-diluted Sambuca req'd is around 2 x 700ml/tank....no family wishes to be around when the time comes for the blockage to remove itself however...I will take your advice onboard and make sure that this a 6mthly operation with a Chivas addition just before Christmas...
Im lucky everywhere is 50km along the Hume. So when my fan doesnt stop running after I have switched off the car, I drive it another 50 to burn off the dpf. Job done for another month.
My BMW diesel came up with an “oil level above max” message. Under warranty. New oil, clean out the applicable regeneration filters etc. That was when my primary drive was
You only get a diesel if you're doing a lot of k's...
Always very good advice on these videos of John's. Interesting that my independent mechanic has exactly the same advice, he changes the oil every 5000 km and says the 1.5 L Toyota engine will last my lifetime if we keep doing that.
anything will if u fix it
I've had my car for about 3 years now and I've only driven it about 8000klm.
I had a service done by a mechanic about 2 years ago and I've changed the oil myself a couple of times since then.
The car runs sweet.
Get advice in a funny way🤣
John! Just replaced two tyres on my pig carrier a couple of hours ago, it handles much smoother and safer now! (what would you know, tyres with actual existing treads perform better, even on rain, yesssss!)
Thanks for all the hints about this on your other videos, mate! This is how you actually make a difference on people's lives (helping people keeping themselves alive!), even here in Upsidedownistan Portugal.
By the way, one thing I've never seen addressed nearly anywhere: I've mounted the new tyres in the back. The existing ones were in pristine condition so they were moved to the front and the new ones went to the back. People I know in the transport industry claim this is the best, safest and more economical way of changing tyres. Any comments on this, John? Thanks a HUGE lot, mate!
Even better if you can rotate tyres consistently and have them all wear out at the same time, but putting the new on the rear and moving the rear to the front runs a close second. Rear tyre rubber tends to go hard before they wear out, especially in modern FWD vehicles, so it's good to get some wear on them before they have to be tossed anyway - and putting the best tyres on the rear makes the handling more predictable than having great steer tyres and not knowing when the rear is going to break loose. And since the crappy tyres are on the front, they'll wear out faster, so need to be replaced sooner - which is what you want when they're crappy, so it's a win all round. :-)
@@aussiebloke609 Yeah that's something along those lines that I've been told. Good durability while having better security. And it's cheaper to buy them 2 at a time instead of 4.
Thanks for chiming in!
@@Bigvs.Dickvs Really? What if you just assumed that 2 half worn out tyres needed replacing but just keep the money for later, then use that plus some more to buy all 4 tyres when needed, wouldn't that be the same? Or actually buy some new tyres on special but keep them until fitting time, you could save some money. On the other hand often I've seen Buy 3 and the fourth one is Free. So no, 2 is not cheaper than 4 overall.
In 'Straya, over-regulation is a function of, and proportional to, our under-engineered road system.
The service interval on my Mazda2 has always been 6 months & i keep to that. An oil change is needed at every service. $200 isn't that bad for the preventitive maintenance - "you can pay me now OR, PAY ME, LATER".
A lot of people whinge about the service intervals on many Japanese cars being only 6 months, but I reckon that's at least part of the reason why they're so reliable. Says the dude that's known a 2005 Honda Jazz since new that's been serviced every 6 months and only broke down once (catalytic converter crapped out in 2020).
Very true - underengineered roads and over serviced motors, but rightly so, religiously
John "wears two pairs of sunnies" Cadogan. Nice to see you in town mate!
One pair are X-ray specs for the ming molls. 😂🤣😋
Yeah its called reading glasses and then sunglasses.
Another thing, after a big drive, the oil on your dipstick can go straight from F to Add in one tank if you've only done really short driving before. Save yourself $20 and carry a 1L bottle of oil from Super Cheap if the car is going beyond Metro Melbourne for the first time in its life, than be ripped off at the servo for oil.