Fenix HM75R | One of the Best Work Headlamps Right Now!
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- čas přidán 25. 06. 2024
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Available at Longhorn Tactical
Fenix HM75R - rebrand.ly/HM75R
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0:00 - Intro
0:44 - Unboxing
1:42 - Overview
4:04 - Operation Guide
6:41 - The Specs!
7:33 - Personal Thoughts
9:45 - Outro
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The "Red" mode should be the first position on the dial after "Off" so you don't have to cycle through "White" modes to get to it. The whole point of red headlamps is to preserve your night vision. Getting brief flashes of white light on your way to "Red" will mess that up
👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼this right here. My thoughts exactly.
What do you mean by “your night vision”?
@@blakemckenzie1946 Like, your pupils dilating so your eyes adjust to the dark. Bright white light from a headlamp makes your pupils contract and it takes a bit for you to re-adjust to the dark once you turn it off. Red light supposedly doesn't have this effect to nearly the same extent which is why some headlamps have a red light mode. Having to "navigate" through white light modes to get to the red mode defeats the purpose somewhat
This seems like a really innovative light, and I'll probably be picking one up. For longer backpacking trips I typically take an 18650 headlamp, plus an extra cell and the Nitecore LC10 which I can use to top up my phone (which I use sparingly for maps/gps and photos). This seems like a much simpler and less cumbersome solution, although probably slightly heavier.
Your flashlight reviews are enlightening! Can't wait to see more and learn about the latest gadgets. Subscribed and eager for the next beam of content!
I'm most interested in the working time chart. Manufacturers most often play on customers' ignorance, because the customer does not know the power drop. Fenix is currently showing a time and power graph... To make it more fun, sometimes it's to your detriment. And sometimes to the detriment of the client ;). The only sensible hm65r model is the Super Raptor version. All the others are pathetic when it comes to stabilizing power at the level of 130-180lm. For this money it's a joke. The plastic wh23r has perfect stabilization at 180lm but it is much cheaper and made of plastic.
I noticed the channel didn't respond to your comment, why is that , were they intimidated? And since I'm asking, and you seem very knowledgeable, what headlamp do you personally use on a regular basis that is very bright, illuminates an area well and has very good run time on a charge? That you could recommend
@@AllGoodOutsidehy, I have the nebo 1500. A very good head lantern. Using it in fishing at night. And at a very good reasonable price. Give it a look. Cheers.
@@inSaNe_44 Thanks Bud! I will check it out 👍
@@AllGoodOutsideWhen it comes to headlamps, it depends on what you care about. When you need a cheap and versatile flashlight/headlamp, I recommend the Wurkkos HD15. From Fenix I got the old hm65r SUPER Raptor model, which does not have such power drops, but these are older diodes that are not as efficient as today's ones. Although there is a great Raptor 2 on the Scandinavian market. Unfortunately, the entire series of expensive Fenix or Nitecore headlamps have large power drops, and what's worse, they can reduce power even in medium mode. The mentioned WH23R is an interesting model that has perfect stabilization in low and medium modes, when you turn it on it holds perfectly until the end. In the high mode, which should actually be called turbo, the drop is from 300lm to about 180lm within 90s (the drop starts after 60s - there is a timer, because it is the same every time. So the max is 600lm for 90s and drops to about 350 , for one reflector it drops to, let's say, 175lm. The whole world is based on understatements... And this model is one of the most honest ones on the market, just to make things more fun - for example, the wh23r made of polycarbonate/plastic maintains the power of 175lm, and the much more expensive hm65r drops in power. up to 130lm, and it's made of a magnesium alloy lol, that's a shame.
@@AllGoodOutsideAnd if you want a work light and a cheap AA one, this is the headlamp I use a lot - Energizer Hardcase 325lm on 3XAA. Very simple - two independent mechanical buttons, two modes, one for each lamp. One is highly dispersed and the other is concentrated, but with a large hot apot for a short distance. For a work lamp - great. It has been lit for hundreds of hours in my workshop and it works. The downside is that it is quite heavy, although it spreads out a bit because the batteries are on the back of the head. Coming back to what I recommend, cheap and without current stabilization, the Wurkkos HD15 in the neutral version has a great Samsung LH351D diode, which gives a very pleasant neutral light.
This headlamp is a combination of hm65r and wh23r. The double diode is associated with the Energizer Hardcase headlamp 325lm 😁
I love Fenix, and I own both version of the HM65R. I think the HM65R-T is the best headlamp ever made. This is a neat headlamp, but I see three significant drawbacks:
- The floodlight and spotlight can't be used simultaneously (unlike the HM65R)
- There's no foolproof lockout (granted, the switch seems unlikely to turn on on it's own, but it seems possible)
- The maximum brightness is significantly LOWER when the battery pack is connected than when it isn't
This last point is especially annoying. The whole point of buying this headlamp is the especially high output with a long runtime. But because of this design, you have to choose one or the other.. I get that there are technical reasons for this, but this just strikes me as annoying, and a problem that could be solved.
Anyway I've never managed to run out of battery with my HM65, despite doing all-night hikes, climbing at night, etc.. so I doubt I'll be getting this one. I do like the combination of rotary and press switch though.
The best one ever produced was the hm65r SUPER RAPTOR. The hm65r "ordinary" series has a power drop of approximately 150lm per lamp. Super Raptor doesn't have this problem.
The Hm65r has a lock, so I don't know why they made this roof... It just gets in the way.
As for hm70r and technical data with the battery connected, it's probably a Fenix error. Unfortunately, they are quite often wrong. They provide incorrect charts (sometimes even to their detriment). They also provide incorrect light output in candelas. They change diodes as in the case of E01V2, which comes with SST20 and XPG3 diodes. Super Raptor has two cool diodes, but they say it has neutral and cool. So in this case, maybe it's their mistake too.
You failed to discharge the battery in the Hm65r not because it is so wonderful, but because you use low power, and if you set it higher, the power will drop after about 20 minutes anyway.
Have to get this headlight ❤❤
The only stable power is spot 350lm and flood 150lm (like a headlamp for $15-20)
Personally if I'm using it for backpacking/hunting, I'd just bring a spare or 2 of 18650's in lieu of the heavier supplemental battery. Both work, but if you want a lighter weight option, extra 18650's is gonna be lighter I believe.
I like that the supplemental battery can be used to charge other stuff as well, though (like my phone, which I use a bit for maps/gps and photos). I currently do like you say and bring a spare 18650 cell plus the Nitecore LC10 charger, but that setup is honestly not very convenient, so I think I'd be willing to sacrifice the couple extra ounces for this setup
170$🤯🤯🤯
Less power with included 21700 battery? 🤯
Suppose Fenix believes that prioritizing time is important.
6:50 the runtime doesn’t make sense. On some modes we will get double the runtime by just carrying an extra 18650 3400mAh battery than attaching the 21700 5000mAh extension?
Just received mine. Very impressed so far. I may just buy a few more.
Put two on your head. Then you will have a stable 300lm flood 🤣
Привет друг. Сколько он весит без дополнительного блока с аккумулятором?
So the Floodlight is high CRI. What is the CRI rating? Thanks.
Good question! I did some research, Fenix actually didn't put that in any of their documentation, but doing some tests here, it looks to be around 95 based off the LED! Hope this helps!
4:34 you mention 'high cri' . Can you double check that? The flood is described as neutral white on the fenix website, not high cri. I couldn't find the words 'high cri' anywhere on the hm75r page on the fenix website.
Yeah, honestly I should have elaborated on this further which is my fault, the LEDs the headlamp uses have a CRI rating of 95, which I define as 'high CRI', but the light doesn't really advertise that, so I use high CRI as a descriptor more than the title, but again, I definitely could have been more clear with that, thank you for your comment!
I cannot figure out how to charge mine headlamp. I have two cables, but nothing seems to be doing any power into it.
I would make sure the cables are in all the way, I didn't harp on this as much as I should've in the video but the cables are really hard to wrestle with in terms of getting them in the ports if you still have problems we can probably replace it if you shoot us an email at support@longhorntactical.com !
Can you take the 21700 out of the case?
Yes! It unscrews like the headlamp! 0:07 is a good visual
I also find it strange that there's a drop from 1600lm to 1200lm when using the 21700. 1200lm takes the maximum brightness below the previous model's max brightness. It's all topsy turvy. 🤷♂️ These companies (which i do respect) seem to be hesitant to give the people what they want, which is brighter headlamps with long runtimes. It's 2024; there are ways to achieve that , believe it or not.
Yeah, it's definitely interesting
all this to make you buy hp 30 v2
💕 Promo*SM
I'm most interested in the working time chart. Manufacturers most often play on customers' ignorance, because the customer does not know the power drop. Fenix is currently showing a time and power graph... To make it more fun, sometimes it's to your detriment. And sometimes to the detriment of the client ;). The only sensible hm65r model is the Super Raptor version. All the others are pathetic when it comes to stabilizing power at the level of 130-180lm. For this money it's a joke. The plastic wh23r has perfect stabilization at 180lm but it is much cheaper and made of plastic.